Gear Review: EDS II Screwdriver and EDC Wrench from BIGiDESIGN

BIGiDESIGN is producing so many awesome EDC tools, and in this review we are taking a detailed look at the BIGiDESIGN EDS II, the second, updated version of their unique Everyday Screwdriver, along with the BIGiDESIGN EDC Wrench a reimagining of an antique Swedish adjustable wrench.

Their original EDS, Everyday Screwdriver, was probably the first BIGiDESIGN product that I saw, and since then I bought their bolt action pen, a design that ingeniously adjusts to take most ballpoint refills on the market. Now I’ve been able to partner up the Bolt Action pen with the EDS II and EDC wrench making for an incredible EDC setup.

Video Overview

In this video we take a good look at a couple of lovely EDC gear designs from BIGiDESIGN. The EDS II, the second, updated version of their unique Everyday Screwdriver, along with the EDC Wrench, a small unique pocket friendly adjustable wrench.


What’s in the box; Part 1 the EDS II?:
For the three BIGiDESIGN products I have, the packaging follows the same layout. A slide out tray which has a compartment at one end that contains spares.


A good look round the EDS II – Things to look out for here are:
Overall layout of the EDS II is of an integral lock folding knife, but with a bit holder instead of a blade. A single thumb stud means this easier for a right-handed user. Explained in more detail in the video, there is a stop pin that both stops the bit holder arm in the right position when open, and also stops the spare bits sliding out of the front of the storage slot. The other end of the spare bit storage slot has a sprung ball to keep the bits in place. The integral lock action is easy to see as the bit holder is unfolded. Several magnets are used for keeping the spare bits in place and the main bit holder folded. In the EDS II an additional spare bit holder has been integrated into the lower section of bit holder arm. A total of four bits can be carried within the EDS II.


What’s in the box; Part 2 the EDC Wrench?:
Again, following the format of the other BIGiDESIGN products I have, the box has a slide out tray which includes a compartment at one end that contains spares.


A good look round the EDC Wrench – Things to look out for here are:
A reimagining of an old Swedish design, there is a sliding adjuster moved by a worm screw. BIGiDESIGN have added both a metric and imperial scale for setting the wrench ready to use. A low profile clip is fitted to the back and the EDC Wrench also includes a Ti bead on the lanyard. You can just see the slider retainer under the clip.


What it is like to use?

BIGiDESIGN have done something really special with the EDS, and now this updated EDS II, and given you not only a new experience of using and carrying a screwdriver, but one that is very practical as well.
It is not the smallest EDC bit holder available, nor does it include a ratchet, but instead it gives you a highly usable screwdriver with integrated bit storage for a total of four bits without needing anything else.
Having a swing-out bit holder extension arm, the EDS unfolds to a very practical conventional structure of handle, shank, and bit, so compared to many other small EDC screwdrivers it gives you a more usable tool.

That genius part of the design is mimicking an integral lock folding knife, having a thumb stud to swing the bit holder arm out of the folded position for one-handed operation. So satisfying to use!

However there is a little observation to note about how easy or difficult it is to open the EDS II. The arm’s retention in the folded position is due to a magnet in the body grabbing the bit that is in the bit holder. As you use the EDS II and swap bits around, you will find that a bigger bit, like the full size flat bit, is held by the magnet more firmly, so firmly it becomes very difficult to open using the thumb stud. Put a smaller bit into the holder and it becomes much easier to open again. So the bit you leave in the main bit holder arm changes the ease of opening the EDS II. I would have preferred that the arm retention was a detent (like a knife would use) or that the thumb stud had a bigger cut-out round it allowing more contact and an easier open.


Onto the partner tool here and the EDC Wrench, an infinitely more pocket friendly design than a standard adjustable wrench, there was one big flip for me, literally, in how I envisaged using it before actually getting my hands on one. That is the fact that with the adjustable slider being very much on one side of the tool, to use it and make contact with the nut, you have to flip it over so the ‘front’ of the tool is away from you (pocket clip towards you). Like this you can’t see the scale, and initially it just felt a bit odd, but is just how it works. Even with larger nuts, all except the very largest, you need to use it this way round.

Being a ring spanner, you do have to be able to pass the ring over the end of the job onto the nut, so can’t be used for certain jobs. If you hit those limits though, it is less likely an EDC type of job, so then you bring out the full size tools. Know the limits of your tools and don’t abuse them and you’ll get along just fine.


Talking of limits, and pushing them, the EDS II and EDC Wrench can nicely partner up for a bit more screw driving torque. There is just enough of the 1/4″ hexagonal bit showing to use the EDC Wrench to grip this and boost the turning force for stubborn screws. Not always possible, but if you have the space, this can save you having to go for bigger tools. In this case the EDC Wrench is used with the slider facing you as it needs to be this way round to grip that small section of the hex bit.

Both of these beautiful EDC tools are made from grade 5 titanium alloy and punch well above their weight, even more so together.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

EDS II – Difficult to open with larger bits installed.
EDS II – Thumb stud a bit too recessed.
EDC Wrench – Ring spanner design slightly restrictive.
EDC Wrench – Need to use with the slider away from you.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

EDS II – One-Handed Operation.
EDS II – Integral Frame-Lock Mechanism.
EDS II – Deep carry Pocket Clip.
EDS II – Uses any 1/4″ hex bit.
EDS II – Integral storage for four bits.
EDS II – 100% metal construction.
EDC Wrench – Infinitely adjustable.
EDC Wrench – SAE 3/16 – 3/4 in.
EDC Wrench – Metric 5 – 19 mm.
EDC Wrench – Solid Titanium Construction.
EDC Wrench – Removable Pocket Clip.

 
Discussing the Review:
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Knife Review: MKM Hero

Join me in this review of the MKM Hero as we take in all the details of this superb new folding knife designed by Tommaso Rumici. Working with MKM (Maniago Knife Makers) Tommaso has focused on usability and versatility in a design that specifically delivers the ambidextrous features a real working knife needs.

Video Overview

This video includes a close look round the Hero, and then onto the measurements and specifications.


What’s in the box?:
The Hero arrives in what initially looks like a simple storage pouch, however, on the back are a couple of belt loops, meaning the pouch is actually a horizontal belt pouch as well. Within the pouch is a pocket that has a double-ended T6/T8 torx wrench and leaflet.


A good look round the Hero – Things to look out for here are:
The version of the Hero in this review has the marbled carbon fibre handle. The liners and integrated bolsters are milled from one-piece of titanium with the handle slabs set into them. Cut into the reversible titanium clip is MKM’s distinctive mountainscape logo. The clip is held in place by two torx screws, making it easy to reverse the clip.
Double-sided stepped thumb studs allow ambidextrous blade opening. Choice of the back-lock is another intentional ambidextrous design feature. Jimping for extra thumb grip spans the blade and lock bar.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from M390 steel.


What is it like to use?
I had the good fortune to be introduced to the Hero by its designer Tommaso Rumici, and get a run down of the features directly from the horse’s mouth. To my amusement, with this demonstration coming near the end of IWA 2022, and hands being well sanitised, and dried to a crisp, I managed to crack my thumb open on the Hero’s thumb stud and bleed all over the blade without actually cutting myself on the edge.
As I have got to know the Hero, there is one aspect I’m not so keen about, and that is that the thumb stud is a little on the pointy side. You do need to be careful to press onto the side of the stud and avoid pushing straight onto it to swing out the blade.
A good back-lock makes for a supremely practical layout in an ambidextrous focused knife. Unlike liner or integral locks, which are handed, the back-lock is predictable, reliable and absolutely identical in operation regardless of the hand holding the knife.
Where a lot of the design intent shows through is in its handling, and we must talk about the Hero’s handle. In terms of width, the Hero is actually pretty slim, so is nicely low profile in a pocket, but the depth and generous swell/hook at the butt of the handle is where the huge flexibility of grip positions and fantastic grip stability comes from.
For really controlled work, you can choke right up on the handle and place a finger on the guard/bolster bringing you to the cutting edge. At the complete opposite extreme grip position, taking a hold when you might want to use a chopping motion, thanks to the grip swell, you can take a secure grip of the very end of the handle with your first two fingers without worry of losing your hold on the Hero even when striking down with it.
Then you can take the middle ground with a standard grip and rest your thumb on the jimping that spans the end of the lock bar and blade for control and cutting force. When using this grip position, you can alter the angle the blade is presented by changing the pressure of your little finger on the butt hook. Doing this makes the knife swivel about your first finger, opening out, or closing in the position of the blade relative to your hand and making the blade extremely agile in use.
Exactly as intended, the Hero is big enough for most EDC tasks, and most general purpose jobs, yet not too big to put you off carrying it.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Overly sharp thumb stud.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Ideal blade size for most EDC tasks.
Multi-grip positions.
Super secure grip.
Back-lock.
Fully ambidextrous.
One-piece liner and bolster.
M390 steel.
Reversible clip.
Pouch includes belt loops.

 
Discussing the Review:
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Knife Review: Spyderco Stovepipe

Spyderco’s Stovepipe is full of drama and built to perform as strongly as it looks. The Stovepipe is based on one of David Rydbom’s famous custom knives, ‘Bill the Butcher’ from Kingdom Armory. A powerful cleaver-style blade made from CPM 20CV, with titanium handles and clip, as well as being packed full of milled details, this all really makes the Stovepipe stand out as something special. Join me in this review of the Spyderco Stovepipe to take in all of its details.

Video Overview

This video takes in all the details of the Spyderco Stovepipe, a folding knife inspired by custom knife maker David Rydbom’s “Bill the Butcher” design; the Stovepipe blends dramatic style with serious performance. In the video I cover the main design details, look very close-up at the knife, and then take Tactical Reviews standard detailed technical measurements.


What’s in the box?:
Or, in this case ‘What’s in the pouch?’ as the Stovepipe does not come in a box but instead in a nice quality padded storage/carry pouch. The knife is in a bubble wrap bag and comes with the knife information leaflet and a round sticker.


A good look round the Spyderco Stovepipe – Things to look out for here are:
Starting with the knife straight out of its wrapping and with protective oil making it look blotchy. Under the pocket clip a round plastic protector ensures when you get it the clip to handle contact point is completely unmarked.
A ring around the milled pivot bolt provides an over-travel stop for the integral frame lock bar. The more you look at the Stovepipe, the more details you find. As you step through this gallery you will see all the small milled in features and incredible attention to detail.


Explained by the Maker:
The reasons for certain design choices may not be clear when simply looking at an object, so this section is intended to give an insight into the thinking behind a design by speaking to the designer themselves.

This is the Spyderco description of the Stovepipe:

Inspired by custom knife maker David Rydbom’s “Bill the Butcher” design, the Stovepipe blends dramatic style with serious performance. Its stout cleaver-shaped blade is crafted from 4mm (.157-inch) thick CPM® 20CV stainless steel and has a deep hollow grind for superior edge geometry. The handle is constructed from two slabs of solid titanium joined by a titanium backspacer. Both scales are painstakingly machined to create beautifully crowned outer surfaces and the reverse-side scale forms the foundation of the knife’s Reeve Integral Lock (R.I.L.) mechanism. The oversized pivot pin is machined with artistic accents and serves double duty as an overtravel stop for the lock bar. To allow convenient carry, the Stovepipe includes a machined titanium clip configured for right-side, tip-up carry. The clip, scales, backspacer, and blade all feature a no-nonsense, industrial-style stonewashed finish.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.


What is it like to use?
I find the Stovepipe a slight contradiction in that it is certainly built to work hard; materials, construction and strength are beyond question, but all the beautifully made details give the knife a lot of corners that are not hard-use friendly on your hands. The relatively compact size, despite the cleaver blade, and milled details creating lots of hot-spots mean that though capable of it, the Stovepipe isn’t a knife I would choose for heavy or extended jobs.

It looks fantastic and is both striking looking and by no means ‘usual’. Absolutely overflowing with interesting features, and a knife you will love looking at every time you bring it out to use.

The in-the-hand photos here show the Stovepipe in my XL-glove size hand. For me the Stovepipe has just enough handle for a solid grip and the blade length works for power cuts. The straight edge and blade tip present the cutting edge nicely for the type of EDC cutting I typically do.

One of the joys of the knife world is that there are so many designs, and so many purposes for a knife. The Stovepipe is an expensive knife, but one that justifies its price through quality of manufacture, intricate, intriguing and complex milling. Striking looks, with its origins in a proven custom design, the Spyderco Stovepipe is an outstanding cleaver-style knife.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Too many ‘corners’ for comfortable extended use.
High price point.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Superb quality and finish.
Packed with machined details.
CPM 20CV blade steel.
Super strong construction.
Very high quality storage case included.
Custom design in a production knife.
Striking stand-out looks.

 
Discussing the Review:
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Knife Review: ANV Knives M200 Hard Task

Join me in this review of the ANV Knives (ACTA NON VERBA – Actions not words) M200 Hard Task, a knife that really stood out for me at IWA 2022. I’ve been fortunate to have the opportunity to really test it properly and be able to take in all the details of this distinctive knife, with subtle re-curve blade and curved grip that makes it handle so well.

Video Overview

Before moving onto the image galleries and insights into how it is to use, first, in this video we cover the main design details of the M200 Hard Task, look very close up and the knife, and then take Tactical Reviews standard detailed technical measurements.


What’s in the box?:
Cleanly presented, the M200 arrives simply sheathed and wrapped in a foam rubber sheet within the cardboard box.


A good look round the M200’s sheath – Things to look out for here are:
For the Hard Task’s sheath, ANV have gone for hard use Kydex. The two halves of the sheath are hollow riveted together, so you can choose any bolt-on mounting system. As delivered, the sheath has two 2M Molle straps fitted which can be woven into PALS webbing. However, a point to mention is that the 2M straps don’t have a cross-web themselves, so they are wrapped around two rows of the PALS webbing, and not actually woven in.
The molding is very precise, and where the handle grip sits within the mouth of the sheath, you can see the handle milled grip texture impressed in the Kydex which makes the retention very secure.


A good look round the M200 Hard Task – Things to look out for here are:

There is a subtle recurve on the M200’s flat ground blade. A nice feature ANV have included is a slightly enlarged sharpening choil, that is in fact a firesteel scraper. Grip on the M200 is excellent, with a shaped first finger groove, the milled texture G10 handle grips, and curved handle. A generous section of jimping on the spine for the thumb adds further grip. Also shown is the beautifully shaped palm swell adding yet more grip stability.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from Sleipner steel.


What is it like to use?

Handling of the M200 is excellent, with the fully 3D shaped handle grips with palm swells and texture, plus the curved handle that sits in the hand so well. The ergonomics are a stand out aspect of the M200.
Sheathing and unsheathing is spot on, with the Kydex gripping the M200 securely, but the sheath shoulders giving a comfortable thumb rest to apply pressure to release the knife.
With the 2M MOLLE straps that are provided, these have a loop which is really too wide to belt mount, so unfortunately if you want to do anything other than MOLLE mount the M200, you will need to source and fit different mounts.
Pictured in this gallery is my normal fire steel. Not messing around with smaller versions, I have 13mm firesteels, which do not fit into the firesteel notch of the M200, so I had to dig out a smaller version to test it. I also found the curve on curve contact area seemed less eager to spark than a straight scraper. It worked, but if anything I’m tempted to cut in a straight scraper on the spine of the Hard Task myself.
In terms of size, the M200 hits that sweet spot of being big enough to do most jobs and not too big to be carried easily, or be unwieldy in use. The comfort and security of handling makes the M200 a joy to use.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

No belt mount provided.
Firesteel notch a bit small and not as effective as a straight scraper.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Superb ergonomics and comfort.
Very secure grip.
Hard use Kydex sheath.
MOLLE mounting included.
Excellent fit and finish.
Ideal size for general utility use.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

BladeForums – Knife Reviews (US based Forum for Knife Discussion)

CandlePowerForums – Knife Reviews Section (Largest and Friendliest Flashlight Community Forum)

Knife Review: lionSTEEL H1

Join me in this review of the lionSTEEL H1, to take in all the details of this superb EDC fixed blade knife designed by Tommaso Rumici. This specific knife is a display model from IWA 2022 so might show a few imperfections. The H1 has a M390 blade, black G10 handle with grip ring, standard leather sheath plus also shown in this review with the optional Kydex sheath.

Video Overview

This video includes a close look round the H1, and then onto the measurements and specifications.


What’s in the box?:
As well as the standard H1 package, this review shows the optional Kydex sheath which is pictured next to the closed box. As standard, the H1 comes with the leather sheath and a lionSTEEL made keyring torx wrench.


A good look round the standard Leather Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
The H1’s standard leather sheath is packed full of features. Within the curved and flowing shaping of this sheath, it has a retaining strap secured with a press-stud, a ‘standard’ belt loop, along with two special loops that can be rotated and opened out to allow various belt or MOLLE carry configurations.


A good look round the optional Kydex Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
Giving you a more compact carry, the optional Kydex sheath has two special loops, like the leather sheath, that allow for various belt or MOLLE carry configurations, but without the fixed belt loop and retaining strap. The retaining strap is not needed due to the Kydex ‘clip in’ retention, so allowing for a much more streamlined sheath.


The details of the H1:
Starting off with the H1 sheathed in the leather sheath. A curvy knife in a curved and flowing sheath. Demonstrated in the last of the photos of the sheathed knife, if you are using the fixed belt loop, and if you wanted to tie-in the end of the handle tightly so it can’t catch on anything, you can swing the top loop over the end of the grip ring; not something you would do all the time, but an option.
The remaining photos take in details like the engravings, plunge line, jimping, grip ring finish, handle shaping/milling/texture, plus the overall lines of this knife.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.


What is it like to use?
Designed to combine the secure handling of the karambit’s grip ring with a knife blade much better suited to daily EDC tasks, this make the H1 an unusual shape that you might not immediately be drawn to.
Although I started with the two galleries in this section the other way round, I decided to look at the personal carry aspect first. Shown earlier in the review, the H1 can be MOLLE carried, so this is about carry directly on your person using the belt and additional loops on both the leather and Kydex sheathes.
For me the least successful carry is the standard drop belt loop. With the angles set into the sheath, the presentation is very awkward for me, and with the leather wrapping round the handle, re-sheathing the knife tends to result in cutting into the sheath each and every time. It is quick to deploy, but not to re-sheath.
Moving swiftly to horizontal carry and suddenly everything works much better. For the leather sheath you can mount it on your hip facing backwards. The leather sheath doesn’t really work for back carry, due to the retaining strap (this is where the kydex sheath really shines).
(Just to mention these photos are all for right-handed drawing.)
Last up is the kydex sheath on hip and back carry positions. Actually for the back carry I would have set the loops so that one was each side of the trouser belt loop to provide stability for drawing and re-sheathing. The lower profile kydex sheath is excellent, and shines in the back carry position.


So we’ve looked at carry, and now onto handling of the H1. Yes the H1 has a grip ring, but you don’t have to put a finger through it, you can also hold it like a standard grip and use the width of the ring to control the angle the blade presents. Worth remembering and not always putting a finger through the ring.
As you can see, though I take XL size gloves, the H1 is quite a compact knife. With the curve of the blade and the jimping on the spine, the H1 sits so well in the hand making it feel a simple extension of you.
Reverse grips are as natural as forward grip, and the ring is a size and finish that makes it super comfortable however you take hold of it.


I’ve always loved lionSTEEL’s leather sheaths, and the H1’s is a very good sheath. For me though, the optional Kydex sheath takes the H1 into a different league. I would recommend getting it. (If lionSTEEL could offer a sheath choice when buying so you could get the H1 without the leather sheath and just the Kydex one, all the better.) The slim H1 definitely benefits from the much slimmer Kydex sheath. This sheath also allows for ‘in pocket’ carry which the bulkier leather sheath does not.
Handling is where the H1 really excels with the versatile grip ring and curving handle and blade shape that fits into the hand beautifully. Between the H1 and H2 (the H2 which has a drop point blade), the sheep’s foot style blade shape presets the tip of the knife very well for point work, and the curved cutting edge slices easily.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Relatively bulky leather sheath.
Awkward angle of standard belt loop.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Highly ergonomic.
Grip ring provides security.
Optional Kydex sheath (recommended).
M390 blade steel.
Slim and easy to carry.
Horizontal belt mounting.
MOLLE compatible.
Adaptable sheath mounting loops.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

BladeForums – Knife Reviews (US based Forum for Knife Discussion)

CandlePowerForums – Knife Reviews Section (Largest and Friendliest Flashlight Community Forum)

Gear Review: Mjolnir III by Ostap Hel Knives

When it comes to EDC pocket jewellery, nothing beats a hand-made custom piece, and I’ve had my eye on the Mjolnir from Ostap Hel Knives for some time. Yes, Mjolnir is Thor’s hammer, and being capable of a knockout blow is very appropriate association, but of course the shape of Ostap’s Mjolnir is also like the old Norse symbols.
Join me in this review of the Mjolnir III from Ostap Hel Knives, the featured version is in carbon fibre.

Video Overview

This video is a detailed look at the Mjolnir III, and hopefully you can get a good feel for the quality of finish.


What it is like to use?
Without saying exactly how you might use the Mjolnir III (due to some more negative connotations), it is both EDC pocket jewellery and a self-defence aid.

The intended configuration for carrying the Mjolnir III is on its own with a lanyard, added for ease of getting it into your hand when needed. Shown here, it has the matching lanyard from Ostap Hel Knives which has a CF bead on the cord. With the CF version being so light, it has minimal pocket presence so can also feel a little difficult to home in on. So…

…picking up on the fact it has felt a little ‘detached’ from easily finding the CF Mjolnir III in my pocket, I wanted to try something a bit different and out there, and fit it as a lanyard stopper on another EDC item. In this case a slip-joint knife which already had a longish lanyard on it.
In this way, the knife provides the weight for easily finding it, and the Mjolnir III makes a fantastic ‘puller’ for getting the knife to hand, but also for then ease of getting the Mjolnir III into your hand.
Reversing the sense that the Mjolnir III is the lanyard stopper round to the knife being the lanyard stopper, and you can either allow the knife to hang out to the side, or take it into you palm while gripping the Mjolnir III between your fingers.
You can experiment with the lanyard length to see how it might work for you if you try this approach. Here the loose ends of the paracord are not yet woven into the lanyard to more easily allow adjustments before making the final configuration.
It has worked for me, it might work for you; try it before completely dismissing the idea.

Regardless of how you choose to carry it, the Mjolnir III is a pleasure to handle and carry. Despite there being no moving parts, it can be a worry-stone or fidget toy, as well as having an actual serious purpose – definitely worth the investment in a quality piece.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

What is not to like?

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Beautifully crafted.
Choice of materials.
Easy to carry.
Might make all the difference in a tight situation.
Low profile.
Thor’s hammer in your pocket.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
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Gear Review: TCH Handcuffs Twinlock Special – Part 1

This is Part 1 of a TCH (Total Control Handcuffs) Handcuffs Special three part review series featuring the TCH Twinlock cuffs. After growing in size far beyond my originally intended group review, in this first part of the series we will be covering the 932 and 822 Twinlock cuffs, SK5 and SK6 keys, plus the 9201 belt pouch. The TCH Twinlock mechanism makes it much easier to unlock with a keyway on both sides of each cuff.
Parts 2 and 3 will include the 832, 852 and 842 cuffs, NCG Neoprene Cuff Guard, TCH HR Handcuff Reducer and the 9200, 9215 and RCP5 Handcuff Pouches, plus information on cuffing techniques and the TOOOL Universal Handcuff Key.
Join me here for Part 1 of the TCH Handcuffs Special review to start our look over these excellent cuffs and the Twinlock dual keyway design.

Video Review

This video covers all the TCH models that appear in the special three part review series, and will be included in all three parts of the review for ease of access. It might be worth taking a look over the image galleries before diving into the video.


Unpacking the model 932 handcuffs:


A good look round the 932 – Things to look out for here are:
The 932 is the lightweight Superior Hinge Twinlock model. The hinge means it folds, but prevents the cuffs twisting. With twisting prevented, ‘stacked’ cuffing techniques can be used (See part three for more details).
In this gallery you can also see the Twinlock feature with photos of each side of the cuffs in the fully open position. There is a difference in the key hole position and rotation for the primary and secondary keyways.


Twinlock security features:
With this first detailed look at a Twinlock model, in this gallery I’m showing close-ups of the ratchet teeth on the rotating arm, the triple pawl locking mechanism, the double-lock pin mechanism, and a key fitted into the primary and secondary keyways.


Looking round the 9201 leather belt pouch:
A quick aside to look at the 9201 leather belt pouch. Constructed from heavy duty leather, this pouch will take all the knocks you might give it.
Just about taking the 932 cuffs, but there is a version of this pouch with longer strap to better fit the hinged models.


Optional SK5 and SK6 duty keys:
For frequent use, and to improve handling of the standard handcuff key, TCH offer two optional bigger duty keys, the SK5 and SK6 both of which give you more leverage and are easier to use than the basic key.


Model 822 – traditional chain cuffs with Twinlock:
The most traditional cuff to be shown in this series of reviews is a chain cuff model, the 822. In this case it is in the black finish. Traditional this may be, but it also has the TCH Twinlock mechanism, so making it much easier to unlock with a keyway on both sides of each cuff. Also shown fitted in the 9201 belt pouch.


Coming up in Parts 2 and 3:

Next up in Part 2 will be the 852 Folding Rigid Twinlock, 832 Superior Hinge Twinlock, TCH HR Handcuff Reducer plus the 9200 and 9215 Handcuff Pouches.

Part three will include the 842 Rigid Twinlock with RCP5 Handcuff Pouch, NCG Neoprene Cuff Guard along with handcuffing techniques , the TOOOL customised universal handcuff key and ‘alternative’ uses for handcuffs.

Full list of TCH products featured in the three part special series:

832 Superior Hinge Twinlock
932 Lightweight Superior Hinge Twinlock
852 Folding Rigid Twinlock – Red grip
842 Rigid Twinlock
822 Superior Chain Twinlock – Black finish

Accessories –
SK5 Flat Swivel key
SK6 Tubular Swivel key
NCG Neoprene Cuff Guard
TCH HR Handcuff Reducer
TCH 9200 Handcuff Pouch (for 822)
TCH 9201 Handcuff Pouch (for 832/932)
TCH 9215 Handcuff Pouch (for 852)
TCH RCP5 Handcuff Pouch (for 842)

 
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Light Review: Nitecore TM20K – 20,000 Lumens!

Nitecore’s Tiny Monsters have always been punchy performers, from the first one I tested, (the TM11) all the way through to another Monster light that is Tiny compared to its output. Join me in this Nitecore TM20K review, 20K being the 20,000 Lumens, yes, 20,000 Lumens output from a palm sized light. As well as a look round the TM20K, this review includes output measurements, runtime graphs, and beamshots to give you the true story of its performance. It really is a Monster!

Video Overview

This video is an overview of the TM20K with a first look over the light before we get onto more details and the measurements.


What is in the box?:
This gallery shows the TM20K’s packaging and what is included. The holstered TM20K, a USB-C charging cable, a lanyard, and a thin cord for threading the lanyard.
There is also a look over the belt holster and how the top flap opens.


A good look round the TM20K – Things to look out for here are:
First, do not turn the TM20K straight on out of the box! There is a blue protective plastic film over the lens that will melt and make a mess of the front of the light, so make sure to take this off.
The body of the TM20K is a single piece, and this is not broken by any battery doors, as the TM20K has a built-in battery and is USB-C rechargeable.
The lanyard hole is next to the charging port and mode switch. On the opposite side to the mode switch is the selector toggle switch with lockout setting.
One of the flat sides has a wide steel belt clip. Also shown are the small heat sink fins and grip knurling.
On the tail of the TM20K you find the power button, tactical switches and the charging port.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

For the beamshot comparison I used three output modes. The Daily mode ‘Floodlight’ and ‘Spotlight’ special output levels plus the ‘Turbo’ 20,000 Lumen mode.

Indoors are only the ‘Floodlight’ and ‘Spotlight’ modes as Turbo is too bright. Then moving outdoors with the same modes (around the 2,000 Lumen level), and then with the same exposure, the Turbo output. 20,000 lumens really lights things up!!


Batteries and output:

The TM20K runs on a built in battery made of 2 x 21700 4800mAh cells.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

19 XP-L2 LEDs to blast out 20,000 lumens.

When working with any lights with an output over 5,000 lumens, I need to make modifications to the integrating sphere. For the TM20K, due to the extreme output and small size, it is limited to short bursts of the 20,000 lumen Turbo output. So the output table is a little different to most of the reviews I carry out.

Half the table is normal, then where it starts to list an ND filter, this is a ‘neutral density’ filter that simply cuts the light reaching the sensor by approximately 90%. Reference readings are taken to ensure the filter factor is correct, and a set of measurements were taken. With the short 8s burst of Turbo, several readings were taken and averaged. All of this is included in the table.

The graphs in this gallery show a few different things. First is a trace of the charging current consumed when charging the TM20K.
Next up is the runtime trace for High output. Due to the Turbo output being a burst mode only, for the full runtime, the graph shows the output for the high output level.
Now we have two copies of the same graph, the first shows all the traces taken to check the behaviour during the ANSI 30 second measurement time.

Shown first is an initial ‘High’ ANSI output trace (Section 1), then the Turbo button held for 30s (Section 2) where the output drops to High after 8s. Section 3 shows what happens when you intentionally use Burst, Burst, Burst until the TM20K won’t output Turbo any more.

As the ANSI output should be measured at 30s, the 8s Turbo output would mean ‘ANSI Turbo’ measurement was 3611 lm, so this means we can’t actually state an ANSI Turbo output and instead I have gone for ‘max at switch on’ for the value of Turbo, and this is what was used in the output table.


The TM20K in use

20,000 lumens in the palm of your hand, here it is:

And as a starting point I have to say the TM20K is scary bright! As well as that it heats up so quickly on Turbo you really know this is pumping out the power.

Being about the size of a 2x 18650 light used to be, the TM20K is noticeably heavier and more dense than this older class of light, a sign it is packed with performance.

The supplied holster is very nicely made and is a rigid style with flip-top lid style opening. When belt mounted you need to pull the holster body away from you to allow the lid to hinge open far enough to get the TM20K out. This might have worked better flipping open away from you. The magnetic closure is a nice touch and allows for silent opening (without the ‘tearing’ sound of Velcro).

One of the most important features for a light like this is the lockout; yes the ‘not outputting any light’ feature. Absolutely critical as the output is so high, if contained it will be dangerous.

Lockout should always be easier to activate than to deactivate, and Nitecore have made it very easy. Slide the toggle switch to the padlock and once it has been there for 2s the TM20K is locked.

While locked, if you slide the toggle to 1 or 2, the power button flashes five times to let you know it is locked. Unlocking requires two switches to be used at the same time. Holding the mode switch down as you slide the toggle switch from lockout to position 1 or 2 with the beam turning on briefly to let you know unlocking was successful.

All of that to talk about the TM20K not outputting anything, well, you will be very happy about this feature.

In terms of handling and the interface, although the TM20K lists ‘tactical’ modes, the layout of buttons and ease of access to them would not be my choice for use in a pressured situation. General use, and even search and rescue use, but not reaction or time critical scenarios where you might miss buttons or press ones you didn’t mean to.

Onto those 20,000 lumens. You get a burst of 8s at this level. If you immediately reactivate Turbo, you can do this two further times (three times before a cooling off period) where the thermal protection prevents the TM20K from going above High mode even using the Turbo button. So from cold, 24 consecutive seconds of 20,000 lumen output. Measured and confirmed as shown in the output table and graphs, all from a palm sized light. This is seriously impressive.

Going to the other extreme, I would have preferred a mode lower than 350lm. This is the ‘ultra-low’ mode on the TM20K. Even if you are breaking out the Tiny Monster, there is still a practical lower level for every day use and 350lm is too high, so this is a light to bring out when you want a lot of light.

Considering the size, that performance on High giving a hour of solid output, 45 minutes of which is over 3000lm, does make this a workhorse, even if you ignore the Turbo output.

Not forgetting my previous comments about the tactical mode, the momentary output in this mode is great for searching especially when other people are around and you don’t want to blind them.

My preference is always for removable/replaceable batteries, but the other side to this is the guaranteed performance of the cells chosen by Nitecore to power this Tiny Monster, and the simplification of the design as it doesn’t need a battery door. Being a super high performance light, the cell characteristics are critical, so we can take the built-in cells as a positive point.

20,000 lumens is shocking and astounding from a pocket sized light, well done Nitecore.


Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

‘Ultra-low’ mode is still 350 lumens.
Holster lid opening into your body is a bit awkward.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

20,000 Lumen burst output.
Excellent Lockout implementation.
Momentary and latching operation.
Fixed Flood and Spot special modes.
Instant access twin Turbo switches.
Very compact for the output performance.
Quality holster included.
19 XP-L2 LEDs.

Gear Review: HORL 2 Knife Sharpener

HORL 1993 are creating a revolution in sharpening with their innovative line of rolling knife sharpeners. Many of you will likely have seen their system popping up in various social media feeds, especially if you have any interests involving knives. Though primarily aimed at sharpening kitchen knives, having given the system a quick try out at IWA 2022, I was intrigued to test it in more depth and with other types of knives. Join me in this HORL 2 knife sharpener review for a closer look at this new approach to guided sharpening.

What is on test?:

For this review, on test are the HORL 2 sharpener with add-on Premium Sharpening kit plus the storage block. HORL also sent the tea towel and branded plasters.


A good look round the HORL 2 – Things to look out for here are:
In this first part which includes the HORL 2 sharpener plus the optional storage block, I’m breaking it into three sections. First the HORL 2 box and first look over the knife holder / angle guide, then views all round the storage block, and finally the rolling sharpening stone itself.

Inside the box are a couple of printed guides, and the two main components, the rolling sharpener and the magnetic guide block. The precisely finished wooden guide block has two angled ends, 15 degrees and 20 degrees. The ends are marked with their angle and have a rubber surface to cushion and hold the knife.


An optional extra that goes with the sharpener so well you really should get it, is the storage block. Available in either of the two woods used for the sharpeners themselves you can match the sharpener or go with a wood contrast. The block has two cut-outs, one is an angled pocket to sit the rolling sharpener in, and the other is a slot that has a couple of bolt heads which the magnetic guide block grabs on to. The quality of finish is very high.


Lastly in this detailed look at the components is the rolling sharpener itself. A cylinder with a round sharpening stone at each end.
The wooden centre grip section of the rolling sharpener is in the matching wood to the guide block, and rotates freely. At each end are rubber rings to act as wheels, and the sharpening disks. As it comes this includes a diamond disk and a grooved ceramic coated disk.
Also shown here is how the HORL 2 neatly sits on the storage block.


The Premium Sharpening Kit add-on:
Though you can produce a good edge with the standard HOLR 2, the premium sharpening kit is designed to further refine that edge and take it to another level.
The kit includes two extra sharpening disks of 3000 and 6000 grit. These are found inside matching storage tins, wrapped in a cloth square. As well as these two fine stones, you also have a thick leather strop for cleaning and deburring the edge.
The 3000 grit stone is blue and the finest 6000 grit stone is white. Both are marked on the back of the disk with the grit.


Changing the Stone:
Changing stones on the HORL 2 is simple. Grip the rubber wheel firmly and simply unscrew the stone you want to change; then screw in the replacement. My own preference was the diamond and 3000 grit as a pair.


Video overview and sharpening test.

This video takes detailed look at the HORL 2 being used for the first time on a Santoku kitchen knife and an outdoor / hunting knife. It is quite long but also uncovers a few tips and tricks you might be interested in as well as showing a reprofile of the edge angle. It is worth watching for the insights into how the sharpener interacts with parts of the knife and possible precautions you might want to take.


What it is like to use?

If you have watched the whole video you will have seen what I’m going to describe in this section for real. For this review I’m using the HORL 2 along with two optional extras, the storage block, and the premium sharpening kit with its finer grit stones and leather strop.

As the simplest and most basic look at using the HORL 2, these photos show how you set up the knife on the magnetic angle block with the roller sharpener against the knife edge. You can see how the edge-to-stone angle is maintained and allows sharpening by rolling the sharpener backwards and forwards.
Of note is that your kitchen work surface (or table) is used as part of the sharpening system because you need a large surface to working the rolling sharpener along the blade. Typically a sharpening system will contain the dust and metal filings produced to the sharpener, but the HORL 2 drops the filings that don’t stick to the magnetized blade all over the work surface. It is a bit of a messy eater when it comes to sharpening systems.


Beyond the basic operation of the HORL 2 here are a few general observations:

  • Operation is incredibly simple for use with most kitchen knives.
  • If the depth of the blade is more than the diameter of the sharpening disk you have to use ‘riser blocks’ (like a chopping board) to be able to sharpen the edge.
  • It is very easy to bump the sharpening stone into the knife bolster or handle. I use masking tape to protect these areas from damage.
  • You will magnetise the blade by using the magnetic angle guide block.
  • The sharpening dust collects on the magnetised blade and edge during use.
  • Shorter / narrower blades (paring knives or pocket knives) need very careful positioning on the angle block.
  • As your worktop is part of the sharpening system, this will be covered in metal filings

When swapping from a kitchen knife to an outdoor / hunting knife, it became apparent of an issue you need to work round regarding the tip of the knife.
With many hunting knives, the blade edge curves upward to meet the spine of the blade at the tip. This introduces challenges of maintaining the edge angle all through the sweep of the edge on any sharpening system. On the HORL 2 it requires the user to no longer rely on the angle block to provide the correct angle, instead the user has to twist the rolling sharpener to the correct angle at the tip.
Illustrated below is the angle the roller needs to be moved to sharpen this knife all the way to the tip. It is actually 20 degrees, the same angle as is used on the magnetic angle block. With the rubber wheels on the roller gripping the work surface, this does need the user to force the roller to twist round and get the hang of following the angle near the tip.
Another feature of a hunting knife verses a kitchen knife it that typically there is a ‘plunge line’ where the blade profile and ricasso meet. Also shown below are photos of how the corners of the HORL 2 stones hit the plunge line and might not quite reach the very end of the cutting edge. You will also likely mark the ricasso with the stone.
Finally with the grooved ceramic stone of the HORL 2 and the tip of a knife with a curve there is a possibility of the edge catching into the groove. This happened a couple of times in the video when turning the sharpener to work the tip of the blade, and prompted me to abandon the ceramic stone for a blade with curved tip like this. For kitchen knives this was not an issue.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

  • Needs ‘riser blocks’ for blades wider than the sharpening disk.
  • Magnetises the blade and this collects metal filings on the blade and angle block.
  • Covers the kitchen work surface in metal filings.
  • Still requires the user to control the angle of the stone at the blade tip.
  • Easy to hit and mark the handle or other parts of the knife with the rolling stone.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

  • For most typical straight-edge kitchen knives it makes sharpening super simple and easy.
  • Elegant and attractive solution that looks good in any kitchen.
  • Choice of stone types and grits.
  • Easy touch ups.
  • Very quick to set up and use.
  • Choice of 15 DPS or 20 DPS sharpening angles.

 
Discussing the Review:
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Knife Review: Extrema Ratio SATRE – Special Report

The Extrema Ratio Satre is a pocket-sized, light and extremely tough fixed blade knife, designed in collaboration with Daniele Dal Canto, a Master Advanced F.I.S.S.S. instructor. In this special report review of the Extrema Ratio Satre, I am able to carry out a special set of tests to quantify the edge apex stability (resistance to rolling) in a direct comparison of the two steels the Satre is available in, N690 and S600, as I have all three versions of the Satre available to test, the standard Black and Satin (N690) and the S600 version at an super hard 64 HRC. This special report also include two videos, an overview and detailed measurement, plus one showing the steps of the edge stability testing (SET – Structural Edge Testing).

Video Overview

This video is a detailed look at the three SATRE Models, from handling to technical measurements, hopefully something for everyone.


A few more details:

The videos show all three versions, but as the dimensions, shape and function are all identical, the galleries here show the standard Black Satre.

What’s in the box?:

As well as the knife in a bag with desiccant, there is a QC certificate, care instructions and warranty information.


A good look round the Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

The small and neat Kydex sheath arrives with a neck lanyard, nicely laced through the eye rivets that hold the Kydex halves together. These eye rivets allow for other mounts to be fitted such as the ULTICLIP. The sliding adjustment toggle also serves as a safety break-away. There is a drainage hole at the blade tip on one side.


A good look round the Knife – Things to look out for here are:

The Satre knife consists of a single piece of steel with no other material attached to it (ignoring the small cord lanyard). Despite that simple construction, Extrema Ratio have managed to pack it full of character and clearly identify it as one of their designs. The distinctive first finger grip is shaped into the tang along with the small cut out for weight reduction. Plenty of jimping is provided for various grips.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.


Structural Edge Testing:

Added in 2019 are results from the Edge On Up Structural Edge Tester (SET) to measure the resistance of a knife’s edge to rolling.

The key factors for the SET results are:
Series 1 Degradation – how much damage the edge suffers from one edge rolling cycle. The damage is represented by an increase in the BESS ‘C’ score. (Averages also shown for A and B)
Series 2 Degradation – how much damage the edge suffers from one further edge rolling cycle. (Averages also shown for A and B)
Degradation after strop – has the edge been permanently damaged/chipped or can it be recovered with stropping? A negative number means it actually improved from the starting figure, suggesting there may have already been some rolling of the edge before testing. (Averages also shown for A and B)

First a video of the testing process, then the table of results.


The following results do show a clear increased resistance to edge rolling for the S600 steel. In fact after two ‘series’ the edge has rolled only a similar amount to the N690 blades have after one ‘series’. This is a clearly stronger and more stable edge apex.
Often this extra resistance to edge rolling can be coupled with a more brittle edge, yet the S600 recovered better than the N690 after stropping. (If it was brittle the edge can chip when stropping and give a high BESS measurement.)
In this table, are the individual results for all three, plus a combined N690 set of totals at the bottom.
The figures in bold in the first column are averages for the single measurements.


The Factory edge up close – NEW FOR 2022!:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

In these galleries are each of the three versions with a before and after SET testing image. The edge rolling is just visible, but not easy to see.

Black N690


Satin N690


S600


What is it like to use?

It’s just one of those superbly useful knives. An easy size to carry and use, or keep as a backup. The size of the knife is similar to a medium sized folder, but being a fixed blade makes it super tough and a real working blade.
Here I’m showing it in an un-gloved hand (a hand which takes XL size gloves). It is compact, and doesn’t fill my hand, but the finger groove provides a really secure grip with the jimping (especially the thumb jimping) giving confidence.


With it being a compact blade and one without handle scales, the knife is capable of much harder work than you can comfortably manage with the bare blade tang in your hand. This design keeps it very low profile and really does make carrying and storing as a backup so much easier than a knife with wider handle.

Either in the pocket, or hanging around your neck the Satre is slim and unobtrusive. I can make this comment, not just based on one example but on all three – the Kydex action is spot on. The sloped shoulders of the sheath are just right to push on to release the knife, and the blade clicks out without a fight. This action is almost identical across all three and holds the blade securely without struggling to sheath or unsheathe it.

As seen in the SET testing section and video, the S600 steel is noticeably tougher. As with any higher hardness and higher wear resistance steel, you will notice the S600 is much more difficult to sharpen, and will need a suitable sharpener. This always makes for a dilemma for field use for me. As much as I love a longer lasting edge, if I might need to rely on one knife and might need to sharpen it in the field I would want to be able to sharpen it more easily and if required with natural stones rather than specialist sharpening equipment. This is just a consideration, as for many the longevity of the edge it already has may be more important than being able to sharpen in the field.

With a blade this thick (compared to its length) it doesn’t slice as well as a finer pocket knife blade would, but this blade is one you know won’t let you down if you need to work it hard. If you put one aside as an emergency backup blade, you know it is going to serve you well.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Pocket clip not supplied as standard.
Blade is relatively thick which affects slicing ability.
S600 steel much harder to sharpen (the cost of its higher hardness and wear resistance).

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Choice of blade steels.
S600 steel edge is measurably more stable.
Kydex sheath ‘action’ excellent.
Slim and low profile making carry easy.
Pocket or lanyard carry options.
Very secure grip.
Super strong design.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

BladeForums – Knife Reviews (US based Forum for Knife Discussion)

CandlePowerForums – Knife Reviews Section (Largest and Friendliest Flashlight Community Forum)