Light Review: Fenix LR40R V2.0

Fenix are updating and upgrading the already impressive LR40R, bringing us the LR40R V2.0. New, intuitive, combined rotary and push button switching design, uprated maximum output power in both light and power bank functions, and a new built-in battery pack with 3 x 5000mAh cells, taking onboard power to the max. Join me in this review of the Fenix LR40R V2.0 to see how it performs.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


What is in the box?:


A good look round the LR40R V2.0’s holster – Things to look out for here are:
This is a holster style Fenix have used on several lights with larger heads, from the TK35 and many more. There is an adjustable band that fits round the head and can be left snug, or tightened right down. The body of the light slips into a tubular pouch. The holster has a fixed belt loop, Velcro belt loop and a D-loop hanger.


A good look round the LR40R V2.0 – Things to look out for here are:
There is a lot to see here. Quickly focusing in on the combined rotary and click switch with charge indicator before moving onto some details of the finish and shaping of the body. Heat-sink fins are thick and shallow, making them very tough. Then the LED and Bezel details, showing the different flood and spot LEDs, plus the safety sensors that you can activate to protect the LR40R V2.0 from damaging object coming too close to it.
Lastly a few shots of the combined charging and power bank port.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

For the LR40R V2.0 beamshots there are the individual spot, flood and then combined flood plus spot beamshots. In all cases the relative exposures are the same to show how the beams compare separately and combined.


Batteries and output:

The LR40R V2.0 runs on a built-in battery pack (3x5000mAh) designed to maximise performance for over size (not needing a battery caddy).

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Take a close look at the headline figure for Spot/Flood Turbo!!

This gallery is packed with performance information.

First is the USB input charging trace, taking the LR40R V2.0 to full charge.
The next USB power trace is the power bank output from the LR40R V2.0, in this case used to charge a Oneplus 9 Pro phone. This is only part of the capacity of both phone and LR40R V2.0 and is only to represent the power bank output.

Now comes the full maximum output runtime trace, followed by just the first 60s of the same output.

Last are two thermal images, one from the start of runtime where the head of the LR40R V2.0 is hottest, then one which comes near the end of the runtime where in fact the battery pack is hotter than the head as the cells give their last bit of power.


The LR40R V2.0 in use

It is a serious light, for serious use and is both large and heavy, but at the same time, considering its performance, it is very compact. The next gallery below, showns the LR40R V2.0 in my hand (I take XL size gloves), it is perfectly comfortable while being completely hand filling. The weight is were this can become a bit tiring for more extended use. 850g isn’t much carried in a bag or on your belt, but nearly a kilogram filling your hand, and I’ve tended to do a bit of hand swapping when carrying for more than a few minutes.

Just like when deciding if a large camp knife or axe is worth carrying the weight when out in the wild, you will need to positively decide you want to carry the weight of the LR40R V2.0. If you want that 16000lm output, then it is worth the weight.

Multi-function devices tend to make compromises and I do prefer dedicated gear. However, with the LR40R V2.0 the only compromise made with regard to the inclusion of the power bank function is that if you do use this you are taking away your lighting capacity. The power bank output is excellent, the LR40R V2.0 as a power bank is far too heavy for this to ever be a primary function, but as an ‘can also do’ feature is well implemented. I would always prioritise the battery capacity of the LR40R V2.0 for light output, and only if there was really no other choice would I use it as a power bank.

Despite being familiar enough with the controls, I still find myself ‘hunting’ for the output I want. The switch labels are too small to easily distinguish the padlock from the parallel beam lines, spread beam lines or combined straight and spread lines, so whatever setting the ring switch is actually on, you end up turning it one way or the other to find the one you want.

Once you have decided on the rotary switch position you want to use, then swapping to the central click switch (press-and-hold for on and again for off) simplifies the choice enormously, just leaving the brief press (while on) to change output level.

Setting the ring to lockout (padlock) resets the controls, so when you then unlock, you can only initially rotate the selector ring to spot. From locked, this will always go on to the lowest spot mode, a useful reset (however the flood mode and combined flood/spot does remember the level it was last used on).


When you have so much power in such a small package, you do have potential for things to go wrong. The first level of protection is the lockout position on the mode ring. Carrying this light in a bag could be hazardous if it were to switch on, but the LR40R V2.0 has a simple lockout mode.

Add to this another protection feature that is built-in; a feedback sensor, measuring light reflected back at the LR40R V2.0 when the head is too close to a surface. When this protection is activated (it can be disabled), the maximum output is reduced when the feedback sensor is triggered, and automatically increases again once the head of the LR40R V2.0 moves far enough away from the obstruction. This is toggled on and off while in lockout mode; press and hold for 5-10s and two flashes means the protection is enabled, eight flashes means it has been turned off.

16,000 lumens gives you a true wall of light. These output levels totally eclipse the biggest performers of a few years ago. Yes the 16,000 lumens is a burst mode, but the LR40R V2.0 then settles on a solid 9,000 lumens for an extended run – this is the really impressive feat of the LR40R V2.0.

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Barely distinguishable mode label engravings.
Holster’s head securing strap can be a little fiddly.
Built-in battery ultimately restricts product lifetime.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

16,000 lumens burst.
Solid extended run at 9,000 lumens!
Clear 5 segment battery level indicator.
Safety ‘feedback sensor’ output downshifting.
Power bank function (USB-A).
Fast charging via USB-C (QC 2.0 and PD2.0)
Spot mode resets to low after being locked.
Belt holster included.

Light Review: Fenix E35R and E03R V2.0

Fenix are updating and upgrading two excellent EDC lights. The E03R V2.0 and E35R build on their predecessors and raise them to a higher level. Join me in this review of the Fenix E03R v2.0 and E35R to see how they perform and what improvements have been made.

Review Videos

For the E03R V2.0 first a short format sixty second review:


The short format sixty second review of the E35R:


Onto a full video review covering many more details of both:


What is in the box?:

A brief look over the contents of the box for each of these lights. Starting with the E03R v2.0 in its plastic clamshell inner. To remove the E03R V2.0 from the package needs the plastic tie that comes fitted through the lanyard hole. Without this you can’t get a grip on it ton pull it out of the very tight fitting packaging. It comes with a USB-C charging cable, small split keyring and instructions.
The E35R slides out of the outer cardboard box in a plastic tray. This comes with the battery already fitted, a USB-C charging cable, wrist strap and spare o-ring, plus the instructions.


A good look round the E03R V2.0 – Things to look out for here are:
Before anything else, here is a side-by-side of the original E03R and the new V2.0. You can immediately see the increase in size that allows for the uprated output and runtime.

At the front is the twin TIR optic for the main white beam (with central optic for the Red beam). On the side is a rubber port cover for the USB-C charging port. The power switch has an outer illuminated ring. The switch’s centre also has an indicator light for the state of charge. Details of the split-ring keyring are shown.


Taking a more detailed look at the E35R:

The side by side comparison to the original E35 is included in the video earlier in the review. Most noticeable is the addition of the USB-C charging port. Visually, apart from that, the E35R is almost identical to the E35.

In case you think it is faulty out of the box, Fenix has included a label to remind you to remove the in-transit insulator which protects the E35R from discharging in storage. For the E35R, it is the head rather than tail that unscrews to access the battery compartment. The contacts in the head include physical reverse polarity protection. In the tail is a single strong coil spring to keep the 21700 5000mAh cell in place. The threads are near-square in profile. There is a bronze detail ring round the TIR optic to match the colour of the power switch. To indicate the battery level the centre of the power switch lights up either solid, or a flashing. A steel pocket clip is included. One other addition in the update is the E35R now having a magnetic tail.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

This gallery starts with the E03R V2.0 indoors, white and red beams. The red beam exposure is intentionally longer to show the shape of the beam, not the relative brightness to the white. However, for the outdoor beamshots, the exposure for white and red is similar, and is intended to show the red beam range is, of course, very limited.
Then the last two beamshots are the E35R, showing the very strong performance.


Batteries and output:

The E03R V2.0 has a built in li-po 400mAh cell, and the E35R runs on a removable 21700 5000mAh cell.

These images are the charging traces for the E03R V2.0 and E35R.


Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

When carrying out runtime tests, I always use a cooling fan to at least represent some of the cooling provided by your hands, and also the lower temperatures outside. Not using any cooling would be unrealistic.
In this run of the E35R, there were actually three power cuts that stopped the cooling fan running (the logging was running on battery), and this corresponds with drops in the output due to the thermal regulation ramping down the output.
The E03R V2.0 output is very predictable and stable and needs no further comment.
In the gallery, the second image has the times of the power cuts marked so you can see the corresponding drops in the E35R’s output.
Showing just the start of the output trace, the final image in the gallery shows the thermal regulation controlling the output.


The E03R V2.0 and E35R in use

Since Fenix first previewed the E03R V2.0, the debate has been based largely around if they have made it too big for a key chain light. Ultimately only you can make that decision, but I’ve found it a very good size. Being slightly larger it is more readily to hand (easier to get a grip on), and the added functions raise its usefulness even more.

I particularly like the ‘breathe’ modes of the E03R V2.0. A soft locator light which give a confidence that when in an unfamiliar place you can activate the breathe mode and then always be able to find where the E03R V2.0 is.

For a light that is going to be knocking around, and in and out of pockets, the timing of the power switch activation seems spot on. I’ve not had any accidental activations, and not really bothered with the lockout. It is good to have the option, but so far no warm pockets.

Between these two lights, the interface is effectively the same, so it is very natural to pair them. Of course the E35R is a single white light LED that goes up to an amazing 3000lm output.

At that maximum output the E35R does get hot quickly, and as shown in the runtime graphs, cannot be maintained – but take a moment and look at those graphs again. The E35R, with good cooling, is running at over 1500lm for an hour. This is a solid performance for a EDC pocket light.

I would prefer one lower mode on the E35R, but for most people, the available modes are going to work well.

With the power button being relatively low profile, it can be a bit hit and miss to find, especially with gloves. To get around this, what I do is to line up the pocket clip so it is opposite the power switch. You then use the pocket clip to index your grip and find the power switch without looking.

The original E35 was a good powerful compact light. It was just slightly smaller and a little lighter, and just enough light wrapped around a 21700 cell. Fenix have now managed to also squeeze in the on-board charging and magnetic base which are worthy updates and make the E35R a complete package.

So far, on testing the magnetic base of the E35R, I’ve found issues with slippage if put onto a smooth vertical surface. The magnet holds the light, but the finish on the tail is so smooth, if the surface is also smooth the E35R usually slips and slides down. If the magnet is holding a horizontal surface it is very secure. It is less about the magnet’s strength and more about there being enough grip between the E35R and the surface to not slide downwards.

‘New and improved’ is often a false claim, but for this pair of EDC lights from Fenix, it really is.


Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

E35R – Could do with a lower mode for household use.
E35R – Tends to slide down smooth vertical magnetic surfaces.
Nothing else for either.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

E35R – 3000lm maximum output.
E35R – built around the 21700 cell.
E35R – simple and effective user interface.
E35R – magnetic tail.
E35R – built-in USB-C charging.
E03R V2.0 – ‘breath’ locator beacon mode.
E03R V2.0 – white and red output (and green in breath).
E03R V2.0 – built-in USB-C charging.
E03R V2.0 – great combination of size, weight, power and runtime.

Light Review: Nitecore TM20K – 20,000 Lumens!

Nitecore’s Tiny Monsters have always been punchy performers, from the first one I tested, (the TM11) all the way through to another Monster light that is Tiny compared to its output. Join me in this Nitecore TM20K review, 20K being the 20,000 Lumens, yes, 20,000 Lumens output from a palm sized light. As well as a look round the TM20K, this review includes output measurements, runtime graphs, and beamshots to give you the true story of its performance. It really is a Monster!

Video Overview

This video is an overview of the TM20K with a first look over the light before we get onto more details and the measurements.


What is in the box?:
This gallery shows the TM20K’s packaging and what is included. The holstered TM20K, a USB-C charging cable, a lanyard, and a thin cord for threading the lanyard.
There is also a look over the belt holster and how the top flap opens.


A good look round the TM20K – Things to look out for here are:
First, do not turn the TM20K straight on out of the box! There is a blue protective plastic film over the lens that will melt and make a mess of the front of the light, so make sure to take this off.
The body of the TM20K is a single piece, and this is not broken by any battery doors, as the TM20K has a built-in battery and is USB-C rechargeable.
The lanyard hole is next to the charging port and mode switch. On the opposite side to the mode switch is the selector toggle switch with lockout setting.
One of the flat sides has a wide steel belt clip. Also shown are the small heat sink fins and grip knurling.
On the tail of the TM20K you find the power button, tactical switches and the charging port.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

For the beamshot comparison I used three output modes. The Daily mode ‘Floodlight’ and ‘Spotlight’ special output levels plus the ‘Turbo’ 20,000 Lumen mode.

Indoors are only the ‘Floodlight’ and ‘Spotlight’ modes as Turbo is too bright. Then moving outdoors with the same modes (around the 2,000 Lumen level), and then with the same exposure, the Turbo output. 20,000 lumens really lights things up!!


Batteries and output:

The TM20K runs on a built in battery made of 2 x 21700 4800mAh cells.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

19 XP-L2 LEDs to blast out 20,000 lumens.

When working with any lights with an output over 5,000 lumens, I need to make modifications to the integrating sphere. For the TM20K, due to the extreme output and small size, it is limited to short bursts of the 20,000 lumen Turbo output. So the output table is a little different to most of the reviews I carry out.

Half the table is normal, then where it starts to list an ND filter, this is a ‘neutral density’ filter that simply cuts the light reaching the sensor by approximately 90%. Reference readings are taken to ensure the filter factor is correct, and a set of measurements were taken. With the short 8s burst of Turbo, several readings were taken and averaged. All of this is included in the table.

The graphs in this gallery show a few different things. First is a trace of the charging current consumed when charging the TM20K.
Next up is the runtime trace for High output. Due to the Turbo output being a burst mode only, for the full runtime, the graph shows the output for the high output level.
Now we have two copies of the same graph, the first shows all the traces taken to check the behaviour during the ANSI 30 second measurement time.

Shown first is an initial ‘High’ ANSI output trace (Section 1), then the Turbo button held for 30s (Section 2) where the output drops to High after 8s. Section 3 shows what happens when you intentionally use Burst, Burst, Burst until the TM20K won’t output Turbo any more.

As the ANSI output should be measured at 30s, the 8s Turbo output would mean ‘ANSI Turbo’ measurement was 3611 lm, so this means we can’t actually state an ANSI Turbo output and instead I have gone for ‘max at switch on’ for the value of Turbo, and this is what was used in the output table.


The TM20K in use

20,000 lumens in the palm of your hand, here it is:

And as a starting point I have to say the TM20K is scary bright! As well as that it heats up so quickly on Turbo you really know this is pumping out the power.

Being about the size of a 2x 18650 light used to be, the TM20K is noticeably heavier and more dense than this older class of light, a sign it is packed with performance.

The supplied holster is very nicely made and is a rigid style with flip-top lid style opening. When belt mounted you need to pull the holster body away from you to allow the lid to hinge open far enough to get the TM20K out. This might have worked better flipping open away from you. The magnetic closure is a nice touch and allows for silent opening (without the ‘tearing’ sound of Velcro).

One of the most important features for a light like this is the lockout; yes the ‘not outputting any light’ feature. Absolutely critical as the output is so high, if contained it will be dangerous.

Lockout should always be easier to activate than to deactivate, and Nitecore have made it very easy. Slide the toggle switch to the padlock and once it has been there for 2s the TM20K is locked.

While locked, if you slide the toggle to 1 or 2, the power button flashes five times to let you know it is locked. Unlocking requires two switches to be used at the same time. Holding the mode switch down as you slide the toggle switch from lockout to position 1 or 2 with the beam turning on briefly to let you know unlocking was successful.

All of that to talk about the TM20K not outputting anything, well, you will be very happy about this feature.

In terms of handling and the interface, although the TM20K lists ‘tactical’ modes, the layout of buttons and ease of access to them would not be my choice for use in a pressured situation. General use, and even search and rescue use, but not reaction or time critical scenarios where you might miss buttons or press ones you didn’t mean to.

Onto those 20,000 lumens. You get a burst of 8s at this level. If you immediately reactivate Turbo, you can do this two further times (three times before a cooling off period) where the thermal protection prevents the TM20K from going above High mode even using the Turbo button. So from cold, 24 consecutive seconds of 20,000 lumen output. Measured and confirmed as shown in the output table and graphs, all from a palm sized light. This is seriously impressive.

Going to the other extreme, I would have preferred a mode lower than 350lm. This is the ‘ultra-low’ mode on the TM20K. Even if you are breaking out the Tiny Monster, there is still a practical lower level for every day use and 350lm is too high, so this is a light to bring out when you want a lot of light.

Considering the size, that performance on High giving a hour of solid output, 45 minutes of which is over 3000lm, does make this a workhorse, even if you ignore the Turbo output.

Not forgetting my previous comments about the tactical mode, the momentary output in this mode is great for searching especially when other people are around and you don’t want to blind them.

My preference is always for removable/replaceable batteries, but the other side to this is the guaranteed performance of the cells chosen by Nitecore to power this Tiny Monster, and the simplification of the design as it doesn’t need a battery door. Being a super high performance light, the cell characteristics are critical, so we can take the built-in cells as a positive point.

20,000 lumens is shocking and astounding from a pocket sized light, well done Nitecore.


Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

‘Ultra-low’ mode is still 350 lumens.
Holster lid opening into your body is a bit awkward.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

20,000 Lumen burst output.
Excellent Lockout implementation.
Momentary and latching operation.
Fixed Flood and Spot special modes.
Instant access twin Turbo switches.
Very compact for the output performance.
Quality holster included.
19 XP-L2 LEDs.

Light Review: Cyansky H3 and H5 (built-in Red/Green Filter)

Cyansky have come up with a novel way to solve the problem of having multiple colours of light in a single device without many of the compromises multi-LED or LED swapping lights might have. Most people will have come across, or used, colour filters to change the output of a white beam, but these are easily forgotten or lost. In the Cyansky H3 and H5 hunting models, glass filters are completely contained within the head of the light and the patented mechanism lets you drop a red or green filter in front of the XHP35 HI LED with a simple twist of the control ring – nothing else needed. The H3 and H5 use the increasingly popular 21700 cell to provide more power and runtime, but can run on an 18650 or 2 CR123s for added versatility.
Join me in the detailed examination of these two hunting lights and see how they perform.

Video Overview

Starting with a look over these light in a short video.

This is what arrived from Cyansky –

A good look round the H3 – Things to look out for here are:
As you may have already seen in the video, first up are the contents of the box. The H3 has a belt hanger (rather than full holster) providing a head-up belt carry option. Moving round the H3 and we get onto the mode switch and filter control ring at the base of the head. The tail-switch is semi-recessed, so allowing for tail standing, but with cutouts to ease access to the switch. The stainless bezel ring is wide and well finished. And then a first look at one of the filters.
The H3 comes with a 21700 with built-in USB-C charging. As it arrives there is a plastic insulator to prevent accidental discharge in the light.


A good look round the H5 – Things to look out for here are:
With the H5, the details are the same as for the H3, so I won’t repeat them, the difference is in the much larger head and reflector to give extra beam range.
One small observation which doesn’t affect function at all is that the mode switch has room to move about and twist, so might look a little ‘off’. This doesn’t affect function at all, and is only mentioned in case you see the button looking slightly twisted (this is the same for both models).


The Remote Switch and scope mount:
The supplied remote switch replaces the tail-cap of either the H3 or H5. The remote switches are in a rail-mount unit, and you have a momentary only switch, plus a forward clicky latching switch much like the original tail switch.
The scope mount is basic and easy to use, but I would not use it for heavy duty setups. For smaller calibers and for quick tool-less mounting it works well, and has enough stand off for the H3 or H5.


The Cyansky special feature – built-in colour filters:
Now for a set of images to just show the built-in filter change. I’ve used the H3 here as with the smaller head it is easier to see the filter better than with the H5. First no filter – with the filter holder just having a little bit of extra reflector round the base of the LED. Then part of the way to dropping a filter in place (this is NOT how you use it, just showing the filter holder disk rotating). Finally with the red and green glass filters shown in place over the LED.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Stepping through these beamshots we have the H3 white beam, then H5 white beam, and as you go through the gallery it is H3 then H5 to show a direct comparison on each colour indoors and out.


Batteries and output:

The two models runs on 21700 cells. Logging the built-in USB-C charging gives these traces for the cell provided with each light.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

The Output table also includes the manufacturer specified lumens for comparison.

For the runtime trace, only the highest and lowest output colours were used (white and red) and all traces were run on maximum power.


The H3 and H5 in use

The first aspect to mention is how the H3 and H5 themselves compare. Actually this photo doesn’t show it accurately, but from the control ring to tail-cap, the H3 and H5 are identical. Not a surprise as they run on the same cell, have the some output specifications (apart from beam range), and have the same controls. So when holding them, they are the same for grip and controls.

With the larger head, and larger reflector, the H5 does have the edge in overall output, and it focuses the beam more for a longer reach. This gallery shows some longer distant photos on a golf course driving range. The H3 and H5 beams compared directly. The focus of the H5 is clearly visible at these longer ranges.


Using a zoom rifle scope this gallery has a set of images at the same exposure to show the gain in distance the H5 has over the H3. The magnification is set to 8x in this first gallery.
Important to note is that the distance markers the scope is aimed at are 250 yards, and that the H3 is still usable on white output, but struggles a bit at this range on the coloured output.
Also bear in mind that I am using a .22lr on this course, so 250 yards it beyond the limit I would take a shot.


Now taking the scope to 16x magnification. Although all the images here are the same exposure, I have had to use a longer exposure than for the 8x magnification. At this range and magnification the H3 was pushed too far. the H5 was still working well.
This was to test the limits for range and scope magnification. (At 32x magnification I could not get any photos to come out.)


All of the above proves the H3 and H5 work well on or off a rifle, and the coloured output filters, being built-in, are so convenient, allowing for changes of output colour with nothing but a turn of the control ring.
Although I normally use dedicated coloured lights (so the LED is red or green) due to being most efficient and having the best quality of beam, it means I need to carry entire replacement lights to change colour. There are also LED swapping lights on the market but these compromise the thermal path as the heat sink has to move. With the H3 and H5, the single LED has an optimal thermal path for heat sinking.
Using filters on any light does reduce efficiency as you are ‘wasting’ up to 93% of the actual output (in the case of the red 1306lm down to 94lm). This is the cost of the convenience of instant access to red green or white light.

As long as you have a suitable rail to mount the remote switch on, this switch works really well. By including both a dedicated momentary switch, and a latching forward-clicky switch that gives you momentary and permanent on options, you have all you might want. If you don’t have a rail in the right place, this switch won’t really work for you, so consider this before choosing.

If you normally use a dedicated coloured light, then do you switch to the H3 and H5? – if you ever have a need to change between red, white, and green, then the all-in-one solution these Cyansky lights give you allows you to stop carrying additional separate lights.
If you use, or would consider using colour filters, then the H3 and H5 are no-brainers. Why would you want external filters you can lose, that are often a plastic filter material, when you can have self-contained selectable glass filters?

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Using filters is not efficient compared to dedicated coloured lights.
The mode button can look a little twisted as it has a little too much room to move.
Basic belt hanger provided.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Glass filters are used.
Simple turn of the control ring to change filter colour.
21700 power (plus can use 18650 or CR123 if needed).
Supplied 21700 is USB-C chargeable.
Good choice of beam pattern between the H3 and longer reaching H5.

You can find the Official Cyansky Store Here, if you would like to get hold of these lights. (I have no affiliation and get no reward for you buying from this link).

Light Review: Fenix E03R, E28R and E35 V3.0

A set of three EDC type of lights from Fenix (see MyFenix in the UK). This is a review of the Fenix E03R, E28R and E35 v3.0 covering a range of power and capacity options. Of these, the E03R has been available for the longest, with the E28R being a recent release and the E35 updated to V3.0 and using the 21700 cell with huge 5000mAh capacity.

What is in the box?:


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

The beamshots are divided into two sets with the indoor and outdoor beams for a more direct comparison. In the indoor set the E03R is first shown with the red beam and then onto the E03R white followed by E28R and E35 V3.0. The same order (minus the red) is used for the outdoor beams.



Batteries and output:

This gallery shows the measured charging current for the E03R, the E28R built-in charging, and the USB-chargeable cell supplied with the E35.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Parasitic drain of the E03R cannot be measured.

This gallery has two runtime graphs. the first shows all three lights together for the entire ANSI run, the second is just to show the first few minutes of the run.
The E35 is showing clear thermal regulation as it hovers around the 1800lm mark.


Troubleshooting

This section is included to mention any minor niggles I come across during testing, in case the information helps anyone else.

The E28R displays a slight flicker in the main beam once the cell has reached a low enough level that the red switch warning flash is shown. At this point the output is very low and the cell needs to be recharged. The output is still usable but the flicker noticeable. As long as the low battery warning is not displayed this does not happen.

As per the description of this section, this information is provided in case anyone else finds a similar ‘issue’ that might be fixed in the same way.

The E03R, E28R and E35 V3.0 in use

Firstly a look at the relative sizes of these three options. On its own, the E03R is almost too small and easy to drop, but is intended to be attached to something (keys, zipper etc) and once it is, it suddenly comes to life in ease of use. For the other two, Fenix has nicely created the E28R and E35 to be only slightly bigger than the cells they use to power them, so your choice is almost more about the size and capacity of cell you want to have.


The interfaces of all the lights is basically the same apart from the E03R having red light instead of strobe. Press and hold to turn on, tap to change mode and press and hold to turn off. The last used output is memorised apart from the E03R which always starts on low.
A little trick to get the E28R and E35 to start on low is to use the lockout feature (double tap when off, and then double tap again to unlock) as the lowest output is selected when coming out of lockout.
Personally I would prefer an option to allow a single click to turn on as the press and hold is less immediate when using it.
The switch is relatively low profile on all three models, and just by feel, can be tricky to find. The E03R can just be held in a pinch grip and even if the button is underneath it will operate. For the E20R and E35, I found the pocket clip essential for ‘indexing’ my grip and finding the power switch. The clip is free to rotate around the tube, so the alignment can be off if you are not careful. I do like a side switch for daily use.
Beam tint is nicely neutral to warm, with the TIR optics giving a easy to use beam.
When you have the convenience of the built-in USB charging port, the drag of having to unscrew the light to charge the battery (E35) becomes more apparent. Perhaps the E35 v4.0 will have the USB-C charging built into the head like the E28R? Of course this is balanced by the cell having a healthy 5000mAh capacity, so unless you are always blasting the highest output level you should have a good time between charges.
A little note on the E03R red beam. Typically you want to keep light levels low when using red, so it is a pity there is no direct to red option. However, this is easily worked-around by simply holding the front of the E03R against your hand/leg/whatever while holding the power button, and do this long enough to reach the red output before using it. As the majority of use is most likely white anyway, it is no real hardship to do this when red output is needed.

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Power button difficult to find by feel.
Press to hold delay in switching on and off.
Lowest mode not low enough.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Excellent general purpose smooth EDC beams.
Super tough TIR optics.
Very powerful.
USB-C charging – no separate charger needed.
E03R has choice of red or white beams.
Low parasitic drain.
EDC friendly side-switch.
Lightweight, simple and easy to carry.

 
Discussing the Review:
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Light Review: Fenix TK30 White Laser LEP

LEP, what is LEP? Laser Excited Phosphor, the new super thrower with a highly focused beam; and I was certainly excited to try out the Fenix (see MyFenix in the UK) TK30 White LEP light. I first came across the concept of LEP to be used as a long range tactical scope illuminator for snipers, and there is no doubt this is a highly specialised type of light. For long range scope illumination it is outstanding, and for the general lighting enthusiast it is a lightsaber, with near laser beam like projection.

First up is a video which covers the basics of a look round the TK30 and some outdoor video to show the incredible beam. This page has a lot more detail including the measured output figures, runtime graph and photos of the beam.

What is in the box?:


A good look round the TK30 – Things to look out for here are:
The TK30 comes with an excellent belt holster, and a 21700 cell that has a built-in USB-C charging port (in the cell, not the TK30).


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Yes, this really is the beam, not a mistake. There is a small bright spot with all 500lm (422lm measured) in it.


Batteries and output:

The runs on the included 5000mAh 21700 cell.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Peak Beam intensity measured 469000lx @1m giving a beam range of 1370m!!!

In this gallery are measurements of the built-in USB-C charging for the 5000mAh cell, and the runtime graph (with active cooling).


Troubleshooting

This section is included to mention any minor niggles I come across during testing, in case the information helps anyone else.

It was noted that when the low battery warning is shown with the flashing indicator in the side switch, this makes the main beam output flicker. More on this is included in the ‘in use’ section below.

As per the description of this section, this information is provided in case anyone else finds a similar ‘issue’ that might be fixed in the same way.

The TK30 in use
Let’s first just get the minor quibble out of the way with the output that starts to flicker when the low battery warning comes on. It is shown in the marked copy of the runtime graph and only affects the very last part of the run. I personally take this as a point of the output being so near the end and not able to maintain the full output, that I would want to recharge the battery anyway at this point.

In some ways, the visible beam flickering is only further indication the battery is too low, so is not a problem so much as a ‘feature’. Moving on…

So the operation of the TK30 is just fine, a tail-switch, and a side switch for the mode. Easy and straightforward to use.

Although the high beam output is only in the region of 500lm, I would say that the heat generated and felt at the head of the TK30 is more than I would expect for a 500lm light. But this is no ordinary 500lm light. Inside the head is a UV Laser module that is then illuminating a phosphor surface to produce the beam, so overall it is not as efficient as a typical LED emitter and so generates more heat.

Swapping from the included 21700 cell to an 18650 (with adapter), the runtime is much less, and the lower efficiency of LEP to LED becomes even more obvious. A trade off in efficiency in exchange for a beam unlike any other.

Just take a look through this gallery. (I have used the Moon to cheat with a couple of these, it’s not quite that amazing.)


Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Not really a ‘con’, but a warning – this is a specialist light and is not suitable for general use due to the tiny hotspot and no spill.
Shorter runtime compared to an LED light.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Super focused beam with 1370m throw!
LEP – Laser Excited Phosphor.
USB-C rechargeable 21700 cell and cable included.
Very good belt holster.
It’s just superb fun to have a lightsaber / white laser.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

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Light Review: The 10,000 lumen Fenix LR35R

Can it be true? 10,000 lumens from a light you could fit in your pocket? In this review of the Fenix LR35R I put Fenix’s claimed output figures to the test. As well as this companion review there is a full length video review, with behind the scenes insights into the testing. It turns out that this light went beyond the limits of my test equipment and meant making modifications to allow an accurate reading to be taken.


Here is the video review:

INDEX:
00:00-01:20 Intro
01:20-07:31 Looking over the LR35R
07:31-13:28 Measuring parasitic drain
13:28-19:56 Troubleshooting – comparing cells
19:56-20:43 Troubleshooting – benchmark measurements for sensor modification
20:43-24:28 Modifying the integrating sphere
24:28-26:02 Results – USB charging
26:02-26:57 Results – Thermal imaging
26:57-30:40 Results – Runtime Graphs
30:40-32:11 Results – Beam shots
32:11-33:35 Summary


What is in the box?:
As this is a pre-production sample, there is no un-boxing as only the light was supplied.

A good look round the LR35R – Things to look out for here are:
Be sure to check the video for many of these details.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!


Batteries and output:

The LR35R runs on two 21700 cells which can be recharged in the light.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Before getting onto the output graphs, let’s quickly look at the USB charging graphs. Fenix have use a pulse charging approach which the three images show clearly. Peak charging current is 3A.


And the three runtime graphs which show the effect of the thermal regulation, and how this is countered with stronger cooling.


A thermal image taken during the runtime testing.

The LR35R in use

A real surprise that this output can be achieved in a light smaller than one of my old favourites, the TK35. It does heat up very quickly, and in normal use, hand held, the thermal regulation kicks in much faster than on the runtime graphs which had strong cooling.
The built in charging is very useful, especially as all the 21700 rated chargers I have would not take the long Fenix 21700 cells. It also means you don’t need anything else, and can swap the cells if needed.
As the LR35R is so small, I really wish Fenix had added a lower sub-lumen mode, as for me that would make it a fantastic all-rounder.
Be aware that the headline 10,000 lumens is only short lived, but if you take it down a notch or two, the performance is very very strong.
Beam tint and beam profile are very useable, and overall this is a powerhouse that is easy to live with.


Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Lack of a sub-lumen mode.
Heats up very quickly.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Hits that 10,000 lumen headline figure.
Very strong performance on High and Medium output.
Surprisingly compact.
USB-C charging built-in.
Comes with two high-capacity 21700 cells.
Great Beam tint and profile.

Light Review: Fenix HM65R Headlamp

With the HM65R, Fenix have fitted in so much, but have kept this headlamp small and light enough that you don’t have to think twice about taking it with you on any adventure (or even just taking out the rubbish).
The 18650 li-ion cell used to be the ‘enthusiast’s choice’, being unfamiliar to many users, even more so when strapped to your forehead – not any longer. The Fenix HM65R comes with a high capacity 3500mAh 18650 cell, and there is a built in USB-C charging port. The ONLY thing you need is a USB charger of some kind to open the door to this powerful and capable light.
Join me in this review of the Fenix HM65R to take a look at all the details and how it performs.

What is in the box?:
For maximum stability the HM65R has a top strap, and the full head strap comes assembled and neatly tucked away in the packaging.


A good look round the HM65R – Things to look out for here are:
I’m splitting this detailed set of photos into two galleries for a more manageable tour of the HM65R. The HM65R is almost ready to go out of the packaging, but first you need to remove a small insulator that keeps the battery from running down or the HM65R from being turned on accidentally. From the appearance of the threads of the battery tube, you can see that this is made of magnesium, a material chosen by Fenix to shave off a few more grams of weight.


Taking in more details:
First up in this gallery are the twin lenses – the larger spot emitter with clear lens, and the smaller flood emitter with honeycomb type diffuser lens.
For a more stable fit to your head, the inside of the front part of the headband strap has a grippy strip. Flipping the HM65R forwards gives access to the USB-C charging port and shows the angle adjustment mechanism.


The beam:

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

For both indoor and outdoor beamshots, the individual spot and flood beams are shown, then (as both can be turned on at the same time) the combined beam. Each of the photos in the set of three is at the same exposure and white balance.


Batteries and output:

The HM65R runs on a supplied 3500mAh 18650 Fenix li-ion cell.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Take note of the very good (low) parasitic drain measurement.

Also shown in this gallery is a charging graph for the built in USB-C charging. Although USB-C is capable of up to 3A, the HM65R seems to top-out at about 1.4A when charging.


The HM65R in use:

Straight off the bat, the HM65R makes itself a success with the stable and comfortable head strap (with top strap), and the choice of spot or flood beams (or both combined). Then, in using the high capacity 18650, you get a great runtime and powerful output (yet without too much weight), and the built in USB-C charging means you actually don’t need anything else – The HM65R is a complete kit.

There is one thing missing for me though, and that is a very low output. Even 9 lm, and even with this being on the flood beam, it is still too bright for dark adapted eyes. Frequently when I’m using headlamps, I will have dark adapted eyes (waking from sleep, or when I don’t want to disturb others); if only Fenix could squeeze in that lower mode, a sub 1 lm mode for both spot and flood output, it would make the HM65R a fantastic all-rounder.

If you want to go full blast, then your wish is the HM65R’s command – perfect visibility.


It is very helpful having the quick charge level gauge, with just a click letting you see if you will want to top up the battery.

Having used many Fenix headlamps over the years, and many competitors headlamps too, the HM65R definitely goes down as a choice for Pro users. I use the term ‘Pro’ to indicate this is a serious tool, capable of hard work, versatile and something worth investing in.

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Lacking a sub-lumen output level.
USB-C charging limited to 1.4A.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Independently switch-able Spot and Flood beams.
Stable and comfortable head mount with top strap.
High capacity 18650 cell included.
Built in USB-C charging.
Very low (negligible) parasitic drain.
Nearly 1400 lm combined beam output.
Light weight.

Light Review: Nextorch T53 Hunting Kit

NEXTORCH have been working on LED swapping lights for some time, lights that maintain full beam quality; the Dual-Light models were the first of these that I used (like the P5G, P5R etc.). This Light Review is for the T53 hunting light set, that not only has a LED swapping triple colour output mechanism, but also a mount and remote switch.
The crucial difference with NEXTORCH’s lights and their LED swapping mechanism being there is no compromise of the reflector or beam. Typically, multiple LED light have the LEDs set into fixed, off-centre, positions in the reflector, compromising the beam. Instead the T53’s chosen LED sits at the reflector’s focal point, and is completely swapped for another LED positioned exactly at the reflector’s focal point… keep reading for all the details.

What is in the box?:

A first look at what the T53 set includes, which is all well presented in the box. Everything you need to use it is included.


A good look round the T53 Set – Things to look out for here are:

The images take you through the major components and the details of each of these. Starting with the clamp-mount to hold the T53 in various positions on the gun of your choice. It uses a cam-lever to lock into place. The mount also has a couple of small rail mount section so you can add extra accessories. A nice remote switch has both latching and momentary buttons on it, plus hook/loop straps for fitting to the gun.
There is a small socket in the tail of the T53 which takes either the charging cable or remote switch. With the appropriate plug in place, it can be rotated to lock it in the socket.


Taking a more detailed look at the LED switching:

This is the magic of the T53 (and other NEXTORCH LED swapping lights). The LED at the focal point of the reflector can be completely swapped for another by rotating the dial on the side of the light’s head.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

In this gallery all exposure settings for the set of indoor or outdoor shots are the same.


Batteries and output:

The T53 runs on a supplied 2600mAh 18650 cell.

To measure actual output, I built an integrating sphere. See here for more detail. The sensor registers visible light only (so Infra-Red and Ultra-Violet will not be measured).

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

There is parasitic drain – this is included in the table of measurements.

Included in the gallery are the USB charging trace, a table of measured results, and the runtime trace for maximum white output (plus zoomed-in graph for the start).


The T53 Set in use

Let’s start with the T53 on its own. NEXTORCH lights always have a nice solid feel, and the T53 is built a little bigger to accommodate the LED swapping mechanism. Just as a single 18650 powered light, it is a little chunky and heavier than if it were only a single LED light. The tail-switch is not what I would term ‘tactical’ as it does not stand proud, making it a struggle to press far enough in to latch on if wearing gloves. This is not an issue at all in normal use, and certainly not a factor when moving to the remote switch.

Charging can be carried out internally using the supplied cable, and when doing so, in this example charged to a healthy 4.18V. Although not quite to 100% capacity, I much prefer this slight lower than 4.20V level as it is better for the life of the cell.

Before moving onto the gun mounting, a quick note on the tail-switch. This functions the same whether the remote switch is connected or not, in fact the two switches overlay their functions.
The tail-switch, if half-pressed, first turns on on high. If double-tapped you get strobe. However if you fully press to click it on, a subsequent half-press changes to low output.
The remote-switch, has a latching switch and a momentary switch. Either switch only gives access to high however many times you tap, you only get high.
Now, for example, if you had the tail-switch strobing, and then use the remote switch it changes to high, and once you turn the remote switch off it goes back to strobe. This is how they overlap each other.

In the next gallery the T53 is mounted onto a Chiappa Little Badger. More often than not, lights like the T53 are described as scope mounted. This is a personal bugbear as I dislike the way the spill light illuminates the gun and this creates a gap in the beam. So I will always, if possible, mount the light to the front of the gun to ensure none of the beam hits the gun. Here I’ve been able to fit the mount to the SAK sound moderator – it fitted, but was getting near the limit.

When fitting the mount, the design makes it very quick and simple to secure. The main adjustment is with the central screw and once snug, locking down the cam latch clamps it nice and tight.

Thanks to the hook/loop straps the remote switch fitted on easily, but larger stocks might prove too large for the straps.

The galley includes actual through-scope views.


For hunting use, I never looked back once I started using coloured lights, the difference is literally like night and day. There is also a massive difference between filters fitted to white lights, and pure colour LEDs, both in quality and brightness. I have no need to change colours on one outing as the gun is chosen for the quarry, and the colour to match the quarry. In theory I then don’t need the ability to change colour in one light. That said, it means the one light is suitable for all setups, and you won’t bring the wrong one.

Target illumination is very good with all colours, and something I found very useful was the ability to set the low output with the tail-switch and ramp it up to high as needed with the remote switch, then back to low again.

This is a very accomplished package from NEXTORCH.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Tail-switch a little too recessed.
Remote switch straps may be too short for some guns.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

LED ‘swapping’ mechanism.
Three colour output, Red, Green and White.
Perfect beam for all colours.
Bright ‘through-scope’ view.
Built in USB charging (needing supplied cable).
Remote switch has momentary and latching switches.
Mount clamp is very secure.
Full kit provided, nothing else required (apart from a gun).

 

Discussing the Review:

The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Light Review: Surefire E2D Defender and Stiletto

With Surefire, your main expectations might be high quality build and performance, so read on to see if these lights keep up with Surefire’s standards. In this review are two quite different models; the latest update of the classic Defender E2D (in this case the two-mode ‘Ultra’) and the EDC-optimised pocket-friendly USB-chargeable multi-mode, programmable Stiletto.

What are we looking at?:

Though this review is all about the two headline lights, as well as primary cells I’ve been able to test the Surefire rechargeable cells for the Defender.


Moving onto the main feature let’s get into the details of these two.


Taking a more detailed look at the Stiletto:

The Stiletto is a new style of light, taking on more of the form of a pocket knife and slipping into your pocket in the same way, and with a clip to hold it in place. To achieve this narrow profile it has a built-in battery and USB charging, allowing the shape to not be compromised by replaceable batteries.


Taking a more detailed look at the Defender E2D Ultra:

The Defender E2D is a classic Surefire model, bit it has moved with the times. Starting life as a incandescent bulb light with lens/reflector, it has grown to use LED and TIR optics. This latest version has raised the output to 1000lm+. It is mainly the head of the light that has changed in appearance compared to the earlier models you might know.


Surefire’s rechargeable CR123 option:

Surefire have been a little behind other manufacturers with regard to taking up rechargeable batteries. In years past, dedicated Surefire owners have had to find their own way, often going to the lengths of getting their battery tubes bored out to take 18650 cells plus a few other methods.
In this case, the cells themselves are not Surefire branded, instead Surefire have chosen K2 Energy’s Lithium Phosphate cells.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

The character of each beam is really very different. Starting with the Defender and it’s mix of smooth hot-spot and spill beam giving a very useful all-round capability. The spill beam is surprisingly wide, so much so you can see the bezel crenellation shaping in the outer edge of the beam.

The Stiletto has a Surefire ‘MaxVision beam’; I’ve come across a few variations of this, but in essence they have all been quite wide and evenly lit to give you ease of vision at close to mid ranges. You will notice in the direct comparison that the Defender’s beam is actually wider than the Stiletto’s. This is even more noticeable in the outdoor beam-shots. The Stiletto however lacks the hot-spot and provides nicely even lighting.


Batteries and output:

To measure actual output, I built an integrating sphere. See here for more detail. The sensor registers visible light only (so Infra-Red and Ultra-Violet will not be measured).

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

This is a table of measured results. PWM frequencies are recorded by an oscilloscope, and in some cases are clear and in others are more like superimposed noise. It only appeared that the Defender’s High beam when using the RCR123 cells showed any PWM. This is possibly due to power supply pulsing with the different voltage of the RCR123 cells which were able to produce a higher maximum output than on CR123.

In the runtime graphs, first check the start of the run and you can see how the RCR123 cells are capable of keeping that peak output from the Defender until the programmed slope-off of the output after 60s. However skip onto the full runtime and you can see the RCR123 cells run out after thirty minutes, but the CR123s go on a lot longer and with much more warning they are getting low. For ‘duty’ use you will still want to use CR123s, but the RCR123s give great guilt-free lumens.

Performance is solid from the Stiletto and output is more than good enough for EDC; 45 minutes of 500lm-plus output is impressive.


The Defender E2D Ultra and Stiletto in use

Though by no means a lesser light, there is perhaps slightly less to say about the Defender E2D, so I shall start with that. For me the ‘Ultra’ version is absolutely the one to have. The output levels are so opposite with a 9lm Low and a 1000lm+ High, these might seem too at odds to work well, but they do. If I could add one thing to the Defender E2D it would be a way to user program the Low to be the first mode, but without this the High-Low mode order ensures it lives up to its name.

Thanks to the beam shape and hot-spot, the 9lm mode does a great job for those daily needs of a bit of light. It hits the right balance of being low enough for complete darkness but not so low it is useless for anything but pitch black.

I have many 1000lm+ lights and many into the 5000lm+ level, yet the Defender seems to manage to appear brighter than similar output lights. I have never been left wanting by the Defender (running on the RCR123) with its solid performance and beam profile.

The slim body allows easy cigar gripping and general operation is what you expect from a tail-switch light.


And the Stiletto, this is a very different concept and is very different to use. It’s flat profile and large pocket clip make it one of the easiest lights I’ve used to pocket carry. Ergonomics are a really strong point with the Stiletto. In general use you will find the main side-switch falls nicely under your thumb. Side-switches are far superior to tail switches for EDC tasks, and make it more comfortable to hold the light for extended periods with a low arm position.

But of course, the Stiletto also has a tactical tail switch so you have the option of the high tactical grip with direct access to High. This leads me to the set of images in the gallery as I personally found the tail switch (which is quite stiff) gave me a few issues with grip and the Stiletto sliding forward. I had to use two methods to keep it stable; one was to hook my little finger just round the front of the aluminium head, and the other was to ensure I had the Stiletto rotated so I was gripping onto its width and not onto the flats. (check the gallery for examples) It has been fatiguing to use the tail-switch for longer periods, but with the streamlined shaping this is unavoidable.


The Stiletto’s main power switch is one of three areas on the rubber side panel; I am mentioning this to describe something else to be aware of. To the left of the main switch is a programming switch, this has not caused any issues in general use. However, the USB charging port cover is something to be aware of as I have often found myself trying to turn it on by pressing this part as it is quite ‘button-like’. It is very easy to do this, especially if wearing gloves, so just needs a little awareness and grip adjustment to correct.

‘Programming switch’ – yes the Stiletto can be programmed, with each switch independently programmed into one of two modes. I definitely prefer the default mode and I’d only change if I were mainly going to use the Stiletto in High. Programming is very easy – you hold the programming switch down until the indicator shows blue and then press either the main-switch or tail-switch to toggle it between modes. This programming switch also activates the emergency strobe.

Having three levels and the ability to swap the order from L-H or H-L is very useful. The most used mode for me was the Low, followed by Medium. High was too powerful for most of my EDC uses, but great to have for quick blasts.

The previous gallery has two in-use photos on a pathway to compare these two lights. In the earlier beam-shot gallery you could see the effect of the even circle of light the Stiletto emits. Once you get outdoors and don’t have light bouncing round to fill in the areas beyond the outer edge of the beam – the tunnel vision effect becomes more pronounced. You can see with both the Defender and Stiletto aimed in the same way, the Defender view is complete where the Stiletto’s beam leaves you blind beyond the narrower circle of the beam. Using the Stiletto in unlit areas required more beam movement and scanning to see where your feet are going.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Defender E2D Ultra – no direct access to Low.
Stiletto – tail-switch a bit too stiff to hold-on in tactical mode.
Stiletto – beam profile can cause tunnel vision in unlit outdoor areas.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Defender E2D Ultra – Powerful output (that seems more than it is).
Defender E2D Ultra – Great beam profile.
Defender E2D Ultra – Excellent neutral beam colour.
Defender E2D Ultra – High and Low level.
Defender E2D Ultra – Lockout.
Defender E2D Ultra – Slim and easy to carry.
Defender E2D Ultra – Super quality build.
Stiletto – Very ‘pocket friendly’ shape.
Stiletto – Choice of modes.
Stiletto – Two switches, side and tail.
Stiletto – Programmable modes for switches.
Stiletto – USB chargeable.
Stiletto – Fuel gauge indicator.
Backed by Surefire’s guarantee.

 

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