Gear Review: Halfbreed Blades MFE-01 Rhino Tool

This detailed review of the MFE-01 (Rhino Tool) from Halfbreed Blades takes a close look at a tool bursting with design intent. A specialist Method of Entry (MOE) / Breaching tool that was developed for the Special Operations Engineer Regiment (SOER) by Halfbreed Blades’ sister brand Hardcore Hardware Australia, and is a NATO stock numbered tool.

Multi-function design make the MFE-01 ideally suited for prying, digging, chopping, hammering, cutting, smashing rock, defeating locks, smashing windows, breaking and raking windscreens and as a climbing aid. The entire tool is overbuilt for outstanding longevity and is made from 8mm Bohler K110 (D2) tool steel and G10.

The MFE-01 is widely in use globally amongst Military and Law Enforcement groups, and is highly sought after by civilian users thanks to its highly functional design.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


A few more details:

What’s in the box?:
Considering the intent of the MFE-01 tool, and its likely deployment, the presentation box was a surprise, and a substantial one.
The box is shown with a Hardcore Hardware MILF folder and the one with my hand sticking into shot isn’t a mistake, but to give you some scale to appreciate the size of this box.
Opening it up and you have your fill of Halfbreed Blades contents; a rubber patch, catalogue, information sheet, certificate of authenticity and sticker.
Putting these aside we get to the high density foam liner precisely cut out for the sheathed tool. The optional belt loop sits next to the main tool with the extra fixing screw tucked underneath it.


A good look round the Rhino Tool’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
I’ve said it before and will say it again, the sheath or carrier for a tool is as important as the tool it carries, not least as if it fails, you have no tool at all.
The MFE-01’s sheath has a lot to look at. First in the gallery is a closer view of the belt holder. The Rhino tool is quite a weight to have on your belt, so I’ve not opted to adopt this myself, but it is a strong and serious option if you want to carry it on a belt. Of course you might also have a pack where this it the best way to attach it so it might not be used for a belt anyway. It is a ‘DOTS’ belt holder with belt width setting, lock, release button, and can be mounted horizontally or vertically.
The sheath is Kydex with metal hollow rivets holding the halves together. Once clicked into place the tool stays put, but for maximum security there is a retention strap with a pull-the-dot press stud.
For the MOLLE or belt loop fixings, the nuts are captive in the Kydex, so all the fixing holes are permanently threaded and ready to use.
The rigid DOTS MOLLE mounts are fast and easy to use. The mounting screws for the full MOLLE mount are hidden under the two MOLLE straps, so you need to partially disassemble the mount to access the fixing screws if you want to replace the mount with the belt loop.


A good look round the MFE-01 Rhino Tool – Things to look out for here are:
And here we have the MFE-01 Rhino tool. A slab of 8mm D2 steel with G10 slab handles – so take from that it is flat in overall form. When we get on to the in-use results, this is a factor in performance, but the main reason for the flatness is the requirement of being carried and not catching, digging in or otherwise impeding the user when they are not using it.
The prying end of the tool has a straight wedge with nail puller split. I specify a ‘straight’ wedge to indicate the pry tool does not have a levering bend, but is straight.
Just next to the pry tool is a lashing point through the shaft. The G10 handle slabs start just above this and are screwed onto the shaft. A slightly closer view shows the G10 layers.
As well as the round lashing hole, or lanyard hole, the handle has long slots that both reduce weight and can also have cord wrapped through then.
Moving up to the head, one of the main features is a versatile ratcheting claw; the jimping on the top allows you to work the claw into position step by step, giving a powerful ratcheting action.
Partnering the claw is a compact splitting head. This is not a axe for chopping wood as you might in bushcraft, but a powerful and focused striking point for splitting and smashing. The head is small for maximum striking power and the angles wide for edge stability and endurance.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
This section is from knife testing measurements, and was carried out to give some of the aspects which are also relevant to this tool’s effectiveness and balance. Bear this in mind when looking through the values which are intended to assess knives not tools like this.
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from D2 steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Like the knife parameter measurements, this was included out of interest for the small factory cutting edge on the splitting head.


What is it like to use?

Let’s not forget, this is a military tool with a NATO Stock number, so when we look at this as a tool in itself, and for general use or prepping, the compromises of certain functions are absolutely intentional within the overall design.
This tool is intended to be carried into conflict, and, critically, to minimise how much it will impede the user’s movement when carrying it. This is a vital factor to keep in mind while assessing the tool in comparison to dedicated, larger and less easy to carry tools.

When considering the uses of a tool like this, it occurs to me that though this is termed a MOE or Method of Entry tool, this is also a Method of Escape/Exit tool. You might want to breach a door to enter or exit.

Basic ergonomics are of an easy to handle mid-weight hand tool. The G10 handle scales bulk up the 8mm steel to make for a comfortable hold. I’m only showing three of many possible grip positions here. In use you will grip the entire head as a handle when prying.
The action of sheathing and unsheathing is of rotating the head out of the sheath with the claw being the pivot point. Re-sheathing starts with hooking the claw into its socket and rotating the head into place.


Starting off this next gallery are a few prying examples. This is actually the first completely straight prying tool I have ever used (of a good size, not counting pocket prybars). All dedicated prying tools have a bend or curve to allow levering and room for the handle to move and the pry head to lift. With a straight pry tool you typically need to use a different technique. Some prying tasks may have plenty of room to move, for example prying a crate open, but others, like lifting nails usually end up with running out of room to lever them out. A simple technique to eliminate this issue is to place a spacer piece under the pry tool and use this to lever over and provide the same lift as a bent pry tool. If you need more lift, add another spacer.
The claw tool has so many potential uses that I haven’t been able to try, from piercing, smashing, lifting, raking. My testing was of controlled lifting and applying force where I could not grip with my hand. Unfortunately the day at the wreckers yard didn’t work out, so I can’t report on vehicle tests.
Remembering the splitting head (not axe head) has a wide geometry for durability, you need to wield it for a smashing/splitting action more than chopping. It made quick work of dry pallet wood, a good indication of providing you with effective destructive power.


Assessing and testing this tool in more of a prepper, survival, and enthusiast’s point of view does slightly conflict with some of the military design requirements. The design, and its capabilities, are all specifically designed to meet a military brief. In this, the design of the MFE-01 meets the requirements, and a compromise in one aspect is due to a more important requirement.

Don’t compare the Rhino tool to a normal crowbar, axe, hammer or any other dedicated tool, instead it is a versatile and tough multi-tool for SHTF scenarios that will let you break things you otherwise couldn’t, while keeping it as easy and safe to carry as possible.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

The exposed pry prongs can dig into other kit.
Removal of the MOLLE hanger requires partial disassembly due to a concealed screw.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Super tough design – ‘Rhino’ is a very appropriate name.
G10 handle has stood up to being levered against for prying.
Secure grip (despite absolutely straight handle).
Teflon coating holding up very well, even against pulling nails.
Very stable carry platform.
Secure sheath with positive action.
Failure of the G10 would not prevent the tool being used.
Solid, single piece, full tang construction.

 
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Gear Review: Work Sharp Blade Grinding Attachment

What should I be calling this review? It is actually a review of the optional add-on Blade Grinding Attachment for the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Sharpener, which is getting to be quite a mouthful! However although the Blade Grinding Attachment is an add-on accessory for the Ken Onion Edition Sharpener and can’t be used without it, I have titled the review as being a review of the “Work Sharp Blade Grinding Attachment” because for me it is what the attachment brings to the table that is the main feature.

I’ve had my eye on the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition for a long time. For me it wasn’t quite right (though I still think this is excellent as is) until I tried the optional Blade Grinding attachment.

For my needs it is the Blade Grinding Attachment that transforms the Ken Onion Edition Sharpener into a real workhorse sharpening system.

The Blade Grinding Attachment effectively adds a mini bench belt grinder to the Work Sharp, and this was the clincher for me. I’ve been using a 1″ belt grinder with an angle setting guide I made and added to it myself for 99% of my sharpening. Now, thanks to Work Sharp I’ve got a much more compact and specifically knife edge focused tool.

This fantastic sharpener is now being used to create the Tactical Reviews ‘WORK SHARP Sharp’ standard for all my knife testing.

Join me in this detailed look at the optional add-on Blade Grinding Attachment for the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Sharpener.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


A little more Background:
Before diving in to the image galleries, in effect there are two reviews combined here. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Sharpener, and the separate Blade Grinding Attachment for this sharpener. This combination is also sold as a kit version called the Work Sharp Elite Knife Sharpening Solution.

A few more details:

What’s in the box? – Ken Onion Edition Sharpener:
This is the foundation sharpener, which is complete in itself.


A good look round the Ken Onion Edition Sharpener – Things to look out for here are:
Using an in-line transformer makes for a very tidy setup, and of course it will have the mains plug suitable for your country. Though it looks like a single machine, the sharpener is a motor/control unit, and a belt sharpening head that fits onto the motor assembly (this is important later when it comes to the blade grinding attachment).
The Ken Onion Edition Sharpener head has a pair of angle guides plus an edge guide to support the blade. To control the speed of the belt, the motor unit has a trigger with rotating maximum speed dial. The trigger also has a locking button so you can set it running and not need to hold the trigger switch, leaving you both hands free.
Sharpening angle is set using a dial adjuster with clearly marked angles from 15 to 30 degrees. The last image in the gallery with the spring showing is the belt tensioning roller.


What’s in the box? – Blade Grinding Attachment:
As well as the main sharpener, the Blade Grinding Attachment also has an unsupported, or ‘slack’ belt, so will create a convex edge. In the box are the attachment and a set of belts for it, as these are a different size/length compared to the main sharpener’s belts.


A good look round the Blade Grinding Attachment – Things to look out for here are:
One of the belt rollers is the motor spindle itself, so on its own it might appear that one belt roller is missing (but isn’t). The Blade Grinding Attachment has three rollers; one tensioning roller, and an angle adjustable set of twin rollers that give you the edge angle you want. A shelf at the front of the Blade Grinding Attachment gives you the zeroing position of the blade angle relative to the adjustable angle section of the belt. The set of twin rollers is moved to the desired angle and the locking screw on the back tightened to maintain this setting. There are two positions for one of the twin rollers that allow you to effectively change how ‘slack’ the belt is. The knob on the tensioner provides tracking adjustments for the different belts. There is even a small support shelf at the rear of the Blade Grinding Attachment for using as a mini belt grinder. Fitting to the motor is via a bayonet style of locking ring.


What it is like to use?
In this gallery, the first thing I am doing is taking off and discarding the sharpening head for the Ken Onion Edition Sharpener to leave just the motor assembly (no offense to the Ken Onion Edition). Then on goes the Blade Grinding Attachment. Now you can see how the motor spindle (which has a left-hand screw belt retainer fitted into it) then completes the belt roller path.
The tensioning roller has a finger tab for you to push on and it rotates and locks into a retracted position. Like this the belt pops on and off easily, and with the new belt in place, a quarter turn on the finger tab and the tensioner unlocks and grabs the belt.


Although the Blade Grinding Attachment has clamping points, I’ve been using the sharpener sitting under its own weight, and it hasn’t moved or needed to be secured.

The process of using the angled section of the belt, is to first lay the blade on the reference surface at zero degrees, then move up and to the belt. This sequence is showing the process on one side, then the other, and then going to a finer belt and repeating. The last photos in the gallery has an orange item on the right, which is an LED light used to help show the burr that has been raised on the edge.
In this gallery the two rollers that set the angle for the belt are shown in their widest spacing, however, since these images were taken I have changed to the narrower spacing as I prefer the slightly firmer belt tension this creates between the rollers.


Powered sharpeners give you such a massive time saving over manual sharpeners, but it is also possible to make mistakes faster too.

Here I have take on an edge bevel re-profile from a 70 degree inclusive angle to 35 degrees inclusive. The primary grind angle on this blade is quite wide, so as the edge bevel angle was halved, the edge bevel width has increased significantly. In fact the entire edge bezel does not fit in the magnified view.
This re-profiled edge was done using a very light pressure onto the 120 grit belt, followed by a strop using a metal polishing compound. The result was nicely hair popping.

Both the Work Sharp Ken Onion standard sharpening head and the Blade Grinding Attachment use a ‘unsupported belt’. There is no platen behind the section of belt used for sharpening. This is also termed a ‘slack belt’. A consequence of this is that the edge created by the Work Sharp is convexed. You can vary how much the edge is convexed in a couple of ways. With the Blade Grinding Attachment, the rollers that set the angle of the belt can be positioned closer (less convexed edge) or wider apart (more convexed edge). As the belt is ‘slack’ you can also increase pressure onto the belt, which will deflect it more and produce an edge with more pronounced convexing.
All of this allows you to play around with settings and pressure to find the edge bevel shape you prefer; always slightly convexed, but you can decide how much.


I am now going to back to that point about time saving with a powered sharpener; you will either save a lot of time making a knife very sharp, or ruin it in double quick time. No sharpening system is fool-proof. Sharpening, as a process, relies on removing metal and forming a fine cutting edge. Just like sharpening a pencil, you can over sharpen and use the pencil up much faster than needed. A powered pencil sharpener can eat up the entire pencil in no time.

Sharpening is a skill you need to learn, whatever system you use. Work Sharp, with the Ken Onion Edition, or this extra enhancement of the Blade Grinding Attachment give you an excellent tool, which you will get more and more out of as you learn to work with it.

With a good powered system, and the Work Sharp is excellent, you can concentrate on the skill and control of positioning the blade, without the repeated effort of grinding the metal away yourself. The powered movement of the abrasive allows you to finesse your technique.

Tactical Reviews new standard in sharpness is now ‘WORK SHARP Sharp’ thanks to the Ken Onion Edition Sharpener with Blade Grinding Attachment.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Very easy to misshape the blade tip (requires good technique to avoid).
The vertical belt section is also not supported and flexes.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Complete control of belt speed.
Quick and easy belt changes.
Long duty cycle (rated for 1 hour continuous running).
Allows for varying amount of edge convexing.
Angle of belt set by movable roller assembly.
Very compact for a high quality mini belt grinder.
Super fast sharpening and re-profiling.
Solid build quality.
Very quickly get your edges ‘WORK SHARP Sharp’.

 
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Knife Review: Extrema Ratio FRAME ROCK XXV Anniversarium

Extrema Ratio have been celebrating their 25th Anniversary in style with a number of limited runs of new and old models.

In this review we are looking at the XXV Anniversarium Limited Edition of the overbuilt folder, the FRAME ROCK. If you do miss out on the limited edition, most of the content here is perfectly valid for the standard FRAME ROCK, so limited or standard, you can get one of these ROCK solid folders.

This review of the Extrema Ratio FRAME ROCK includes an in depth video with overview and detailed measurements, plus image galleries and more.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


What’s in the box?:
Included with the Anniversarium Limited Edition, is a special numbered presentation case and Anniversarium challenge coin. In this section, instead of unboxing we are looking at that special presentation case.


The Anniversary Coin:
Before we move on, here are both sides of the Anniversarium challenge coin.


A REALLY good look round the FRAME ROCK – Things to look out for here are:
Unprecedented in size, this gallery contains more photos of details than ever before, to take in as much of this special edition as possible.
Folded or not, the FRAME ROCK is unmistakably Extrema Ratio with its grip pattern. The FRAME ROCK has presence even though it is relatively compact. On the plain head of the pivot bolt there is an engraving of the anniversary logo with a further XXV Anniversarium engraving just above this. Immediately you can see the 6mm thick blade stock with heavy jimping. An integral lock, the FRAME ROCK has a steel insert on the end of the lock bar to increase lock life and it can be replaced if needed.
Extrema Ratio folders use a pivot bolt with locking screw that prevents loosening. Unusually, the deep carry clip wraps completely over the end of the handle, fixed onto the opposite side’s handle. As it wraps over it has a slot to allow the glass breaker to protrude through the clip (this can be fitted on the opposite side).
Waisted spacers hold the handles in place, and give the FRAME ROCK its open back layout.
As the glass breaker is fixed in the solid handle (not the lock bar side), to accommodate this, should you swap the clip side, there is an extra slot in the clip.
Looking right into the pivot, what is visible are the ball bearing cups for the pivot bearings that give the blade a smooth action.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from N690 steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?

A compact, heavyweight, overbuilt knife, it almost seems a contradiction, but the compact size actually allows for a relatively light weight for such a robust knife.
Featuring a beautiful spearpoint blade with fuller, using the same blade shape as the Contact and Contact C fixed blade models. The blade shape adds to the unique look the FRAME ROCK brings.
The more you handle it, the more you understand the allure of the unusual robustness for a knife of this size. Typically, overbuilt folders are much larger, but the FRAME ROCK fits within the hand, while having an incredible solidity – hugely satisfying.
Somehow it also belies belief that such a wide spearpoint could fit into the handle, looking all the more impressive as you swing it open.


For larger hands, the compact handle does mean the clip tends to dig in if you are working the FRAME ROCK hard, and in the left hand, the glass breaker can dig into your hand when taking a tight grip. But trade this off against the overbuilt strength you are carrying, a blade that will take on heavy tasks and not break a sweat.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Glass breaker digs into hand when used left-handed.
Thick blade reduces slicing ability.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Incredible robustness for its size.
Stunning spearpoint blade with fuller.
Deep-carry ambidextrous clip.
Replaceable steel lock bar insert.
Pivot-bolt locking-screw to prevent loosening.
Smooth ball-bearing blade pivot.
Thick Titanium frame.
Special numbered presentation case.
Anniversarium challenge coin.

 
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Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Light Review: Fenix PD36 TAC

In this review of the Fenix PD36 TAC, I’m going to be taking a detailed look at the details, comparing its performance to the specifications, checking out the beam and how usable it is. The review includes video content as well as photo galleries and technical testing results.
Join me in this look over the Fenix PD36 TAC Flashlight / Torch, a light built around the increasingly common larger 21700 cell (compared to the typical 18650 previously used). This has a specialised tail-cap with physical lockout, dedicated ‘Tactical’ setting, and a normal ‘duty’ multi-mode setting.
Let’s get to really know the Fenix PD36 TAC!

Video Overview

Starting out with the video overview of the PD36 TAC.


What is in the box?:

Unpacking the PD36 TAC and its accessories.


Taking a more detailed look at the holster:

Before moving onto the PD36 TAC itself, this is a run round the supplied belt holster.


A good look round the PD36 TAC – Things to look out for here are:
In the gallery are details of the design, the clip, bezel, contacts, threads, battery, and more…


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Below are the indoor and outdoor beamshots giving you an idea of throw and spill. The PD36 TAC has a great balanced beam with great area lighting.


Batteries and output:

The PD36 TAC runs on the supplied 21700 USB-C rechargeable cell.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Measured output is a great match for the specifications.

For the runtime graphs, I have included runs for Turbo and Tactical, which have different starting outputs. Also included is a graph of the first six minutes to better show the difference between Turbo and Tactical modes.


The PD36 TAC in use
The general change towards using 21700 cells is great for two reasons; better runtime/output and a comfortable size to hold. If you were completely unaware of the reason the battery tube was larger than previous generations that run on 18650, you would just be thinking the PD36 TAC is nice and comfortable to hold. The fact that it now houses a 21700 cell with that 5000mAh capacity is a further bonus to the comfort in the hand. Win win at this point.

With that greater capacity of the 21700 cell, this compact tactical light can pump out a huge 3000lm. Go back and look at the runtime graphs to see how impressively the PD36 TAC keeps its output going. The output limitation is more down to thermal capacity for longer runs.

This is the first of this style of Fenix tactical tail-cap I have been able to try. It has three functional modes. One is a simple and solid physical lockout. Line the selector ring up with the padlock, and the button does not move.

The selector ring certainly feels secure enough in its positioning that you won’t be accidentally going between locked and unlocked by accident. You pre-select the type of use you want and leave it there. Bear in mind, you can also use this to lock the PD36 TAC on. If you first turn it on to a mode you want and then rotate the selector ring to the padlock, you can’t turn it off again.

Being designed as a ‘Tactical’ light, most users will likely keep it in ‘Tactical’ mode – instant 2000lm output with momentary or latched action. Half press the tail-switch for momentary output, complete the press to latch it on (or just go for the full press to start with). Holding the switch fully in for about 1s and you enter strobe mode.

Move the selector round to the ‘Duty’ mode and you have access to five different output levels. Starting on ‘eco’ the first time you use it, but after that the last used level is remembered. Changing modes requires a half press – this can either be a half press from off and then cycle through modes before latching on, or a half press after turning the PD36 TAC on with a full press, the half presses then cycling through modes. Personally I would have preferred an automatic reset to eco after a few seconds being off as after not using it for a period of time, you won’t know if you had eco or turbo set, and this could be quite a shock.

The Fenix PD36 TAC is a purposeful lighting tool, and can instantly be reconfigured as either a dedicated ‘Tactical’ light or into a multi-mode ‘Duty’ light to fit with your needs.


Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

‘Duty’ mode last used level remembered (so could be on eco or turbo).
Tail-switch has a relatively stiff action.
No grip ring provided.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Great area lighting beam profile.
Nearly 3000lm from a compact light.
Three function tail-cap selector ring.
Dedicated ‘Tactical’ mode.
Proper physical lockout.
Uses a large capacity 21700 cell.
Supplied cell has built-in USB-C charging.
Very usable holster supplied.

Knife Review: Spyderco Respect – an American Bowie

With the Spyderco Respect, Sal Glesser is paying tribute to the traditional American Bowie knife. The design of the Respect dates back decades, but Sal didn’t have the opportunity to make it a reality until a couple of years ago. In this review I’m very excited to have the opportunity to take a very detailed look over this mighty bowie, and see how it really is to use.

Video Overview

In this video of the Respect, I’ll show you how it arrives, how it compares to some other well known bowie knives, and run through the Tactical Reviews technical specification measurements.
This is some of the pre-use processes I go through for a new test sample before I can put a knife through its paces, so doesn’t include the in-use aspects beyond first impressions.


A few more details:

What’s in the box?:
Or should I say bag? – This is the unpacking of the Respect, and differs from the typical Spyderco as it does not come in a box.



A good look round the Respect’s sheath – Things to look out for here are:
Starting with the leather sheath that comes with the Respect. Simple and functional with a classic strap and stud fastening.



A good look round the Respect – Things to look out for here are:
A mighty blade, and a superb level of fit and finish. Take in the detailed close-ups and enjoy.



A good look round the Respect’s handle – Things to look out for here are:
A fully concealed, full tang, with the two G10 slabs secured with four bolts.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from CPM 154 steel.


The Factory edge up close – NEW FOR 2022!:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

The Respect’s factory edge shows an aggressive micro-serration, and slices well beyond the sharpness measurements might indicate in the technical testing table.


What is it like to use?

It’s a mighty blade! So the first impression is that this is a big knife, big blade and big handle. I take XL size gloves, so you can see here the handle is generously sized, perfectly big enough to use with heavy gloves on and stay comfortable.
The large choil easily allowing a finger to be placed for a choked up hold when carrying out finer cutting tasks.
A deep hook at the butt means even if you have a bit of grip slippage, the hook will stop you losing grip. That hook also allows for a low grip for greater leverage in heavy chopping.


Staying on the subject of grip, though the handle scales are relatively smooth, the four bolt holes actually (intentionally or not) give a lot of extra purchase. The holes have a sharp edge to them so when gripping your hands press into them and grab.

CPM 154 – oh yes, one of my all time favourites and this knife is one big piece of CPM 154. I have to drop in another name here, Leatherman, and the reason being that in Leatherman pliers with replaceable wire cutters, the cutter is made of CPM 154, chosen as the idea tool steel to cut hardened steel wire! And here it is as the blade steel used for the Respect – Yes! (Ok a bit of steel bias there, but I like it.)

This knife has a spine measuring 7.5mm, which is massive! Yet with a full flat grind 38mm long, the blade geometry is still a strong slicer – it does ultimately still need to part the material past that 7.5mm spine, but for such a strong blade it is still impressively good at slicing.

As a chopper it is very capable. In the photos below all the wood is well seasoned, even the small branch shown. In dry timber the blade can bind a bit when cutting in deep, but once you get a few relief cuts in the wood chips fly! Grip is perfectly secure when chopping and the grip hook definitely helps.
There is a also a photo of a single chop into an industrial cardboard tube (5mm dense card walls) which it went through with ease.


The Respect is not for the faint hearted; when you carry this knife, you mean to carry a knife. It is imposing, impressive and a powerful cutter.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Needing to choke-up on the blade for fine work.
Belt loop position makes the knife ride high.
The blade spine is almost too thick.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Large choil makes sharpening to the very heel easy.
Comfortable handle, large enough to wear heavy gloves.
Traditional look in modern high performance materials.
Quality leather sheath.
CPM 154 steel.
Full Flat grind.
A really ‘purposeful’ design with presence.

 
Discussing the Review:
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Classic Knife Review: Spyderco Police and Military Models

We all know them, we might not all have them. These two Spyderco classics (Police and Military) have stood the test of time and use, and are still current models – for good reason.
I refer to them as ‘Classics’ and Spyderco calls the Police model a ‘Signature’ model and the Military a ‘USA Made’ and/or ‘Save and Serve’ model. Both really qualify as a classic in my opinion and are worthy of being in your pocket.

Video Overview

This video is a detailed look at the Police and Military Models, from handling to technical measurements. Hopefully something for everyone and you should have a better idea if you should also pick up one or both.


A good look round the Police Model – Things to look out for here are:
Being of full stainless steel construction, and having brushed steel handles, to ensure you get it in new condition, the handle scales come with protectors fitted that you need to peel off.
The Police model has drilled and tapped holes in all four possible clip positions, so you can decide the very best clip position for your needs (personally I changed this to tip-up and right handed).
Being a long standing model it unsurprisingly uses a back lock.
With a rivet type of blade pivot, there is no adjustment or user servicing possible. The pivot rivet finishing is excellent and completely invisible.
This example is the part serrated version, but it also comes in a fully serrated or full plain edge blade.


A good look round the Military Model – Things to look out for here are:
Immediately unmistakably Spyderco, with the G10 handle scales, pocket clip and opening hole, the Military is a good sized folder.
Unlike the Police model, the Military can be taken apart, with the G10 handle scales bolted together and a pivot bolt. Also unlike the Police model, the Military has only the one clip position (tip-down right handed).
Recessed into the G10 handles are minimal steel liners and the Military uses a liner lock. Just to drive home that point about ‘minimal’ steel liners, this is what allows for the light weight yet still strong construction. The liner on the non-lock side just goes from handle bolt to handle bolt to the pivot (supporting the stop pin as well). The other partial liner is larger as it includes the lock bar.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

An extra detail not in this table is the edge angle of the serration on the Police Model. One of the reasons the Spyderco serrations cut so well is that they are chisel grind (so only one side is sharpened) making the edge angle very fine – in this case just 17 degrees total inclusive edge angle (0 degrees one side and 17 the other).


The Factory edge up close – NEW FOR 2022!:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

In this case the serrated part of the Police model (the plain edge part was sharpened before the imaging device was ready) and the edge of the Military model.

These two edges are outstanding and will the standard by which others are judged!


What is it like to use?

Before going further with using them, a quick side by side (and one on top of the other) size and form-factor comparison.


Moving onto the two knives in the hand, and despite being very similar in size, they do feel very different when you hold them. The G10 handles of the Military make for a different weight distribution plus fill the hand more. Of the two, the Military is definitely the more comfortable and easy to have a very secure grip of. Conversely though this makes it harder to carry, taking up more pocket space. The Police model is very slim and even at the size it is, slips into your pocket so easily.


In terms of carry, the Police model also gives you all four possible clip positions (or five if you count – ‘no clip’) so there isn’t any limitation of the clip position. Although that said, this current version is missing a lanyard hole if you wanted one of these.
For my own purposes, I have moved the clip from the factory position to tip-up and right handed.

Of course for edge maintenance, especially considering the serrated edge on the Police model, the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharp Maker (also pictured above) is ideal and easy to use.

Both the Police and Military models do have a very pointy blade tip, the Police being the slightly pointier of the two. It makes them very aggressive at penetrating, and for anyone more used to a drop point or other less eager blade tip might find them unwieldy or difficult to control. You certainly need to use great care where depth of cut matters, and the long blade can make this control all the more difficult. You will get used to it, but it does need care and consideration when wielding these super capable blades.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Military –
single clip position.
clip/G10 abrasive on pocket edge.

Police –
no lanyard hole.
slippery when wet.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Military –
Very light for its size.
Very ‘eager’ blade (full flat grind and sharp point).
Liner lock makes for very smooth opening.
G10 handles have excellent grip.
Spyderco high quality fit and finish
One of the best factory edges I have ever seen!

Police –
Slim design makes it easy to carry.
Pocket clip has four possible positions.
Spyderco serrations incredibly sharp.
Three options for blade (plain, serrated, part-serrated).

Hope to see you at IWA 2022 soon!

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

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Light Review: Cyansky H3 and H5 (built-in Red/Green Filter)

Cyansky have come up with a novel way to solve the problem of having multiple colours of light in a single device without many of the compromises multi-LED or LED swapping lights might have. Most people will have come across, or used, colour filters to change the output of a white beam, but these are easily forgotten or lost. In the Cyansky H3 and H5 hunting models, glass filters are completely contained within the head of the light and the patented mechanism lets you drop a red or green filter in front of the XHP35 HI LED with a simple twist of the control ring – nothing else needed. The H3 and H5 use the increasingly popular 21700 cell to provide more power and runtime, but can run on an 18650 or 2 CR123s for added versatility.
Join me in the detailed examination of these two hunting lights and see how they perform.

Video Overview

Starting with a look over these light in a short video.

This is what arrived from Cyansky –

A good look round the H3 – Things to look out for here are:
As you may have already seen in the video, first up are the contents of the box. The H3 has a belt hanger (rather than full holster) providing a head-up belt carry option. Moving round the H3 and we get onto the mode switch and filter control ring at the base of the head. The tail-switch is semi-recessed, so allowing for tail standing, but with cutouts to ease access to the switch. The stainless bezel ring is wide and well finished. And then a first look at one of the filters.
The H3 comes with a 21700 with built-in USB-C charging. As it arrives there is a plastic insulator to prevent accidental discharge in the light.


A good look round the H5 – Things to look out for here are:
With the H5, the details are the same as for the H3, so I won’t repeat them, the difference is in the much larger head and reflector to give extra beam range.
One small observation which doesn’t affect function at all is that the mode switch has room to move about and twist, so might look a little ‘off’. This doesn’t affect function at all, and is only mentioned in case you see the button looking slightly twisted (this is the same for both models).


The Remote Switch and scope mount:
The supplied remote switch replaces the tail-cap of either the H3 or H5. The remote switches are in a rail-mount unit, and you have a momentary only switch, plus a forward clicky latching switch much like the original tail switch.
The scope mount is basic and easy to use, but I would not use it for heavy duty setups. For smaller calibers and for quick tool-less mounting it works well, and has enough stand off for the H3 or H5.


The Cyansky special feature – built-in colour filters:
Now for a set of images to just show the built-in filter change. I’ve used the H3 here as with the smaller head it is easier to see the filter better than with the H5. First no filter – with the filter holder just having a little bit of extra reflector round the base of the LED. Then part of the way to dropping a filter in place (this is NOT how you use it, just showing the filter holder disk rotating). Finally with the red and green glass filters shown in place over the LED.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Stepping through these beamshots we have the H3 white beam, then H5 white beam, and as you go through the gallery it is H3 then H5 to show a direct comparison on each colour indoors and out.


Batteries and output:

The two models runs on 21700 cells. Logging the built-in USB-C charging gives these traces for the cell provided with each light.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

The Output table also includes the manufacturer specified lumens for comparison.

For the runtime trace, only the highest and lowest output colours were used (white and red) and all traces were run on maximum power.


The H3 and H5 in use

The first aspect to mention is how the H3 and H5 themselves compare. Actually this photo doesn’t show it accurately, but from the control ring to tail-cap, the H3 and H5 are identical. Not a surprise as they run on the same cell, have the some output specifications (apart from beam range), and have the same controls. So when holding them, they are the same for grip and controls.

With the larger head, and larger reflector, the H5 does have the edge in overall output, and it focuses the beam more for a longer reach. This gallery shows some longer distant photos on a golf course driving range. The H3 and H5 beams compared directly. The focus of the H5 is clearly visible at these longer ranges.


Using a zoom rifle scope this gallery has a set of images at the same exposure to show the gain in distance the H5 has over the H3. The magnification is set to 8x in this first gallery.
Important to note is that the distance markers the scope is aimed at are 250 yards, and that the H3 is still usable on white output, but struggles a bit at this range on the coloured output.
Also bear in mind that I am using a .22lr on this course, so 250 yards it beyond the limit I would take a shot.


Now taking the scope to 16x magnification. Although all the images here are the same exposure, I have had to use a longer exposure than for the 8x magnification. At this range and magnification the H3 was pushed too far. the H5 was still working well.
This was to test the limits for range and scope magnification. (At 32x magnification I could not get any photos to come out.)


All of the above proves the H3 and H5 work well on or off a rifle, and the coloured output filters, being built-in, are so convenient, allowing for changes of output colour with nothing but a turn of the control ring.
Although I normally use dedicated coloured lights (so the LED is red or green) due to being most efficient and having the best quality of beam, it means I need to carry entire replacement lights to change colour. There are also LED swapping lights on the market but these compromise the thermal path as the heat sink has to move. With the H3 and H5, the single LED has an optimal thermal path for heat sinking.
Using filters on any light does reduce efficiency as you are ‘wasting’ up to 93% of the actual output (in the case of the red 1306lm down to 94lm). This is the cost of the convenience of instant access to red green or white light.

As long as you have a suitable rail to mount the remote switch on, this switch works really well. By including both a dedicated momentary switch, and a latching forward-clicky switch that gives you momentary and permanent on options, you have all you might want. If you don’t have a rail in the right place, this switch won’t really work for you, so consider this before choosing.

If you normally use a dedicated coloured light, then do you switch to the H3 and H5? – if you ever have a need to change between red, white, and green, then the all-in-one solution these Cyansky lights give you allows you to stop carrying additional separate lights.
If you use, or would consider using colour filters, then the H3 and H5 are no-brainers. Why would you want external filters you can lose, that are often a plastic filter material, when you can have self-contained selectable glass filters?

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Using filters is not efficient compared to dedicated coloured lights.
The mode button can look a little twisted as it has a little too much room to move.
Basic belt hanger provided.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Glass filters are used.
Simple turn of the control ring to change filter colour.
21700 power (plus can use 18650 or CR123 if needed).
Supplied 21700 is USB-C chargeable.
Good choice of beam pattern between the H3 and longer reaching H5.

You can find the Official Cyansky Store Here, if you would like to get hold of these lights. (I have no affiliation and get no reward for you buying from this link).

Knife Review: Extrema Ratio T4000 C

Included in this review of the Extrema Ratio T4000 C, a compact classic Tanto with Extrema Ratio’s tactical sheath and handle, are a video with an overview and detailed measurements, galleries of the packaging, sheath, and knife, plus insights into how it is to use.

Let’s take a closer look.

The video tour of the T4000 C:
In case you haven’t seen the video overview and vital statistics of the T4000 C on Tactical Review’s youtube channel, here it is. This video covers a quick tour of the knife and sheath and a detailed technical measurements section.

A few more details:

What’s in the box?:
For the T4000 C, it ‘just fits’ into the box. The usual Extrema Ratio high quality two-part box is used.


A good look round the T4000 C’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
Even though ‘Compact’ the sheath manages to fit in a lot of features and details. Solidly constructed and made to fit the compact knife perfectly. On the back is a set of PALS/MOLLE webbing and strap, with the front also having webbing for mounting a small pouch or other item. A gap in the welt at the base of the sheath allows for free flowing drainage. To comfortably accommodate the thick blade stock the welt is similarly sized.
A strong double press-stud retaining strap wraps the handle and keeps the knife securely in place. you can adjust the position of the retaining strap as it is held in place with a Velcro adjusting system. There is an anti-catch smooth plastic insert backing the sheath to prevent wear and damage to the back of the sheath when sheathing the knife.
With there not being a specific belt loop, using the MOLLE strap, you can make your own belt loop to fit the size of the belt.


The T4000 C knife itself:
From the first view of the satin blade emerging you get drawn into admiring the knife. The beautifully executed fuller on each side of the blade enhances the lines. Extrema Ratio’s distinctive grip design provides an index finger groove to give a strong grip. A single bolt holds the rubber grip in place on the full tang, that extends through to a striker and lanyard hole. Sharpening choils – what is your take? – well the T4000 C does not have one, so the sharp edge stops just short of the plunge line. Also note a front lanyard hole, allowing you to fit a cord to both the front or rear of the handle.
Being the compact model, the handle length sits just within the hand (I take XL size gloves).


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

There is a lot to take in here. These measurements are shown in the video.


What is it like to use?

It’s a tanto – nice – I always like a tanto. There is a practicality of having an almost chisel-like tip and what I refer to as the secondary point (where the tip and main edge meet) for various cuts instead of using the actual tip of the knife.
The elegant lines are simply a pleasure to look at as well as to use, and being the compact knife class from Extrema Ratio this is a really useful day to day blade. Something you are more likely to pick up and use, as it is very practical.

I knew after measuring the factor edge I would want to re-profile the edge bevel, 25DPS is too wide/heavy for a small knife, even 20DPS would be more than I want. But before doing this, with the sharpness measuring a respectable 281 BESS average I wanted to see how it fared. It would not shave arm hair with this edge, however…

Factory edge put to some minor fire prep tasks. The wood here is fully seasoned so much harder than any green wood. Kindling and feather sticks, perfectly good with these little pieces of wood, using the edge out of the box.

After a bit of use, it was time to change the edge bevel to 17DPS and bring that cutting edge a bit closer to the plunge line. As always, putting your own edge on a knife makes all the difference, and now it sings along shaving and slicing ferociously.

Extrema Ratio are good at Tantos, and this is one of their best. The thinned down blade thickness with full flat grind give it great slicing power, yet the blade still starts at 4.1mm at the spine, so is plenty strong for heavy use. Go back and look at the blade in the video as the light plays off it and you really appreciate the qualities of the T4000 C.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

No sharpening choil – personal preference.
Retaining strap is a bit bulky for a compact knife.
Factory edge usable but a bit ‘heavy’.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Build quality and finish.
Practical well designed sheath.
‘Handy’ size being a ‘C’ Compact model.
Very comfortable grip.
Front and rear lanyard points.
Elegant blade profile with fullers.
Reliable steel choice.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

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Tactical Briefcase Face-Off Part 4: The Results

Part 4 of the Tactical Briefcase Face-Off is all about the results! All three Tactical Briefcases in the Tactical Briefcase Face-Off series came from Military 1st who I’ve been buying from for many years.
This series of reviews was originally planned to be a single group review, but has evolved into something much larger as I used each of them for EDC, lived with them, got to know them well, and more and more needed to be shown. In parts 1-3, each of the three Tactical Briefcases (First Tactical Executive Briefcase, Hazard 4 Ditch Bail Out Bag and Condor Metropolis Briefcase) has been shown in detail, and now in Part 4, it all comes together to explain how I got on with each one and their strengths and weaknesses.

Part 1, featuring the First Tactical Executive Briefcase can be seen here.
Part 2, featuring the Hazard 4 Ditch Bail Out Bag can be seen here.
Part 3, featuring the Condor Metropolis Briefcase can be seen here.

The video tour of all three Tactical Briefcases:
In case you haven’t seen the video overview on Tactical Review’s youtube channel, here it is. This video covers all three of the bags.


Part 1 – The First Tactical Executive Briefcase:
The story of this Tactical Briefcase Face-Off series of tests starts with the bag in Part 1, the First Tactical Executive Briefcase.
These briefcases all have to follow in the footsteps of my established 20l EDC backpack. Over the years, this 20l class of backpack has fitted in nicely with my EDC needs, and the most recent of these being the Wisport Sparrow 20 (also reviewed here).

Taking this as my optimum starting point, all the Tactical Briefcases would need to measure up in terms of capacity, storage and function.
We all carry a variety of gear, and I just went with what I actually do EDC rather then contriving a test. Laying it all out ready to move over to the First Tactical bag, this is what I currently carry, and I’m not even going into the contents of the two organiser pouches in there.

So it’s all moved over, and there is room to spare, an easy and straightforward bag move; immediately feeling comfortable and reassured the bag will stand up to use.

Then I EDCed this bag for two weeks before considering a swap to the next.
At this stage where I didn’t have any comparison of using the other bags, I could only consider the first impressions of this one on its own. Sturdy and comfortable would be the words that come to mind. The well padded strap made carrying it very easy despite now having only a single strap compared to a backpack with two. The strap is also super stable, and doesn’t slip off the shoulder thanks to the rubberised grip-strips on the strap pad. On the floor it is nice and stable in the upright position, and the double-zipped top flap makes for very easy access to the main compartment, just make sure you put the most needed items near the front of the compartment.
The well made handles also add to the sturdy feel of the bag and when carrying with the handles they feel very strong. I keep a 10″ tablet in the laptop section rather than a laptop, and this only needs one side of the padded section, easily accessible with the twin zip.
With all the compartments using zip closures, noise levels are low when getting bits and pieces out, although when carrying it is prone to a bit of strap buckle squeaking from the swivels.
A strong start to the face-off series.

Part 2 – The Hazard 4 Ditch Bail Out Bag:
Hazard 4, oh Hazard 4, I do like Hazard 4 quality, so wanted this to be my favourite. I always try not to allow any bias into my assessment of gear, so had to have strong words with myself on how I was going to view this one.
Of the three, the Hazard 4 was the only one not to come with a shoulder strap. I understand why, but actually don’t think it is right that it doesn’t, considering the price point. There isn’t much choice in matching shoulder straps, really only two, the one on test, and a version with additional stabilisation strap that clips onto another loop on the bag. As a separate item, the strap is however of a quality that justifies it being an item itself, and not something made to fit within the overall pricing.
The use of a different fabric on the bottom that is waterproof and wipeable is a great touch and gives the impression this bag will definitely go on and on.

On swap-over day; laying out everything ready to move it over.

Slightly surprisingly, it was a bit more of a challenge to fit everything in, with the bag developing a bulge on the admin panel side. This, combined with the padded laptop compartment on the opposite side being quite rigid and stiff, gave the bag an imbalance and it seems to want to topple over rather than sit upright. This tendency continued throughout the fortnight it was in the EDC rotation, and was somewhat annoying. It was as if the laptop section was a bit too big for the side of the bag, which also impacts on the carrying capacity.

Reliability was never in question, and the strap made it comfortable to carry. Both because the contents seemed to fill it more, and the lack of capacity to take any top-up EDC items, made it appear smaller than the First Tactical bag. This was also noticeable while carrying it; I did not knock into door frames or walls with it (as much), so carry was easier, and more streamlined.
With the admin panel being the whole side, instead of a couple of smaller pockets, it was not as easy or convenient taking out a few bits a pieces. It would be more suited to a kit of items where you need to see them all at once to pick the one you want.
The main compartment however was very usable, with the internal end pockets, pockets on one side and a versatile webbing panel on the other. Access is quick and easy with the lightweight double-zip flap top.

Part 3 – The Condor Metropolis Briefcase:
And the transfer day for the last bag in this series after two weeks with the Hazard 4 – the Condor Metropolis Briefcase. A quick pre-transfer comparison, with the Condor looking like it might be quite similar in capacity to the Hazard 4.

Ready to start packing everything away to get it to all fit in the right way for my regular needs. By this stage I was finding that it is quite a challenge to keep reorganising gear you use all the time after having just got more or less used to where it was in the previous bag. The different pouches, pockets, sections make you rethink where things need to go.

The Condor had no issues accommodating everything without bulges or struggling at all and it is sits upright happily on the floor. The sharp eyed might have spotted in the bag contents there is a large admin pouch in coyote, and this is a Condor too.
In this bag, more Velcro closures are used than the previous two. When in the workplace, ripping these open does make quite a bit of noise and attracts attention. Velcro also has the tendency that once you take one thing out, if the flap falls closed by itself, you then have to rip it open yet again to get item two out. One of the front pockets does have a zip for part of its compartment, but then Velcro for the other part, and the second front pocket is fully Velcro.
Access to the main compartment in this bag is via a single zip requiring you to ‘dig’ a bit more to find things as the compartment is not as openly presented as those with a double-zip flap opening.
The main compartment having only two mesh pockets is simple in structure. Mesh pockets don’t provide much protection for what is in them, or what is on the main compartment, but the mesh does mean it is really easy to see what is in which pocket without a rummage. It really depends on what you carry for how well they suit your needs. In my case I have several items that partially poke through the mesh if I’m not careful.
For the first time in this series, I noticed some discomfort with the shoulder strap, but remember I do have this loaded up and the pouches I carry contain many tools, so can be pushing 10kg. With a slightly lighter load this would not be an issue.

And I was wrong:

After using all three bags, I was convinced that there was a big difference in their empty weight. I was clearly wrong, with this quick gallery of using luggage scales to weigh all of them. So it was purely an impression based on structure, build and materials. (These are in the same order as the previous parts, so it is the Condor that is a touch lighter.)


Review Summary
And here we are now, where having used each of these three bags for a minimum of two weeks EDC, and looked at them in detail, I can come to a conclusion. The conclusion I can come to is only for my own EDC, as our choice of EDC is entirely personal.
On the way to reaching this point I hope to have given you enough information to find one that would suit your needs, with the video tour, individual detailed feature reviews, and the comments and impressions I’ve described earlier in this part of the face-off.

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

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What doesn’t work so well for me
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First Tactical – Can seem a bit big.
First Tactical – Strap squeaks a little when walking if heavily loaded.
Hazard 4 – A bit unbalanced and tending to topple over on the floor.
Hazard 4 – Strap needs to be purchased separately.
Condor – Main compartment access restricted by single zip opening.
Condor – Strap has less padding so is not as comfortable with heavy load.

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Things I like
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First Tactical – Easily has room for additional top-up items.
First Tactical – The most comfortable and stable strap.
First Tactical – Comprehensive pockets, pouches, all with easy access.
Hazard 4 – Super build quality (the others are great, but I’d put this ahead on build).
Hazard 4 – Lots of versatile webbing.
Hazard 4 – Large admin panel packed with features.
Condor – Great all-rounder with simplified main compartment.
Condor – Concealed compartment (easily accessed by pulling the front D-loop).
Condor – Drainage holes in elasticated end pockets in case of leaks.

In short, all of these Tactical Briefcases stand on their own merits. If I had purchased any one of them on its own, it would have done the job, and I would have been happy. You won’t go wrong with any of them, but if you have any specific requirements, take a look back over the details to see which would be the better fit.

For my uses, and the gear I EDC, one of them was a better fit, and is currently serving as my EDC bag…

10 Years of Reviewing, Testing and Innovating.

This milestone sneaked up on me, and it is now 10 years ago that I published my first review – from then on it just kept evolving.

It started when I found online discussion forums and I became an avid reader of online reviews and active participant in forum threads – but there was something slightly lacking…

As a photographer, engineer, outdoorsman and perhaps most importantly an enthusiast, I felt I might have something extra to offer and decided to give it a go and see how I got on. The more work I did, the more I was drawn into trying to better understand the tools and gear I love, and share all of that with others in the most factual and well illustrated way possible. I’ve always worked to introduce new ideas and new tests, many of which have been adopted by other reviewers as part of a standard ‘review formula’.

In 10 years I’ve built up a considerable body of work and experience, and many valued friendships and relationships. Hopefully there is still a lot more to come, with improvements and innovations along the way.

What you might not realise (as a reader) is that all of this (photos and photo editing, technical tests, graphic design, web design, website hosting and management, video and video editing, social media, writing and many more things needed to keep it all running) is done by one person. One person with a full time job in I.T.

I often call reviewing my ‘Hobby Job’, taken as seriously as a paid job, but something that costs quite a bit to keep going, and is a lot to fit around the demands of normal life. ‘Enthusiast’, or is that ‘Crazy Person’?

Thanks to everyone that has supported me so far, in both believing in me, and in taking the time to look at the reviews – Subwoofer (aka Richard)