Tag: hunting

Knife Review: Spyderco Military 2

6 February, 2025

Spyderco’s Military 2 – The 2024 Update of a Classic. The original Spyderco Military Model was designed in 1996, and is a tried and tested knife, proven to be a robust and reliable tool. Building on the strengths of the original design, the Military 2 is refined and updated, bringing in improvements where they make a real difference. Larger stainless steel liners give the knife increased structural strength and also allow the addition of four pocket clip fixing positions. A major switch has been made away from a liner lock and to the signature Spyderco Compression Lock improving safety and handling. Join me in this detailed review of the Spyderco Military 2.

Is the ‘New and Improved’ Spyderco Military 2 actually an improvement? Read on to find out.

What’s in the box?:
This Military 2 comes in the familiar Spyderco box. Included with the knife is a sticker and a leaflet about the exact model of knife.

A good look round the closed Military 2 – Things to look out for here are:

Some of the more obvious updates are easy to spot straight away. The extra pocket clip fitting positions, and compression lock on the back of the handle. Notably missing is the liner lock handle cut-out that normally affects the grip, as the Military 2 now uses a different lock. There is no longer a hole in the clip mount to access the pivot bolt; should you continue to use the clip in a tip-down position, you may need to take it off to adjust the pivot. Next to the compression lock lever, the liners include some thumb grip jimping. Having a choice of all four pocket clip positions is a massive improvement, as clip position is quite a personal choice, and depending if you pocket carry or put onto webbing, you might want to swap this around from time to time. Phosphor-bronze washers; my favourite for stability and reliability.

A good look round the open Military 2 – Things to look out for here are:

Opening up the blade to reveal that long, eager edge. This is a Large folder, no mistaking that. Now we have the blade open you can see the compression lock engaged in the locked position. Thanks to the change of lock, the handle shape can be optimised for grip instead of incorporating the liner lock cut out, so we have improved first-finger grip shaping. Large blade – Large opening hole.

Explained by the Maker:
Spyderco describe the Military 2 as follows.

Designed by Spyderco co-founder Sal Glesser as the perfect knife for forward-deployed military personnel, the original Military Model is one of the cutlery industry’s most iconic designs. More than 25 years after its original release, the eagerly anticipated Military 2 builds on that hard-earned reputation while incorporating several significant design improvements. Instead of a LinerLock, the Military 2’s full-flat ground CPM® S30V® blade is supported by Spyderco’s signature Compression Lock® mechanism, which offers greater strength and even safer one-handed operation. The stainless steel liners that form the foundation of the lock are larger, giving the knife increased structural strength and anchoring its four-position pocket clip, which is configurable for left or right-side, tip-up or tip-down carry. The skeletonized liners are nested within peel-ply-textured G-10 scales to maintain a slim profile and complement its open-backed construction to reduce the knife’s overall weight. A proud successor to a legendary design, the Military 2 is ready to serve.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from S30V steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Spyderco’s factory edges are reliably excellent.

What is it like to use?

We all know what ‘New and Improved’ typically means for our favourite products…it normally means ‘cheaper to manufacture and worse’. Typically.

What about the Military 2, what have Spyderco done to our beloved Military? Well, they have, in fact, made it better. This is not to say the original Military, if Spyderco continue to make the classic, no longer has a place; it is still the classic liner lock it always was. If you pick up the Military and swap to the Military 2 and back, fundamentally they are the same with a long pointy blade, long handle, and powerful cutting ability. Instead it is in the more subtle refinements that the Military 2 shows it improvements, those small differences in regular actions and handling that start to shine through.

General handling makes a couple of those updates all the more apparent. The forward choked-up position now has the proper first finger shaping and grip; it just fits and sits better. Open and close, open and close, and the ease the Compression lock brings also shines through. One-handed closing becoming a breeze with the lock released, and the blade falling closed under its own weight, made safer as you do not need to put your hand in the blade’s path to unlock it.

I absolutely love a big folder, and the Military 2 just wanted to get to work, so who am I to stand in the way! The blade reach is excellent, making all the jobs I deployed it for quick and easy. Over and over those two biggest changes, the lock and improved grip shape making the knife itself almost disappear and the jobs complete themselves. For me the Tip-Up clip position and right-handed side means that as I draw the knife out of my pocket, the handle is already in the right orientation and my thumb finds the opening hole immediately, so I have swapped the clip over to this location from the factory position.
Though it is a heavy duty knife, the fineness of the blade has always made me wonder a little. Personally I’ve never had a Spyderco full-flat blade (or any other) fail on me in use, but it is just with the Military 2, the blade is very long. For part of the testing I decided to baton it through pallet wood cross-grain, cutting not splitting. That slicey blade shape just falls through the boards, and comes back out as easily. No gentle tap here, I was full swing pounding on it, and no concerns at all. Obviously it is easy to actually abuse a blade, and I was not trying to do this, but instead just work it hard. It took all this in its stride.

Is the Military 2 true to the original Military model? – Yes.
Is the Military 2 an improvement over the original Military model? – I certainly say Yes.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
No sharpening choil.
The peeled G10 is very abrasive to your pocket.
It makes me want all the different versions of the Military 2.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Compression lock.
It is a Large folder.
Very slicey and pointy blade.
Improved grip shaping over its predecessor.
Phosphor-bronze pivot washers.
Four-position pocket clip.
Full length steel liners.
Excellent factory edge.
‘New and Improved’ – Yes it is.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Casström No.14 SFK and Lars Fält Slip Joint

25 January, 2025

I decided to pair up a fixed blade and folder for this detailed review; the Casström No. 14 SFK and Casstrom Lars Fält Slip Joint. The No.14 is a new knife designed by Casström to tackle the toughest challenges nature throws your way. Built for rugged outdoor use, bushcrafting, survival skills training, or hunting. With its full-tang construction, the No.14 SFK’s large blade is great for those bigger more demanding jobs, like splitting wood but also just as happy carving too. This example features green Linen Micarta handles and A8Mod steel, and is supplied with a vegetable-tanned leather sheath.
The Casström Lars Falt Slip Joint was created in collaboration with world-renowned Swedish survivalist Lars Fält, and was designed to meet UK EDC legal requirements by virtue of having a non-locking folding blade under 3 inches with a sturdy opening and closing mechanism. The handle is crafted from beautiful Scandinavian curly birch, offering a secure and comfortable grip, and the blade steel is cryo-quenched Alleima (formerly Sandvik) 14C28N, a recycled Swedish stainless steel.

What’s in the box?:
Both knives are presented in cardboard boxes with the minimum of fuss.

The No. 14:

A good look round the No. 14’s sheath – Things to look out for here are:
A beautifully made, traditional friction/gravity leather sheath (vegetable tanned leather). Construction is from one folded piece of leather, plus the double welt insert to protect the stitching and stabilise the blade. Each end of the stitching is riveted for extra strength and the lower rivet is hollow so you can add a leg tie if you want. It also includes a good size drainage hole in the design.

A good look round the No. 14 – Things to look out for here are:

Though the handle shape and size, and the knife’s overall form are typical for this style of scandi-grind bushcraft knife, the extra ruggedness is clear from the longer blade and extra-thick blade stock.
The review sample is fitted with green linen micarta handles, nicely showing off the ergonomic shaping as contour lines in the layered micarta. Both handle rivets and the lanyard tube are brass. Somehow the blade steel looks thicker than the 4mm stock used, and really shows its robustness.
As delivered, the No. 14 has a full zero grind scandi edge.

The Lars Fält Slip Joint:

A good look round the Lars Fält Slip Joint belt pouch – Things to look out for here are:

Really this pouch is too good an option not to get. The beautifully crafted leather belt pouch (also using vegetable tanned leather), is a perfect companion to the Lars Fält Slip Joint. In this case it is a two piece construction, with the belt loop and flap being one piece which is riveted onto the stitched main pouch body. There is a welt allowing for a small drainage hole to complete it.

A good look round the Lars Fält Slip Joint – Things to look out for here are:

Casstrom’s folders (locking and non-locking) are only made with Curly Birch handles (no micarta option) which adds to their character and unique look for each knife. Liners, blade and back-spring are all stainless steel, and the remaining fittings, rivets, and lanyard tube, are brass. The sturdy blade has a large nail nick and a scandi grind; this time with a micro-bevel rather than full zero edge.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blades are made from A8 Mod and 14C28N steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

The No. 14’s Edge:

Once you move onto the next gallery with the Lars Fält Slip Joint’s Edge, you will see the clear difference between this knife’s zero grind edge, and when there is the extra bevel.
Casstrom advise you to add a micro-bevel if you intend to subject the No 14 to heavy chopping to help stabilise the edge and prevent chipping. Having given this zero grind edge a beating to intentionally see if it would chip, so far it has remained intact.

The Lars Fält Slip Joint’s Edge:

Yes, these are magnified, and are showing a 1mm scale, but even so I feel this is more than a micro-bevel, and more into the realms of a small edge bezel. The mini-bevel shown clearly here, when checked with the laser edge bevel protractor, is found to be convexed to a final edge angle of 60 degrees (30 DPS).

What is it like to use?

For this review the fixed blade and folder have been specifically partnered as an elegant traditional pairing. The only time you will catch me out and about with only one knife is if I’ve lost all but the one I still have, so I am always partnering up knives. This is to have different knives to better suit the various cutting tasks, which is more comfortable and helps you do more work with less effort. So, although specifically partnered as a Casstrom pairing for this review, it is a partnership I would happily make for function and looks, any day.
To best show their relative sizes, this gallery includes each knife in my XL glove sized hands. You can clearly see the extended blade of the No. 14 and versatility of the smaller folder.

In my overall edged tool use, I’ve been finding where the No. 14 best fits. With the blade grind and thickness, I’ve found it struggles with outright cross-grain chopping. That thicker blade and wide wedge grind retards the penetration of each strike, ending up almost bouncing back when using a chopping action, combined with a relatively slim handle and the No. 14 wasn’t working for me as an outright chopper. Where this limitation suddenly becomes a benefit is with splitting tasks. Batoning the knife into end grain to split, and it becomes a doddle. The extra blade length giving you more room to strike it, and the wedge-shaped grind being excellent at splitting along the grain.
If the diameter of the wood being struck with a chopping action is thin enough, the wedge effect of the thicker blade is no longer a problem, so cleaning up bigger branches by whipping off the side shoots works well with the No. 14’s longer and heavier blade; this type of chopping action does work well. It is more a matter of knowing the characteristics and working with them than trying to make the knife do something it is not good at.

Despite the suggestion of adding a micro-bevel to protect the edge, I wanted to test the toughness of Casstrom’s A8 Mod and heat treat, and despite going full whack on the blade, so far I’ve seen no edge chipping; a great outcome. I prefer the zero grind edge so as far as I am concerned I’ll take that risk and stick with it.

On the subject of zero grinds, I fully intend to take the Lars Fält edge to a zero grind, but as this will take a bit of work due to the mini-bevel on the factory edge, haven’t got it done in time for this article. This will be a super fine edge, especially compared to the factory bevel at 30 DPS, so I might end up putting the micro-bevel back on.

For a slip-joint the firmness of action makes a big difference to the experience. If the action is too stiff, it can be difficult to use and worrying to close. This Lars Fält is reassuringly firm in action, almost verging on too stiff. In fact having asked people less familiar with edged tools to try it, they struggled to open and close this knife safely (I had to intervene). Due to the stiffness, the nail nick doesn’t work for me and I have to use a pinch grip on the blade, carefully taking it to the half stop and readjusting my grip to fully open the blade. In use it has certainly instilled confidence that the blade will stay where it should (with correct technique of course). Being able to chose a UK EDC Legal slip-joint with a scandi grind is a really nice addition to my carry options, and one I can carry without having to worry if I should or shouldn’t have it on me.

Casstrom give you beautiful traditional designs made with sustainable materials, that look as good as the perform.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
No. 14 – Geometry not suited to cross-grain chopping.
No. 14 – Semi-stainless steel (needs some maintenance).
No. 14 – Handle too slim for chopping.
Lars Fält – More of a mini-bevel than micro-bevel
Lars Fält – Opening action too stiff for many people.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
No. 14 – Excellent for splitting wood.
No. 14 – Super tough steel.
No. 14 – Extra blade length makes batoning easier.
No. 14 – Zero-grind edge.
No. 14 – Quality leather sheath.
No. 14 – Sleek and easy to carry (despite longer blade).
Lars Fält – Very firm slip-joint action.
Lars Fält – Scandi grind in a folder.
Lars Fält – High quality leather belt pouch available.
Lars Fält – All brass fixings.
Lars Fält – Sturdy blade.
Lars Fält – EDC legal (where local laws allow).

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the No. 14:

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Lars Fält Slip Joint:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Puma Automesser (2024 update)

28 December, 2024

Now with a 2024 update, this is a look at a classic design dating back to 1956. Join me in a detailed review of the Puma “Automesser” model; but not quite as you know it, this is a new variant first made available in 2024. The Automesser model is a classic knife that has been proving capable of withstanding the most demanding use for over 60 years. Basically the same knife as Puma’s White Hunter (which was created in 1956), the Automesser uses the same blade but has a wooden handle and was introduced in the 1960s.

Despite loving them, there was always one small detail that prevented me embracing them fully – the gristle saw. After discussions with Puma, I’m thrilled to announce that this has now been updated as an option so you can choose! In this new variant, you can opt to have a full plain edge instead of having to have the gristle saw which has always been positioned at the exact point I most want a plain edge for precise carving and cutting.

The blade shape is carefully thought out to be capable of a wide range of tasks. The sturdy tip is robust enough to open cans or pry open crown bottle caps. A hatchet edge is ground into the back of the blade for rough work such as splitting firewood or chopping bones. The “Automesser” is equipped with plum wood scales, which are firmly riveted to the full tang, and this classic model is just as relevant today as it was when first produced.

What’s in the box?:

This exact knife was the first Automesser without the gristle saw so has been to various exhibitions, the last being IWA 2024. I believe this is the full normal presentation, but it is possible you might see something slightly different.
The sheathed Automesser is accompanied by a certification leaflet.
In the last photo in this gallery I have placed a White Hunter promotional paper flier, in the exact (and to scale) outline of this original model, to show the direct relation of the two models that share the same blade.

A good look round the Automesser Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

A classic leather sheath for a classic knife. The Automesser sheath has an unusual waisted design, gently following the shape of the blade. A braided leg tie cord is included and is fitted through a hollow rivet. Rivets are used to further strengthen the ends of the heavy duty stitching. Overall the sheath is constructed from a single piece of leather, but does include welts in the main part of the sheath for shaping and to protect the stitching from being cut when sheathing and unsheathing the knife. The main retention strap has a Puma branded press stud fastening.
You might also note the loop of braided cord in the belt loop; this is an additional retention option (when looped over the handle) which you can use for extra security or if the press stud has become loose.

A good look round the Puma Automesser – Things to look out for here are:

Puma’s blade design is a work-of-art, with a weight-forward reinforced tip and sweeping curves. Each new Puma also has a Rockwell sticker on the blade pointing to a small testing mark. This is the actual, individual, hardness check indentation, with each and every single blade tested to verify the hardness.
For the Automesser, Puma use Plum wood handle scales riveted to the full tang with brass rivets. A well defined grip hook is incorporated into the butt of the handle to make the chance of the knife slipping out of your hand very unlikely.
A half guard protects your fingers from slipping forward onto the blade, and allows the thumb to be positioned onto the thumb ramp that sits above the ricasso and heel of the cutting edge.
At the tip, the blade widens to put weight and strength where it gives most advantage. The swedge shape is flat enough for batoning, meaning you can chop into wood and then easily finish the split with a baton strike to the swedge. The main spine of the blade is given a ‘hatchet’ grind for chopping and splitting, but if you do use this, you can’t really baton onto the main cutting edge.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from 1.4116 steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

With all the curves on the Automesser, the factory edge varies quite a bit, so a few more images are included here just to give a better impression of this edge.

What is it like to use?

For a general purpose knife, the Automesser is a great fit. I take XL size gloves, and you can see here there is room between the guard and grip hook for me to also wear gloves (this is quite important – more on that later). Excellent grip provided by the jimping on the thumb ramp, make this super useful for finer work or when you need that extra pressure behind the cutting edge, the edge which is now a plain edge.

You’ll want to take this knife with you, it longs to be out in the woods. For me, with this full plain edge, I’ve now got the power and control where I work a blade most. Here, some seasoned oak is shaved with ease using the prime cutting zone of this hollow ground edge.

With an obvious weight-forward blade, though this broader tip also leans towards skinning tasks, it also gives the blade much more chopping power than another of the same length. Rather than the much softer green wood, I’m testing here on tough pallet wood. The first strike binding slightly, as you would expect with a hollow grind, but chips then start flying and the final strike splitting the board (mainly due to the board fixings not holding securely enough to support the chopping force).
You might notice I am wearing a glove for this cutting test. I found the handle grip hook a little sharp and when chopping, its corner was digging into my little finger, so I went with gloves. Once wearing a glove, the knife remained secure and I was comfortable too. For any hard chopping I would definitely want to wear gloves. Being hand made, the grip hook detail varies slightly and is more pronounced on this example than others I’ve seen.

Before I explain the final gallery, I wanted to mention a minor aspect of the sheath I’m not so keen on; the waisted design. Over time and after more sharpening sessions this is going to ease, but in the example I have, the blade jams once the wide tip reaches the narrowed waist. Particularly after giving the Automesser its first full re-sharpen, I can feel it bite into the welt and maybe even the main sheath itself as the blade bulge passes this narrowed area. The ‘bite’ is what worries me, and I then tend to back off and try again, so making the insertion and removal of the knife not smooth.
With some flattening out of the sheath at this point (as shown below I’m squeezing this area) and general wear, it is going to improve, but I would definitely have preferred a straight shape to the sheath. Perhaps not as elegant looking, but more reliable for dropping the knife back in and taking it out again. Of course this does mean the knife is less likely to fall out if the press stud is not secured, so this might be a plus to other people.

In this last gallery I wanted to show the additional knife retention system Puma include, which is unusual and not often seen. If you want to stabilise the handle when carrying it, or in case you accidentally damage, or cut off the retention strap, which is a danger on any sheath with this type of strap, or the press stud gets worn and no longer holds as securely as it used to, you have a backup option. I would consider this a backup as it can be a bit fiddly to use, but faced with possibly losing the knife, it is a great option.
On the front of the belt loop is a cord loop. You can pass this cord over the handle, twist it and bring it back over the handle, twist it and pass it back over the handle a final time.
Even with the retention strap not done up, the knife can then only come out of the sheath partially.

Puma’s Automesser, now with the option of a full plain edge, has made this much sought after classic blade all the more useful. I would always have been working around the gristle saw, and though this is a good feature for many, for me it always left this beautiful blade a second place – not any more. Classics are classics for good reason, and the Automesser/White Hunter aesthetics stand out along with proven functionality. This optional minor change lifts the usability of this knife to new levels and I can’t wait to carry this more.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Grip hook ‘bites’ a little when chopping.
Waisted sheath makes sheathing and unsheathing catchy.
Slightly blocky handle.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Timeless classic design.
Traditional leather sheath.
Excellent chopping power in a compact blade.
Blade has been individually hardness checked.
Materials used are steel, aluminium, brass, wood, cotton and leather (no plastic).
Full plain edge now available (from 2024).
Tried-and-tested design dating back to 1956.
Secondary retention strap/cord.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Light Review: Cyansky H3 and H5 (built-in Red/Green Filter)

26 October, 2021

Cyansky have come up with a novel way to solve the problem of having multiple colours of light in a single device without many of the compromises multi-LED or LED swapping lights might have. Most people will have come across, or used, colour filters to change the output of a white beam, but these are easily forgotten or lost. In the Cyansky H3 and H5 hunting models, glass filters are completely contained within the head of the light and the patented mechanism lets you drop a red or green filter in front of the XHP35 HI LED with a simple twist of the control ring – nothing else needed. The H3 and H5 use the increasingly popular 21700 cell to provide more power and runtime, but can run on an 18650 or 2 CR123s for added versatility.
Join me in the detailed examination of these two hunting lights and see how they perform.

Video Overview

Starting with a look over these light in a short video.

This is what arrived from Cyansky –

A good look round the H3 – Things to look out for here are:
As you may have already seen in the video, first up are the contents of the box. The H3 has a belt hanger (rather than full holster) providing a head-up belt carry option. Moving round the H3 and we get onto the mode switch and filter control ring at the base of the head. The tail-switch is semi-recessed, so allowing for tail standing, but with cutouts to ease access to the switch. The stainless bezel ring is wide and well finished. And then a first look at one of the filters.
The H3 comes with a 21700 with built-in USB-C charging. As it arrives there is a plastic insulator to prevent accidental discharge in the light.

A good look round the H5 – Things to look out for here are:
With the H5, the details are the same as for the H3, so I won’t repeat them, the difference is in the much larger head and reflector to give extra beam range.
One small observation which doesn’t affect function at all is that the mode switch has room to move about and twist, so might look a little ‘off’. This doesn’t affect function at all, and is only mentioned in case you see the button looking slightly twisted (this is the same for both models).

The Remote Switch and scope mount:
The supplied remote switch replaces the tail-cap of either the H3 or H5. The remote switches are in a rail-mount unit, and you have a momentary only switch, plus a forward clicky latching switch much like the original tail switch.
The scope mount is basic and easy to use, but I would not use it for heavy duty setups. For smaller calibers and for quick tool-less mounting it works well, and has enough stand off for the H3 or H5.

The Cyansky special feature – built-in colour filters:
Now for a set of images to just show the built-in filter change. I’ve used the H3 here as with the smaller head it is easier to see the filter better than with the H5. First no filter – with the filter holder just having a little bit of extra reflector round the base of the LED. Then part of the way to dropping a filter in place (this is NOT how you use it, just showing the filter holder disk rotating). Finally with the red and green glass filters shown in place over the LED.

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Stepping through these beamshots we have the H3 white beam, then H5 white beam, and as you go through the gallery it is H3 then H5 to show a direct comparison on each colour indoors and out.

Batteries and output:

The two models runs on 21700 cells. Logging the built-in USB-C charging gives these traces for the cell provided with each light.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

The Output table also includes the manufacturer specified lumens for comparison.

For the runtime trace, only the highest and lowest output colours were used (white and red) and all traces were run on maximum power.

The H3 and H5 in use

The first aspect to mention is how the H3 and H5 themselves compare. Actually this photo doesn’t show it accurately, but from the control ring to tail-cap, the H3 and H5 are identical. Not a surprise as they run on the same cell, have the some output specifications (apart from beam range), and have the same controls. So when holding them, they are the same for grip and controls.

With the larger head, and larger reflector, the H5 does have the edge in overall output, and it focuses the beam more for a longer reach. This gallery shows some longer distant photos on a golf course driving range. The H3 and H5 beams compared directly. The focus of the H5 is clearly visible at these longer ranges.

Using a zoom rifle scope this gallery has a set of images at the same exposure to show the gain in distance the H5 has over the H3. The magnification is set to 8x in this first gallery.
Important to note is that the distance markers the scope is aimed at are 250 yards, and that the H3 is still usable on white output, but struggles a bit at this range on the coloured output.
Also bear in mind that I am using a .22lr on this course, so 250 yards it beyond the limit I would take a shot.

Now taking the scope to 16x magnification. Although all the images here are the same exposure, I have had to use a longer exposure than for the 8x magnification. At this range and magnification the H3 was pushed too far. the H5 was still working well.
This was to test the limits for range and scope magnification. (At 32x magnification I could not get any photos to come out.)

All of the above proves the H3 and H5 work well on or off a rifle, and the coloured output filters, being built-in, are so convenient, allowing for changes of output colour with nothing but a turn of the control ring.
Although I normally use dedicated coloured lights (so the LED is red or green) due to being most efficient and having the best quality of beam, it means I need to carry entire replacement lights to change colour. There are also LED swapping lights on the market but these compromise the thermal path as the heat sink has to move. With the H3 and H5, the single LED has an optimal thermal path for heat sinking.
Using filters on any light does reduce efficiency as you are ‘wasting’ up to 93% of the actual output (in the case of the red 1306lm down to 94lm). This is the cost of the convenience of instant access to red green or white light.

As long as you have a suitable rail to mount the remote switch on, this switch works really well. By including both a dedicated momentary switch, and a latching forward-clicky switch that gives you momentary and permanent on options, you have all you might want. If you don’t have a rail in the right place, this switch won’t really work for you, so consider this before choosing.

If you normally use a dedicated coloured light, then do you switch to the H3 and H5? – if you ever have a need to change between red, white, and green, then the all-in-one solution these Cyansky lights give you allows you to stop carrying additional separate lights.
If you use, or would consider using colour filters, then the H3 and H5 are no-brainers. Why would you want external filters you can lose, that are often a plastic filter material, when you can have self-contained selectable glass filters?

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Using filters is not efficient compared to dedicated coloured lights.
The mode button can look a little twisted as it has a little too much room to move.
Basic belt hanger provided.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Glass filters are used.
Simple turn of the control ring to change filter colour.
21700 power (plus can use 18650 or CR123 if needed).
Supplied 21700 is USB-C chargeable.
Good choice of beam pattern between the H3 and longer reaching H5.

You can find the Official Cyansky Store Here, if you would like to get hold of these lights. (I have no affiliation and get no reward for you buying from this link).

Knife Review: Extrema Ratio T4000 C

5 August, 2021

Included in this review of the Extrema Ratio T4000 C, a compact classic Tanto with Extrema Ratio’s tactical sheath and handle, are a video with an overview and detailed measurements, galleries of the packaging, sheath, and knife, plus insights into how it is to use.

Let’s take a closer look.

The video tour of the T4000 C:
In case you haven’t seen the video overview and vital statistics of the T4000 C on Tactical Review’s youtube channel, here it is. This video covers a quick tour of the knife and sheath and a detailed technical measurements section.

A few more details:

What’s in the box?:
For the T4000 C, it ‘just fits’ into the box. The usual Extrema Ratio high quality two-part box is used.

A good look round the T4000 C’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
Even though ‘Compact’ the sheath manages to fit in a lot of features and details. Solidly constructed and made to fit the compact knife perfectly. On the back is a set of PALS/MOLLE webbing and strap, with the front also having webbing for mounting a small pouch or other item. A gap in the welt at the base of the sheath allows for free flowing drainage. To comfortably accommodate the thick blade stock the welt is similarly sized.
A strong double press-stud retaining strap wraps the handle and keeps the knife securely in place. you can adjust the position of the retaining strap as it is held in place with a Velcro adjusting system. There is an anti-catch smooth plastic insert backing the sheath to prevent wear and damage to the back of the sheath when sheathing the knife.
With there not being a specific belt loop, using the MOLLE strap, you can make your own belt loop to fit the size of the belt.

The T4000 C knife itself:
From the first view of the satin blade emerging you get drawn into admiring the knife. The beautifully executed fuller on each side of the blade enhances the lines. Extrema Ratio’s distinctive grip design provides an index finger groove to give a strong grip. A single bolt holds the rubber grip in place on the full tang, that extends through to a striker and lanyard hole. Sharpening choils – what is your take? – well the T4000 C does not have one, so the sharp edge stops just short of the plunge line. Also note a front lanyard hole, allowing you to fit a cord to both the front or rear of the handle.
Being the compact model, the handle length sits just within the hand (I take XL size gloves).

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

There is a lot to take in here. These measurements are shown in the video.

What is it like to use?

It’s a tanto – nice – I always like a tanto. There is a practicality of having an almost chisel-like tip and what I refer to as the secondary point (where the tip and main edge meet) for various cuts instead of using the actual tip of the knife.
The elegant lines are simply a pleasure to look at as well as to use, and being the compact knife class from Extrema Ratio this is a really useful day to day blade. Something you are more likely to pick up and use, as it is very practical.

I knew after measuring the factor edge I would want to re-profile the edge bevel, 25DPS is too wide/heavy for a small knife, even 20DPS would be more than I want. But before doing this, with the sharpness measuring a respectable 281 BESS average I wanted to see how it fared. It would not shave arm hair with this edge, however…

Factory edge put to some minor fire prep tasks. The wood here is fully seasoned so much harder than any green wood. Kindling and feather sticks, perfectly good with these little pieces of wood, using the edge out of the box.

After a bit of use, it was time to change the edge bevel to 17DPS and bring that cutting edge a bit closer to the plunge line. As always, putting your own edge on a knife makes all the difference, and now it sings along shaving and slicing ferociously.

Extrema Ratio are good at Tantos, and this is one of their best. The thinned down blade thickness with full flat grind give it great slicing power, yet the blade still starts at 4.1mm at the spine, so is plenty strong for heavy use. Go back and look at the blade in the video as the light plays off it and you really appreciate the qualities of the T4000 C.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
No sharpening choil – personal preference.
Retaining strap is a bit bulky for a compact knife.
Factory edge usable but a bit ‘heavy’.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Build quality and finish.
Practical well designed sheath.
‘Handy’ size being a ‘C’ Compact model.
Very comfortable grip.
Front and rear lanyard points.
Elegant blade profile with fullers.
Reliable steel choice.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

BladeForums – Knife Reviews (US based Forum for Knife Discussion)

CandlePowerForums – Knife Reviews Section (Largest and Friendliest Flashlight Community Forum)

Knife Review: Extrema Ratio Sethlans

25 March, 2021

Back when it was launched, I took a ‘first look’ at the Extrema Ratio Sethlans knife. Now, after being able to use the Sethlans for several months I can bring you this much more detailed look at the knife and its comprehensive equipped sheath.
The Sethlans is designed to be used for bushcraft, survival, and as a backup blade, so is also ideally suited for prepping, but I can tell you know, you are definitely going to want to use this knife.

The ‘First Look’ Video:
Taking you back to the initial impressions and overview of the Sethlans.

What’s in the box?:
Extrema Ratio knives always come in a nice robust presentation box.

A good look round the Sethlans Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

A good sheath can make or break a knife, as access to, and ease of carry, affect your experience of using the knife. The Sethlans has one of the most comprehensively equipped and well thought out sheaths of any knife I have used, and there are so many details to show, it is a major part of this review. The following gallery takes you through the construction, assembly methods and components of the sheath, including the sharpening stone pouch and fire-steel that come with the Sethlans.
This sheath can be fully disassembled and reassembled either as a left-handed setup (It comes as a right-handed setup), or stripped down to the very basics. You can run this sheath as just the Kydex sheath with no hanger, or the Kydex sheath with belt hanger/Molle mount. Super flexible design.

The Knife:
This gallery seems rather small after the sheath rundown. The Sethlans is a simple and elegant design that manages to incorporate the distinctive Extrema Ratio finger grip styling and take this feature yet further into the shaping of the actual tang within the grips where the metal is thinned down in the finger grip section of tang to mirror the grip shaping. Very nice touch.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

What is it like to use?
Being an Extrema Ratio knife, the Sethlans seems to be both typically characteristic of the brand, yet at the same time completely different and surprising. It also has me in a dilemma about how to set it up thanks to the super flexible sheath design.
If I were packing in a ‘prepping’ style, I would leave the full Sethlans sheath setup with the sharpening stone and fire-steel, as like this you have all the bases covered. However as I am enjoying using this knife, and with the sheath pared down to the minimum, for me it is a much nicer every day carry. In this setup, I remove the pouch with sharpening stone, the fire-steel, and the handle retaining strap. This leaves the knife securely in the Kydex holder on a belt loop hanger.
The knife immediately feels at ease in the hand, comfortable, well balanced and agile. The grip is relatively slim for an Extrema Ratio knife, and this adds to the mobility and control for fine work.
Thanks to the thick full tang, the weight feels like it is in your hand, and the knife will just sit balanced on your first two fingers without trying to fall forwards.

The way the edge sweeps up towards the tip, gives you something similar to a chisel that you can use for nice controlled cuts by pushing down into whatever you are cutting. This same shape also works well as a skinner.
Areas of deep, wide and grippy jimping make for a very stable hold, and there is also the Extrema Ratio distinctive finger groove I have always loved.

Between the thumb jimping and swedge is a section of the blade spine that has been given a nice crisp edge, just right for scraping sparks off the big fire-steel. It does this very nicely indeed…

Fire-steels always make a mess that looks much worse than it is. The Sethlans cleans up perfectly after a fire lighting session, and the photo below, after a clean, left a knife looking as good a new. Use it!

Despite the significantly thick blade tang, the blade itself has a thickness of 3.9mm combined with a depth of 37.5mm, and this makes for a 5 degree primary bevel angle. The figures might be a bit of a yawn, but what it means is a blade that slices really well thanks to the small bevel angle – yet at a maximum thickness at the spine of nearly 4mm, is still a good strong blade without feeling heavy.

Extrema Ratio have put a lot of effort into the complex shaping of the blade, tang and handle fittings, and it shows. These design details make the Sethlans one of those knives you pick up and virtually forget about while using it, as the tool becomes an extension of your hand. You focus on the job, not the tool.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
The Kydex sheath has a bit of side to side play due to the strap layout.
Reconfiguring for left-handed use requires full disassembly of straps and sheath bolts.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Excellent balance of the knife.
Comprehensively equipped sheath.
Sheath can be reconfigured for left-handed use.
Modular sheath allows user to choose favourite setup.
Very good handling and grip.
Strong but slicey blade profile.
Easily strikes showers of sparks from a fire-steel.
Compact package.
Secure blade retention, yet easy to remove using thumb pressure.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

BladeForums – Knife Reviews (US based Forum for Knife Discussion)

CandlePowerForums – Knife Reviews Section (Largest and Friendliest Flashlight Community Forum)

Light Review: Fenix TK30 White Laser LEP

4 October, 2020

LEP, what is LEP? Laser Excited Phosphor, the new super thrower with a highly focused beam; and I was certainly excited to try out the Fenix (see MyFenix in the UK) TK30 White LEP light. I first came across the concept of LEP to be used as a long range tactical scope illuminator for snipers, and there is no doubt this is a highly specialised type of light. For long range scope illumination it is outstanding, and for the general lighting enthusiast it is a lightsaber, with near laser beam like projection.

First up is a video which covers the basics of a look round the TK30 and some outdoor video to show the incredible beam. This page has a lot more detail including the measured output figures, runtime graph and photos of the beam.

What is in the box?:

A good look round the TK30 – Things to look out for here are:
The TK30 comes with an excellent belt holster, and a 21700 cell that has a built-in USB-C charging port (in the cell, not the TK30).

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Yes, this really is the beam, not a mistake. There is a small bright spot with all 500lm (422lm measured) in it.

Batteries and output:

The runs on the included 5000mAh 21700 cell.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Peak Beam intensity measured 469000lx @1m giving a beam range of 1370m!!!

In this gallery are measurements of the built-in USB-C charging for the 5000mAh cell, and the runtime graph (with active cooling).

Troubleshooting

This section is included to mention any minor niggles I come across during testing, in case the information helps anyone else.

It was noted that when the low battery warning is shown with the flashing indicator in the side switch, this makes the main beam output flicker. More on this is included in the ‘in use’ section below.

As per the description of this section, this information is provided in case anyone else finds a similar ‘issue’ that might be fixed in the same way.

The TK30 in use
Let’s first just get the minor quibble out of the way with the output that starts to flicker when the low battery warning comes on. It is shown in the marked copy of the runtime graph and only affects the very last part of the run. I personally take this as a point of the output being so near the end and not able to maintain the full output, that I would want to recharge the battery anyway at this point.

In some ways, the visible beam flickering is only further indication the battery is too low, so is not a problem so much as a ‘feature’. Moving on…

So the operation of the TK30 is just fine, a tail-switch, and a side switch for the mode. Easy and straightforward to use.

Although the high beam output is only in the region of 500lm, I would say that the heat generated and felt at the head of the TK30 is more than I would expect for a 500lm light. But this is no ordinary 500lm light. Inside the head is a UV Laser module that is then illuminating a phosphor surface to produce the beam, so overall it is not as efficient as a typical LED emitter and so generates more heat.

Swapping from the included 21700 cell to an 18650 (with adapter), the runtime is much less, and the lower efficiency of LEP to LED becomes even more obvious. A trade off in efficiency in exchange for a beam unlike any other.

Just take a look through this gallery. (I have used the Moon to cheat with a couple of these, it’s not quite that amazing.)

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Not really a ‘con’, but a warning – this is a specialist light and is not suitable for general use due to the tiny hotspot and no spill.
Shorter runtime compared to an LED light.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Super focused beam with 1370m throw!
LEP – Laser Excited Phosphor.
USB-C rechargeable 21700 cell and cable included.
Very good belt holster.
It’s just superb fun to have a lightsaber / white laser.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

As well as the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page, please consider visiting one of the following to start/join in any discussion.

CandlePowerForums – Flashlight Reviews Section (Largest and Friendliest Flashlight Community Forum)

Light Review: Weltool 365nm UV/Red lights – M2-OL, M2-BF and M7-RD

13 September, 2020

For my first Weltool review I’m taking a look at some specialist lighting options; no white light here, instead it’s two lights with 365nm UV output, and one pure Red 625nm output. The models on test are the M2-OL (flood beam 365nm UV light kit with charger and cell), M2-BF (pure 365nm UV output, light only), and the M7-RD (625nm Red output with USB chargeable cell).

What is in the box?:
A quick overview of the three models and how they arrived. The M2-OL also includes a single-bay USB charger in the box.

A good look round all three of the models – Things to look out for here are:
The first one to be unpacked was the M2-OL. All three use a very similar chassis, with minor differences. For the two that included 18650 cells, each had an insulator disk to prevent accidental switch-on during transit. The lens/bezel arrangement is different in each of the three.

Taking a more detailed look at the charger and cells:
The M2-OL included a flat top 18650 with USB charger, and the M7-RD came with a USB rechargeable 18650 (no cell was included with the M2-BF). After looking over the set of contacts and the image of the flat top cell, you can also see a side shot of the cell in the charger where the negative contact end is raised slightly. This was required for the positive contact to touch the positive terminal in the charger.

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

In this set of beamshots, the only outdoor beamshot is of the M7-RD red beam, as the UV lights do not show up anything significant for this type of image. However, where it gets interesting is indoors. For this gallery, the first image is for the M2-OL, which is not pure UV, having some blue light. The next image is at the exact same exposure with the M2-BF that has a filtered output so it is pure 365nm UV light, and the only visible features are those fluorescing in the UV. The last two are of the red beam of the M7-RD.

Special beam galleries:
To properly appreciate the output of these dedicated UV lights the next two galleries are needed. In the first gallery are two sets of images, each set of the same scene, starting with a control image using a warm white light, then the M2-OL, and finally the M2-BF. The results are very clear.

In this second special gallery are two views from a pebble beach, where the confusion of the stones easily hides details that UV can reveal. In this gallery, a control warm white light is used, and the M2-BF. The last image shows bank note security features and the glow around the spots on a banana skin.

Batteries and output:

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

Included here are two charging traces, first for the USB charger and 18650 cell that came with the M2-OL, and second for the USB chargeable 18650 that came with the M7-RD. Lastly is a runtime graph for the M7-RD (which should be showing the actual lumen output), and the M2-BF showing a simulated output. The integrating sphere sensor does NOT measure UV, so in this run for the M2-BF I included fluorescent material inside the sphere to convert some of the UV to visible light. Doing this allows for a ‘relative’ output trace over the full runtime, but is not a measurement of actual lumens.

Troubleshooting

This section is included to mention any minor niggles I come across during testing, in case the information helps anyone else.

As mentioned in the previous section “Taking a more detailed look at the charger and cells:” The flat-top cell supplied with the M2-OL would not charge in the supplied USB charger. This was because the plastic wrap on the cell left the positive terminal slightly recessed. To allow charging the negative end of the cell just needed to be raised slightly.

Not a big issue and easily rectified. I mention it here in case you find the same and need to use this simple fix.

As per the description of this section, this information is provided in case anyone else finds a similar ‘issue’ that might be fixed in the same way.

The M2-OL, M2-BF and M7-RD in use:

These are specialist lights, so really shine (pun intended) in specific situations. If you are an enthusiast in portable lighting, then you might not really ‘need’ these lights, but they will be great fun to add to your line up.
If you are in need of them for their special purposes, then you have some really strong performers to choose from. Before getting to the model-specific comments, a quick look at their sizes; I am slightly surprised there is so much variation when based on the same body and switch, but each of these three is a different length, and has been fine tuned to the LED and lens configuration. All three lights have two output levels selectable with a quick on-off-on via the forward-clicky tailcap switch; all three start on low if left off for 2s or more.

M7-RD RED: Weltool describe the M7-RD as a choice that won’t affect dark adapted eyes. For this I partly disagree; yes, red light does have less of an effect on your night vision, but the M7-RD is very bright, and will still affect your night vision. Use this at a star party (if that is your bag) and you will be shouted at. However, I find it particularly useful for hunting. The quarry I often target does not appear to react to pure red light, and this means I can use a good brightness red light to help me, instead of a super dim light where I’d struggle to see (especially when using a gun light that is much brighter).

M2-OL UV: After looking at the special beamshot galleries, the M2-OL, might seem a lesser choice for a UV light, but the mix of UV with some blue light has a place. It means that you have some ‘supporting’ light to see other features in the scene even if they don’t react to UV. This mix of light is helpful and gives a different view of the area.

M2-BF: This is the most specialist of the three, as there is a filter lens to remove all but the pure 365nm UV light. If there is nothing to fluoresce, you won’t see anything. In the photo below, the M2-BF is on, but apart from the glow of the paper surface in front of the lens, you might not know it was on at all.
With this super pure UV you can reveal hidden details, and often show things you might rather you hadn’t seen! The M2-BF is the ultimate in true ‘black light’ as long as you don’t need any visible light mixed in.

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Minor issue with the USB charger and flat-top cell.
M7-RD’s Red output is too bright for saving night vision.
They are 18650 powered only, so no option for primary cells.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Great fit and finish for all models.
Choice of different beam profiles to suit your needs.
M7-RD has a USB chargeable cell that does not need a separate charger.
M2-OL includes a full kit including a cell and charger.
M2-BF outputs pure filtered 365nm ‘black light’.

Light Review: Nextorch T53 Hunting Kit

29 March, 2020

NEXTORCH have been working on LED swapping lights for some time, lights that maintain full beam quality; the Dual-Light models were the first of these that I used (like the P5G, P5R etc.). This Light Review is for the T53 hunting light set, that not only has a LED swapping triple colour output mechanism, but also a mount and remote switch.
The crucial difference with NEXTORCH’s lights and their LED swapping mechanism being there is no compromise of the reflector or beam. Typically, multiple LED light have the LEDs set into fixed, off-centre, positions in the reflector, compromising the beam. Instead the T53’s chosen LED sits at the reflector’s focal point, and is completely swapped for another LED positioned exactly at the reflector’s focal point… keep reading for all the details.

What is in the box?:

A first look at what the T53 set includes, which is all well presented in the box. Everything you need to use it is included.

A good look round the T53 Set – Things to look out for here are:

The images take you through the major components and the details of each of these. Starting with the clamp-mount to hold the T53 in various positions on the gun of your choice. It uses a cam-lever to lock into place. The mount also has a couple of small rail mount section so you can add extra accessories. A nice remote switch has both latching and momentary buttons on it, plus hook/loop straps for fitting to the gun.
There is a small socket in the tail of the T53 which takes either the charging cable or remote switch. With the appropriate plug in place, it can be rotated to lock it in the socket.

Taking a more detailed look at the LED switching:

This is the magic of the T53 (and other NEXTORCH LED swapping lights). The LED at the focal point of the reflector can be completely swapped for another by rotating the dial on the side of the light’s head.

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

In this gallery all exposure settings for the set of indoor or outdoor shots are the same.

Batteries and output:

The T53 runs on a supplied 2600mAh 18650 cell.

To measure actual output, I built an integrating sphere. See here for more detail. The sensor registers visible light only (so Infra-Red and Ultra-Violet will not be measured).

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

There is parasitic drain – this is included in the table of measurements.

Included in the gallery are the USB charging trace, a table of measured results, and the runtime trace for maximum white output (plus zoomed-in graph for the start).

The T53 Set in use

Let’s start with the T53 on its own. NEXTORCH lights always have a nice solid feel, and the T53 is built a little bigger to accommodate the LED swapping mechanism. Just as a single 18650 powered light, it is a little chunky and heavier than if it were only a single LED light. The tail-switch is not what I would term ‘tactical’ as it does not stand proud, making it a struggle to press far enough in to latch on if wearing gloves. This is not an issue at all in normal use, and certainly not a factor when moving to the remote switch.

Charging can be carried out internally using the supplied cable, and when doing so, in this example charged to a healthy 4.18V. Although not quite to 100% capacity, I much prefer this slight lower than 4.20V level as it is better for the life of the cell.

Before moving onto the gun mounting, a quick note on the tail-switch. This functions the same whether the remote switch is connected or not, in fact the two switches overlay their functions.
The tail-switch, if half-pressed, first turns on on high. If double-tapped you get strobe. However if you fully press to click it on, a subsequent half-press changes to low output.
The remote-switch, has a latching switch and a momentary switch. Either switch only gives access to high however many times you tap, you only get high.
Now, for example, if you had the tail-switch strobing, and then use the remote switch it changes to high, and once you turn the remote switch off it goes back to strobe. This is how they overlap each other.

In the next gallery the T53 is mounted onto a Chiappa Little Badger. More often than not, lights like the T53 are described as scope mounted. This is a personal bugbear as I dislike the way the spill light illuminates the gun and this creates a gap in the beam. So I will always, if possible, mount the light to the front of the gun to ensure none of the beam hits the gun. Here I’ve been able to fit the mount to the SAK sound moderator – it fitted, but was getting near the limit.

When fitting the mount, the design makes it very quick and simple to secure. The main adjustment is with the central screw and once snug, locking down the cam latch clamps it nice and tight.

Thanks to the hook/loop straps the remote switch fitted on easily, but larger stocks might prove too large for the straps.

The galley includes actual through-scope views.

For hunting use, I never looked back once I started using coloured lights, the difference is literally like night and day. There is also a massive difference between filters fitted to white lights, and pure colour LEDs, both in quality and brightness. I have no need to change colours on one outing as the gun is chosen for the quarry, and the colour to match the quarry. In theory I then don’t need the ability to change colour in one light. That said, it means the one light is suitable for all setups, and you won’t bring the wrong one.

Target illumination is very good with all colours, and something I found very useful was the ability to set the low output with the tail-switch and ramp it up to high as needed with the remote switch, then back to low again.

This is a very accomplished package from NEXTORCH.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Tail-switch a little too recessed.
Remote switch straps may be too short for some guns.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
LED ‘swapping’ mechanism.
Three colour output, Red, Green and White.
Perfect beam for all colours.
Bright ‘through-scope’ view.
Built in USB charging (needing supplied cable).
Remote switch has momentary and latching switches.
Mount clamp is very secure.
Full kit provided, nothing else required (apart from a gun).

 

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Knife Review: Kizlyar Supreme – Sturm and Survivalist X

26 January, 2020

This review features two knives from Kizlyar Supreme, the Sturm and Survivalist X. I have a soft spot for hollow handle knives, and am always on the lookout for a properly made one that can be used without worrying it will come apart; this is what drew me to the Survivalist X hollow handle knife. To partner this we have the Sturm, a smaller general purpose blade, and for this review in a high hardness steel, PGK from German steel makers Lohmann.

As soon as I came across knife makers Kizlyar Supreme I was impressed with the range of great designs and was very keen to try out some of their knives. Kizlyar Supreme launched as a company in 2011 thanks to the enthusiasm and dedication of its founders, with the intention to provide great designs using high grade materials yet remain affordable.

A few more details:

What’s in the box?:

The boxed Sturm and Survivalist X.

A good look round the Sturm’s sheath – Things to look out for here are:

I’d go so far as to call the Sturm’s sheath a ‘technical mounting platform’ due to its mass of design features and practicality. As you will see in the photos, the sheath is indexed so the blade will only fit into it one way. Though not initially appearing ambidextrous, if the four bolts holding the sheath to the mount are removed, you can flip the sheath over to make it left-handed. While doing this you can also swap from vertical to horizontal carry by turning the mount 90 degrees.

A good look round the Sturm – Things to look out for here are:

The Sturm uses a handle Kizlyar Supreme use for several other models. The blade is a convenient size for most tasks and keeps thing simple with a full flat grind.

A good look round the Survivalist X’s sheath – Things to look out for here are:

Well, in terms of preparedness, even the Survivalist X’s sheath is ready for anything. Packed with features and utility it is certainly comprehensively equipped.

A good look round the Survivalist X – Things to look out for here are:

The survivalist X is a substantial knife, there is no missing its presence, and the hollow handle gives it a particular look and feel.

The Survivalist X’s hollow handle and capsule:

I’m sure we have all had those cheap and cheerful versions and found them not to live up to expectation, but be prepared for something entirely different.
Kizlyar Supreme have ensured there is the maximum amount of metal in the handle tube and blade tang to keep the strength very high. The view into the end of the handle shows the blade tang which comes right up to the base of the capsule, absolutely as far as possible.
Also shown are the capsule contents; fishing kit, wire, sewing kit with safety pin, matches and striker and plasters.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:

For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The Sturm’s blade is made from Lohmann PGK steel, and the Survivalist X’s from D2.

On the day it was measured, the Sturm in PGK steel had the best SET test result I had yet measured. The lower the Series 2 degradation (S2) figure is, the more resistant the edge is to being rolled. The recovery strop process shows if the edge was permanently damaged or chipped, or can be fully recovered.
Here you can see the PGK outperforming the D2 steel by a good margin. This is not saying the D2 is bad, in fact the D2 is good, just that the PGK performs better in this test.

Being a new steel to me, I checked the composition which is listed as:
Name – Lohmann PGK
Base – Fe
C – 1.2
Cr – 8.5
Mo – 1.5
V – 2
W – 1.5
Si – 1

What is it like to use?

Picking up the Sturm was like finding an old pair of shoes that fit perfectly. No adjusting or finding my way with this knife, instead just getting on with whatever task. The size of the Sturm is ideal for most of the general cutting tasks you might want a fixed blade for.

The lips of the sheath had arrived with some rough edges from the moulding and these were becoming annoying. Once trimmed off, the feel was transformed as when unsheathing the knife you push onto the lips with your thumb. The retention is a bit strong to just pull the Sturm out without the thumb lever, but is possible when you really have to.

Hollow handles – are they a love or hate thing? If the knife is not well made and the blade comes off, then clearly hate, but if the handle and blade are well fixed and don’t come loose, what then? The Survivalist X has had a hard time from me, heavy chopping and into hard woods; I wanted to see if I could get the blade to shift in the handle – so far not a hint of movement.

So, the Survivalist X’s blade/handle construction is solid and doesn’t look like a weak point at all, then we have the fact it is a round handle. True, a round handle is not the best as it lacks indexing for the grip. You do have to keep an eye on the blade orientation, and in heavy chopping it can spin and twist a little. Nothing unexpected there. The knurling gives good grip without being too abrasive. It is actually not a bad thing that you have to pay attention to the knife and your grip, and I’ve not found this to be a problem.

The Survivalist X is a heavy hitter, and is heavy to carry, so take it when you want a big camp knife, or don’t want to carry a hatchet as well as a knife.

One questionable feature for me is the bone cracker wedge on the Survivalist X’s spine; it is like nothing I’ve seen before. A big knife like this is also good for batoning larger logs, but this wedge damages the baton more than a straight spine. How often do you need to crack bones instead of cutting at the joints? Not sure about that.

I must also mention that the factory edges on both knifes were superb, with good angles, and in hard steels – though not essential, it is very nice to have super sharp blades out of the box.

The Sturm has several different steel choices and the PGK steel has been a really interesting one. I thought I had an issue when cutting packing straps as the edge seemed to dull straight away when cutting some of these, yet as you have seen before, it’s structural edge testing results very very good. I decided to change the edge angle, and it was very slow to sharpen on a belt, showing how hard and wear resistant the PGK steel is. After this reprofile I haven’t had anything similar happen, so it appears to have been an anomaly.

I also can’t quite work it out as a steel, as when I examine the edge for defects, I see reflections that would normally indicate edge damage, yet the Sturm remains sharp and cuts well, defying the normal observations. The bottom line here is that despite what I think I see, the Sturm keeps cutting.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Sturm – The sheath lips needed mould flashings to be trimmed.
Survivalist X – For a ‘Survival’ Knife I’d prefer a more stainless steel than D2.
Survivalist X – The exposed press-studs scratch the handle.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Sturm – Excellent handle comfort and indexing.
Sturm – Blade geometry works well.
Sturm – Range of steels to choose from.
Sturm – Hugely versatile sheath and mounting options.
Sturm – Secure, strap-free knife retention.
Sturm – Great general purpose size.
Sturm – The PGK steel just seems to keep on cutting.
Survivalist X – Very strong construction.
Survivalist X – Big hollow-handled knife – what is not to like?
Survivalist X – Fantastic chopping performance.
Survivalist X – Feature-packed sheath with lots of options.
Both – Very good factory edges.

 

Discussing the Review:

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BladeForums – Knife Reviews (US based Forum for Knife Discussion)

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The BESS Exchange – A forum discussing technical aspects of sharpness and truly understanding your sharpening process.