nitecore Archives - TACTICAL REVIEWS

Light Review: Nitecore EDC33 and EDC35

28 September, 2024

This is a detailed review of the Nitecore EDC33 and EDC35, two new Tactical EDC torches / flashlights featuring the NiteLab UHi 20 Max LED and UHi 40 MAX LED respectively. Each are powered by a built-in li-ion battery with USB-C charging port under a rotary cover.

The UHi MAX LEDs combine a small but high-intensity main core with 8 auxiliary cores arrayed together into a single LED, offering long-range coverage, extreme brightness and the ability to seamlessly switch between spot and floodlight.

The “Lumin Shield” mode blasts an stunning 4000/5000 lumen maximum output wall of light.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

What is in the box?:
With the EDC35 also having a belt holster, the unboxing is a bit different as the EDC35 arrives in the holster. The EDC33 doesn’t have a holster and comes in a slide out plastic tray.

A good look round the EDC35 belt holster – Things to look out for here are:
This is a semi-rigid type of holster, so when empty is the same size as when the light is inside it. There is a magnetically secured flip-top opening which hinges towards the belt loop.
A D-loop hanger, fixed belt loop and Velcro closing belt loop provide options for mounting/carry.

A good look round the EDC33 – Things to look out for here are:
The smaller of the two models on test here (based around an 18650), the EDC33 is a straight tube layout with generous size pocket clip. A set of four battery charge level indicator lights sit just beneath the rotating USB-C port cover. The EDC33 has a sliding toggle lockout switch and a two-stage forward-clicky tailcap switch. The EDC33 uses a NiteLab UHi 20 Max LED.

A good look round the EDC35 – Things to look out for here are:
The larger of the two models on test here (based around an 21700), the EDC35 has a head larger than the body to allow for a bigger reflector to accommodate the higher output, and also includes a generous size pocket clip. A set of four battery charge level indicator lights sit just beneath the rotating USB-C port cover. The EDC35 also has a sliding toggle lockout switch and a two-stage forward-clicky tailcap switch. The EDC35 uses a NiteLab UHi 40 Max LED.

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Exposures are not identical throughout the galleries – images are intended to show the beam shape and impression of what you see, rather than a brightness measurement.

EDC33 Beamshots:
Both for indoor and outdoor, the spot beam is shown first, then the ‘Lumin Shield’ beam.

EDC35 Beamshots:
Both for indoor and outdoor, the spot beam is shown first, then the ‘Lumin Shield’ beam.

EDC33 and EDC35 Beamshots:
This gallery uses all the previous images but groups them into comparative pairings for the EDC33 then EDC35 with each type of beam. As before this is the spot beam shown first followed by the ‘Lumin Shield’ beam for the indoor images and then the outdoor.

Batteries and output:

The EDC33 has a built-in 18650 cell and the EDC35 a built-in 21700 cell. Parasitic drain cannot be measured.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

This table compares measured and specified outputs for each mode.

Runtime traces for each model on ‘High’.

Also included in the gallery are the charging capacity measurements after recharging from the end of the runtime testing (show in Wh and Ah).

The EDC33 and EDC35 in use

These lights are BRIGHT! The Lumin Shield does exactly what it promises and blasts a wall of light. The power output is made all the more obvious by the heat generated in the head of each light, especially the smaller EDC33 where the head heats up very fast using Lumin Shield. The EDC35 has more mass and the heating is less immediate which does give you more working time with this mode before it becomes uncomfortable in a bare hand.

This leads me to suggest the main choice between the EDC33 and EDC35, with this being how much you want to use the higher or maximum outputs. The EDC35 has more mass to manage the heat produced, and larger battery capacity.

The next gallery shows the size of each in the hand (I take XL size gloves). In terms of weight, the EDC35 is 150% the weight of the EDC33, plus the holster and general bulk. This weight and size penalty gives you a longer runtime and ability to make use of the higher output for longer.

The choice of more comfortable use of maximum output, or ease of carry will then guide you to the right choice for you.

Though the EDC33 heats up fast on Lumin Shield, it does still give you a wall of light in a compact package, so as a backup this is extremely capable.

For my own use, I use lower outputs about 90% of the time, so this leads me to one of my main observations about using the EDC33 and EDC35, and that is it takes al lot of practice to reliably avoid triggering the Lumin Shield when in fact you really wanted the ultra-low output. Linger just a little too long on the tail switch, and instead of 5 lumen you get 4000 or 5000, or while trying to avoid that you fail to turn it on at all.

Clearly, the ‘Lumin Shield’ wall of light is the headline tactical defence function of these lights, and for that they are excellent. This mode is easily activated (almost too easily) and in the half-lockout is the mode still available. Take this as the primary function and you can then consider the lower outputs as a bonus.

To best manage the accidental activation of the Lumin Shield, I make sure to briefly close my eyes when trying to activate the daily modes, especially when I want the ultra low, and if I do accidentally unleash the 5000 lumens I don’t getting the full effect as I will have let go of the switch before I open my eyes.

Likewise for switching off when using lower modes, I don’t touch the tailcap, instead using the lockout switch to turn it off completely safely, as this will definitely not activate any other output mode.

Making the minor adjustments to how you operate the EDC33 and EDC35 allows the lower mode use to be smoother and not jar, and you still have the potential defensive wall of light ready to go if needed.

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Easy to accidentally activate the Lumin Shield.
Lowest mode still not that low at 5 Lm.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Stunning ‘Wall of Light’ with Lumin Shield mode.
Secure grip pattern.
USB-C built-in charging port.
EDC35 has an extra large capacity 21700 cell.
EDC33 provides a smaller lighter option but with near 4000lm output.
Ultra-High output from the UHi 20 Max and UHi 40 MAX LEDs.
Safety sensor to detect obstructions.

Gear Review: Nitecore EMR05 EMR06

25 March, 2024

This detailed review of the Nitecore EMR05 and EMR06 portable mosquito repellers, includes all aspects of their performance and function.

The EMR05 and EMR06 are two new devices from Nitecore giving you ultra-portable insect repellers with the lowest weight-cost possible.

The EMR06 has a built-in battery, so is self-powered, and the EMR05 is smaller still, as it needs external power from a power bank.

If, like me, you protect everyone else from mosquito bites, by being the one the mosquitoes make a beeline for, then you may be as pleased as I am to find the new Nitecore EMR05 and EMR06 portable insect repeller devices.

Making his second appearance below is “Stoppo”, Tactical Reviews’ “don’t do that” guardian. Mosquitos beware, armed with the EMR units Stoppo says NO!

With the EMR05 and EMR06 bringing you ultra-portable versions of insect repellers, you can see just how much smaller they are compared to the EMR10 and EMR20.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

A few more details:

What’s in the box?:
Both the EMR05 and EMR06 are covered here. Each has a USB-C cable, wrist lanyard, and some repellent mats.

A good look round the EMR05 – Things to look out for here are:
The EMR05 is keeping things to the bare minimum. A power switch with indicator light, the slot for the repellent mat, USB-C port for power and a mounting system. Nitecore’s MOLLE mount system is really neat and effective.

A good look round the EMR06 – Things to look out for here are:
The EMR06 introduces a built-in battery while otherwise similarly keeping things to the bare minimum. A power switch, indicator light, the slot for the repellent mat, USB-C port for charging and a mounting system. Nitecore’s MOLLE mount system is the same here, so you can see the increased size of the EMR06, yet it is still very compact.

Technical Testing:
Both EMR units were setup with a modified repellent mat that held a thermocouple probe under it and positioned over the heating plate. This logged the temperature during the run.

Some notes on the graphs:
The EMR06 was logged first, then the EMR05. About halfway through the EMR06 measurement, my thermocouple data logger started to include a lot of noise from the optical USB PC link. When no logging was taking place the readings were consistent, but as soon as the logging was turned on the readings showed noise. So the second half of the EMR06 trace has noise, but if you ignore the noise on the trace you can see the underlying trend of temperature variation during the run. The behaviour of the EMR06 did change throughout the run.
For the EMR05, the noise is present for the entire run, but you can still clearly see a different temperature control profile to the EMR06.
Remember that the EMR05’s runtime depends on the input power source, so here is just stopped as there was enough run to see its behaviour.

In the second graph the view is zoomed in for the first 30 minutes of the run to show the temperature control profile of each unit better.

Also included in the section are the measurements of the operating current for the EMR05, and the charging current for the EMR06. The EMR05 is shown during the temperature logging measurements while drawing power from a Nitecore power bank, and with the thermocouple in place.

What it is like to use?

Compared to the previously reviewed EMR10 and EMR20, these two units are so small and light, why wouldn’t you carry them? Clipped to your bag, you don’t even notice you are carrying them.

Nitecore make and supply double size repellent mats. This is clearly the easiest way to load up the EMR05 and EMR06. It is possible to use two standard size mats instead giving you more flexibility.

The EMR05 needs a power bank to run from. It is highly likely you would be carrying you power bank of choice anyway, for charging various items, so with the EMR05, you can just run this from any power bank you happen to have, or a plug-in charger if you are in a hotel. I’m carrying the Nitecore SCL10 power bank as it is (amazingly) also a superb video light.

I’ve been using both the EMR05 and EMR06 in a variety of indoor and outdoor locations carried separately or clipped onto a bag.

So how did they do?

Firstly, with me being apparently the finest of dining for mosquitos, if they are determined enough, you will still get bitten; I did. I’ve been bitten when covered in deet, so using repellent mats outdoors might deter some, but is not absolute protection.

It is not at all possible to properly measure the effectiveness of these repellers as the number of bites will also depend on the time, temperature, and hatching of the insects, so this can be impressions only.

NOTES on the repellent mats:

There are a few different active ingredients used in repellent mats, and these are also frequently in combination with Piperonyl butoxide. Prallethrin, Transfluthrin and D-Allethrin are the most common with Nitecore’s MRM10 Mosquito Repellent Mats using Prallethrin.

Piperonyl butoxide (PBO) is a man-made pesticide synergist. By itself, PBO is not designed to harm insects. Instead, it works with bug killers to increase their effectiveness. PBO is often combined with natural pyrethrins or man-made pyrethroids. It has been used in pesticide products since the 1950s, when it was first registered in the United States.

A repellent mat needs to be changed when it turns white. You can use Repellent Mats for a shorter period of time than the manufacture specifies and they will still be just as effective. However, if there is going to be several days between usages, you might want to keep the mats in their foil packaging or in a sealed plastic bag between uses.

Just like I wanted with the larger EMR10 and EMR20, the one feature I wish they both had was an auto-off timer. Once you turn on either one of them, they will run until the battery (or power bank) is flat or you turn it off. I found that treating at critical times was more important than all night and I would have preferred to be able to fall sleep with the repeller turning itself off after an hour or two and leaving power to run on another night.

While using the EMR05 and EMR06 I have been bitten. I am convinced I would have been bitten more without them. The most difficult aspect of their use is the protection zone they can provide. If you are walking, then the repellent vapour is trailing after you and not surrounding you. If there is wind, the repellent is blown away. In instances where you are not moving and there is wind, you need to put the device a few meters away from you and up-wind.

Some of the better results are for smaller or enclosed areas. Treating a tent, or a hammock net are idea uses. While on holiday, using it in a hotel or guest room works well.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
No auto-off timer.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Ultra-Portable compact outdoor insect repellent devices!
Double size repellent mats (and able to take two standard mats).
Versatile MOLLE mount system.
USB-C ports on both.
EMR05 can run from any power bank.
EMR06 can run/charge from any power bank.
EMR06 has a small built-in battery allowing 3 hours independent use.

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Gear Review: Nitecore EMR10 EMR20

22 July, 2023

In this review of the Nitecore EMR10 and EMR20 portable mosquito repellers / powerbanks, we take a detailed look at all aspects of their performance and function.

The EMR10 and EMR20 are two new devices from Nitecore combining portable insect repellers with a powerbank. The EMR10 has ultrasonic repellent, a repellent mat heater and a 10,000mAh powerbank, and the EMR20 is slightly smaller and simpler but without the ultrasonic function.

If, like me, you protect everyone else from mosquito bites, by being the one the mosquitoes make a beeline for, then you may be as pleased as I am to find the new Nitecore EMR10 and EMR20 portable insect repeller devices.

The thermal runtime graphs for these units are a first for Tactical reviews with the final graphs having 3500 manually entered data points!

Making his first appearance below is “Stoppo”, Tactical Reviews’ “don’t do that” guardian. Mosquitos beware, armed with the EMR units Stoppo says NO!

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

Looking closer at the EMR devices:

Both units boxed and unboxed, before we go into the finer detail.

What’s in the box – EMR10:
Along with the main unit are a charging cable, instructions and 10 of the double-size repellent mats.

A good look round the EMR10 – Things to look out for here are:
Of the two, it is a bigger and more feature packed unit, with the EMR10 there is a lot to see.
The OLED screen has a protector you need to take off. Notice the slider on the bottom, we’ll come back to that. Molded into the rubber section on the sides are some grip grooves. On each side are small ultrasonic speakers that emit a dual frequency repelling sound. On the back is a metal wire clip that is designed to work with MOLLE / PALS, pocket or belt use. The top has a USB-C port for charging and for use as a powerbank.
The repellent mat heater/holder has a retaining spring wire to keep the mat from falling out.
Then onto the EMR10’s biggest trick, the removable twin 21700 cells.

What’s in the box – EMR20:
Along with the main unit are a charging cable, instructions and 10 of the double-size repellent mats.

A good look round the EMR20 – Things to look out for here are:
The EMR20 is a smaller and simpler unit which has no grip texturing or screen. Instead it has a set of four indicator lights plus the power switch has dual coloured illumination. On the back is the same metal wire clip used by the EMR10 that is designed to work with MOLLE / PALS, pocket or belt use. The top has a USB-C port for charging and for use as a powerbank.
The repellent mat heater/holder has a retaining wire spring to keep the mat from falling out.

Batteries and output:

The following section is all the technical testing for both units. This includes temperature measurements for the repellent mat heater, plus power curves for charging each unit, and the powerbank output for each unit.

First up is the repellent mat heater output for both units. The test was carried out on the highest, ‘outdoor’ mode which takes the heater to the highest temperature.
The temperature measurement was taken by inserting a K-type thermocouple under a used mat to keep it pressed tightly against the heating plate and insulate it. Another ambient temperature thermometer was also recorded, making it three temperature measurements being monitored.
For this dual run I had to set a camera on time lapse photo to take a photo measurement every 30s. Unfortunately I had no computer logging so had to manually type each measurement – over 3500 of them!
The resulting graphs are very interesting. They show the temperature varying between an upper and lower limit. The EMR10 keeps the lower limit higher than the EMR20 and as a result uses more power and has a lower runtime. The graphs do speak for themselves, so take a bit of time to read these.
Also included are some thermal images of the EMRs during this test taken with a FLIR thermal camera.

The next gallery shows the USB input and output graphs for each unit. Charging graphs are from empty to full. The powerbank graphs show each unit charging a Oneplus phone on fast charging (9V output); they are not the full capacity of the powerbank, just to show the output characteristics which are excellent.

What it is like to use?

I want to start this section by introducing my very helpful assistant, Klaus. One of the things I was worried about with the EMR10’s ultrasonic repeller is if it would distress animals. Dog whistles are also ultrasonic (above human hearing range) so I needed to use the EMR10 around a dog to see what would happen. Not once did Klaus seem to react at all to the EMR10 negatively, or even pay any attention to it, so assuming he could hear it, it didn’t bother him. A good start.

Nitecore make and supply double size repellent mats. This is clearly the easiest way to load up the EMR10 and EMR20. It is possible to use two standard size mats instead giving you more flexibility.

You can see in one of the photos how the mats go almost white when the active ingredient has evaporated. The photo shows areas on the mat around the heat shielding that have gone white on this part used mat.

An observation relating to the EMR10’s display and capacity indication is that I’ve found the percentage show to not be accurate at all times. You can use the EMR10 while it is on charge. While doing this, the battery percentage always stays lower than it really is. You can see the input power as well on the screen and as this gets closer to being fully charged, the input watts gets lower and lower (the example here shows 10W input) but the percentage charge indicates it is much lower than it really is. Once you turn off the EMR10 it recovers and corrects itself. Just something to be aware of and I suspect relates to the charge percentage being based on the cell voltage which will of course be lower while the repeller is turned on.

I’ve been using both the EMR10 and EMR20 in a variety of indoor and outdoor locations carried separately or clipped onto a bag.

So how did they do?

Assuming the mats themselves are effective, I have been aware of the aroma coming from the mats. Considering this is outdoors, that is reassuring. Effectiveness is so subject to wind direction and strength, so you might not actually have any cover of the repellent and insects might reach you undeterred. Where the EMR10 has another string to its bow, is the ultrasonic repeller. The ultrasonic won’t be affected by wind, but having no active ingredient, it again relies on the mosquitos not being determined to bite.

NOTES on the repellent mats:

Having used them a lot, the one feature I wish they had was an auto-off timer. Once you turn on either one of them, they will run until the battery is flat or you turn it off. I found that treating at critical times was more important than all night and I would have preferred to be able to fall sleep with the repeller turning itself off after an hour or two and leaving power to run on another night. On this subject, the EMR10 allows you to either only run on one of the 21700 cells, or carry spares.

The clip has a one-way design where it fits on much more easily than taking it off. Good for not losing it, but on occasion puts up a bit of a fight to take it off, especially from MOLLE more than from a pocket.

Initially I was dubious about how much I would want to use the powerbank function when I want the power for insect repelling. But, after travelling by air a few times with these devices, the use comes from having a powerbank to use on the plane, and once getting to where I really need the repeller, then recharge and only use it for the repellent. So like this, the two functions allow for infrequent use as a powerbank while travelling, but then change to only using them as repellers when not travelling.

While using the EMR10 and EMR20 I have been bitten. I am convinced I would have been bitten more without them. The most difficult aspect of their use is the protection zone they can provide. If you are walking, then the repellent vapour is trailing after you and not surrounding you. If there is wind, the repellent is blown away. In instances where you are not moving and there is wind, you need to put the device a few meters away from you and up-wind.

Some of the better results are for smaller or enclosed areas. Treating a tent, or a hammock net are idea uses. While on holiday, using it in a hotel or guest room works well.

Review Summary

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
No auto-off timer.
Clip can be awkward to remove.
USB-C port cover needs a firm hand to get it out of the way.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Portable outdoor insect repellent device!!!
Double size repellent mats (and able to take two standard mats).
Powerbank function with rapid charge 9V output supported.
Up to 18W input power when charging.
Indoor and Outdoor modes.
Secure one-way clip.
EMR10 has replaceable cells.
EMR10 can run on one 21700 cell.
EMR10 OLED display is informative.
EMR10 also has an ultrasonic repellent.
Removable secondary heat shield.

Discussing the Review:
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Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Light Review: Nitecore TM20K – 20,000 Lumens!

17 September, 2022

Nitecore’s Tiny Monsters have always been punchy performers, from the first one I tested, (the TM11) all the way through to another Monster light that is Tiny compared to its output. Join me in this Nitecore TM20K review, 20K being the 20,000 Lumens, yes, 20,000 Lumens output from a palm sized light. As well as a look round the TM20K, this review includes output measurements, runtime graphs, and beamshots to give you the true story of its performance. It really is a Monster!

Video Overview

This video is an overview of the TM20K with a first look over the light before we get onto more details and the measurements.

What is in the box?:
This gallery shows the TM20K’s packaging and what is included. The holstered TM20K, a USB-C charging cable, a lanyard, and a thin cord for threading the lanyard.
There is also a look over the belt holster and how the top flap opens.

A good look round the TM20K – Things to look out for here are:
First, do not turn the TM20K straight on out of the box! There is a blue protective plastic film over the lens that will melt and make a mess of the front of the light, so make sure to take this off.
The body of the TM20K is a single piece, and this is not broken by any battery doors, as the TM20K has a built-in battery and is USB-C rechargeable.
The lanyard hole is next to the charging port and mode switch. On the opposite side to the mode switch is the selector toggle switch with lockout setting.
One of the flat sides has a wide steel belt clip. Also shown are the small heat sink fins and grip knurling.
On the tail of the TM20K you find the power button, tactical switches and the charging port.

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

For the beamshot comparison I used three output modes. The Daily mode ‘Floodlight’ and ‘Spotlight’ special output levels plus the ‘Turbo’ 20,000 Lumen mode.

Indoors are only the ‘Floodlight’ and ‘Spotlight’ modes as Turbo is too bright. Then moving outdoors with the same modes (around the 2,000 Lumen level), and then with the same exposure, the Turbo output. 20,000 lumens really lights things up!!

Batteries and output:

The TM20K runs on a built in battery made of 2 x 21700 4800mAh cells.

19 XP-L2 LEDs to blast out 20,000 lumens.

When working with any lights with an output over 5,000 lumens, I need to make modifications to the integrating sphere. For the TM20K, due to the extreme output and small size, it is limited to short bursts of the 20,000 lumen Turbo output. So the output table is a little different to most of the reviews I carry out.

Half the table is normal, then where it starts to list an ND filter, this is a ‘neutral density’ filter that simply cuts the light reaching the sensor by approximately 90%. Reference readings are taken to ensure the filter factor is correct, and a set of measurements were taken. With the short 8s burst of Turbo, several readings were taken and averaged. All of this is included in the table.

The graphs in this gallery show a few different things. First is a trace of the charging current consumed when charging the TM20K.
Next up is the runtime trace for High output. Due to the Turbo output being a burst mode only, for the full runtime, the graph shows the output for the high output level.
Now we have two copies of the same graph, the first shows all the traces taken to check the behaviour during the ANSI 30 second measurement time.

Shown first is an initial ‘High’ ANSI output trace (Section 1), then the Turbo button held for 30s (Section 2) where the output drops to High after 8s. Section 3 shows what happens when you intentionally use Burst, Burst, Burst until the TM20K won’t output Turbo any more.

As the ANSI output should be measured at 30s, the 8s Turbo output would mean ‘ANSI Turbo’ measurement was 3611 lm, so this means we can’t actually state an ANSI Turbo output and instead I have gone for ‘max at switch on’ for the value of Turbo, and this is what was used in the output table.

The TM20K in use

20,000 lumens in the palm of your hand, here it is:

And as a starting point I have to say the TM20K is scary bright! As well as that it heats up so quickly on Turbo you really know this is pumping out the power.

Being about the size of a 2x 18650 light used to be, the TM20K is noticeably heavier and more dense than this older class of light, a sign it is packed with performance.

The supplied holster is very nicely made and is a rigid style with flip-top lid style opening. When belt mounted you need to pull the holster body away from you to allow the lid to hinge open far enough to get the TM20K out. This might have worked better flipping open away from you. The magnetic closure is a nice touch and allows for silent opening (without the ‘tearing’ sound of Velcro).

One of the most important features for a light like this is the lockout; yes the ‘not outputting any light’ feature. Absolutely critical as the output is so high, if contained it will be dangerous.

Lockout should always be easier to activate than to deactivate, and Nitecore have made it very easy. Slide the toggle switch to the padlock and once it has been there for 2s the TM20K is locked.

While locked, if you slide the toggle to 1 or 2, the power button flashes five times to let you know it is locked. Unlocking requires two switches to be used at the same time. Holding the mode switch down as you slide the toggle switch from lockout to position 1 or 2 with the beam turning on briefly to let you know unlocking was successful.

All of that to talk about the TM20K not outputting anything, well, you will be very happy about this feature.

In terms of handling and the interface, although the TM20K lists ‘tactical’ modes, the layout of buttons and ease of access to them would not be my choice for use in a pressured situation. General use, and even search and rescue use, but not reaction or time critical scenarios where you might miss buttons or press ones you didn’t mean to.

Onto those 20,000 lumens. You get a burst of 8s at this level. If you immediately reactivate Turbo, you can do this two further times (three times before a cooling off period) where the thermal protection prevents the TM20K from going above High mode even using the Turbo button. So from cold, 24 consecutive seconds of 20,000 lumen output. Measured and confirmed as shown in the output table and graphs, all from a palm sized light. This is seriously impressive.

Going to the other extreme, I would have preferred a mode lower than 350lm. This is the ‘ultra-low’ mode on the TM20K. Even if you are breaking out the Tiny Monster, there is still a practical lower level for every day use and 350lm is too high, so this is a light to bring out when you want a lot of light.

Considering the size, that performance on High giving a hour of solid output, 45 minutes of which is over 3000lm, does make this a workhorse, even if you ignore the Turbo output.

Not forgetting my previous comments about the tactical mode, the momentary output in this mode is great for searching especially when other people are around and you don’t want to blind them.

My preference is always for removable/replaceable batteries, but the other side to this is the guaranteed performance of the cells chosen by Nitecore to power this Tiny Monster, and the simplification of the design as it doesn’t need a battery door. Being a super high performance light, the cell characteristics are critical, so we can take the built-in cells as a positive point.

20,000 lumens is shocking and astounding from a pocket sized light, well done Nitecore.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
‘Ultra-low’ mode is still 350 lumens.
Holster lid opening into your body is a bit awkward.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
20,000 Lumen burst output.
Excellent Lockout implementation.
Momentary and latching operation.
Fixed Flood and Spot special modes.
Instant access twin Turbo switches.
Very compact for the output performance.
Quality holster included.
19 XP-L2 LEDs.

Tactical Reviews at IWA 2018

18 March, 2018

This year was the 45th edition of IWA OutdoorClassics at the Exhibition Centre Nuremberg with 1,558 exhibitors and almost 47,000 trade visitors from around the world.
Exhibitors from almost 60 countries and trade visitors from about 130 countries gave the 45th edition of IWA OutdoorClassics even more of an international flavour than last year.

Tactical Reviews was there, and included here is a gallery of products that caught my eye as I went round the vast exhibition. Of course this is only a small taste of what was on show, with excellent products from Pohl Force, MecArmy, Mantis, Luminox, Armourlite/Isobrite, Morakniv, Nordic Pocket Saw, Hultafors, ZT, Victorinox, Leatherman, Fox, Oberland Arms, Buck, SOG, Nitecore, DYX, Wiley X, Spyderco, Chris Reeve Knives and Nordic Heat.

(When viewing the gallery, click on the image to remove the description, click again to bring it back)

Pohl Force Prototypes of the Force One and Mike Forty Two

MecArmy X3S Tiny USB Rechargeable lights

MecArmy SGN7 and SGN5 Personal Attack Alarm lights

A MantisX Shooting trainer is fitted to this pistol

Armourlite's Prototype of a 64 vial Isobrite Automatic T-100 watch

Morakniv have produced the Garberg in Carbon Steel

Nordic Pocket Saw - the name says it all

Nordic Pocket Saw making the saw dust fly

Hultafors Åby Forest Axe on a Wetterhall Throwing Axe

Hultafors Åby Forest Axe with sharpening puck

Victorinox Hunter Pro and Ranger Grip Boatsman

Leatherman's Tread Tempo (a watch with the Tread tool as a strap)

Fox Prototype friction folder and the Octopus fixed blade

Oberland Arms special edition Damast Sepp Jubiläumsmesser

Oberland Arms Imwoid Sepp, special edition Damast Sepp Jubiläumsmesser and Wuiderer Sepp

Pohl Force's Force One is a real handful

Buck Selkirk Folder and folding filleting knife

SOG's pre-production Power Pint and Power Litre, plus the production Poweraccess

Nitecore have a new range with infinitely adjustable output

DYX with a ground breaking single optic range finder

DYX with a ground breaking rifle scope with integrated range finder

Wiley X never stop innovating. That is protective eyewear with a metal frame

Spyderco has throwing knives! Designed by specialist maker Moeller with each size coming as a set of three

Spyderco's Native family has grown with the Shaman and Lil' Native. There are back-lock and compression lock options

Spyderco Szabohawk Hand Axe breaching tool

Chris Reeve Knives limited edition 'Doppler' design

Chris Reeve Knives limited edition Franklin quote design

Chris Reeve Knives Nyala with Insingo blade

Chris Reeve Knives limited edition 'Circuits' design

A few souvenirs from IWA - keep an eye out for the reviews

Gear Review: NITECORE SC2 Charger and F1 Charger / Powerbank

24 April, 2017

With so many chargers to choose from, it can be difficult to pick one, so you may be looking for those models with a little more to offer. NITECORE’s SC2 and F1 chargers both have extra features that make them stand out, so let’s see what they are.

A few more details of the F1:

Starting with the smaller F1. Well ‘smaller’ doesn’t do it justice, this is tiny. I must also point out straight away, that this is not just a charger, but it is a powerbank as well. (NOTE: The F1 is only intended for charging Li-ion cells and needs a Li-ion for use as a USB powerbank.)

Along with the F1, you get two rubber bands which are used to secure an 18650 in the charging slot. This is for when you use the F1 as a powerbank and want the cell to stay in place when you carry it.

At one end of the F1 is a micro-USB socket which is used for the input power to charge the cell fitted into the F1.

Switching to the other end, the F1 has a full size USB socket which can provide USB power output up to 1000mA.

The F1 contacts are gold plated.

With a spring loaded sliding contact, the F1 can be used for any of the following Li-ion cells; 26650/18650/17670/18490/17500/17335/16340(RCR123)/14500/10440.

Underneath is basic information about the input/output ratings of this charger/powerbank.

A few more details of the SC2:

With the SC2 we have quite a step up in power, and one of the headline specifications is a 3A charge current (if using 3A in one slot the other can only provide 2A), ideal for IMR or high capacity cells. This charger is compatible with a huge list of cells including both Li-ion and Ni-Mh cells.

With the SC2 you get a suitable mains lead (in this case a UK plug) and the instructions. Don’t throw those instructions away, you will need them.

Relatively plain looking the SC2 is full of functionality.

On the top end of the SC2 are the inputs and outputs. The yellow figure-8 socket is for the mains lead. There is also a 12V DC input for use in a car. Above the mains input is a full size USB socket which provides up to 2.1A USB charging output.

Considering its capabilities, the layout is very simple. There is an indicator panel (lights only, no digits are displayed), two control buttons, and the two slots.

On the underneath there are four rubber feet and the list of supported cells.

It’s a huge list of supported cells; IMR / Li-ion / LiFePO4: 10340, 10350, 10440, 10500, 12340, 12500, 12650, 13450, 13500, 13650, 14350, 14430, 14500, 14650, 16500, 16340(RCR123), 16650, 17350, 17500,17650, 17670, 18350, 18490, 18500, 18650, 18700, 20700, 21700, 22500, 22650, 25500, 26500, 26650
Ni-MH(NiCd): AA, AAA, AAAA, C, D

The contacts are the typical chrome plated type.

A nice detail is that the NITECORE name is stamped into the slider contact.

All the various options are selected using the two buttons. The C and V represent the Current and Voltage settings you can select.

When first powered on, the SC2 shows a set of lights indicating the default of 2A charging current.

What are they like to use?

The F1 is one of those ‘don’t need to think about it, just buy it’ products for me. Combining the function of a Li-ion charger and powerbank into a tiny, easy to carry, device just makes it a must have EDC device.
When you insert a cell, it also tells you the voltage, so will work as a cell checker as well. If you use li-ions and have a smart phone, you will want one of these.

I’ve given the review sample a really hard time, with the worst conditions being the F1 having a 26650 fitted and used as a powerbank for a set of USB lights that try to draw 3A. Considering this should only output 1A, the actual output current was around 1.5A. Like this it was allowed to run constantly all day for a couple of weeks, swapping the 26650 when required. During this time the F1 did get hot, but expecting this to become a destructive test due to the extended abuse, I was impressed to find the F1 survived this without any issues.

For more details, have a look at the instructions by clicking on this image for the full size version. (Depending on your browser you might need to ‘right-click’ and ‘open in new tab/window’.)

Hidden within the casing are three green indicator lights. These tell you the cell voltage when inserting a cell, the remaining capacity when using as a powerbank, or the charging status when charging a cell.

The ideal cell for powerbank use is an 18650, and the supplied rubber bands fit this size cell perfectly. This is how it looks when you have it ready to carry as a powerbank.
It is important to note that there is parasitic drain when in Powerbank configuration which in the sleep/low power mode measures at 390uA. When using a 3100mAh cell it will take 331 days to drain the cell.
According to the YZX Studio Power Monitor, the output of the USB charging port is ‘Android DCP 1.5A’ meaning the D+ and D- lines are shorted.

Once you are back at home/work, just top up the cell with any USB charging point. Of course another major advantage of the F1 as a powerbank is that you can carry spare cells for it, and swap as needed.

Now onto the SC2. This is a very versatile charger, but I have to say it has not been the easiest to work with. Using the defaults is easy. Turn it on, and pop in your cells, the SC2 will charge them quickly, but it is when you want to change modes that it hasn’t been that easy. Because of this I’m not even going to attempt to explain so you definitely will want to refer to these instructions. I did find that some double clicking was required to enter manual mode. This is not mentioned in the instructions, so if it is not responding as you expect, try a double click.
Click on this image for the full size version. (Depending on your browser you might need to ‘right-click’ and ‘open in new tab/window’.)

Here is an IMR cell (from the TM03) charging on defaults. It is now displaying a full charge, as during charging the current lights show the charging current, and the voltage lights are used to display charging status with three LEDs. Once the three LEDs remain on steady, the cell is fully charged.

It is important to note that due to the high charging current, the SC2 will terminate a little early. You don’t quite get a completely full charge. You can always pop the mostly full cell into another charger for that final top-up but you don’t really need to.
This graph has three traces on it and two of them compare the SC2 and D4 chargers (both used to charge the TM03s’s cell).
The SC2’s slightly early termination can be seen with the earlier drop to low mode at around 1h 20m. Considering the vast reduction in charging time, this minor loss in overall output is well worth it.

There is one major design flaw with the SC2 sent to me. The numbers on the display to show current and voltage are only printed on the plastic film on the display. When you unpack the charger you normally expect to remove a protective film from the display. As you do this, you find the numbers come off as well!
I had to put the film back on after finding this which is why there are some bubbles under the film.
My advice is to NOT remove the protective film (unless you have confirmed the number are now printed on the actual display.

As explained in the user manual, Slot 2 and the USB charging output contend with each other. If the cell in Slot 2 is charging the USB output is stopped. So you can charge a cell in Slot 1 and a USB device at the same time, but if using Slot 2, only once the cell is charged does the USB charging work.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

_______________________________________________	_______________________________________________
Things I like	What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________	_______________________________________________
F1 – Tiny Li-Ion Charger.	F1 – Parasitic drain could be lower.
F1 – Tiny Powerbank with changeable cell.	F1 – Cell quite easily knocked even with rubber band.
F1 – charges from any micro-USB charger.
SC2 – Super Fast 3A Charger.	SC2 – Display Labels Printed on removable protective film.
SC2 – USB charger output.	SC2 – Mode changing a bit tricky.
SC2 – Huge list of compatible cells.	SC2 – Cells not quite fully charged.
SC2 – Mains and 12V power options.

Discussing the Review:

Please feel free to add comments to the review, but the ideal place to freely discuss these reviews is on a forum. If you started reading the shorter forum version of the review, but followed the link this full exclusive review, please return to that forum to discuss the review there.
If you read the review entirely on Tactical Reviews, please consider one of the following to join in any discussion.

EdgeMatters – Sponsored Reviews (UK based Forum for Knife Makers and Collectors)

CandlePowerForums – Knife Reviews Section (Largest and Friendliest Flashlight Community Forum)

Light Review: NITECORE TM03 (Tiny Monster)

29 March, 2017

NITECORE have been expanding the Tiny Monster line and with the TM03 have shrunk the monster performance into a single 18650 size light. Now it is even easier to carry Tiny Monster performance with you in the form of the world’s most powerful 1x 18650 light.

Taking a more detailed look:

Following the other TM series lights, the TM03 comes in a tough cardboard box.

The light is held in place with a strong closed cell foam.

Along with the TM03, a holster, the instructions and a spare o-ring are provided.

Before we look at the TM03 in more detail, let’s look at the holster. Here it is with the TM03 inside.

You have the choice of D-loop, fixed loop, or Velcro loop.

There is a blue plastic lens protector on the front when it arrives. You MUST remove this before trying the TM03 at all as it will melt and make a mess of the lens if you don’t.

As with the NITECORE Precise series, the TM03 has a dual switch tail-cap. One is a forward clicky standard switch and the other is a metal paddle MODE switch.

Supplied in the TM03 is a special IMR cell, clearly labelled ‘FOR TM03’. It is normal 18650 size, so this gives you and idea of the overall size of the TM03.

In the tailcap are the two normal contacts.

Mainly for heat-sinking, the TM03 has a heavy duty thick walled battery tube.

Standard threads are used for the tail-cap.

Back to the dedicated 18650 IMR cell. Notice the dual contacts at the front.

Taking a closer look at the dual contacts on what would normally be the positive end of the cell.

The negative terminal of the cell is standard.

Peering inside the battery tube you can make out the positive contact as well as the secondary contacts surrounding it.

Finish is to a high standard as is the engraving.

Despite the high output, the cooling fins are shallow.

Here is the heart of this Tiny Monster, its monster XHP70 Quad die LED.

The reflector is textured to give a smoother beam, but the reflector also has two profiles specifically controlling how much spill and hotspot the TM03 has.

Putting the TM03 next to a normal 18650 light, it is slightly bigger and heavier in build, but has performance that outshines the standard light by a long way.

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

With such high output, and indoor shot can easily be overblown, so this is not a representation of how bright the beam is, but the characteristics of the beam. Exposure has been adjusted to show the hotspot, spill, and outer spill. For such a large LED, there is quite a defined hotspot, and the spill is a medium width.

Then we go outdoors, and blast the full 2800lm , and this is the effect you get. The TM03 is bright, and it is very compact. Nice!

Modes and User Interface:

The TM03 has four constant modes (Turbo, High, Mid and Low) and one flashing (Strobe) mode, controlled by a dual-switch tail-cap.

Basic operation is with the forward-clicky switch; half press for momentary access to the last used constant mode, and fully press and click to turn the TM03 ON to the last used constant mode. (Release or click again to switch off).

When ON, pressing the MODE switch cycles through the output modes – Low, Mid, High, Turbo, Low etc.

The TM03 allows you to set up the direct access operation of the MODE switch in two different modes – Suppressing Light, or STROBE READY.

To swap between these two modes:
Switch the TM03 OFF
Remove and replace the battery.
Within 60s of replacing the battery tighten the tail-cap while pressing and holding the MODE switch.
The TM03 will then flash once to indicate Suppressing Light, and two for STROBE READY.

In Suppressing Light mode:
Direct access to Turbo – in any mode including OFF, press and hold the MODE switch. Release to return to previous output.
Quick access to Strobe – in any mode including OFF, press the MODE switch twice in quick succession. Press again to return to previous output.

In STROBE READY mode:
Direct access to Strobe – in any mode including OFF, press and hold the MODE switch. Release to return to previous output.
Quick access to Turbo – in any mode including OFF, press the MODE switch twice in quick succession. Press again to return to previous output.

When inserting the battery, a red light in the tail-cap flashes to indicate battery power. Three blinks for above 50%, two blinks for below 50% and one blink for less than 10%.

Batteries and output:

The TM03 runs on a supplied proprietary IMR call with dual contacts on one end, but will also run at a severely reduced output on a normal 18650.

To measure actual output, I built an integrating sphere. See here for more detail. The sensor registers visible light only (so Infra-Red and Ultra-Violet will not be measured).

___________________________________________	________________________________	________________________________
NITECORE TM03 using specified cell	I.S. measured ANSI output Lumens	PWM frequency or Strobe frequency (Hz)
___________________________________________	________________________________	________________________________
Turbo – TM03 IMR	2804	0
High – TM03 IMR	1501	0
Medium – TM03 IMR	632	0
Low – TM03 IMR	34	0
Max – ‘Normal’ AW IMR	259	0

* Beacon and Strobe output measurements are only estimates as the brief flashes make it difficult to capture the actual output value.

Peak Beam intensity measured 21300 lx @1m giving a beam range of 292 m.

There is parasitic drain and due to the dual contact at the head of the light there is drain at the head, and drain at the tailcap. When using the TM03’s IMR cell, the drain was 1.7mA at the head and 15uA at the tailcap. Taking the worst of these as the only significant value, it is the head drain that is relevant as it will take only 76 days to drain the cell.

NOTE: The use of the AW IMR cell for the ‘normal’ 18650 test was to prove that the throttling of output was not due to a bad cell. The TM03 is drastically throttled when not using the supplied cell and this is no reflection on the AW cell.

This graph has three traces on it to show a couple of specific aspects, including comparing a couple of NITECORE chargers, the SC2 and D4 (both used to charge the TM03s’s cell), and also showing the characteristics depending on if you start in Turbo or High.
The SC2 is a rapid charger, well suited to IMR cells. Due to charging at a higher current, it also tends to terminate earlier. This can be seen with the earlier drop to low mode at around 1h 20m. Considering the vast reduction in charging time, this minor loss in overall output is well worth it.
Then look at the overall characteristics when starting on Turbo where after the initial 2800lm burst, the output drops right down to the 630lm Mid level output, and then continues on this until the cell is depleted.
When starting on High, the output remains on High until the cell can no longer maintain the output and starts to drop in stages, gradually reducing at 20m all the way through to 1h from turn on.
Effectively if you want more light for longer, either stay on High, or you’ll have to switch it OFF and ON again to get Turbo (as long as it is not too hot), and expect not to have much runtime.

Troubleshooting

This section is included to mention any minor niggles I come across during testing, in case the information helps anyone else.

No issues were encountered during testing.

As per the description of this section, this information is provided in case anyone else finds a similar ‘issue’ that might be fixed in the same way.

The TM03 in use

Normally I don’t like to start with a negative, but the TM03 does have one issue, and that is particularly with the Suppression Mode. I have found that when closing the holster flap over the TM03’s tail-cap, it is easy to press (or more dangerously – nearly press) the MODE switch enough to activate direct access Turbo. This means that inside the holster the TM03 bursts into life with all 2800lm. It gets hot VERY fast. Now I also said ‘more dangerously – nearly press’, and the reason it is more dangerous, is that the TM03 is now on a hair trigger needing only a tiny pressure on the holster to bring on the Turbo output. I was putting the TM03 into a drawer and as it nestled against some other items Turbo came on. Luckily I noticed, but I could easily have closed that drawer – for the last time.
So my first comment is that if using the holster you need to undo the tail-cap a half turn (a quarter is not enough) to lock-out the TM03.

Now onto the good stuff. This is a very bright light. Even these days when people are used to high output lights, the TM03 still surprises with its compact size. It is not much bigger than standard 1x 18650 lights, but is a lot more powerful. The heavy build is reassuring and is certainly needed for heat-sinking. I never had the sense the TM03 was getting too hot.

My own views on tactical lighting requirements gathered from various members of the armed services and law enforcement are that Strobe is not the preferred output, but very bright is. The TM03 does VERY bright, very well.

Of course with the fundamental law of portable lighting that you can only have two of the three factors – Bright, Small, Long Runtime, the TM03 looses out in runtime. Mainly this is because if you have the TM03 on you, why would you bother with the Low mode? You will be enjoying all those lumens, using bursts of Turbo, and all too soon it does start to struggle. Not the fault of the TM03, but just a factor to be aware of – this is a Tiny Monster after all.

It was worth the extra effort required to check the parasitic drain at the head, as this explains why after only short periods of storage, the runtime is even more reduced. This level of drain is bad. It is easy to pop a light in a drawer for three months at a time, and in that time the TM03 will be dead. Even if you undo the tail-cap slightly, this doesn’t stop the double pole in the head making contact and draining the cell, you need to remove the cell completely.

With regard to using other 18650 cells, NITECORE have severely hobbled the output on the TM03 when not using its dedicated double pole IMR. The maximum output I managed to get was around 250lm. It does mean that you know you can still have enough light to see by if you carry a normal 18650 as a spare, but once that dedicated IMR is depleted, you need to recharge before you get the TM performance again. At least you know it will work as a backup, and with such extreme performance it is sensible to protect the light and the user from ‘unknown’ cells.

If you want a pocket rocket, the TM03 will not disappoint, and brings custom level performance to a production light.