Author: Subwoofer

Epic Knife Review: Aitor Jungle King Series 1, 2 and 3 – Part 2

13 June, 2025

Join me in the continuation of an epic super-detailed two-part review of the AITOR Jungle King knife series. For me, this style of knife focuses on the fun in outdoor knife use that is so often overlooked due to it being fashionable to dismiss any knife if it doesn’t have a full tang and latest super-steel. Let’s allow ourselves the simple enjoyment of using different knives, and with the Jungle King Series, Aitor have packed them with interesting and useful features.

This epic review of the Aitor Jungle King knives has so much detail I’ve had to split it into two parts. In this, the second part, we will explore using the plethora of features Aitor give you, and some valuable insights into these interesting knives.

See Part 1 for the technical details and photo galleries showing all the features. Read on here in Part 2 for practical testing and insights plus a unique insight into the madness of UK knife law.

The madness of UK Knife law (and the global epidemic):

I’ve had to start Part 2 with this section for two main reasons. Firstly, in order not to break a new UK knife law “The Criminal Justice Act 1988 (Offensive Weapons) (Amendment, Surrender and Compensation) Order 2024″ when it came into force, I had to modify the Jungle King 1, as overnight this knife became an illegal offensive weapon in the UK, which was clearly a danger to society and must be destroyed.

Fortunately the relatively minor reshaping of the knife tip brought the Jungle King’s blade under this terrifying 8” threshold and filled it with fwuffy bunny wabbit love meaning the UK was safe again 🙂

In the gallery, the masking tape was used to mock up the required position for this modification and finalise the angle for this small reverse Tanto. Such a pity to have to make this alteration, but the tip strength will be higher with this modification. The material was removed using a belt grinder, and definitely proved the hardness and wear resistance of the Aitor heat treat as it did resist the change and take longer than expected. It was however worth it to feel I had made the country a safer place to live in (this was said with sarcasm).

Comparison of size and handling:

I take an XL size Glove, and this gallery steps through the models from Jungle King 1 to 3 giving a sense of how they handle.

New Edges for All:

I did give myself quite a job with the major reprofiling of all three blades, and although there was a lot of metal needing to be removed, it was worth the effort as this has transformed all the Jungle King models.

All blades were taken to 17.5 DPS.

The Pallet Chop test:

This is a no-holds-barred chopping test. Initially chopping directly with the knife, and then, if required, using a baton to drive the blade into the board.
The Jungle King 1 simply blasts through this test under its own weight, a powerful chopper without any jarring or bounce. The difference in chopping with the Jungle King 2 is huge. Its weight, or lack of, in comparison to the Jungle King 1 makes it much less effective; so step in the baton. The blade profile is also a wider wedge, so takes more effort to drive it in deeply, and the angle of cut is critical. As the Jungle King 2 progresses through this cutting task, it becomes more difficult to do as it needs enough space for the baton to be able to strike the blade.
Last up is the Jungle King 3, lightweight and a plastic handle – so “what are you doing?” you might well ask. The point is to see if it could and what I found was a ‘Yes…but’ answer. Right here in this gallery, the Jungle King 3 was used as it is, with the tailcap and survival kit in place. After three strikes on the blade spine, the brass threaded insert broke free of the handle. The lesson is; don’t baton with the Jungle King 3 straight out of the sheath, however, this story is to be continued…

Aitor Saw-Backs:

With the Jungle King 1 and 2 featuring the Aitor Saw Back, how do these fare? As with almost all saws on the spine of a knife blade, it is best to consider these a notching tool rather than a full cross-cut saw. Depth of cut is limited to more or less the depth of the saw teeth before the saw starts to bind in the cut and progress stops as there is no clearance. The saw-backs do help give a square cut for making pegs, traps, cooking stands, so are useful, but won’t allow you to saw off branches.

Camp Cutting and Fire Lighting:

Straight up I must say that initial out-of-the-box cutting tests were disappointing. I normally would try to use the factory edges as much as possible. However the edge reprofile, and sharpen to shaving sharp (less than 200 BESS shaves), has made the Jungle King knives eager cutters and a pleasure to use. The fineness and delicacy of cut the Jungle King 1 manages surprised me. The large blade and handle allowing for controlled power to be applied to the cuts. Moving to the Jungle King 2 and it feels so light in comparison, despite its all metal construction, and although also cutting very well, with good control, the advantages of the larger Jungle King 1 are apparent.
Lightest of all, the Jungle King 3 with the slimmest blade, has a tendency to bite in more deeply that you want, and its smaller size and weight becomes apparent as you feel it is harder work for the same tasks; but it is significantly lighter and easier to carry.
All the Jungle King knives stood up really well with the new edge geometry, holding their edges and not showing any damage.
The fire-lighting tests were a mix and match, with the magnesium block fire steel from the Jungle King 1, and using the easier to handle Jungle King 3 for striking and shaving the magnesium block. I chose to use the magnesium block mounted firesteel as the small fire steels in the survival kits are uncomfortable to hold during striking, so the magnesium block provides a stable platform for this. Unfortunately, during this test, the fire steel came away from the magnesium block, leaving me having to hold the firesteel on its own anyway.
Though not a requirement, the magnesium shavings do help get a flame going if the tinder is not perfectly dry, so try without first, but then you can always give it a boost if needed.

That Iconic Slingshot:

Such an overused word ‘iconic’ but it is true for Aitor’s Jungle King knives. Again one of those highly copied features, for the reason it is simply great fun. Would I expect to use it to hunt in a survival situation? Honestly, no, I’ve never been that good with a slingshot, and naturally available ammunition is not consistent in size, shape or weight. Like the lottery, if you don’t play you can’t win, so in desperate times an attempted shot is better than no shot. Added to that, for survival, when you finally might need to try, the slingshot bands are latex, and latex bands degrade over time, so unless you make sure to replace them every year or two with fresh bands, you may find they are unusable.
Initial testing here was with the Jungle King 1 and 2. When using the Jungle King 3 I found it significantly less comfortable to hold, with the smaller sheath digging into my hand more.
The slingshot bands appear to be the same specification, even if a slightly different colour. Assembly is very easy just pushing the ends of the bands over the slingshot arms. Drawing the slingshot makes the tubes grip onto the metal arms, so they don’t slide off.
For this plinking test I used ‘mud balls’ (clay slingshot ammo), and two factors presented very quickly. For each and every shot, the slingshot arms are knocked forward (as shown) out of position, so need to be pulled back into place for the next shot. Most seriously, after only five shots, the bands developed holes from the unfinished ends of the slingshot arms. At least one arm for each Jungle King model has a sharp corner which cut through the slingshot band. Testing was cut short as I did not want to continue with the damaged bands.

The Slingshot Fix:

After that initial testing session being cut short, I rounded off the ends of all the slingshot arms with a file, on all the Jungle King models. Not a perfect job by any means, but leaving no sharp corners. Then trimming off those damaged ends from the bands (at least this is an easy fix, by just shortening them a couple of centimetres) and going again.
Now, after I got tired (lost track of how many shots), there was no damage to the bands at all. I did get more accurate, but would not have expected to hit a rabbit, squirrel or bird sized target. Fun, just not if my life depended on it.

General use of the Jungle King knives:

This is a bit of a hotchpotch section to round up a few things in one last gallery. A reminder that you don’t need to be on jungle adventures to use these knives; I needed to cut some foam rubber to size and the large blade of the Jungle King 1 was ideal to give me the a perfectly clean wide flat cut. Slicing easily with the same untouched edge that was previously put to work for the pallet chop and cutting tests.
A note about the Jungle King 1’s sheath, and the slide-out tray plus metal sheath divider, which fell out. I suspect the slingshot practice session caused the metal divider to come loose, and the photos in the gallery show the correct way round for the metal divider to be fitted. The slightly upturned end actually provides some pressure on the blade of the knife to stabilise it in the sheath, so it must be fitted back in this way round.
For the final part of the gallery I am revisiting the Jungle King 3 batoning test where previously the brass threaded insert came loose. I took the brass insert out completely, cleaned it up and epoxied it back in place. I know I used more glue to fix it than there was before.
The main lesson learned was that actually you can baton with the Jungle King 3, but if you do, make sure you remove the tailcap and survival kit first. Without the tailcap in place the shock from the baton strikes won’t hit the threaded insert so hard. In fact what you see here was a full-on batoning session and only the smaller size of blade was slowing progress. No damage was sustained at all using the Jungle King 3 like this, and though I know the threaded insert is more firmly epoxied in place than it was originally, I think this approach would probably have been fine.

What is it like to use?

Are the Jungle King Knives the best survival knives you can buy? Would a modern military special forces team choose these knives for critical missions? I think not – But this is not the point.

The Jungle King knives are capable, if somewhat unwieldy, tools, with plenty of features. They are enjoyable to use and find uses for their features.

Working on the basis the Jungle King 3 is intended for a younger user (who can then progress to the Jungle King 1 or 2 in time), we consider it as a leisure knife to use while camping, and practice both general camp and survival skills.

Though a seriously capable knife, the Jungle King 1, as a total package, is big and heavy, so you might not want to carry it far. Which brings us to the ‘Goldilocks’ model of the series, the Jungle King 2 – a practical carry option and still packed with features, including the secondary knife. It is understandable why this was copied so much.

As a Gen-Xer, these knives have been highly influential and are nostalgic; regardless of this, and current trends, let your hair down and have some fun with these strong and feature-packed knives.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Sharp ends on slingshot arms damaging the rubbers.
Factory edges are disappointing.
UK Only – JK1 is no longer legal as the blade is over 8″.
Saw back cut depth very limited.
JK3 compass cannot be used while fitted to the handle.
A metal handle will be VERY cold to use in winter.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Very robust all metal construction for JK1 and JK2.
Classic, Iconic and historically Influential design.
A choice of size to suit all.
Individually HRC hardness tested/verified blades.
Good edge performance and resilience during testing.
JK1 and JK2 include a secondary full tang knife.
Hollow handles carry survival essentials.
Slingshot incorporated into all models.
JK1 and JK2 include emergency cord.
JK1 and JK2 include a sharpening stone.
JK3 brings inclusivity for the younger user.
Fun to use.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 1:

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 2:

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 3:

Onto a full video review covering many more details of all three:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Epic Knife Review: Aitor Jungle King Series 1, 2 and 3 – Part 1

13 June, 2025

Join me in an epic super-detailed two-part review of the AITOR Jungle King knife series, the Jungle King 1, 2 and 3. For me, this style of knife focuses on the fun in outdoor knife use that is so often overlooked due to the fashion to dismiss any knife if it doesn’t have a full tang and the latest super-steel. Let’s allow ourselves the simple enjoyment of using different knives and with the Jungle King Series, Aitor have packed them with interesting, fun and useful features.

This epic review of the Aitor Jungle King Series knives is has so much detail I’ve had to split it into two parts. In this, the first part, you can see all the design details and features of each model – a technical presentation. Part two will then explore using the plethora of functions Aitor give you.

The Jungle King I is one of the most famous knives on the market, and as we know it now, was released in 1985 following the huge increase in demand for this style of knife, first made popular due to the movie ‘First Blood’ and its sequels.

It was not long before the Jungle King II joined its bigger brother, and then went on to be (probably) the most copied design ever for this type of survival knife. It is these inferior copies that gave the style of knife a bad name. The Aitor Jungle King II is not the same, as the hollow handle is made of metal and is built for heavy use. Each blade is Rockwell hardness tested during production, proudly shown on the blade in the “Hardness Control” circle engraved to highlight this quality control check.

The Jungle King III is the little brother of the Jungle King knife series. Agile and fast, its design is versatile and functional make it a very capable tool. The Jungle King III joins the family and gives you a choice of size and weight.

Jungle King knives have been issued as part of basic military equipment by some armed forces, including the Special Operations Unit of Marine Spanish Armed Forces. Over the years, the Jungle King has been considered by many experts as the best survival knife in the world, pioneering and unique, being one of the best in its category. Its design, versatility and functionality make it very useful for survival.

The entire Jungle King Series (at the time of writing) is represented in this review, so we’ll be looking at the Jungle King 1, 2 and 3 (or I, II and III).

Jungle King 1 – What’s in the box?:

The Jungle King arrives in a cardboard box, simply the sheathed knife and nothing else. I’ve included an initial indication of size as here it is held in my XL glove size hand.

A good look round the Jungle King 1’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

For this gallery we are looking at just the sheath, not any of the extras in it. A simple cord leg strap with snap together fastener is included. Then, sorry, but I do need to use the word ‘iconic’ , we have the iconic folding slingshot arms. The main body of the sheath is wrapped in cord. The cord serves two purposes, first is that it will be a seriously useful survival item, the other is that while stored on the sheath is covers up the sheath mounted sharpening stone which you can see peeking out as I pushed the cord aside slightly.
For the retention strap Aitor use a quick-release toggle type of fastener, more commonly used on military MOLLE pouches. Reliable and strong and unlike a press stud it can’t loosen over time. Similarly, the belt loop also has the quick-release toggle to open and allow it to be fitted to a belt without undoing the belt.

A good look round the Jungle King 1’s Kit – Things to look out for here are:

We saw a hint of this in the previous gallery; tucked into the sheath is a slide-out tray, and a full tang secondary knife / multi-tool.
Held within the tray are the slingshot rubbers, a small glass vial, and a magnesium block with firesteel. The back of the tray has a cut-out to house the secondary knife, plus a signaling mirror. Also on the tray are some molded in reminders for signaling protocols.
So, we actually have a whole other knife, the Aitor Skinner JK1, a full tang multi-purpose blade, with gut hook, spanner, bottle / can opener, and flat head screwdriver. Plenty of holes are provided to lash this to a pole as a spear point.
For the details of the Jungle King I hollow handle kit, please see the feature length video.

A good look round the Jungle King 1 Knife – Things to look out for here are:

Onto the Jungle King Knife itself. Big and full-metal construction makes this a beast. The handle is cast from the same steel as the blade, and the tailcap is non-magnetic stainless steel, so this is full stainless steel construction. As well as being epoxied into the handle, the blade tang has a large roll-pin driven through it to make the join very strong, while the front part of the handle is extended to further support the blade to handle join.
A hollow grind is used for the primary bevel, and the Jungle King features a saw-back using Aitor’s unique pattern. Don’t miss the fact that during production each blade is individually HRC tested and this test indentation is identified with an engraving on the blade to highlight it. The sweeping swedge finishes off the classic blade shape.
Unscrewing the tail-cap reveals the survival capsule kit in the handle, and inside the tail-cap is a button compass. There is an o-ring to keep the handle compartment water tight, and inside the handle a spring is used to stop the capsule rattling, and helpfully push it out slightly as you open the handle. For the details of the Jungle King I hollow handle kit, please see the feature length video.

Jungle King 2 – What’s in the box?:

The Jungle King 2 arrives in a cardboard box, simply the sheathed knife and nothing else.

A good look round the Jungle King 2’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

For this gallery we are looking at just the sheath, not any of the extras in it. As with the Jungle King I, a simple cord leg strap with snap together fastener is included. Then, again, we have the iconic folding slingshot arms. The main body of the sheath is wrapped in cord. The cord serves two purposes, first is that it will be a seriously useful survival item, the other is that while stored on the sheath it covers up the sheath mounted sharpening stone, which you can see peeking out as I pushed the cord aside slightly.
As with the Jungle King 1, for the Jungle King 2’s retention strap, Aitor use a quick-release toggle type of fastener, more commonly used on military MOLLE pouches. Reliable and strong and unlike a press stud it can’t loosen over time. Similarly, the belt loop also has the quick-release toggle to open and allow it to be fitted to a belt without undoing the belt.

A good look round the Jungle King 2’s Kit – Things to look out for here are:

Tucked into the sheath is a slide out tray, and a just as with the Jungle King 1, includes a full tang secondary knife / multi-tool.
Held within the tray are just the slingshot rubbers as there is less space inside the Jungle King 2’s sheath. The back of the tray has a cut-out to house the secondary knife, plus a signaling mirror. Also on the tray are some molded in reminders for signaling protocols.
So we do have a whole other knife, the Aitor Skinner JKII, a full tang multi-purpose blade, with gut hook, spanner, bottle / can opener, and flat head screwdriver. Plenty of holes are provided to lash this to a pole as a spear point.

A good look round the Jungle King 2 Knife – Things to look out for here are:

Onto the Jungle King 2 Knife itself. As with the Jungle King 1, the handle is cast from the same steel as the blade, and the tailcap is non-magnetic stainless steel, so this is full stainless steel construction. As well as being epoxied the blade tang has a large roll-pin driven through it to make the join very strong while the front part of the handle is extended to further support the blade to handle join.
A hollow grind is used for the primary bevel, and the knife features a saw back using Aitor’s unique pattern. Don’t miss the fact that during production each blade is individually HRC tested and this test indentation is identified with an engraving on the blade to highlight it. The sweeping swedge finished off the classic spear-point blade shape.
Unscrewing the tail-cap reveals the survival capsule kit in the handle and inside the tail-cap is a button compass. There is an o-ring to keep the handle compartment water tight, and inside the handle a spring is used to stop the capsule rattling, and push it out slightly as you open the handle.

A good look round the Aitor Jungle King 2 Survival Capsule – Things to look out for here are:

The survival capsule…usually this is opened straight away and then quickly lost, or just never touched. Of course the idea is to pack in as many useful things as possible, which might help you or make some survival tasks easier. Aitor’s survival capsule contains two standard plasters, a sterile No. 23 scalpel blade, tweezers, fire-steel, two small safety pins, two sewing needles, some thread, plus a fishing kit consisting of three pre-tied hooks, a longer piece of line and three split shot. (Plus, don’t forget that they can sometimes oddly useful, the two staples that closed the bag containing the fishing kit.)
All these things are better to have and not need, than to need and not have.

Jungle King 3 – What’s in the box?:

In keeping with the rest of the series, the Jungle King 3 arrives in a cardboard box, simply the sheathed knife and nothing else.

A good look round the Jungle King 3’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

Being a simpler, smaller, lighter design for a younger user, the Jungle King 3 sheath keeps some of the character, but has less detail.

A simple cord leg-tie lace is included and needs to be knotted to use. Despite the simplification, Aitor have still included the iconic folding slingshot arms. The back of the sheath has a strip of webbing running along it (we’ll come back to this).
For the Jungle King 3, the retention strap uses a press stud and the belt loop has a quick-release toggle to open and allow it to be fitted to a belt without undoing the belt.

A good look round the Jungle King 3’s Kit – Things to look out for here are:

For the smallest in the Jungle King series, the sheath ‘kit’ is not really a kit, it comprises only the slingshot bands, tucked behind that webbing strip on the back of the sheath.

A good look round the Jungle King 3 Knife – Things to look out for here are:

Onto the Jungle King 3 Knife itself. Stepping away from the all metal construction, instead the handle is made from fibreglass-reinforced polyamide. As well as being epoxied into the handle, the blade tang has a roll-pin driven through it to strengthen the join.
A hollow grind is used for the primary bevel, and the spine has a double-bevel serrated edge. The Jungle King 3 is also individually HRC tested and this test indentation is identified with an engraving on the blade to highlight it.
For the Jungle King 3, the compass is always visible in the end of the tail-cap (although you do need to remove it to use it as the blade affects the compass direction). Unscrewing the tail-cap reveals the brass thread inserts used to ensure the threads last well. Inside the handle is a slim survival capsule kit plus a combination tool designed to fit round the capsule. This tool has a can/bottle opener, pry tool and flat head screwdriver.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from MoVa / DIN 1.4116 which is identical to X50CrMOV15 steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Remembering all these factory edges were around 500 BESS, which is not sufficient for my testing, they look quite good under magnification, but all needed to be reprofiled. The Jungle King 2 was the best of the three from the factory, but all these knives were utterly transformed by a good edge.

Jungle King 1

Jungle King 2

Jungle King 3

Part 1 ends here with the review videos included below. See Part 2 for all the practical testing and insights plus a unique insight into the madness of UK knife law.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 1:

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 2:

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 3:

Onto a full video review covering many more details of all three:

Gear Review: KMFS Vantaedge Integral Sharpener

12 May, 2025

STOP! Join me in this KMFS Vantaedge sharpener review to find out exactly why the KMFS Vantaedge integral sharpener is UNIQUE amongst guided sharpeners. The KMFS Vantaedge uses reverse kinematics to adjust the stone position constantly so that the angle of the stone to the blade is always the same, regardless of the length, shape, depth or position of the knife blade in the clamp.

The KMFS Vantaedge integral is the first guided sharpener that is able to completely eliminate the cutting edge angle drift at the tip of the knife, and makes it incredibly easy to achieve absolutely precise repeated sharpening of the knife without needing to worry about what position it is clamped in.

And this angle block is at the heart of how it works (along with the height adjusting guide rod).

What’s in the box?:
This review features the standard KMFS Vantaedge Integral kit, plus the optional extras of the hover-spring kit, Ruby stone and diamond stropping kit.
The gallery below is a run through of all of these elements, starting with the Vantaedge integral kit in its plastic carry case, then the hover-spring with stroke limiter clips (used to limit the movement of the stone holder), the Ruby 3000 grit polishing stone and leather strops with diamond paste.

A good look round the KMFS Vantaedge integral Components – Things to look out for here are:
Taking all the parts of the Vantaedge Integral kit and laying them out on my guided sharpener board to look at them before fully assembling the sharpener. This gallery shows the standard kit with no optional extras.
Please ignore the clamping plate which is not part of the kit, but is what I use to hold various sharpeners onto this board; it is positioned middle-bottom of the first image and has a wing nut and hand wheel.
Stepping through the Vantaedge integral components, first is the base and support post, which are then assembled. Instead of using the fours screw fixing holes, I’ve used my clamping plate to hold one corner firmly in place on the board.
The knife clamp and vertical guide assembly fits onto the top of the support post. Consisting of two parts, the stone holder and rails slide together.
Now we move onto one of the central components of this unique design, the angle setting block. This has four fixed angles 15°, 17.5°, 20° and 22.5° with the bolt for the stone guide rails being fitted into the corresponding hole in the angle block. In this case my favoured 17.5°, and tightened fully down. Ready now to fit the stone you want to use in the spring loaded stone holder.

A good look round the assembled KMFS Vantaedge integral – Things to look out for here are:
Now fully assembled, we are ready to clamp a knife in the holder to start sharpening. It is when the knife is in place that the system can work to maintain the stone-to-edge angle at any point along the cutting edge.
When the standard kit is used as supplied, the angle is correctly created when you push down on the stone holder’s handle, which then lifts to angle block into place, locking in the angle. Adding in the hover-spring and the spring lifts the angle block so the stone is already at the set angle when you bring it down onto the knife edge.

A few re-profiled edges up close:

This section has been included show some high magnification photos of the re-profiled edges described in the next section. They do look a bit messy, but there are a couple of reasons for this. Firstly the stones are not run-in which makes the grit progression unsettled and unreliable leaving a lot of deeper scratches. And secondly, the lighting of the magnified camera is very unflattering showing all the worst aspects.
Also bear in mind these are the first views of a major reprofiling from about 45dps to 17.5dps so they are completely newly formed edges and subsequent resharpening with the finer grits will continue to improve them.

What is it like to use?

Please take a look at the videos produced for this review as these will give you some really detailed insights, lessons learned and tips.
Out of necessity, and as it was a good test, I had a few knives needing a full edge reprofiling. This is a lot of work on a manual system and can frequently cause fatigue leading to mistakes. I normally use a belt grinder to do the major part of the reprofile, so doing this by hand is a bit of a shock to the system, but has been very revealing in the use of the Vantaedge.
Something I’ll drop in right away is that I would consider the hover spring and stroke limiter add-on an essential. Without this you have two issues. It is all too easy to allow the stone to drop to a lower working angle than you want and cut away the shoulder of the edge bevel accidentally (caused by not quite applying enough downward pressure on the stone handle to fully lock in the angle) – the hover spring eliminates this issue entirely.
Then the stroke limiters; also caused by being distracted and fatigued, it is easy to overshoot the edge with the stone and the protective brass pins that stop your hand reaching the cutting edge still allow the corner of the stone to ride up onto the primary bevel scratching it. This is cosmetic damage and annoying when you do it (I was annoyed with myself). The stroke limiter clips can be arranged along the guide rods to prevent this happening (wish I had known this before I started the first reprofile).
So this means the main two issues I have with the standard kit are completely resolved by the hover-spring and stroke limiter add-on; just get this optional extra you won’t look back.
With the hover-spring and stroke limiters in place, the main difficulty is working right to the very tip. You can improve this by re-clamping the knife to just work the tip, but I’ll explain a little more. The way the angle fixing mechanism works it also stops the stone twisting along its length. This was actually making the stone miss the tip of the knife unless you work right to, and frequently slipping off, the side of the stone. I became a little more forceful with the stone holder, flexing the twin rod guide to make it reach the very tip without slipping off. To be able to clamp the knife so that the tip is presented perpendicular to the stone’s stroke you end up having to use only one side of the clamp. The special function of the KMFS system allows this to work by locking-in the correct angle, but the blade is less stable. As long as you are aware of this characteristic of the Vantaedge you can work with it. I found it best to use a marker pen like a metalworker’s layout fluid to show me if I was missing any of the tip and make sure I then re-clamped or flexed the stone holder to catch it.
Changing sides of the blade was very easy, with the stone and guide rods lifting effortlessly out of the clamp, allowing you to lift and flip the clamp, then reinsert the rod and carry on. Swapping stones in the sprung stone holder was also super easy and quick.
I did give myself quite a job with the major reprofiling of three blades, and although there was a lot of metal needing to be removed, the Vantaedge was a pleasure to use. From one session to another, the blade can be removed, checked, and re-clamped with no effect on the resulting edge angle. So much better than having to ensure the blade is positioned as closely to how it was the last time (checking notebooks, and measuring how it is clamped), you no longer even have to think about this, just clamp and go.

Having initially given myself the worst job I could to do, I also threw in a couple of smaller folding knife touch ups. This was much, much, much easier. What I found with the smaller blades was that it worked better for me using only one of the clamping jaws to hold the blade, but allowing the spine to press against the tips of the other clamp jaw for support, and to give easier access to the blade tip on the smaller blade.

Some of the results are shown here, with both phonebook-type paper cuts and BESS measurements. These are 100% from the Vantaedge with the largest blade having a hair popping 176g edge.

Touch-ups will be very easy, and if you have the space to leave the Vantaedge assembled and ready to go, you’ll only need a minute or two to get back to full sharpness without any fuss.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Overshooting with the stone scratches the primary bevel.
The very tip can be difficult to work properly.
If you don’t apply enough downward pressure the angle will be too low.
Hover-spring not included as standard (just get it).

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
The MOST consistent angle of any guided sharpening system FULL STOP.
Never need to worry about clamping position, the angle will be correct.
Super smooth action thanks to linear bearings for all guide rods.
Quick and easy touch-ups.
3000 grit Ruby stone leaves a fantastic working edge.
Optional leather strops can be used with or without diamond paste.
Hover-spring kit with stroke limiters transforms the Vantaedge – get them.
Superb engineering and attention to detail.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto an Epic Review Movie feature length video covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Light Review: NITECORE EDC29

16 February, 2025

NITECORE EDC29 Luminblade, a Detailed Review – The EDC29 is the latest, largest and most powerful of the ultra-slim, high performance lights and now features a maximum rated output of 6500 lumens in the ‘Lumin Shield’ mode. Can it really output 6500 Lumens? Tactical Reviews tests the actual output the results; all will be revealed in this NITECORE EDC29 Luminblade Review.
Classified a ‘Luminblade’ the EDC29’s ‘Lumin Shield’ is specified as 6500 Lumens; Luminblade, Lumin Shield, Lumens almost getting me tongue tied in the review videos!! This maximum output is from the dual NiteLab UHi 20 MAX LEDs and is powered by a built-in 2500mAh li-ion battery which is rechargeable via USB-C.

What is in the box?:
The EDC29 is securely held in a tray insert you side out of the box. In the lower section are a USB-C charging cable, clip lanyard, instructions and warranty card.

A good look round the EDC29 – Things to look out for here are:
Immediately the EDC29’s armoured design and grip panels give it a unique and striking look. The EDC29 features stainless steel shells front and back that clamp firmly onto a carbon fibre composite frame. On the back is a long pocket clip with integral lanyard hole. A very welcome addition on the EDC29 is the sliding lockout switch. The multi-functional OLED display provides real-time information on the brightness level, battery voltage, remaining runtime and remaining power.
Two two-stage tail switch buttons control the various outputs, with direct access to the Search and Lumin Shield wall-of-light tactical modes. On the opposite side to the lockout switch is a covered USB-C charging port.
Lurking in the head of the EDC29 are dual NiteLab UHi 20 MAX LEDs – TWO monster 9 core LEDs! All along the EDC29, the carbon fibre composite frame is visible through cut-outs in the stainless shell.

The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

With the constant output modes and the tactical modes being so far apart, representing the beam is not that easy. High, is 1200lm, which is perfectly bright, but then the Search and Lumin Shield blow this away. So in this gallery I have attempted to give an idea of the highest constant mode with the maximum output. For the indoors then outdoor photos, it starts with High (which doesn’t look that much as it is in direct comparison to the even higher modes), then Search, then Lumin Shield. The outdoor set show this more clearly as there is more range and variation.

Quick comparison to the EDC27:
I’ve been carrying the EDC27 for some time, and even this light surprised me, so it makes sense to do a quick comparison of the EDC27 and EDC29 side-by-side. Consider the maximum output has jumped to more than double, so the EDC29 is a little bigger. I am most certainly not retiring the EDC27, it has some limitations with the lockout process that the EDC29 fixes, but has a lot to offer. However, in my EDC bag the EDC29 has taken its place.
This gallery shows you the overall shape/size comparison.

Batteries and output:

The EDC29 runs on a built-in 2500mAh li-ion battery.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Light Testing Information.

Starting off with a quick list of the manufacturer specified levels and runtime:

Lumin Shield (floodlight): 6500 lumens
Search (spotlight): 3000 lumens
High: 1200 lumens – 2 hrs runtime
Mid: 400 lumens – 3 hrs runtime
Low: 100 lumens – 13 hrs runtime
Ultralow: 15 lumens – 61 hrs runtime

The Tactical Reviews actual measured output figures, normally list ANSI measurements, but the Search and Lumin Shield outputs are shorter than the 30s required for ANSI, so these are handled differently. Both are around 8s in duration and drop from the turn-on output.

In this table I have included ‘peak’ – momentary initial output burst, and ‘mid-run’ – the level halfway through the short run of these ultra-high modes. As both drop to ‘high’ mode after the maximum output, the ANSI output would actually match the high mode. Instead we have access to a brief dazzling wall of light. And yes, the EDC29 does meet and exceed the 6500 lm specified. By quite some margin!

Then we get onto the maximum constant output mode run. This is carried out with cooling fan allowing the light to keep a higher output than without any cooling. It does mean the runtime is lower, as the output level is higher. I mention this as the specified runtime for this mode is 2 hours, but this graph shows the end of the runtime at one hour. However this entire hour is actually at 90% of rated output rather than a more significant sag.

The EDC29 in use

Nitecore have nailed the interface, the direct access to the lowest and highest modes, the dedicated sliding lockout switch, mode pre-selection, and OLED screen keeping you informed. All of this makes it so usable, I can’t stress strongly enough how these features give you easy control and access to exactly what you want.

Now, for me, the ‘ultra-low’ mode is most definitely NOT ultra-low, and I would want this to ideally be sub-lumen (less than 1 lumen). For those middle-of-the-night, with dark adapted eyes, need for some light, the EDC29’s ultra-low is actually blinding so I would ceiling-bounce this if I had no one else to consider.

Like all of these wonderful multi-function lights, they are not really ‘tactical’. High stress situations need one mode, one button, fully accessible switch designs you can mash without any feeling through a thick glove. The EDC29 is operated by dual-stage buttons on the tail of the torch which you can’t feel through a glove, and the dual-stage cannot be felt through a glove either. This is not a criticism of the EDC29, only a reality of its super functional design.
The ‘customisable’ button, the one you use for Search and Lumin Shield, is effectively slightly recessed. This is just as well as it turns on the maximum output. But it means it is less accessible for a gloved thumb. Without gloves, it can be a little too easy to press if you try to reach over it to the main power button, so when I’m using the normal modes, I make sure I hold the EDC29 with that main power button towards my thumb, not away. Take a look at this gallery for this.

Also in the gallery you can see the Search / Lumin Shield, count down power meter. The reality is you are never going to watch this as you use it, but while you are getting used to the EDC29 and how it works, it is very helpful to see the countdown and recovery for these modes.

A great advantage of the OLED screen is being able to check the battery state. Having not kept much of an eye on the voltage being displayed, the EDC29 told me the battery was low, in words. I actually wanted to empty the battery so I could get an idea of the capacity when recharging it from empty. With the charger I use (QC intelligent), the EDC29 was taking 1.44A input on the 5V charge output. This particular charge cycle put 2300mAh into the 2500mAh battery, so I probably could have pushed the EDC29 a little further before recharging.

Multi-function lights can be fiddly to use, and introduce complexity and confusion. For the EDC29 Nitecore have managed to combine functionality and ease of use. The dedicated lockout switch, for one, makes safe carry and immediate reactivation simple and intuitive. Information from the OLED screen ensures you know if it is time to top up the battery or if this isn’t needed. Permanent (assuming it is unlocked) direct access to the lowest mode via a half-press of the power button makes it the light you reach for, for all those little jobs. Similarly, the same direct access to a wall-of-light, means you feel it is ready to protect and serve. Mode pre-selection rounds up the excellent usability; checking and changing your pre-selected mode without actually turning it on is so useful.
You couldn’t hand the EDC29 to someone with no experience or knowledge without explaining a couple of things, but it is so easy understand they will be using it straight away.

NITECORE EDC29 Luminblade Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
‘Ultra-Low’ is not low enough at 17lm.
A little too easy to accidentally activate the Lumin Shield.
The pocket clip is very stiff.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Dedicated Lockout slider switch.
Direct access to the lowest output.
Direct access to the maximum output.
Informative OLED display.
Output mode pre-selection.
Slim profile.
Carbon Fibre composite frame.
Stainless Steel Armoured body.
USB-C charging.
Two NiteLab UHi 20 MAX 9-core LEDs.
Massive 8675 Lumen peak output!!

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Extrema Ratio AMF (A.M.F.)

13 February, 2025

Extrema Ratio AMF (Advanced Multi Function) a Detailed Review. My heart skipped a beat when I first saw Extrema Ratio‘s A.M.F. in an exhibition cabinet. Yes, it is a big knife, but it is because its design is inspired by a legendary classic of survival cutlery from the 1980s; and that classic happens to be one of my all time favourite knives! Join me in this Extrema Ratio AMF A.M.F. Review to see how Extrema Ratio have managed to surpass the classic in every way.

What’s in the box?:
The AMF arrives in a large, robust box, with a QC card. You certainly can’t miss this one!

A good look round the A.M.F.’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
Picking up on some of the details from the knife that inspired it, yet also being unmistakably Extrema Ratio. Front and back are well provisioned with webbing, giving you a wide variety of mounting options for both the AMF being mounted, and extras being mounted on the AMF. The leg tie is a nod back to the original sheath design.
On the back of the sheath the AMF comes with three 2M MOLLE systems straps, two of which also act as a belt loop.
Another distinctive feature is the Extrema Ratio removable/reversible/adjustable press-stud retention strap. The main body of the sheath has a tough liner to ensure the long blade stays where it should.

A good look round the A.M.F. – Things to look out for here are:
Just look at the purpose in that design; it is going to get the job done. It may be clearly inspired by the BMF, but Extrema Ratio have taken every aspect of this knife and made it their own. The aluminium guard has lashing points / lanyard holes, and a slight sweep forwards so the thumb can sit on the top guard much more comfortably than a straight guard. With the AMF being easy to strip down completely, this guard is removable as part of the strip down.
The cone shaped butt cap pommel leaves you in no doubt of the direct inspiration of the AMF. Extrema Ratio again making the design their own with the curved butt cap guard that is more usable and more protective than the original.
Completely new is the ability to strip down the knife for a deep clean, and this is achieved via a single hex bolt in the cone shaped butt cap.
For the handle, which on its own, you could recognise as Extrema Ratio thanks to the molded double finger grip, it is again inspired by an innovation of the original in its day (by using the cushioning material DuPont Hypalon for the handle), the AMF has a generous handful of shock absorbing Forprene.
Onto that 206mm long blade with simple clean lines and monster swedge defining its strong look.

The history of the legendary BMF:

This article is an Extrema Ratio AMF review, but I have to include some personal insights as the 1980s classic that is the inspiration for the AMF has been massively influential for me.

From the day I walked to the newsagents to pick up the latest issue of a magazine, it has been waiting 34 years for just this moment!! – A review of the BMF published in January 1991, along with the matching version of the BMF from my collection and Extrema Ratio’s AMF – improved in every aspect.

Some original text from Gerber:

Basic Multi-Function Survival Knife System™
Gerber’s BMF is the latest generation of survival knives. From its conception, the BMF was carefully researched and engineered to be the best survival knife available today.

This tough, heavy duty survival system is designed to withstand heavy use under the most extreme conditions. The 8-inch blade is ground from tough 1/4 inch thick high carbon surgical stainless steel, with Rockwell hardness of c54-55. We have purposely lowered the hardness several points to increase toughness. The chisel tooth saw is the result of countless experiments until we knew it was “just right”. It is designed for aggressive cutting of wood and other materials. The blade and stainless steel guards and but cap are treated with a non-reflective finish. The butt cap is specifically designed to endure heavy pounding, and is firmly attached to the full length blade tang. The most unique feature of the BMF is its revolutionary handle of highly compressed DuPont Hypalon. Hypalon’s semi-soft composition cushions the hand during heavy use, and provides a comfortable positive grip. Each BMF is hand-adjusted so that the point of balance is approximately at the front guard, which makes it comfortable to use, even during extended periods of heavy usage.

As much engineering and designed time went into the BMF sheath as the knife itself. Blackie Collins really “did himself proud” on this one. This sheath is made from black, heavy-duty DuPont Cordura and reinforced to provide protection for both the blade and user. Loaded with features, the sheath is specifically designed as a superior alternative to the hollow handle for carrying life sustaining and support accessories. It is compact and without protrusions to snag on brush or other objects in the field. Engineered to be silent, there are no hard surfaces other than rivets. A pocket at the top the sheath holds a quality, liquid-filled, jeweled compass. Permanently attached to the back of the sheath is a fine grain diamond sharpening hone, which is protected by a nylon cover when not in use. A unique accessory strap on the front of the sheath allows a folding knife sheath, survival, or other equipment to be attached. ALICE clips allow the BMF to be attached to standard issue military battle dress and harnesses. The ALICE clips are removable so that the BMF can be worn on a conventional belt. The BMF can be tied down to the leg or lashed to other equipment with nylon cord supplied with each sheath. (Dated June 1986)

The BMF was first released in January 1986 and discontinued in 1998. During this time it underwent a few changes and had 6 variations manufactured. I have managed to get hold of four of the six types with three pictured alongside the AMF in this gallery. The original 8″ plain, the 8″ saw back, and the 9″ plain version are shown here. The 8″ saw back was the hero-knife in the 1988 film Deadly Pursuit (aka Shoot to Kill).

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from N690 steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

These are showing a used edge, so the dirt on the edge is NOT from the factory, but from me using it. Also included is a close up of the engraving, just out of interest.

What is it like to use?

The AMF is exactly the handful it is meant to be; Unashamedly big, bold and striking!

For a little perspective, this gallery starts with the AMF blade next to Extrema Ratio’s BF1 CD folder, the overall open length of which is less than just the AMF’s blade. Even with my XL Glove sized hands, the AMF’s handle fills my hand while being super comfortable, and cushioning in hard use.

At 206mm the AMF’s blade is not a full-on chopper, but it is a big knife that is very capable of chopping. The large comfortable, cushioning and secure handle make it so easy to really lay into the chopping task. It found myself easily powering through this pallet chop. Actually you can see how much striking power there is, as the last half of the board was broken before it could be cut.
A dry oak branch happened to be to hand; again thanks to the firm grip, this hard wood shaved easily and smoothly, submitting to the AMF’s blade with minimal effort.

Though it is a large knife with a large sheath, Extrema Ratio have improved every aspect of the knife that inspired the AMF, making it really worth carrying. The action of sheathing and unsheathing is easier and better, and the sheath is simpler and lighter (the original had a metal belt hanger and diamond sharpener on the back, plus permanent pouch). You have webbing so you can carry more on the sheath if you want, but you are not forced to.
AMF’s hand filling handle is so comfortable, and when chopping there is no shock transferred to your hand, making it feel effortless. And still Extrema Ratio managed to give it their distinctive style.
As Extrema Ratio’s main choice of steel, N690 massively upgrades the original 440-A, in hardness, toughness and corrosion resistance. The BMF is notorious for rusting badly, mainly from its blasted surface (re-finished blades appear much less prone to rusting). The N690 used in the AMF is in a different league. Obviously I can’t replicate 40 years of storage for the AMF, but I am highly confident this will never be an issue for the AMF.
Extrema Ratio’s reinterpretation of the guards, make them so much more functional. The rear guard, by curving round the fingers, makes it much more protective, and also keeps it out of the way when using the knife; a small change and a massive improvement. The front guard, being slightly shorter and pushed forward allows the thumb to be able to push on it. The lower part of the front guard protrudes slightly further to enhance the protection it provides.
None of the long spine or swedge is sharpened for fire steel scraping, but I’m fine with that. As it is, it has a more genuine feel of the classic that inspired it, and you are better off having a small scraper with any firesteel you choose to carry.
Maybe it is that wide comfortable handle, but somehow Extrema Ratio have managed to make this large knife not feel that large in the hand. It handles much better than it should and feels easier to use than knives this size tend to feel.

Though I didn’t get it dirty enough to justify a strip down, I wanted to see how Extrema Ratio had approached this. The original does not take down, so this is a new feature. A single hex bolt in the cone shaped butt cap releases everything. First the cone coming off, then the rear guard, that fits closely enough it doesn’t just fall off. When slipping off the handle this then reveals the use of a specially shaped captive nut in the end of the tang which gives several benefits. Firstly it spreads the load of the butt cap bolt, it also allows a different metal to be used for the threads than is used for the blade tang, and lastly it brings in some ‘compliance’ when tightening the butt cap bolt so all the parts can find the best contact points and settle firmly, making it more secure and less likely to loosen. A nice detail you won’t see unless you strip the knife down, so I’ve done it for you.

Even if you don’t have that connection to the classic 80s knife like I do, the AMF stands on its own feet and is just a great knife.

Extrema Ratio AMF Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
The handle might be too large for some people.
The 2M MOLLE straps don’t feel in keeping with the AMF’s quality.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
A Classic Reborn!
Improved in every way over the original.
Unmistakably Extrema Ratio.
Strips down for cleaning.
Ultra-comfortable handle.
Shock absorbing grip (especially when chopping).
N690 steel.
Captive tang nut.
Great protection from forward and rear finger guards.
A BIG knife (always makes you smile).
Highly versatile sheath mounting.
Everything else about it!

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Viper TURN

11 February, 2025

Viper TURN a Detailed Review – The TURN is a folding knife designed by Fabrizio Silvestrelli, blending tradition, practicality and modern construction techniques. We’ll also be seeing how, in this Viper TURN Review how distinctively ‘Viper’ this knife is. The TURN’s blade is Böhler M390 steel and described by Viper as having ‘a bold counter-bevel’ on the satin finish blade. A double stepped-cone thumb-stud allows easy opening with either hand. Unusually for a back-lock, TURN uses ball bearings for the pivot to ensure a smooth and fluid rotation of the blade. This Viper TURN review features the Essential G10 version that includes a deep-carry titanium pocket clip.

What’s in the box?:
Or should that be ‘Where is the box?’. As mentioned in the video, this was a display knife at IWA 2024 so is being reviewed without any of the normal packaging. So here it is in a bag, and not in a bag!

A good look round the closed TURN – Things to look out for here are:

Being the ‘Essential’ model, there are no bolsters, instead the handle material covers the entire side of the knife. Around the pivot bolt is an extra washer detail. A singe position deep-carry titanium pocket clip is fitted in a tip-up right-handed location. The polished lock bar has grip grooves on the release ‘button’ and thumb grip jimping at the other end. Full length stainless steel liners provide the main structure. A pair of stepped-cone thumb-studs make the blade opening ambidextrous.

A good look round the open TURN – Things to look out for here are:

Swinging open that gloriously wide blade, and as we open it you see the lock bar action in operation. Thumb grip jimping spans the lock / blade contact point forming the clean ‘H’. Very stylish contouring of the G10 handles creates a grip shaping your fingers will settle into. That ‘bold counter-bevel’ is something I would describe as an elongated harpoon style swedge, and bold it certainly is.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from M390 steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

What is it like to use?

Viper describe the blade as having ‘high bevels’, and indeed it does, in fact verging on the full-flat grind apart from that bold swedge. It is an excellent blade geometry for eager slicing and the TURN is indeed a very efficient cutter.
I’d classify it as a mid-sized folder, large enough for most ever day jobs, and small enough to be easy to carry.
Viper’s stepped-cone thumb-stud has drawn blood on previous occasions on other knives, and could easily do so again. They are a bit on the sharp side and it is when I’ve had hardened skin on my thumb (from too much knife opening) that the cone shape has punctured/cracked this skin and I’ve ended up bleeding over the knife. Grippy these thumb-studs are, but also high pressure.

This might be the ‘Essential’ version of the TURN, but it is still lovely to look at. The blend of a traditional back-lock folder layout with a modern, efficient, cutting blade profile, using high performance materials and features that increase its usability is spot-on.
Viper’s signature polished spacer and lock bar contrast with the bead blast liners and black G10, giving the TURN a distinctive and stand-out look.
If I had to pick one position for the pocket clip, it is exactly where Viper have positioned it. Tip-up, right-handed; it is going to be best for the majority, and for the left-handed it only needs one small adjustment before opening.
The near-full-flat grind makes the TURN a fantastic slicer, and with great control too. The relatively wide blade adds to stability during cutting, so it is a real pleasure to use.

Review Summary – Viper TURN Review

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Thumb-stud a bit ‘sharp’.
Single position clip.
Potential hot-spots on the grip.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Excellent fit and finish.
M390 blade steel.
Classic Back-Lock.
Super-smooth blade action.
Ambidextrous opening.
Powerful slicing geometry.
Deep-carry pocket clip.
Premium satin blade finish.
Refined style.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: lionSTEEL T6

8 February, 2025

T6 is the newest addition to the lionSTEEL
fixed blade family, it sits in between the M7 and the T5 in terms of size. Join me in this detailed review of the lionSTEEL T6, the biggest of the T-series. Featuring a strong CPM 3V steel blade and a lionSTEEL SOLID handle; milled out of a single Canvas micarta block, ensuring a firm and safe grip.

A design by Molletta, the T6 has an aggressive profile and is ideal when you need a robust and easy to handle heavy duty knife. From making a fire to food preparation, the LionSteel T6 has got you covered.

Supplied with its Kydex sheath that has a reversible Cordura structure with MOLLE system for secure and easy mounting.

What’s in the box?:
Nice and simple, just the T6 and a leaflet.

A good look round the T6 sheath – Things to look out for here are:
There is a lot to see here, with an excellent combination of a hollow rivet construction Kydex sheath, with a highly functional MOLLE hanger and leg-tie cord. Though the Kydex retention is all you need to secure the knife, there is a removable retention strap which adds extra stability when needed. A good size drainage hole in the base of the Kydex, will help look after the blade, especially with this being a non-stainless steel. The multi-functional mounting platform is attached to the Kydex sheath with four Chicago screw-bolts and means you can remove it completely, swap it round for left handed carry, or tweak the position. Straps for PALS / MOLLE mounting can also be configured as a belt loop. A super flexible sheath and mount.

A good look round the T6 – Things to look out for here are:
It has been love at first sight for me. The T6 has a really powerful, purposeful look, and does not disappoint. Just take in those lines.
With lionSTEEL’s ‘SOLID’ handle, the T6 has a single piece of micarta milled to perfectly sit over the blade’s full tang. Both the blade and handle have an incorporated finger guard, with the blade’s just slightly protruding to better protect the micarta, which protects you. The tang also slightly protrudes at the butt to form a striker, or striking surface. Simple flowing lines in the micarta create an ergonomic and comfortable handle, a perfect for connecting you to that wide strong blade.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from CPM 3V steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

The factory edge is a great cutter, even better than the good (but not great) BESS sharpness figures. These magnified images of the edge explain this as you can see the micro-serrations in the 3V steel.

What is it like to use?

It is one thing to see and just hold the T6, and another to really put it to use. In use, the T6 really surprised me as it feels like a much smaller and more nimble knife than it should for its size. It is a large heavy, wide-bladed, knife, it is. I have to remind myself and if you just pick it up to look at it and not use it, it still feels exactly that.

Then you start to work with it, and it just seems to work with you.

A quick check of the edge before getting on with the tasks at hand. Popping the sheath on my belt, and fitting the leg-tie cord (which I leave a little slack as this cord has no give in it). I’ll probably add in some elastic to the leg cord so it has some give and won’t restrict movement. The sheath sits very flat to your body and re-sheathing needs a quick glance when you have clothing partly in the way.
I keep thinking it looks like the muscle car of the knife world, and wants to be admired as much as to cut.
The blade geometry, and weight, get behind each cut. Combine this with an amazingly comfortable handle, and the cuts become so much easier than you expect. Making a type of feather-cut on a board and before I knew it I’d gone through the entire board.
Batoning for splitting, and if anything it had a tendency not to follow the grain and instead to bite in and cut in the direction you strike it. Either way, the wide blade’s depth means the wood usually splits before the spine reaches the top of the wood being split, so you can just strike straight down onto the split and don’t have to fight against each strike trying to twist the knife.

Onto pallet cutting, and the first image showing an initial single strike. The depth of cut is good, and after this, nice sized chunks of timber fly out as the T6 cuts and ejects – you can see the ‘steps’ formed in the wood during this board chop.
Last in this gallery is the T6 being batoned into a pallet board, the depth achieved here with medium effort, is about double a single chop, but the wedge effect then prevents further progress due to the thickness of the blade stock. In this case the overall effort is lower if just chop into the board compared to batoning.

So far, lionSTEEL’s stance on the T6 is to go with ultra-tough super-carbon steels, with the first run being K490 and this next production run in CPM 3V. 3V is not a stainless steel and will form a patina and rust if not maintained, but its virtual indestructibility means you will forgive it this minor weakness. For me, however, with the choice of great stainless steels, I do not like having to maintain a knife against rust, so I have been asking lionSTEEL to make the T6 in a stainless…I will continue to nag. Unlike myself, many will see the 3V as a massive positive, and as a working steel it will do you proud.

The love for the T6 is still as strong as from my first sighting of the prototype, looks and performance, plus that ability to feel lighter and more nimble than it should, mean the T6 makes you want to keep picking it up.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
Not stainless steel. – Yeah, I think that is all I’m less keen on.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Incredibly comfortable and stable in the hand.
SOLID micarta handle has no ‘hotspots’.
Feels light and nimble (for its size).
Super tough CPM 3V.
Purposeful looks.
Wide blade adds control.
Highly functional sheath.
MOLLE / PALS compatible.
Firm (but not too firm) Kydex retention.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Spyderco Military 2

6 February, 2025

Spyderco’s Military 2 – The 2024 Update of a Classic. The original Spyderco Military Model was designed in 1996, and is a tried and tested knife, proven to be a robust and reliable tool. Building on the strengths of the original design, the Military 2 is refined and updated, bringing in improvements where they make a real difference. Larger stainless steel liners give the knife increased structural strength and also allow the addition of four pocket clip fixing positions. A major switch has been made away from a liner lock and to the signature Spyderco Compression Lock improving safety and handling. Join me in this detailed review of the Spyderco Military 2.

Is the ‘New and Improved’ Spyderco Military 2 actually an improvement? Read on to find out.

What’s in the box?:
This Military 2 comes in the familiar Spyderco box. Included with the knife is a sticker and a leaflet about the exact model of knife.

A good look round the closed Military 2 – Things to look out for here are:

Some of the more obvious updates are easy to spot straight away. The extra pocket clip fitting positions, and compression lock on the back of the handle. Notably missing is the liner lock handle cut-out that normally affects the grip, as the Military 2 now uses a different lock. There is no longer a hole in the clip mount to access the pivot bolt; should you continue to use the clip in a tip-down position, you may need to take it off to adjust the pivot. Next to the compression lock lever, the liners include some thumb grip jimping. Having a choice of all four pocket clip positions is a massive improvement, as clip position is quite a personal choice, and depending if you pocket carry or put onto webbing, you might want to swap this around from time to time. Phosphor-bronze washers; my favourite for stability and reliability.

A good look round the open Military 2 – Things to look out for here are:

Opening up the blade to reveal that long, eager edge. This is a Large folder, no mistaking that. Now we have the blade open you can see the compression lock engaged in the locked position. Thanks to the change of lock, the handle shape can be optimised for grip instead of incorporating the liner lock cut out, so we have improved first-finger grip shaping. Large blade – Large opening hole.

Explained by the Maker:
Spyderco describe the Military 2 as follows.

Designed by Spyderco co-founder Sal Glesser as the perfect knife for forward-deployed military personnel, the original Military Model is one of the cutlery industry’s most iconic designs. More than 25 years after its original release, the eagerly anticipated Military 2 builds on that hard-earned reputation while incorporating several significant design improvements. Instead of a LinerLock, the Military 2’s full-flat ground CPM® S30V® blade is supported by Spyderco’s signature Compression Lock® mechanism, which offers greater strength and even safer one-handed operation. The stainless steel liners that form the foundation of the lock are larger, giving the knife increased structural strength and anchoring its four-position pocket clip, which is configurable for left or right-side, tip-up or tip-down carry. The skeletonized liners are nested within peel-ply-textured G-10 scales to maintain a slim profile and complement its open-backed construction to reduce the knife’s overall weight. A proud successor to a legendary design, the Military 2 is ready to serve.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from S30V steel.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Spyderco’s factory edges are reliably excellent.

What is it like to use?

We all know what ‘New and Improved’ typically means for our favourite products…it normally means ‘cheaper to manufacture and worse’. Typically.

What about the Military 2, what have Spyderco done to our beloved Military? Well, they have, in fact, made it better. This is not to say the original Military, if Spyderco continue to make the classic, no longer has a place; it is still the classic liner lock it always was. If you pick up the Military and swap to the Military 2 and back, fundamentally they are the same with a long pointy blade, long handle, and powerful cutting ability. Instead it is in the more subtle refinements that the Military 2 shows it improvements, those small differences in regular actions and handling that start to shine through.

General handling makes a couple of those updates all the more apparent. The forward choked-up position now has the proper first finger shaping and grip; it just fits and sits better. Open and close, open and close, and the ease the Compression lock brings also shines through. One-handed closing becoming a breeze with the lock released, and the blade falling closed under its own weight, made safer as you do not need to put your hand in the blade’s path to unlock it.

I absolutely love a big folder, and the Military 2 just wanted to get to work, so who am I to stand in the way! The blade reach is excellent, making all the jobs I deployed it for quick and easy. Over and over those two biggest changes, the lock and improved grip shape making the knife itself almost disappear and the jobs complete themselves. For me the Tip-Up clip position and right-handed side means that as I draw the knife out of my pocket, the handle is already in the right orientation and my thumb finds the opening hole immediately, so I have swapped the clip over to this location from the factory position.
Though it is a heavy duty knife, the fineness of the blade has always made me wonder a little. Personally I’ve never had a Spyderco full-flat blade (or any other) fail on me in use, but it is just with the Military 2, the blade is very long. For part of the testing I decided to baton it through pallet wood cross-grain, cutting not splitting. That slicey blade shape just falls through the boards, and comes back out as easily. No gentle tap here, I was full swing pounding on it, and no concerns at all. Obviously it is easy to actually abuse a blade, and I was not trying to do this, but instead just work it hard. It took all this in its stride.

Is the Military 2 true to the original Military model? – Yes.
Is the Military 2 an improvement over the original Military model? – I certainly say Yes.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
No sharpening choil.
The peeled G10 is very abrasive to your pocket.
It makes me want all the different versions of the Military 2.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Compression lock.
It is a Large folder.
Very slicey and pointy blade.
Improved grip shaping over its predecessor.
Phosphor-bronze pivot washers.
Four-position pocket clip.
Full length steel liners.
Excellent factory edge.
‘New and Improved’ – Yes it is.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Aitor Commando

4 February, 2025

The Legendary AITOR Commando – a Detailed Review of the Aitor Commando knife, taking a fresh look for 2025.

The Aitor Commando was originally developed together with the German manufacturer Mauser for the German Army. Designed to be a powerful, durable and reliable fixed blade knife. Ready for any situation, the robust blade is made of MoVa, and features a saw back. The lightweight and textured aluminium handle holds a comprehensive survival kit inside: Fishing set, sewing kit, tweezers, plasters and a scalpel blade.

This style of knife may have fallen out of favour for those demanding the most robust, full-tang blades made with super steels and other exotic materials, but there was a time when a well made hollow handle knife was king (and in fact even the poorly made copy that ended up giving them all a bad name). The reason they were so popular was because they are fun, and I have a feeling knife enthusiasts have forgotten about having fun with interesting designs that don’t need to be strong enough to survive being run over by a tank. I’m letting my hair down (all 3mm of it), shaking loose and letting myself enjoy picking up and using this classic design.

What’s in the box?:
Nice a simple, the knife is in the box. Nothing unnecessary, just a box to deliver the knife to you in.

A good look round the Commando’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

I’ve found the next two galleries in this Aitor Commando review have ended up quite a bit larger than usual, as there are many details to see. It is these details that all add to the overall interest and make the Commando a different experience.
At the base of the sheath there is a simple, adjustable, quick release leg strap cord, with the same cord used for the basic wrist lanyard. The knife retention strap uses a military style quick release pull tab closure. Pull the tab out, and the buckle opens freely. The same quick release pull-tab closure is used for the belt loop, allowing you to fit the sheath to your belt without undoing your belt.
Within the sheath is extra storage, (originally for small flares), allowing you to add whatever is most useful to you.
A length of cord wraps the lower section of the sheath, which covers up an integrated sharpening stone.

A good look round the Commando – Things to look out for here are:

Out of the box, the blackness of the blade finish is striking, making the whole package very ‘dark’. The Commando has presence, and overall the package is substantial. Unlike most traditional hollow handle knives, the Commando’s handle is a molded metal casting that allows for complex shaping, and includes three finger grooves, an integrated guard with thumb ramp, grip texturing panels and the fittings for the blade tang and the cap for the storage inside the handle. Recessed into the butt, and low profile, the screw-fit tail-cap can be gripped either side and unscrewed to access the handle storage compartment. With the tail-cap unscrewed, a survival capsule pops out and you find the tail-cap has a small compass in it. To both prevent rattle and to make access easy, a spring is fitted at the bottom of the handle compartment.
With a subtle weight-forward blade shape, spear point and saw back, the Commando has a purposeful appearance.

A good look round the Survival Capsule – Things to look out for here are:

The survival capsule…usually this is opened straight away and then quickly lost, or just never touched. Of course the idea is to pack in as many useful things as possible, which might help you or make some survival tasks easier. Aitor’s survival capsule contains two standard plasters, a sterile No. 23 scalpel blade, tweezers, fire-steel, two small safety pins, two sewing needles, some thread, plus a fishing kit consisting of three pre-tied hooks, a longer piece of line and three split shot. (Plus, don’t forget that they can sometimes oddly useful, the two staples that closed the bag containing the fishing kit.)
All these things are better to have and not need, than to need and not have.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from MoVa steel. MoVa is identical in composition to the German blade steel 4116.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Though just about serviceable, this factory edge was immediately re-profiled and a 17.5 DPS edge put on for testing. Also included in this gallery are close-ups of two of the saw teeth.

What is it like to use?

Straight away, picking up the Commando, its all metal construction gives it a feeling of solidity. It might indeed have a hollow handle, and it might have a short roll-pinned tang, and so may not be as strong as a similar sized full tang knife, but frankly who cares? Unlike many of the cheap clones (the clones giving the entire concept a bad name), the Aitor Commando is all-metal, so it is strong, certainly strong enough.
In the hand, the metal handle is cold (which is definitely noticeable in cold weather). The cast handle is however, very comfortable and ergonomic, at least in hands the size of mine. Smaller hands might find it less well fitting.
The molded finger grips help with stability, and the integrated thumb ramp in the guard works well. It helps that the handle is a generous length, as you do need to back-up along the handle to be able to place your thumb on the ramp.

The Saw-back – Anyone who has used a saw-back on a knife knows that these are really only a notching tool. You can’t get much downward pressure and the teeth are not set, so once you cut down enough to have the blade stock in the notch it becomes progressively harder to cut.
Here I’m showing a cut which has started to bind up on the blade, followed by showing the cut before and after tapping the saw and notch clean. The notch sides are nice and crisp, and this is useful for easily creating flat-sided notches, just not for full depth saw cuts.

Earlier I spoke of the deep black finish on the Commando’s blade. Following my initial sharpening, I use acetone to remove any stropping compound residue and generally clean up the blade. Of course this stripped off all the oil on the blade and shows the underlying matt black blade finish. Like any surface finish, oil always deepens the colour and once stripped off you see the true blade coating. You might also spot here where the forward part of the blade rubs more on the inside of the sheath where it is a tight finish, and has some rub marks in the blade finish. So don’t expect that deep deep black to last once you start using the Commando, but I actually prefer the ‘old black’ look.

Before testing the Commando, I wasn’t happy with the factory edge, so re-profiled to 17.5 DPS and stropped. The factory edge would not cleanly cut paper and card, but now I have a ‘telephone directory’ (or TV guide) slicer, which requires a saving sharp edge to cut without tearing.
Aitor’s Commando is a short tang hollow handle knife – can it chop? I gave it no quarter, and went for it chopping a tough pallet. Being a hollow-grind the depth of cut on each strike is slightly limited, but it still powered through without any concern. With a metal handle and metal roll pin, and a steel that has been left at the tougher end of hardening, the overall construction means this chopping was a walk in the park for the Commando. The new edge showing clean cuts all the way through.
It may be relatively weighty due to the all metal construction, but still lacks slightly on impact weight. As another test, I’ve switched to batoning the blade into the same type of wood, and am showing how once the blade gets past the shoulder of the hollow grind it stops making much progress. Viewed from above you can see how the blade is forcing apart the board and getting wedged in.
Not strictly feather-sticking, but making a tight series of cuts and the Commando outperformed my expectations. The large handle giving plenty of grip and the blade is long enough to allow it to be rested onto a cutting surface for extra control, and the Commando was slicing though this seasoned wood almost too easily.
At the end of testing the ‘telephone directory’ result was the same without any touch up or stropping, which was also beyond expectations.

Can you spot the deliberate mistake when getting my bearings? (The compass is pointing at the knife blade, not to the north.)

Times change, technology moves forward, and designs become outdated, preferences change, and for many this style of knife is a thing of the past. Hollow handle knives gained a poor reputation due to the vast number of cheap, horrifically-badly made hollow handle knives that quickly broke or bent, wouldn’t hold and edge and had dangerous sheaths. But this is not true of Aitor; The Aitor Commando quickly proves it is worthy of a place in your collection, a collection that are hopefully all ‘users’.
Aitor, established in 1939, have vast experience making hollow handle knives that are strong, hold an edge and make this style of knife worth adding into your lineup to give you something different and interesting to use, and the Commando happens to be a true classic.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________
By current standards it is on the heavy side.
No visible drainage holes in the sheath.
Tight fit in the sheath (could have issues with a dirty blade).
Saw back cuts into the sheath (true of any saw back).

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________
Fun to use.
All metal construction.
Large ergonomic handle.
Generous storage in knife handle and sheath.
Survival capsule included in handle.
Integrated (backup) sharpener.
Includes emergency cord neatly wrapped on the sheath.
Pull-tab quick-release closures for retention strap and belt loop.
Saw-back works well for notching.
Takes and holds an edge well enough despite low hardness.
Lower hardness makes field maintenance easier.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Gear Review: Silky Saw Teeth

28 January, 2025

Silky have a reputation for high quality saws that cut cleanly and have a long life, making them especially sought after and popular with those in the know. With a great saw, the secret is in its teeth, the size and shape of those teeth making all the difference. Silky produce a dazzling array of different saws with many types and size of teeth. Join me in a Detailed Review of four examples of Silky saw teeth. Silky Saws – It is all about the Teeth.

This review features four different saws, with three main teeth spacings (20, 14 and 8 Teeth per 30mm), that manage to span Silky’s major categories of teeth which are as follows:

Extra Large Teeth – Typically, this saw will be for use in forestry or heavy duty arborist work. The teeth configuration will range between 3 and 7 teeth per 30mm and will give a very aggressive cut. In general you will be surprised by the smoothness of the cut.

Large Teeth – A saw with large teeth will be ideal for use in heavy/medium pruning tasks, root cutting and construction. The number of teeth will range between 7 and 8 teeth per 30mm. An aggressive and smooth cut will be achieved.

Medium Teeth – Ideal for pruning work or construction, a medium teeth configuration usually has 10 teeth per 30mm and will give a cleaner finish when compared to larger teeth saws.

Fine Teeth – These saws are likely to be used for gardening and woodworking. A fine teeth configuration typically comprises of 13 to 20 teeth per 30mm and will achieve a clean finish.

Extra Fine Teeth – These saws will have very fine teeth ideal for woodworking. Ranging between 20 and 32 teeth per 30mm, a very smooth finish can be expected.

What’s in the box?:

Before getting right in to the teeth, a quick overview of all the saws on test. This is the test group all together.

The Pocketboy 130mm 342-13:
As with all of the models shown, there are typically many options for each, including handle colour, and actual blade specifications. This is the 20 teeth per 30mm Pocketboy.

The F180 180mm 141-18:
Fitted with one of the finer blade options of the F180, this example has 14 teeth per 30mm.

The Super Accel Z1 210mm 728-21:
For the Z1 it has the coarse curved blade with 8 teeth per 30mm.

The Outback Gomboy Curve 752-24:
With a thicker ‘Outback Edition’ specification blade, the Gomboy is the mid-sized Outback saw rated for wood and bone.

The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on knife factory edges, but for a saw, the quality of this is critical and is what makes a good saw great. Most modern saws can’t be re-sharpened, and those that can require a different skill. Silky sell replacement blades for all these saws, so when looking at these it is as disposable blades.

In these close up images, the saw teeth are at the same scale, and with a millimetre (with half millimetre divisions) ruler in shot. The gallery has the images in the same order as they have been shown above.

It is all about the Teeth and how they cut;

There are several standard factors you would consider for any saw and the specific cut you need to make, in order to get the best result. Teeth spacing needs to be appropriate for the hardness of material being cut, the size of the workpiece, and the required finish. Another important aspect is if there grain in the material, and if so, is the cut along or across the grain. Teeth will also be oriented for cutting on the pull stroke or the push stroke, with all the Silky Saws included in this review article being a pull cut.

One saw blade may also include teeth with different functions. In this review the Super Accel Z1 and Gomboy Outback edition, both have four different teeth; right and left hand cutting teeth, plus right and left hand swarf clearance teeth, that help clear the dust from the cut.

The accompanying review videos clearly show the cutting actions of each saw in green wood and seasoned wood, at normal speed and slow speed. What photos can’t show well, but the videos do, is the swarf clearance, speed of cut, and how smoothly the blade runs, so to really understand that for each of the teeth types being tested, please take a look at the section in the video. The video shows the F180 having a tendency to judder in both the green and seasoned wood; despite this the cut quality is excellent, completing with the PocketBoy for the cleanest cut thanks to the ultra-sharp teeth.

Knife serrations are effectively saw teeth, and just as for serrations, the tooth spacing affects the size of material you can comfortably cut. If the material is thinner than the tooth spacing it will catch in the teeth as they can’t ride over it smoothly. Cutting technique can overcome this (speed and angle of approach), but it is best to have an appropriate tooth spacing for the job.

As well as the smaller material size it can be used on, the smaller the tooth spacing, the finer the cut finish is. In the gallery below this is most clearly shown with the seasoned wood test cuts and the finest teeth giving the smoothest cuts.

There is no absolute right and wrong choice, only better or worse choices. Frequently the best choice being the one you have with you. Better understanding the characteristics of each type of saw tooth will help you have the best option with you more of the time. In these tests I was pleasantly surprised at the usability and effectiveness of the coarser teeth in seasoned wood with impressive speed of cut, and Silky’s quality saw teeth making an excellent job of it.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format introductory sixty second review:

Onto a full video review covering many more details and cutting examples of Silky Saw Teeth:

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.