Knife Review: MKM Jaques Slipjoint

In this detailed review of the MKM (Maniago Knife Makers) Jaques – a modern slip joint Folding Knife – find out if it could be your ideal EDC companion.

The MKM Jaques is a slip joint folding knife designed by Jesper Voxnaes. The Jaques has a satin finish CPM MagnaCut Wharncliffe blade, and the version in this review features Fat Carbon DARK MATTER BLACK handles.

“The Jaques design is my modern take on the folders I have seen used by European winegrowers in both Italy and France but mixed with details from some of my favourite American slip joint patterns. A nice sized utility folder, in high-end materials, with great feel in hand. A perfect for EDC for urban and outdoor settings.” Jesper

Read on in this MKM Jaques Review for all the details.

What’s in the box?:
For this section there is no box or packaging to include, as this specific knife was a ‘show knife’ at IWA Outdoor Classics 2025 (and possibly other exhibitions). It also means that in the following galleries, any imperfections will be due to the knife being handled by a lot of people during the trade fair.


A good look round the folded MKM Jaques – Things to look out for here are:
With this version, the DARK MATTER BLACK handles compliment the bronze titanium bolsters/liners perfectly. Each and every knife with this handle material is unique, and the handle scales are secured to the combined bolster and liner with three screws. A single position stainless steel wire pocket clip, can be removed if you prefer not to use it. Only one side of the pivot bolt has a torx screw head, with the other being blank. The back-spring spacer is beautifully polished giving the Jaques a very refined look. The pivot specification states ball bearings. No bearings can be seen when looking into the knife, so these covered bearings should be more dust resistant than when you can see the ball bearings themselves.


A good look round the open MKM Jaques – Things to look out for here are:
Snapping the Jaque’s blade initially out to the half-stop position, we get a good view of the wide Wharncliffe blade. With the blade open we can more clearly see the handle shaping with two finger grooves; first finger and third finger. It’s a powerful full-flat grind Wharncliffe blade with elegant swedge sweeping down to the point, which also has an inconspicuously incorporated nail nick. MKM’s logo sits above the engraving of the steel type; Magnacut. Though not strictly a sharpening choil, the heel of the cutting edge does stand proud of the tang, and just forward of the plunge line; this allows the entire cutting edge to be sharpened. On the opposite side of the blade, the designer’s (Jesper Voxnaes) logo is engraved and onto more views of the blade.
Thumb grip jimping has been included across the ‘H’, and you can also see the small clearance step cut around the pivot to ensure the blade rotates without contacting the liner. Looking inside the handle you can see the stop pin for the blade tang to rest on when folded.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from Magnacut steel.

With the Jaques being a slip-joint folder, the resistance to closing (and related stiffness of opening) is an important factor, so for this I carry out Torque measurements for opening and closing. The detailed video for this knife includes a section explaining this in more detail.

And the torque measurements for the Jaques (for further reference values check the Technical Testing link):


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?

The MKM Jaques immediately strikes you as both traditional and cutting edge design (pun intended), with a fusion of classic lines and styles with the very latest materials in a really easy to carry tool. Remember that ease of carry is what makes a tool the best one you have, as the fact you have it on you means it is the best tool for the job.
However, it is not only easy of carry, but that you choose to carry it, that is the final determining factor for being the best tool. For me, a Wharncliffe blade has always been one of the most practical choices, with the blade tip presented for immediate use, and the straight cutting edge easy to control, plus it is also easy to maintain the straight edge.
I take an XL size glove, and some pocket knives can feel too small in the hand; the Jaques does not. Compact, yes, but a very useful size. With the first and third finger grip grooves, it is very stable in your hand. Bearing in mind this is a slip-joint, so you are not going to be working it very hard, there is plenty of grip and plenty of blade.


I would prefer a slightly deeper carry clip so that only the clip is visible in your pocket and none of the handle, but the clip, as it is, is very neat. That would just be a slight change I would make if I could.

The action is nicely crisp, with a good resistance to closing (as proven by the torque measurements). In a slip-joint, I remain unconvinced about the benefits of using ball bearings; this is a personal view relating to the fact there is significant slip-joint back-spring pressure, and considering that over the full lifetime of the knife solid washers would removing the possibility of dirt/grit affecting ball bearings. However, it is very smooth in action, even with the spring resistance making that action very firm, so whatever my personal preferences may be, the blade action is very slick and pleasing.

Looking back at this gallery, I realise that all the jobs I have been using the Jaques for have been those smaller, make a cut – fold and stow, type of jobs and I wasn’t getting a camera out to capture it. Round the garden, at the post office, DIY, at work, all those jobs you use the knife you have on you to do. All done with ease and comfort, while appreciating the fit, finish, action and really effective blade. I’ve only once substituted the Jaques for one job where I preferred to use a disposable utility knife for – no point in knowingly damaging a quality knife for the sake of it.

As I write I also realise the edge has not needed any touch up, even considering this was the original edge that has been to big exhibitions and been used, dropped, handled so many times, yet it is still going strong.

Sadly these days, a knife’s looks are also important for the wrong reasons. What I mean by this is that some knives look ‘dangerous’ (in the words of others), but the Jaques has a gentle, traditional, look and feel which has been well received universally. In fact, it has been often complimented by people that might otherwise be critical of a knife. This allows you to feel more relaxed using the knife when others might see. A rare thing to really be able to enjoy using a knife wherever you are (at least in the UK).


MKM Jaques Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Pocket clip could be ‘deeper carry’.
Are ball bearings necessary for the pivot?

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Magnacut, Titanium and Carbon Fibre construction.
Traditional design styling.
Wide full-flat Wharncliffe blade.
Firm slip-joint action.
Integral bolster and liner.
Polished back spring detail.
Compact and easy to carry.
Excellent grip with first and third finger grooves.
Easy pinch-grip opening.

MKM Jaques Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the MKM Jaques Review:
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Knife Review: Benchmade Adira 18060

In this detailed review of the Benchmade Adira 18060, a substantial EDC knife, and part of the Benchmade Water Collection, find out if it could be the ideal companion for your outdoor lifestyle on and off the water – read the Benchmade Adira 18060 Review to see for yourself. The Benchmade Adira 18060 is designed to be especially suited for demanding cutting tasks in and around wet environments. Featuring a CPM-MagnaCut drop-point blade, an AXIS Lock mechanism with stainless springs and it comes with a hi-vis orange lanyard for easy access and visibility. The Benchmade Adira 18060 knife blade runs on phosphor-bronze washers making opening and closing smooth, easy, strong and super reliable. Once opened, the axis lock holds the blade securely, and is ambidextrous, so can easily be used by left-handed and right-handed users. Join me in this Benchmade Adira 18060 Review for all the details.
(Thanks to Heinnie Haynes for helping make this review possible.)

What’s in the box?:
Benchmade have gone all-out on the premium experience with the Adira’s packaging, so there are a few more things to look at in this section. I put my hand into view to give a sense of scale for the box.
Slipping off the outer sleeve reveals the orangey glory of the main box. Flipping up the box lid shows even more layers to the packaging. The knife is presented to you with the blade open, in a felt-topped custom cut out layered box liner. Neatly stored to the back of the box is a Benchmade microfibre cloth rolled up and stored in its own section. With the knife lifted out you can see the layers of the liner, with the ‘LifeSharp’ information where the blade was sitting. All of this attention to detail certainly elevates the experience of receiving this knife.


A good look round the folded Adira 18060 – Things to look out for here are:
A packed gallery here, starting off with every-which-way views of the folded knife. One of the Adira’s main orange highlights is the lanyard (which can easily be removed if you don’t like them) which definitely aids grip, handling, stability and visibility. The pocket clip arrives set up for right-handed (tip-up) carry and has a mounting point on the other side for a left-handed setup. The lanyard hole is generous, taking the doubled-up paracord of the supplied lanyard easily. The anodised aluminium backspacer is a subtle, complimentary, colour to the blue handles. The stainless steel liners have thumb jimping for grip, and support the axis lock and pivot. The pivot bolt is one-sided for easy adjustment if required, but it arrives perfectly set up. There is jimping on the blade’s thumb ramp extension and at the butt of the handle. Another Orange highlight on the Adira is the double-sided thumb stud.


A good look round the opened Adira 18060 – Things to look out for here are:
As we swing that large blade out more details are revealed.

Starting with the action of the Axis lock, and once the blade is deployed, the Grivory handle’s shaping and ergonomics can really be seen. A generous integral finger guard sits to the front, ensuring your hand will not slide forward onto the blade. Grip features are incorporated all over the handle including grooves on the palm swell, and jimping near the butt.
Now, with the blade open, we can get the clearest view of the phosphor-bronze washers sitting between the liners and blade tang. Renowned for its performance and corrosion resistance, CPM Magnacut is proudly emblazoned on the blade next to the Orange thumb stud. The equivalent position on the other side of the blade has the Benchmade logo and model number engraved. Taking in the whole blade, plus its spine and swedge design, and then right in to the very tip.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from CPM-Magnacut steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?
Benchmade’s design approach for the Water collection knives; using robust, reliable, simple design, with strong, corrosion resistant materials, is actually in line with all of my own valued preferences for knife design principles – from the outset this firmly aligns the Adira to my personal tastes.
When it comes to locking knives, in relation to being a UK resident, if I have ‘good reason’ to carry a knife, then I also prefer a substantial folding knife that is capable of hard work. So in this sense the Adira is hitting the spot nicely as well.
Here is the Adira 18060, very comfortably in my XL glove-size hands.


As intended, the Adira is a real Water baby, very much at home in and on the water. If getting into deeper water I would prefer to add a float to the lanyard in case I did drop it. Lily pads might keep it afloat for a short time, but ultimately it will sink into the depths.

The action, out of the box, is silky smooth, with the blade tang running on phosphor-bronze washers; always my preference for stability, maximum strength, reliability and ease of maintenance. All through the testing there was not a hint of any change in the action, nor would I expect it.

With the extended thumb ramp naturally bringing your grip up onto the blade, and making it easy to apply pressure behind the cutting edge exactly where it give maximum power to the cut. This also lifts the thumb studs slightly, making them both more accessible when the knife is folded, and further away from the cutting edge and any interference when sharpening.

Of course we are very familiar with the axis lock, and how the grip you take to release the lock automatically puts your hand out of the way of the blade path, making for safe and easy one-handed closing (perhaps with the blade spine pressing against something to help swing it closed as you hold open the lock).

Despite not being a full flat grind, and having a good sized blade, the blade stock used means the Adira’s blade is nicely slicey, and it’s an eager enough cutter.

Sitting writing this review, I have the Adira to hand, and having been given a wash with soap and water and good rinse, it is looking as if it hasn’t been used at all. The stonewashed blade finish always being a good choice in this regard, and all the other parts cleaned up to look like new (as so far I’ve not dropped or dinged anything).

As well as being an excellent user, a knife like the Adira, would also be an ideal ‘standby’ or ’emergency’ knife as you know that while in storage it won’t develop any issues, and will be in perfect condition when called into service however long that might be from now. You might even feel the need to get one to use and one to have as an emergency backup.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

The front part of the handle is a little slim and digs in to your fingers.
Packaging could be considered excessive.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

The whole design ethos of the Water Collection.
Magnacut blade with stonewashed finish.
Highly corrosion resistant throughout.
Phosphor-bronze pivot washers.
Ambidextrous Axis lock.
Orange colour highlights.
Lanyard included to aid grip.
Two-position pocket clip.
Substantial sized knife.
Thumb ramp extension.
Jimping where you need it.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
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TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: ANV A100 Ultem

In this detailed review of the ANV – ACTA NON VERBA Knives A100 Folding Knife, find out if this could be the perfect size for everyday tasks? Read on in this ANV A100 Ultem Review to see. The version of the A100 featured in this detailed review has Natural Ultem for the handles and a DLC coated Sleipner blade.

The ANV A100 has a sleek modern design and is made from the latest materials. The single sided (you choose the side to suit your handedness) thumb stud features a glowing Superluminova dot, as used in luxury watch faces.

The handle used for this A100 is made from Natural Ultem (polyetherimide) which is a semi-transparent high strength plastic material that can operate in high service temperature environments with excellent chemical resistance. It also has outstanding electrical properties, with one of the highest dielectric strengths of any thermoplastic material. Best known for its use in the aircraft industry, it has also been a popular material choice in the knife world.

ANV specify the A100 as using A-lock, more commonly known as an Axis Lock, and the A100 has an ambidextrous deep-carry wire pocket clip.

What’s in the box?:
The typical ANV presentation for a folder is a black cardboard box with precision cut foam liner perfectly securing the knife in place. Also included is an information card.


A good look round the folded A100 – Things to look out for here are:
And now onto a large gallery looking round the knife in the folded state. At first glance the apparent colour choice may seem unusual with its yellowy-orange colour, but remember this is a feature of Ultem in its Natural, or uncoloured, state. The A100 has other handle choices including dyed Ultem and a range of colours in GRN (depending on availability). The fact it is Ultem is to be celebrated.
The transparent natural Ultem also makes it easy to see what is going on inside. A deep carry wire pocket clip can be fitted to either side of the handle. As strong as Ultem is, the A100 uses small steel inserts for the a-lock and bearings, and the exposed edge of the liner has thumb-grip jimping. The pivot bolt is one sided, and is in fact secured with blue loctite. The handles are attached to a GRN back spacer with small screws.
For the A100, a single-sided thumb stud is used. This is an interesting design where the stud and treaded post are one piece, and it is not a screw going through the blade and into the stud. When removing it to swap sides, remember you actually screw it in with a T6 bit to remove it and then tighten it by unscrewing what appears to be the ‘screw head’.

Back to the gallery after the little thumb-stud aside…the floating GRN back spacer covers the entire length of the handle where the cutting edge might be seen.
Looking between the jimped steel liners the lock bar and stop pin can also be seen.


A good look round the open A100 – Things to look out for here are:
Swinging out the distinctive ANV blade allows us to further appreciate the clear natural Ultem handles by watching the lock mechanism’s function, and with the dark blade out of the handle the Ultem really lights up.
There is no mistaking the ANV blade shape, and the Sleipner steel used in this version has a DLC coating to protect the steel.
Going in close to show the plunge line and sharpening choil details, and with the blade open the size of the steel liners is easier to see.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from Sleipner steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?

Immediately the A100 feels slim, light and easy to carry, but not insubstantial. In fact its weight belies that the A100 is a good sized knife. The gallery below shows the A100 in my XL-glove sized hand.


Yes, it is slim in the hand, but this slim profile makes it so easy to carry. Combined with the deep carry pocket clip it virtually disappears and you are not aware it is there (which can give you the occasional ‘oh, no, have I lost my knife?!’ stress). Tip-up is my preferred clip position, and although this is considered more hazardous, remember the A100 uses an A-Lock (which I would identify as an Axis-Lock) so the lock spring also positively keeps the blade closed. With this positive spring pressure it massively reduces the likelihood of an unwanted pocket-open. It isn’t something I would be concerned about with this knife, so the layout works perfectly for me.

Putting it to use, and with the toughness of the Ultem to play with, I decided to give it a literal beating. A bit of batoning, but without the lock engaged. The smaller steel liners might not have been able to spread the shock I normally generate while striking, so I used the unlocked blade method. You will see the blade locked to then work the blade out of the cut, which you can’t do if it isn’t locked. That was enough of that, as I really don’t like unlocked-folder batoning.
Moving onto carving and shaving cuts, the A100’s blade really bites in and cuts aggressively but smoothly. The slim handle does feel harder work in heavy cuts; of course it would. The A100 doesn’t shy away from the hard work though, and has done its stint as my beater knife with whatever thrown at it. The DLC has taken everything in its stride and knowing Sleipner is only a semi-stainless, it has surprised me that the edge bevel is not showing any corrosion despite being left well covered in ‘garden goop’, various plant/tree sap, and whatever else was on what I was cutting.
I am always a bit surprised at the popularity of ball bearings in knife pivots, as exactly as I would expect on a user exposed to dust, the A100 has become gritty. The blade no longer moves under its own weight with the lock held open. It is not stiff in action, but is not smooth as it was out of the box.
ANV effectively sell the A100 as a sealed unit, and do not advise disassembling the pivot as the bearings can be very difficult to get right again (and it has blue loctite on the pivot bolt). This then leaves non-disassembly methods of cleaning. Air blasting, WD-40, and maybe even ultrasonic cleaning.


ANV aimed the A100 at EDC (when your local laws allow carrying a locker) which prioritises factors like size and weight, to make you want to EDC it. Not only have they hit the target on weight, slimness, and ease of carry, but at the same time included a good sized blade with an eager cutting blade profile, AND their signature ANV svedge grind (a faux harpoon, to my eye), making it a very efficient and useful tool to carry.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Bearings becoming gritty in dusty environments.
Slim handle can dig in for heavy cutting (as you would expect).

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Light and easy to EDC.
Deep carry clip makes the A100 almost disappear in/on your pocket.
A good size, despite being lightweight, so large enough for most tasks.
Smooth bearings (when kept clean).
Ambidextrous with movable thumb stud and clip.
Choice of blade steels.
ANV Svedge blade shape.
Resilient DLC blade coating.
Super tough Ultem handle.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


Thanks for joining me in this ANV A100 Ultem Review.

 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: MICROTECH SOCOM Elite

A time-tested classic, the Microtech SOCOM Elite Manual has set a standard for tactical and utility knives. In this detailed review of the Microtech SOCOM Elite Manual folding knife we look at the current 2025 incarnation of this classic.
The original SOCOM has remained a highly popular folding knife since its inception in 1996. Over the years improvements have been made, making the SOCOM more adaptable to different environments. The SOCOM Elite has a unique handle shape that molds to your hand and is offered with different blade shapes and finishes. This review model is the ‘Socom Elite T/E Blue Standard 161-1 BL’ – featuring the Tanto black cerakote blade.

What’s in the box?:

A very smart appearance in a black box with red metallic logo; inside the box is an information pack with sticker, and the knife in a plastic bag with warning label.


A good look round the (folded) SOCOM Elite – Things to look out for here are:
With many details to focus on, this gallery shows the features that can be seen with the knife folded. The SOCOM Elite’s handles are intricately machined to incorporate a multitude of features, recessed grip panels, back spacers, thumb stud easing, thumb ramp and reverse grip jimping, lanyard hole amongst many others. The single position pocket clip dog-legs around the pivot bolt. At the front of the handle are the recesses which the thumb studs rest against as the blade stop. This current version of the SOCOM Elite also has a glass breaker in the butt of the handle.


A good look round the open SOCOM Elite – Things to look out for here are:
As that wonderful two-tone blade swings out, we can start to pick out some other details like the internally recessed liner lock bar emerging into its engaged position. Lighting up the inside of the handle shows the lock bar with its two spring cuts, and how this fits into the internal recess fixed in place by two screws from the outside of the handle.
With the blade fully deployed, the shape and excellent ergonomics of the handle are clear. For the SOCOM model, the dual thumb studs are the blade stop. A relatively large stud diameter has been used, and this fits into matching grooves in the front of the handle to provide a very secure blade stop. This design also keeps the thumb studs more out of the way than designs that don’t use this blade stop method.
Current models use Cerakote for the blade coating, which gives a very matt finish and deep colour on the black/two-tone blade. With a gently curved plunge line, and choil shape ensuring the cutting edge is fully sharpened all the way to the heel, there is no compromise in strength or performance. The SOCOM even includes a section of jimping on the blade above the thumb studs for maximum grip security when moving your grip forwards. Marked on the blade as M390, the blade steel is actually the Microtech M390MK which is a subset of the M390 specification using tighter compositional tolerances – officially it is still M390 and is marked as such.


Explained by the Maker:
In this section I’m including words directly from the maker themselves.

The SOCOM Elite Manual sets the standard for tactical and utility cutlery. The original SOCOM has remained a highly popular folding knife since its inception in 1996. Over the years improvements have been made, making the SOCOM more adaptable to different environments. The manual SOCOM has a unique handle shape that molds to your hand.

Microtech Socom line takes its name from the United States Special Operations Command, SOCOM for short. SOCOM is the operational command of the United States Department of Defense responsible for special operations. Under its supervision are units such as the Navy SEALs, Air Force PJs, Army Rangers and others.

This knife was designed to meet the expectations of US Army special forces operators. Its design is the result of long-term research and testing aimed at creating a tool that is optimal in terms of functionality and durability. The blade is made of Microtech’s own version of Böhler M390 steel, designated M390MK, which has tighter specifications within the M390 standards, so ensures a greater consistency for the production processes and ultimately consistency of performance for Microtech knives. The knife’s handle is made of aluminium, which makes it lightweight and durable. Special 3M inlays ensure a secure grip even under the toughest conditions.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from M390MK steel – this is a subset of the M390 specification using tighter compositional tolerances – officially it is still M390.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges. Also included is an image at the same magnification of the laser engraving.


What is it like to use?

When you pick up a SOCOM Elite, you can immediately understand why it is still made nearly 30 years after being launched. Yes, it has a few tweaks to further refine it, but fundamentally it’s the original classic. As you can see in this gallery, in XL-glove sized hands, the SOCOM Elite is a large folder that allows multiple stable forward and reverse grip positions (with or without gloves). That handle length ensures the glass breaker isn’t an afterthought, but really effective striking point. Personally I have never had to use a glass breaker for breaking glass, but this could also be used defensively as a crushing point, or to more safely split open a hard container/shell.
Handling is excellent, ramps, jimping, curves, grip panels and contouring all combining to a knife that feels right in your hand, and ready to be put to use, so let’s do that now…


As a hard-use design, being intended to withstand military deployment, it’s first test was one I’d usually only put fixed blades through. Especially as I’ve just made a new, heavier, baton for the pallet cutting test, meaning it was going to be taking even more of a beating.

With a thick blade (for a folder) it needed quite the firm batoning to get this first cut. The top view of the cut show just how much the wood is being pushed apart for a full blade depth cut. Batoning a folder is not for the faint of heart, nor is it much good for even the toughest of folders, but if it can take some of this abuse it shows how strong the knife is. I’m not one for the ‘unlocked blade’ type of batoning, as you lose so much control, even if protecting the lock and pivot, so this was done with the blade locked. The pallet cut was completed in stages, taking out sections by cutting each end and popping out a chunk. The last strikes of the baton snapped the final part of the board instead of making a clean cut.

Immediately after this pallet cut test, the blade and lock were showing a bit of play, and the front of the handle where the blade stops contact it showed a slight indentation of the thumb studs/blade stops. Oddly while working the blade and lock to check what I might have damaged and if I could adjust it back, the lockup self-healed and without anything other than about 20-30 open and close cycles, it was back to a rock solid lockup. I suspect (but cannot prove) that this was the ball bearing pivot having been knocked out of position slightly, settling back after several opening/closing cycles, and might never have happened if solid washers had been used. Lesson 1, we already know, batoning with a folder is not good for it, but the other lesson is how much abuse the SOCOM Elite took in its stride and then sorted itself out.

Not the finest of ‘feather’ cutting, but with more practice and a re-profiled and re-sharpened edge I’m sure this will improve. The factory edge cuts well, especially considering it is a 58 degrees inclusive edge.

From heavy cutting to much lighter tasks (opening the next review knife package) the SOCOM Elite is a pleasure to use and efficient cutter. Of the available blade types, the Tanto blade does have a thicker wedge profile, so is one of the stronger blades for super heavy use, but you may want one of the other higher grind blade shapes for a more slicey action.


The final images in the gallery above show the Cerakote wear, almost all of which was from the pallet cut test. Typically a DLC coating will clean up without marks after this test, so the Cerakote is much less robust. Cerakote generally does have a more matt finish than DLC and this is a good fit for the two-tone blade finish, but will show wear.

Microtech’s SOCOM Elite definitely does deliver what it promises, an ergonomic and powerful folder, and you will want to use it.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Cerakote already showing wear.
Ball bearings instead of washers.
Single position pocket clip.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Fantastic ergonomics.
M390MK Steel.
Super strong lockup.
Large comfortable thumb studs.
Excellent grip panel texture without being abrasive.
Plenty of Jimping and grip ramps.
Distinctive styling.
Glass breaker/striker pommel.
Built to take heavy use.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
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Knife Review: UG Tools TiNy SecuriTi

TiNy by name, but definitely not in strength and performance; this is a detailed review of the UG Tools TiNy superlight knife. Not just the TiNy, but the special ‘SecuriTi’ edition, specifically designed to prevent unauthorised snatching of the knife from the owner by means of an added security lock. More on that later in this UG Tools TiNy SecuriTi review.

Before saying more about the knife, just a quick explanation of the maker’s name. UG Tools in full is Utsch & Gierse Tools, and for the review video titles I’ve written this as U.G. Tools with full stops to separate the U & G. I did this to specifically demonstrate how their name should be said. They are not pronounced like a well know brand of footwear, nooooooo, Utsch & Gierse are U.G. Tools, but write this simply as UG tools. Don’t sound like a caveman, say the name as it should be 🙂

UG Tools TiNy has already made its mark, giving you a superlight fixed blade without sacrificing strength through ingenuous use of 3D printed Titanium handles (referred to as 3DTi) that allow a short tang blade to have the stability and strength of a full tang knife at a much lower weight.

What’s in the box?:
In fact there is no box as this was an exhibition knife from EnforceTac 2025 (held immediately prior to IWA 2025), and shows a little wear on the Ulti-clip mount and this edition’s special security latch.

This review knife has the Floe pattern handle texturing, 3D printed sheath made of PA11 (polyamide) which incorporates the SecuriTi’s added security lock, and has been designed to perfectly integrate with Ulti-Clip UltiLink mounting system.


A good look round the SecuriTi’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
First in the gallery are photos showing the integration of the Ulti-Clip UltiLink mounting system into the TiNy’s sheath. UG Tools have made the sheath to use this mounting system so the integration could not be better.
The titanium lever that sits above the UltiLink is the SecuriTi’s security latch. Other sheath details are a retention tension adjusting screw, drainage hole and integrated thumb ramp for removing the knife from the sheath.


A good look round the TiNy’s handle and blade – Things to look out for here are:
After an overall look at the proportions, it’s time for a closer look at the 3DTi printed handle with Type II anodised finish. All TiNy models have the integral guard, and the SecuriTi has the additional security latch integral keeper hole for the latch hook to grip.
This review knife features the Floe pattern handle texturing (or giraffe pattern as renamed by a friend).
Another SecuriTi specific feature is the Ceramic ball glass breaker in the butt of the handle. Next to this is a blind loop lanyard hole.
And now onto the blade, the only conventionally manufactured part (not 3D printed), a 100 mm drop point blade made of 2.8 mm thick MagnaCut with stonewashed and DLC coated finish. A sharpening choil ensures you can re-sharpen the entire cutting edge.


Explained by the Maker:
In this section I’m including words directly from the maker themselves.

“Our 3DTi-knives combine extremely low weight with the stability of a full-tang.

Our 3DTi Handles

Our 3D-printed titanium handles were developed by us with clear goals: To achieve the best balance of weight and stability with the highest functionality and perfect ergonomics. In many iterations, the moulds were repeatedly adjusted over a year and subjected to strict stress tests of the knives (and our nerves) until we were satisfied with the result. With a average wall thickness of 1 mm, the high-strength titanium of the handle is still incredibly stable and allows for a blade with an unusually short tang that has no disadvantages: the titanium supports the tang and force is dissipated into the handle evenly. In addition to the extreme weight saving, another advantage is a large hollow space inside (expect with TiNy-models) which, in combination with our titanium screw cap, provides a storage space for various applications. In addition to our ruby sharpening rod, each individually important item can be stored absolutely dry in the handle.

Our Blades

We source our blades from a renowned Solingen contract grinder, with whom we also work together on the optimal ergonomics of our blades and select suitable steels. We have our blades hardened at the special German hardening shop Werz. Here we have full control over the final result. We fit the blades into the handle without play and glue them into the titanium handle over the entire surface with high-strength adhesive. For even more safety, with most models the blade is additionally screwed from the inside. So it remains fully functional in the unlikely event of the adhesive coming off. The adhesive reliably seals the gap to the handle and prevents dirt and moisture from penetrating. It is possible to have worn or damaged blades replaced by us at a reasonable price.

Our Sheaths

Knife sheaths have always been one of our biggest bottlenecks. Knife sheaths typically are made of leather or Kydex and are produced by hand. Due to our large number of blade-handle combinations, we were unable to have sufficient quantities produced economically. The problem: injection moulded sheaths were far from meeting our requirements. That’s why we developed 3D printable sheaths especially for our knives. They are made of PA11 (polyamide) and have, varying by model, for example a removable belt loop, drain holes, an adjusting screw for the perfect fit of the knife and other features. They are available for right- & left-handers. In the future we will offer 3D-printed sheaths and leather sheaths.

Our TiNy series in Floe design was developed with the goal of offering our no-compromise 3DTi design in even more compact and lightweight form. The TiNy with droppoint blade in MagnaCut is, despite the extremely low weight of only 80 grams, as stable as a full-tang of the same length. This makes the TiNy the perfect unobtrusive companion for everyday use(EDC) or a no-compromise backup knife with impressive stability.”


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from Magnacut steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?

For this special edition TiNy, as the SecuriTi, I envision it typically being on a load carrier platform or pack shoulder strap to provide maximum accessibility.

Exactly the reason the security latch was added, as being so accessible, there is a chance of unauthorised snatching, which the latch counters brilliantly. For the owner of the knife, releasing the security latch is completely natural, you need only place your thumb, as you would normally, to pop the knife from the sheath, but then apply a little sideways force to the latch lever to release the security latch.
Any attempt to just grab the knife handle will not gain access to the knife as it just won’t come free from the sheath.


Once in your hand this is now no longer about the SecuriTi edition, but instead the UG Tools model, the TiNy. Shown here in my XL-glove size hands, it is a compact knife, not a tiny one. Tiny in terms of weight, yes, 85 grams for an all metal construction fixed blade without compromise on comfort or strength. You can see that the ergonomics of the handle and blade make this excellent as a general purpose utility knife.
Considering the ergonomics of the sheath as well, the integral jimped thumb ramp for releasing the knife (which has the security latch lever next to it) makes one handed opening a breeze when the sheath is not mounted to a belt or load carrier; you just pop and flick the sheath off.


Before getting on to some cutting tests, the TiNy has a full metal handle, which meant I needed to test UG Tools’ claim about cold weather use:
“In winter, the low mass with the poor thermal conductivity of titanium ensures that the handle is at body temperature in just a few seconds, even in wet and cold conditions, making it suitable for use in all climates.”

While it is true that Titanium has a conductivity around 22 W/m·K, compared to steel at around 45 W/m·K, another factor is also the low mass of the UG Tools handle construction with a wall thickness of around 1mm, meaning there is also less metal to need to warm up than other metal handle knives.

So for this test I left the TiNy in the freezer overnight to soak it down to a crispy -20°C then, thermal camera ready, straight out of the freezer and in my hand.

The gallery shows how the purely Titanium part of the handle is warming rapidly. Where the steel knife tang is inserted into the handle it stays cold longer. Considering the knife was at -20°C, it wasn’t ‘warm’ but it also didn’t freeze to my skin or otherwise feel particularly uncomfortable.


One other factor in this cold weather test that does make a difference is the surface finish. UG Tools use a Type II anodising carried out after an initial coarse sand blasting. The Type II anodising used creates plasma sparks that “melt” the surface on a microscopic level which leads to a smooth almost organic feeling. This surface finish further insulates your skin from hot/cold when holding the knife.

This is what the surface looks like under the same magnification as the factory edge images.

First I made the TiNy prepare its own baton, ready for a good pounding through pallet wood. Being so lightweight you can’t chop with the TiNy, so it needs a baton to strike it and drive it through what you are cutting. The compact size also means it is more of a nibbling away, having to reposition and widen the cut so the baton can still hit the blade. In this specific cutting test, the knife tip is not available to strike, instead it is either the spine or very close to (or on occasion on) the handle. In the end, the last part of this cut split under the batoning force with only a few millimetres left to cut.
Combining the slim blade stock with a flat grind, makes the TiNy an eager cutter, and easy to control. Slicing the wood like a woodworker’s plane, feather stick work turning into something like a wafer stick.


IT is actually amazingly tactile, and another observation when handling the TiNy is that its unique construction, with the thin walled printed Titanium handle, is that is almost ‘rings’ as you hold it, reminiscent of handling fine ceramics. Different to any other knife I have used, and I like it. Comfortable to use, lightweight, super strong and easy to carry.

As we have seen, UG Tool’s TiNy is the exception to at least two of rules of knife design; that anything other than a full tang compromises overall strength, and an all metal handle is heavy and cold. They say ‘it is the exception that proves the rule’, but is the UG Tools TiNy the exception, or simply the rule breaker?

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

The UltiLink Mount seems a bit out of proportion on the TiNy.
It makes me want more UG Tools knives!!!

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Fantastic ergonomics and comfort.
Magnacut blade.
Low temperature DLC coating.
Security latch system on the SecuriTi edition.
Organic feeling handle texture/Type II anodising.
Uniquely tactile 3D printed Titanium handle.
Uncompromised fixed blade strength weighing only 85g.
Slim 2.8mm blade stock.
Flat grind slicing ability.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Hoo Knives V4

In this detailed review of the HOO KNIVES V4 Tanto, a UK EDC-Legal slip-joint, double-detent flipper folder; join me as we look at every aspect of this lovely EDC knife.

Hoo Knives are born from the founder’s true passion for quality knives, and Hoo Knives focus on non-locking, sub 3 inch, practical and safe use folding knives (UK EDC Legal requirements). A very approachable brand who are completely engaged in supporting and listening to their customers, along with the wider EDC community, and, case-in-point, they created the V4 Tanto due to high demand for a Tanto Style Blade in their line up.

What’s in the box?:
The V4 arrives in a proper, hinged, re-usable, plastic box, that you can either keep for storing the knife as part of a collection, or make use of it for other purposes. Contained in this box are the knife, a draw-string cloth case for the knife, a cleaning cloth, specification card, stickers, and warranty information.


A good look round the (folded) Hoo Knives V4 – Things to look out for here are:

This gallery shows the features you can see with the knife folded. Straight out of the box, the deep carry pocket clip has a protective wrap to prevent marks on the handle scale (both so it reaches you in perfect condition, and in case you decide to re-fit it to the other handle). The blade is almost fully contained within the handle, with only a thin part of the spine visible. Ambidextrous thumb studs and a flipper tab can be used to open the blade.
The titanium handles have a stonewashed finish, and while very flat, the edges are well eased for comfort.


A good look round the (opened) Hoo Knives V4’s blade – Things to look out for here are:

Once deployed, we can see details of the blade and the function of the knife’s mechanism. In the open position, the thumb studs come close to the front of the handle but do not touch the handle as they are not used as stop pins, instead this is done with an internal stop pin. A curved plunge line makes the transition from the hollow primary grind to the blade tang. The individual serial number is neatly engraved just in front of the handle. The blade swedge extends for the entire length of the spine, and combines with the outlines of the flat-ground tanto tip, and the blade’s main hollow grind, to give a pleasing mix of flowing curves and straight lines.
Finally looking within the handles you can see the double detent mechanism gripping the blade along with the internal stop pin.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from M390 steel.

Being a slipjoint design the Tactical Reviews technical parameters also include peak torque measurements for opening and closing torque. This gives you an indication of the slipjoint mechanism’s blade stability. Comparative torques can be see on the Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done page.

Explained by the Maker:
In this section I’m including words directly from the maker themselves.

HOO DESIGNS LIMITED trading as HOO KNIVES was founded in the United Kingdom on 30 March 2021 with the goal of offering premium, British-designed folding knives at fair and competitive prices.

Since then, we’ve expanded our range to include a variety of unique models, each utilising high-quality materials, ensuring durability and top-notch performance.

With a focus on non-locking sub 3 inch practical and safe use folding knives, we’re proud our products are used by professionals and enthusiasts worldwide. We continue to engage with our customers through social media and strive to deliver exceptional performance in every product, alongside a high degree of customer service.

In relation to our name, HOO KNIVES, many may be curious about the connection to the Sutton Hoo site. Sutton Hoo is a significant archaeological site located near Woodbridge, Suffolk, England, known for its medieval cemeteries dating back to the 6th and 7th centuries. The site is famous for the discovery of an Anglo-Saxon royal burial ship, and it has played an important role in British history and heritage. Our name pays homage to this rich historical connection, reflecting the craftsmanship, heritage, and timeless quality that we strive to embody in every knife we create.

Our logo was inspired by the Sutton Hoo helmet, one of the most iconic artefacts from the site. The helmet is part of what is widely regarded as the greatest treasure ever discovered on British soil. We chose to incorporate elements of this historic symbol into our branding to reflect the heritage, strength, and craftsmanship that define HOO KNIVES.

As we build on four years of history, HOO KNIVES continues to evolve and refine our designs. What started in 2021 with a vision to offer premium, British-designed knives at accessible prices has grown into a trusted brand among knife enthusiasts. With each model we release, we aim to offer a product that blends quality, functionality, and class while maintaining a focus on the needs of EDC users in the UK and around the world.

We’ve built a reputation for our commitment to design, performance, and customer service, and as we move forward, we’re excited to continue expanding our range and sharing our passion for knives with an ever-growing community. Every year, we learn, adapt, and strive to improve.

For the longest time members of the EDC community have asked if Hoo would ever make a Tanto Style Blade, we are very proud to reveal our intention to do just that! Introducing the Hoo Knives V4 Tanto.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?

Flat, stone-washed handles that look great in their natural Titanium grey, and the sleekness of an all metal knife, which is somehow softened slightly but the surface finish and easing of the handle edges. It wants to be held and turned over in your hand a bit like a worry stone.

Hoo Knives V4’s design, considering it is based around the sub 3″ UK EDC Legal requirement, is still a comfortable size knife to hold and has a useful amount of cutting edge. Shown in this gallery, with your first finger firmly placed in the handle finger groove, the flipper tab will prevent the blade closing accidentally. Keeping a tight grip ensures the blade can’t close on you. (Of course you would use correct cutting technique to prevent this as well, wouldn’t you?)

One minor detail that I appreciate, is that with the subtle shaping of the handle at the butt to create a low profile grip hook, this raised section helps to better enclose the tip of the folded blade. All too often the very tip of a folding knife blade is a bit too accessible and can actually catch on your finger. In the case of the V4, that handle shaping at the butt keeps the blade tip well covered.

Combining a flipper tab and thumb stud to open the V4 gives you good flexibility. My personal preference is always to open a blade under full control, so I lean towards using thumb studs. With the thumb studs being tight into the handle on the V4, for an easier start you can use the flipper tab to partially pop the blade open, and then take over with the thumb studs to fully open the blade under manual control. While you certainly can flip the V4’s blade fully open, and also fully thumb it open, I really like this combined method with the tab popping the blade out and finishing with the thumb stud.

The slipjoint action is crisp out of the box and so far the double detent remains nicely crispy. The slip-joint torque figures presented earlier in the review bear this out well, and the blade is held perfectly firmly enough for a slip joint.

With the spring pressure acting on the blade, a slipjoint mechanism tends to mask the true feeling of its pivot bearings. The V4 is fitted with the Hoo Knives’ standard ceramic ball bearings, as used across all models (except the original production run of the V1). Blade rotation on these ceramic ball bearings is slick and precise.

Thanks in part to those ceramic bearings, but also the double-detent blade retention, Hoo Knives have also achieved a truly flippable slipjoint. This is a rare feat in the slipjoint world, as in most cases the blade spring in a slipjoint completely prevents the ability to flip open the blade, instead you do need a detent type of blade retention.


Pocket carry is very unobtrusive, with the slim deep-carry clip being very subtle. All the more sleek in appearance due to the clip’s fixing screws being inside the handle. The only downside to this is if you do want to move the side the clip is fitted to, you do need to take the knife apart.

Tantos have that very useful secondary point and angled chisel-like tip, and initially I was less impressed with cutting performance than I expected. The factory edge average BESS of 272 is OK, if not great, though the 50 degree inclusive edge angle made this factory edge a disappointing under performer. Putting a new 17DPS edge (around 200 BESS) totally transformed the V4 – now that is more like it.

If a tanto is not you favourite blade shape, check out the other Hoo Knives models, all of which are created with the same care as the V4, and as I am writing this, the latest Phoenix and Dragon models have joined the line up.

Just today, I was actually chiseling (push cutting) with the V4’s tanto tip to free up the action of a folding wooden table. Now the V4 is positively asking to be EDCed, and is being put to work on all the every day jobs that present themselves. The V4 is firmly earning its essential EDC status along with those other EDC items I won’t be without.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Factory edge underwhelming (put your own on it).
Swapping the pocket clip side requires a full strip down.
Thumbs studs a bit scratchy/sharp.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Super sleek deep-carry pocket clip.
A true flipper slipjoint.
M390 steel.
Full metal construction.
Natural stonewashed titanium handles.
Double-detent slip-joint.
Crisp action with good retention.
Ceramic ball bearings.
Flipper tab and Thumb studs.
Both easy to carry and a very useful size.
Great Hoo Knives customer service.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Epic Knife Review: Aitor Jungle King Series 1, 2 and 3 – Part 2

Join me in the continuation of an epic super-detailed two-part review of the AITOR Jungle King knife series. For me, this style of knife focuses on the fun in outdoor knife use that is so often overlooked due to it being fashionable to dismiss any knife if it doesn’t have a full tang and latest super-steel. Let’s allow ourselves the simple enjoyment of using different knives, and with the Jungle King Series, Aitor have packed them with interesting and useful features.

This epic review of the Aitor Jungle King knives has so much detail I’ve had to split it into two parts. In this, the second part, we will explore using the plethora of features Aitor give you, and some valuable insights into these interesting knives.

See Part 1 for the technical details and photo galleries showing all the features. Read on here in Part 2 for practical testing and insights plus a unique insight into the madness of UK knife law.

The madness of UK Knife law (and the global epidemic):

I’ve had to start Part 2 with this section for two main reasons. Firstly, in order not to break a new UK knife law “The Criminal Justice Act 1988 (Offensive Weapons) (Amendment, Surrender and Compensation) Order 2024″ when it came into force, I had to modify the Jungle King 1, as overnight this knife became an illegal offensive weapon in the UK, which was clearly a danger to society and must be destroyed.

Fortunately the relatively minor reshaping of the knife tip brought the Jungle King’s blade under this terrifying 8” threshold and filled it with fwuffy bunny wabbit love meaning the UK was safe again 🙂

In the gallery, the masking tape was used to mock up the required position for this modification and finalise the angle for this small reverse Tanto. Such a pity to have to make this alteration, but the tip strength will be higher with this modification. The material was removed using a belt grinder, and definitely proved the hardness and wear resistance of the Aitor heat treat as it did resist the change and take longer than expected. It was however worth it to feel I had made the country a safer place to live in (this was said with sarcasm).


Comparison of size and handling:

I take an XL size Glove, and this gallery steps through the models from Jungle King 1 to 3 giving a sense of how they handle.


New Edges for All:

I did give myself quite a job with the major reprofiling of all three blades, and although there was a lot of metal needing to be removed, it was worth the effort as this has transformed all the Jungle King models.

All blades were taken to 17.5 DPS.


The Pallet Chop test:

This is a no-holds-barred chopping test. Initially chopping directly with the knife, and then, if required, using a baton to drive the blade into the board.
The Jungle King 1 simply blasts through this test under its own weight, a powerful chopper without any jarring or bounce. The difference in chopping with the Jungle King 2 is huge. Its weight, or lack of, in comparison to the Jungle King 1 makes it much less effective; so step in the baton. The blade profile is also a wider wedge, so takes more effort to drive it in deeply, and the angle of cut is critical. As the Jungle King 2 progresses through this cutting task, it becomes more difficult to do as it needs enough space for the baton to be able to strike the blade.
Last up is the Jungle King 3, lightweight and a plastic handle – so “what are you doing?” you might well ask. The point is to see if it could and what I found was a ‘Yes…but’ answer. Right here in this gallery, the Jungle King 3 was used as it is, with the tailcap and survival kit in place. After three strikes on the blade spine, the brass threaded insert broke free of the handle. The lesson is; don’t baton with the Jungle King 3 straight out of the sheath, however, this story is to be continued…


Aitor Saw-Backs:

With the Jungle King 1 and 2 featuring the Aitor Saw Back, how do these fare? As with almost all saws on the spine of a knife blade, it is best to consider these a notching tool rather than a full cross-cut saw. Depth of cut is limited to more or less the depth of the saw teeth before the saw starts to bind in the cut and progress stops as there is no clearance. The saw-backs do help give a square cut for making pegs, traps, cooking stands, so are useful, but won’t allow you to saw off branches.


Camp Cutting and Fire Lighting:

Straight up I must say that initial out-of-the-box cutting tests were disappointing. I normally would try to use the factory edges as much as possible. However the edge reprofile, and sharpen to shaving sharp (less than 200 BESS shaves), has made the Jungle King knives eager cutters and a pleasure to use. The fineness and delicacy of cut the Jungle King 1 manages surprised me. The large blade and handle allowing for controlled power to be applied to the cuts. Moving to the Jungle King 2 and it feels so light in comparison, despite its all metal construction, and although also cutting very well, with good control, the advantages of the larger Jungle King 1 are apparent.
Lightest of all, the Jungle King 3 with the slimmest blade, has a tendency to bite in more deeply that you want, and its smaller size and weight becomes apparent as you feel it is harder work for the same tasks; but it is significantly lighter and easier to carry.
All the Jungle King knives stood up really well with the new edge geometry, holding their edges and not showing any damage.
The fire-lighting tests were a mix and match, with the magnesium block fire steel from the Jungle King 1, and using the easier to handle Jungle King 3 for striking and shaving the magnesium block. I chose to use the magnesium block mounted firesteel as the small fire steels in the survival kits are uncomfortable to hold during striking, so the magnesium block provides a stable platform for this. Unfortunately, during this test, the fire steel came away from the magnesium block, leaving me having to hold the firesteel on its own anyway.
Though not a requirement, the magnesium shavings do help get a flame going if the tinder is not perfectly dry, so try without first, but then you can always give it a boost if needed.


That Iconic Slingshot:

Such an overused word ‘iconic’ but it is true for Aitor’s Jungle King knives. Again one of those highly copied features, for the reason it is simply great fun. Would I expect to use it to hunt in a survival situation? Honestly, no, I’ve never been that good with a slingshot, and naturally available ammunition is not consistent in size, shape or weight. Like the lottery, if you don’t play you can’t win, so in desperate times an attempted shot is better than no shot. Added to that, for survival, when you finally might need to try, the slingshot bands are latex, and latex bands degrade over time, so unless you make sure to replace them every year or two with fresh bands, you may find they are unusable.
Initial testing here was with the Jungle King 1 and 2. When using the Jungle King 3 I found it significantly less comfortable to hold, with the smaller sheath digging into my hand more.
The slingshot bands appear to be the same specification, even if a slightly different colour. Assembly is very easy just pushing the ends of the bands over the slingshot arms. Drawing the slingshot makes the tubes grip onto the metal arms, so they don’t slide off.
For this plinking test I used ‘mud balls’ (clay slingshot ammo), and two factors presented very quickly. For each and every shot, the slingshot arms are knocked forward (as shown) out of position, so need to be pulled back into place for the next shot. Most seriously, after only five shots, the bands developed holes from the unfinished ends of the slingshot arms. At least one arm for each Jungle King model has a sharp corner which cut through the slingshot band. Testing was cut short as I did not want to continue with the damaged bands.


The Slingshot Fix:

After that initial testing session being cut short, I rounded off the ends of all the slingshot arms with a file, on all the Jungle King models. Not a perfect job by any means, but leaving no sharp corners. Then trimming off those damaged ends from the bands (at least this is an easy fix, by just shortening them a couple of centimetres) and going again.
Now, after I got tired (lost track of how many shots), there was no damage to the bands at all. I did get more accurate, but would not have expected to hit a rabbit, squirrel or bird sized target. Fun, just not if my life depended on it.


General use of the Jungle King knives:

This is a bit of a hotchpotch section to round up a few things in one last gallery. A reminder that you don’t need to be on jungle adventures to use these knives; I needed to cut some foam rubber to size and the large blade of the Jungle King 1 was ideal to give me the a perfectly clean wide flat cut. Slicing easily with the same untouched edge that was previously put to work for the pallet chop and cutting tests.
A note about the Jungle King 1’s sheath, and the slide-out tray plus metal sheath divider, which fell out. I suspect the slingshot practice session caused the metal divider to come loose, and the photos in the gallery show the correct way round for the metal divider to be fitted. The slightly upturned end actually provides some pressure on the blade of the knife to stabilise it in the sheath, so it must be fitted back in this way round.
For the final part of the gallery I am revisiting the Jungle King 3 batoning test where previously the brass threaded insert came loose. I took the brass insert out completely, cleaned it up and epoxied it back in place. I know I used more glue to fix it than there was before.
The main lesson learned was that actually you can baton with the Jungle King 3, but if you do, make sure you remove the tailcap and survival kit first. Without the tailcap in place the shock from the baton strikes won’t hit the threaded insert so hard. In fact what you see here was a full-on batoning session and only the smaller size of blade was slowing progress. No damage was sustained at all using the Jungle King 3 like this, and though I know the threaded insert is more firmly epoxied in place than it was originally, I think this approach would probably have been fine.


What is it like to use?

Are the Jungle King Knives the best survival knives you can buy? Would a modern military special forces team choose these knives for critical missions? I think not – But this is not the point.

The Jungle King knives are capable, if somewhat unwieldy, tools, with plenty of features. They are enjoyable to use and find uses for their features.

Working on the basis the Jungle King 3 is intended for a younger user (who can then progress to the Jungle King 1 or 2 in time), we consider it as a leisure knife to use while camping, and practice both general camp and survival skills.

Though a seriously capable knife, the Jungle King 1, as a total package, is big and heavy, so you might not want to carry it far. Which brings us to the ‘Goldilocks’ model of the series, the Jungle King 2 – a practical carry option and still packed with features, including the secondary knife. It is understandable why this was copied so much.

As a Gen-Xer, these knives have been highly influential and are nostalgic; regardless of this, and current trends, let your hair down and have some fun with these strong and feature-packed knives.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Sharp ends on slingshot arms damaging the rubbers.
Factory edges are disappointing.
UK Only – JK1 is no longer legal as the blade is over 8″.
Saw back cut depth very limited.
JK3 compass cannot be used while fitted to the handle.
A metal handle will be VERY cold to use in winter.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Very robust all metal construction for JK1 and JK2.
Classic, Iconic and historically Influential design.
A choice of size to suit all.
Individually HRC hardness tested/verified blades.
Good edge performance and resilience during testing.
JK1 and JK2 include a secondary full tang knife.
Hollow handles carry survival essentials.
Slingshot incorporated into all models.
JK1 and JK2 include emergency cord.
JK1 and JK2 include a sharpening stone.
JK3 brings inclusivity for the younger user.
Fun to use.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 1:


Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 2:


Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 3:


Onto a full video review covering many more details of all three:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Epic Knife Review: Aitor Jungle King Series 1, 2 and 3 – Part 1

Join me in an epic super-detailed two-part review of the AITOR Jungle King knife series, the Jungle King 1, 2 and 3. For me, this style of knife focuses on the fun in outdoor knife use that is so often overlooked due to the fashion to dismiss any knife if it doesn’t have a full tang and the latest super-steel. Let’s allow ourselves the simple enjoyment of using different knives and with the Jungle King Series, Aitor have packed them with interesting, fun and useful features.

This epic review of the Aitor Jungle King Series knives is has so much detail I’ve had to split it into two parts. In this, the first part, you can see all the design details and features of each model – a technical presentation. Part two will then explore using the plethora of functions Aitor give you.

The Jungle King I is one of the most famous knives on the market, and as we know it now, was released in 1985 following the huge increase in demand for this style of knife, first made popular due to the movie ‘First Blood’ and its sequels.

It was not long before the Jungle King II joined its bigger brother, and then went on to be (probably) the most copied design ever for this type of survival knife. It is these inferior copies that gave the style of knife a bad name. The Aitor Jungle King II is not the same, as the hollow handle is made of metal and is built for heavy use. Each blade is Rockwell hardness tested during production, proudly shown on the blade in the “Hardness Control” circle engraved to highlight this quality control check.

The Jungle King III is the little brother of the Jungle King knife series. Agile and fast, its design is versatile and functional make it a very capable tool. The Jungle King III joins the family and gives you a choice of size and weight.

Jungle King knives have been issued as part of basic military equipment by some armed forces, including the Special Operations Unit of Marine Spanish Armed Forces. Over the years, the Jungle King has been considered by many experts as the best survival knife in the world, pioneering and unique, being one of the best in its category. Its design, versatility and functionality make it very useful for survival.

The entire Jungle King Series (at the time of writing) is represented in this review, so we’ll be looking at the Jungle King 1, 2 and 3 (or I, II and III).

Jungle King 1 – What’s in the box?:

The Jungle King arrives in a cardboard box, simply the sheathed knife and nothing else. I’ve included an initial indication of size as here it is held in my XL glove size hand.


A good look round the Jungle King 1’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

For this gallery we are looking at just the sheath, not any of the extras in it. A simple cord leg strap with snap together fastener is included. Then, sorry, but I do need to use the word ‘iconic’ , we have the iconic folding slingshot arms. The main body of the sheath is wrapped in cord. The cord serves two purposes, first is that it will be a seriously useful survival item, the other is that while stored on the sheath is covers up the sheath mounted sharpening stone which you can see peeking out as I pushed the cord aside slightly.
For the retention strap Aitor use a quick-release toggle type of fastener, more commonly used on military MOLLE pouches. Reliable and strong and unlike a press stud it can’t loosen over time. Similarly, the belt loop also has the quick-release toggle to open and allow it to be fitted to a belt without undoing the belt.


A good look round the Jungle King 1’s Kit – Things to look out for here are:

We saw a hint of this in the previous gallery; tucked into the sheath is a slide-out tray, and a full tang secondary knife / multi-tool.
Held within the tray are the slingshot rubbers, a small glass vial, and a magnesium block with firesteel. The back of the tray has a cut-out to house the secondary knife, plus a signaling mirror. Also on the tray are some molded in reminders for signaling protocols.
So, we actually have a whole other knife, the Aitor Skinner JK1, a full tang multi-purpose blade, with gut hook, spanner, bottle / can opener, and flat head screwdriver. Plenty of holes are provided to lash this to a pole as a spear point.
For the details of the Jungle King I hollow handle kit, please see the feature length video.


A good look round the Jungle King 1 Knife – Things to look out for here are:

Onto the Jungle King Knife itself. Big and full-metal construction makes this a beast. The handle is cast from the same steel as the blade, and the tailcap is non-magnetic stainless steel, so this is full stainless steel construction. As well as being epoxied into the handle, the blade tang has a large roll-pin driven through it to make the join very strong, while the front part of the handle is extended to further support the blade to handle join.
A hollow grind is used for the primary bevel, and the Jungle King features a saw-back using Aitor’s unique pattern. Don’t miss the fact that during production each blade is individually HRC tested and this test indentation is identified with an engraving on the blade to highlight it. The sweeping swedge finishes off the classic blade shape.
Unscrewing the tail-cap reveals the survival capsule kit in the handle, and inside the tail-cap is a button compass. There is an o-ring to keep the handle compartment water tight, and inside the handle a spring is used to stop the capsule rattling, and helpfully push it out slightly as you open the handle. For the details of the Jungle King I hollow handle kit, please see the feature length video.


Jungle King 2 – What’s in the box?:

The Jungle King 2 arrives in a cardboard box, simply the sheathed knife and nothing else.


A good look round the Jungle King 2’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

For this gallery we are looking at just the sheath, not any of the extras in it. As with the Jungle King I, a simple cord leg strap with snap together fastener is included. Then, again, we have the iconic folding slingshot arms. The main body of the sheath is wrapped in cord. The cord serves two purposes, first is that it will be a seriously useful survival item, the other is that while stored on the sheath it covers up the sheath mounted sharpening stone, which you can see peeking out as I pushed the cord aside slightly.
As with the Jungle King 1, for the Jungle King 2’s retention strap, Aitor use a quick-release toggle type of fastener, more commonly used on military MOLLE pouches. Reliable and strong and unlike a press stud it can’t loosen over time. Similarly, the belt loop also has the quick-release toggle to open and allow it to be fitted to a belt without undoing the belt.


A good look round the Jungle King 2’s Kit – Things to look out for here are:

Tucked into the sheath is a slide out tray, and a just as with the Jungle King 1, includes a full tang secondary knife / multi-tool.
Held within the tray are just the slingshot rubbers as there is less space inside the Jungle King 2’s sheath. The back of the tray has a cut-out to house the secondary knife, plus a signaling mirror. Also on the tray are some molded in reminders for signaling protocols.
So we do have a whole other knife, the Aitor Skinner JKII, a full tang multi-purpose blade, with gut hook, spanner, bottle / can opener, and flat head screwdriver. Plenty of holes are provided to lash this to a pole as a spear point.


A good look round the Jungle King 2 Knife – Things to look out for here are:

Onto the Jungle King 2 Knife itself. As with the Jungle King 1, the handle is cast from the same steel as the blade, and the tailcap is non-magnetic stainless steel, so this is full stainless steel construction. As well as being epoxied the blade tang has a large roll-pin driven through it to make the join very strong while the front part of the handle is extended to further support the blade to handle join.
A hollow grind is used for the primary bevel, and the knife features a saw back using Aitor’s unique pattern. Don’t miss the fact that during production each blade is individually HRC tested and this test indentation is identified with an engraving on the blade to highlight it. The sweeping swedge finished off the classic spear-point blade shape.
Unscrewing the tail-cap reveals the survival capsule kit in the handle and inside the tail-cap is a button compass. There is an o-ring to keep the handle compartment water tight, and inside the handle a spring is used to stop the capsule rattling, and push it out slightly as you open the handle.


A good look round the Aitor Jungle King 2 Survival Capsule – Things to look out for here are:

The survival capsule…usually this is opened straight away and then quickly lost, or just never touched. Of course the idea is to pack in as many useful things as possible, which might help you or make some survival tasks easier. Aitor’s survival capsule contains two standard plasters, a sterile No. 23 scalpel blade, tweezers, fire-steel, two small safety pins, two sewing needles, some thread, plus a fishing kit consisting of three pre-tied hooks, a longer piece of line and three split shot. (Plus, don’t forget that they can sometimes oddly useful, the two staples that closed the bag containing the fishing kit.)
All these things are better to have and not need, than to need and not have.


Jungle King 3 – What’s in the box?:

In keeping with the rest of the series, the Jungle King 3 arrives in a cardboard box, simply the sheathed knife and nothing else.


A good look round the Jungle King 3’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

Being a simpler, smaller, lighter design for a younger user, the Jungle King 3 sheath keeps some of the character, but has less detail.

A simple cord leg-tie lace is included and needs to be knotted to use. Despite the simplification, Aitor have still included the iconic folding slingshot arms. The back of the sheath has a strip of webbing running along it (we’ll come back to this).
For the Jungle King 3, the retention strap uses a press stud and the belt loop has a quick-release toggle to open and allow it to be fitted to a belt without undoing the belt.


A good look round the Jungle King 3’s Kit – Things to look out for here are:

For the smallest in the Jungle King series, the sheath ‘kit’ is not really a kit, it comprises only the slingshot bands, tucked behind that webbing strip on the back of the sheath.


A good look round the Jungle King 3 Knife – Things to look out for here are:

Onto the Jungle King 3 Knife itself. Stepping away from the all metal construction, instead the handle is made from fibreglass-reinforced polyamide. As well as being epoxied into the handle, the blade tang has a roll-pin driven through it to strengthen the join.
A hollow grind is used for the primary bevel, and the spine has a double-bevel serrated edge. The Jungle King 3 is also individually HRC tested and this test indentation is identified with an engraving on the blade to highlight it.
For the Jungle King 3, the compass is always visible in the end of the tail-cap (although you do need to remove it to use it as the blade affects the compass direction). Unscrewing the tail-cap reveals the brass thread inserts used to ensure the threads last well. Inside the handle is a slim survival capsule kit plus a combination tool designed to fit round the capsule. This tool has a can/bottle opener, pry tool and flat head screwdriver.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from MoVa / DIN 1.4116 which is identical to X50CrMOV15 steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Remembering all these factory edges were around 500 BESS, which is not sufficient for my testing, they look quite good under magnification, but all needed to be reprofiled. The Jungle King 2 was the best of the three from the factory, but all these knives were utterly transformed by a good edge.

Jungle King 1


Jungle King 2


Jungle King 3


Part 1 ends here with the review videos included below. See Part 2 for all the practical testing and insights plus a unique insight into the madness of UK knife law.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 1:


Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 2:


Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Jungle King 3:


Onto a full video review covering many more details of all three:


Gear Review: KMFS Vantaedge Integral Sharpener

STOP! Join me in this KMFS Vantaedge sharpener review to find out exactly why the KMFS Vantaedge integral sharpener is UNIQUE amongst guided sharpeners. The KMFS Vantaedge uses reverse kinematics to adjust the stone position constantly so that the angle of the stone to the blade is always the same, regardless of the length, shape, depth or position of the knife blade in the clamp.

The KMFS Vantaedge integral is the first guided sharpener that is able to completely eliminate the cutting edge angle drift at the tip of the knife, and makes it incredibly easy to achieve absolutely precise repeated sharpening of the knife without needing to worry about what position it is clamped in.

And this angle block is at the heart of how it works (along with the height adjusting guide rod).

What’s in the box?:
This review features the standard KMFS Vantaedge Integral kit, plus the optional extras of the hover-spring kit, Ruby stone and diamond stropping kit.
The gallery below is a run through of all of these elements, starting with the Vantaedge integral kit in its plastic carry case, then the hover-spring with stroke limiter clips (used to limit the movement of the stone holder), the Ruby 3000 grit polishing stone and leather strops with diamond paste.


A good look round the KMFS Vantaedge integral Components – Things to look out for here are:
Taking all the parts of the Vantaedge Integral kit and laying them out on my guided sharpener board to look at them before fully assembling the sharpener. This gallery shows the standard kit with no optional extras.
Please ignore the clamping plate which is not part of the kit, but is what I use to hold various sharpeners onto this board; it is positioned middle-bottom of the first image and has a wing nut and hand wheel.
Stepping through the Vantaedge integral components, first is the base and support post, which are then assembled. Instead of using the fours screw fixing holes, I’ve used my clamping plate to hold one corner firmly in place on the board.
The knife clamp and vertical guide assembly fits onto the top of the support post. Consisting of two parts, the stone holder and rails slide together.
Now we move onto one of the central components of this unique design, the angle setting block. This has four fixed angles 15°, 17.5°, 20° and 22.5° with the bolt for the stone guide rails being fitted into the corresponding hole in the angle block. In this case my favoured 17.5°, and tightened fully down. Ready now to fit the stone you want to use in the spring loaded stone holder.


A good look round the assembled KMFS Vantaedge integral – Things to look out for here are:
Now fully assembled, we are ready to clamp a knife in the holder to start sharpening. It is when the knife is in place that the system can work to maintain the stone-to-edge angle at any point along the cutting edge.
When the standard kit is used as supplied, the angle is correctly created when you push down on the stone holder’s handle, which then lifts to angle block into place, locking in the angle. Adding in the hover-spring and the spring lifts the angle block so the stone is already at the set angle when you bring it down onto the knife edge.


A few re-profiled edges up close:

This section has been included show some high magnification photos of the re-profiled edges described in the next section. They do look a bit messy, but there are a couple of reasons for this. Firstly the stones are not run-in which makes the grit progression unsettled and unreliable leaving a lot of deeper scratches. And secondly, the lighting of the magnified camera is very unflattering showing all the worst aspects.
Also bear in mind these are the first views of a major reprofiling from about 45dps to 17.5dps so they are completely newly formed edges and subsequent resharpening with the finer grits will continue to improve them.


What is it like to use?

Please take a look at the videos produced for this review as these will give you some really detailed insights, lessons learned and tips.
Out of necessity, and as it was a good test, I had a few knives needing a full edge reprofiling. This is a lot of work on a manual system and can frequently cause fatigue leading to mistakes. I normally use a belt grinder to do the major part of the reprofile, so doing this by hand is a bit of a shock to the system, but has been very revealing in the use of the Vantaedge.
Something I’ll drop in right away is that I would consider the hover spring and stroke limiter add-on an essential. Without this you have two issues. It is all too easy to allow the stone to drop to a lower working angle than you want and cut away the shoulder of the edge bevel accidentally (caused by not quite applying enough downward pressure on the stone handle to fully lock in the angle) – the hover spring eliminates this issue entirely.
Then the stroke limiters; also caused by being distracted and fatigued, it is easy to overshoot the edge with the stone and the protective brass pins that stop your hand reaching the cutting edge still allow the corner of the stone to ride up onto the primary bevel scratching it. This is cosmetic damage and annoying when you do it (I was annoyed with myself). The stroke limiter clips can be arranged along the guide rods to prevent this happening (wish I had known this before I started the first reprofile).
So this means the main two issues I have with the standard kit are completely resolved by the hover-spring and stroke limiter add-on; just get this optional extra you won’t look back.
With the hover-spring and stroke limiters in place, the main difficulty is working right to the very tip. You can improve this by re-clamping the knife to just work the tip, but I’ll explain a little more. The way the angle fixing mechanism works it also stops the stone twisting along its length. This was actually making the stone miss the tip of the knife unless you work right to, and frequently slipping off, the side of the stone. I became a little more forceful with the stone holder, flexing the twin rod guide to make it reach the very tip without slipping off. To be able to clamp the knife so that the tip is presented perpendicular to the stone’s stroke you end up having to use only one side of the clamp. The special function of the KMFS system allows this to work by locking-in the correct angle, but the blade is less stable. As long as you are aware of this characteristic of the Vantaedge you can work with it. I found it best to use a marker pen like a metalworker’s layout fluid to show me if I was missing any of the tip and make sure I then re-clamped or flexed the stone holder to catch it.
Changing sides of the blade was very easy, with the stone and guide rods lifting effortlessly out of the clamp, allowing you to lift and flip the clamp, then reinsert the rod and carry on. Swapping stones in the sprung stone holder was also super easy and quick.
I did give myself quite a job with the major reprofiling of three blades, and although there was a lot of metal needing to be removed, the Vantaedge was a pleasure to use. From one session to another, the blade can be removed, checked, and re-clamped with no effect on the resulting edge angle. So much better than having to ensure the blade is positioned as closely to how it was the last time (checking notebooks, and measuring how it is clamped), you no longer even have to think about this, just clamp and go.


Having initially given myself the worst job I could to do, I also threw in a couple of smaller folding knife touch ups. This was much, much, much easier. What I found with the smaller blades was that it worked better for me using only one of the clamping jaws to hold the blade, but allowing the spine to press against the tips of the other clamp jaw for support, and to give easier access to the blade tip on the smaller blade.

Some of the results are shown here, with both phonebook-type paper cuts and BESS measurements. These are 100% from the Vantaedge with the largest blade having a hair popping 176g edge.

Touch-ups will be very easy, and if you have the space to leave the Vantaedge assembled and ready to go, you’ll only need a minute or two to get back to full sharpness without any fuss.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Overshooting with the stone scratches the primary bevel.
The very tip can be difficult to work properly.
If you don’t apply enough downward pressure the angle will be too low.
Hover-spring not included as standard (just get it).

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

The MOST consistent angle of any guided sharpening system FULL STOP.
Never need to worry about clamping position, the angle will be correct.
Super smooth action thanks to linear bearings for all guide rods.
Quick and easy touch-ups.
3000 grit Ruby stone leaves a fantastic working edge.
Optional leather strops can be used with or without diamond paste.
Hover-spring kit with stroke limiters transforms the Vantaedge – get them.
Superb engineering and attention to detail.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto an Epic Review Movie feature length video covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Light Review: NITECORE EDC29

NITECORE EDC29 Luminblade, a Detailed Review – The EDC29 is the latest, largest and most powerful of the ultra-slim, high performance lights and now features a maximum rated output of 6500 lumens in the ‘Lumin Shield’ mode. Can it really output 6500 Lumens? Tactical Reviews tests the actual output the results; all will be revealed in this NITECORE EDC29 Luminblade Review.
Classified a ‘Luminblade’ the EDC29’s ‘Lumin Shield’ is specified as 6500 Lumens; Luminblade, Lumin Shield, Lumens almost getting me tongue tied in the review videos!! This maximum output is from the dual NiteLab UHi 20 MAX LEDs and is powered by a built-in 2500mAh li-ion battery which is rechargeable via USB-C.

What is in the box?:
The EDC29 is securely held in a tray insert you side out of the box. In the lower section are a USB-C charging cable, clip lanyard, instructions and warranty card.


A good look round the EDC29 – Things to look out for here are:
Immediately the EDC29’s armoured design and grip panels give it a unique and striking look. The EDC29 features stainless steel shells front and back that clamp firmly onto a carbon fibre composite frame. On the back is a long pocket clip with integral lanyard hole. A very welcome addition on the EDC29 is the sliding lockout switch. The multi-functional OLED display provides real-time information on the brightness level, battery voltage, remaining runtime and remaining power.
Two two-stage tail switch buttons control the various outputs, with direct access to the Search and Lumin Shield wall-of-light tactical modes. On the opposite side to the lockout switch is a covered USB-C charging port.
Lurking in the head of the EDC29 are dual NiteLab UHi 20 MAX LEDs – TWO monster 9 core LEDs! All along the EDC29, the carbon fibre composite frame is visible through cut-outs in the stainless shell.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

With the constant output modes and the tactical modes being so far apart, representing the beam is not that easy. High, is 1200lm, which is perfectly bright, but then the Search and Lumin Shield blow this away. So in this gallery I have attempted to give an idea of the highest constant mode with the maximum output. For the indoors then outdoor photos, it starts with High (which doesn’t look that much as it is in direct comparison to the even higher modes), then Search, then Lumin Shield. The outdoor set show this more clearly as there is more range and variation.


Quick comparison to the EDC27:
I’ve been carrying the EDC27 for some time, and even this light surprised me, so it makes sense to do a quick comparison of the EDC27 and EDC29 side-by-side. Consider the maximum output has jumped to more than double, so the EDC29 is a little bigger. I am most certainly not retiring the EDC27, it has some limitations with the lockout process that the EDC29 fixes, but has a lot to offer. However, in my EDC bag the EDC29 has taken its place.
This gallery shows you the overall shape/size comparison.


Batteries and output:

The EDC29 runs on a built-in 2500mAh li-ion battery.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Light Testing Information.

Starting off with a quick list of the manufacturer specified levels and runtime:

Lumin Shield (floodlight): 6500 lumens
Search (spotlight): 3000 lumens
High: 1200 lumens – 2 hrs runtime
Mid: 400 lumens – 3 hrs runtime
Low: 100 lumens – 13 hrs runtime
Ultralow: 15 lumens – 61 hrs runtime

The Tactical Reviews actual measured output figures, normally list ANSI measurements, but the Search and Lumin Shield outputs are shorter than the 30s required for ANSI, so these are handled differently. Both are around 8s in duration and drop from the turn-on output.

In this table I have included ‘peak’ – momentary initial output burst, and ‘mid-run’ – the level halfway through the short run of these ultra-high modes. As both drop to ‘high’ mode after the maximum output, the ANSI output would actually match the high mode. Instead we have access to a brief dazzling wall of light. And yes, the EDC29 does meet and exceed the 6500 lm specified. By quite some margin!

Then we get onto the maximum constant output mode run. This is carried out with cooling fan allowing the light to keep a higher output than without any cooling. It does mean the runtime is lower, as the output level is higher. I mention this as the specified runtime for this mode is 2 hours, but this graph shows the end of the runtime at one hour. However this entire hour is actually at 90% of rated output rather than a more significant sag.


The EDC29 in use

Nitecore have nailed the interface, the direct access to the lowest and highest modes, the dedicated sliding lockout switch, mode pre-selection, and OLED screen keeping you informed. All of this makes it so usable, I can’t stress strongly enough how these features give you easy control and access to exactly what you want.

Now, for me, the ‘ultra-low’ mode is most definitely NOT ultra-low, and I would want this to ideally be sub-lumen (less than 1 lumen). For those middle-of-the-night, with dark adapted eyes, need for some light, the EDC29’s ultra-low is actually blinding so I would ceiling-bounce this if I had no one else to consider.

Like all of these wonderful multi-function lights, they are not really ‘tactical’. High stress situations need one mode, one button, fully accessible switch designs you can mash without any feeling through a thick glove. The EDC29 is operated by dual-stage buttons on the tail of the torch which you can’t feel through a glove, and the dual-stage cannot be felt through a glove either. This is not a criticism of the EDC29, only a reality of its super functional design.
The ‘customisable’ button, the one you use for Search and Lumin Shield, is effectively slightly recessed. This is just as well as it turns on the maximum output. But it means it is less accessible for a gloved thumb. Without gloves, it can be a little too easy to press if you try to reach over it to the main power button, so when I’m using the normal modes, I make sure I hold the EDC29 with that main power button towards my thumb, not away. Take a look at this gallery for this.

Also in the gallery you can see the Search / Lumin Shield, count down power meter. The reality is you are never going to watch this as you use it, but while you are getting used to the EDC29 and how it works, it is very helpful to see the countdown and recovery for these modes.


A great advantage of the OLED screen is being able to check the battery state. Having not kept much of an eye on the voltage being displayed, the EDC29 told me the battery was low, in words. I actually wanted to empty the battery so I could get an idea of the capacity when recharging it from empty. With the charger I use (QC intelligent), the EDC29 was taking 1.44A input on the 5V charge output. This particular charge cycle put 2300mAh into the 2500mAh battery, so I probably could have pushed the EDC29 a little further before recharging.


Multi-function lights can be fiddly to use, and introduce complexity and confusion. For the EDC29 Nitecore have managed to combine functionality and ease of use. The dedicated lockout switch, for one, makes safe carry and immediate reactivation simple and intuitive. Information from the OLED screen ensures you know if it is time to top up the battery or if this isn’t needed. Permanent (assuming it is unlocked) direct access to the lowest mode via a half-press of the power button makes it the light you reach for, for all those little jobs. Similarly, the same direct access to a wall-of-light, means you feel it is ready to protect and serve. Mode pre-selection rounds up the excellent usability; checking and changing your pre-selected mode without actually turning it on is so useful.
You couldn’t hand the EDC29 to someone with no experience or knowledge without explaining a couple of things, but it is so easy understand they will be using it straight away.

NITECORE EDC29 Luminblade Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

‘Ultra-Low’ is not low enough at 17lm.
A little too easy to accidentally activate the Lumin Shield.
The pocket clip is very stiff.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Dedicated Lockout slider switch.
Direct access to the lowest output.
Direct access to the maximum output.
Informative OLED display.
Output mode pre-selection.
Slim profile.
Carbon Fibre composite frame.
Stainless Steel Armoured body.
USB-C charging.
Two NiteLab UHi 20 MAX 9-core LEDs.
Massive 8675 Lumen peak output!!

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
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