Knife Review: Civivi Sentinel Strike and Vision FG

The Vision FG and Sentinel Strike are two of Civivi‘s best sellers. In this detailed review of the Vision FG and Sentinel Strike we are taking a close look at two versions of these knives featuring Civivi’s genuine Damascus steel blades. The Vision FG, designed by Snecx Tan, is equipped with the ‘Superlock Mechanism’. The ‘Superlock Mechanism’ is a lock design Snecx and WE Knife worked on together develop. For this lock, the back of the handle has a titanium bar which hinges just below the pocket clip. The bar is spring loaded and pushed into a cut-out between the blade and the stop pin – the lock gets stronger the more pressure you apply. Push the bar backwards and the blade unlocks easily.
The Sentinel Strike has a reverse-tanto blade shape. Its straight edge makes it an ideal knife for so many cutting tasks. The knife is easy to open with the thumb studs, flipper or large hole in the blade, and it has a very smooth opening action. The blade is locked in place with a button lock.

Join me in this review of the Vision FG and Sentinel Strike to see why these Civivi knives are so popular.

What’s in the box?:

These are in the 2024 10th Anniversary boxes, with WE Knives / Civivi becoming 10 years old in 2024. Both knives use the same packaging and have the same contents apart from the knives themselves. Considering the price point, the fact they include a nice zip up storage case is a bonus. Also included are a few stickers and a cleaning cloth.


A good look round the Vision FG – Things to look out for here are:

Mainly as it was the first of the two I picked up, we are starting with the Vision FG. Featuring a genuine Damascus steel blade, the composition of which is included later in the review, also happens to be different to the Damascus used in the other knife in this review and makes for a very distinctive look.

This version of the Vision FG has the black Micarta handles on top of the steel liners; there is a black G10 as well, so you can choose the feel of the scales you prefer. This gallery focuses closely on details like the handle texture, thumb-stud, and pivot fixings including Civivi’s branded bolt head.
The pocket clip is a tip-up position and can be fitted to either side of the handle.
For the Vision FG, it uses the ‘Superlock Mechanism’, designed by Snecx. Without the literature, I would have continued referring to this as a recoil lock, as in operation it is very similar to this. On closer inspection, the locking process involves inserting a bar between the blade locking surface and the stop bar (much like a compression lock). As your hand pushes this into place while gripping the knife, it becomes even more secure as you use it, yet easy to disengage.


A good look round the Sentinel Strike – Things to look out for here are:

Next we have a recent addition in the Sentinel Strike range where the combination of handle colour and Damascus was added to the original Strike line up (there is also a Strike II with drop point blade).

This time the handle is a combination of aluminium (with a choice of colours) and the integral spacer, made from FRN which helps keep the weight down. It is also fitted with a stainless-steel pocket clip incorporating a glass breaker into the head of its fixing bolt.
The Sentinel Strike has a flipper tab, thumb stud and opening hole in the blade, plus it is a button-lock mechanism, giving you a multitude of ways to open it.
As with all Civivi folders, the pivot bolt head is branded to confirm its identity.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from Civivi’s Damascus steel.
For the Strike, according to the information from Damascus supplier, the base materials of the Damascus is compound by 10Cr15CoMoV and 9Cr18MoV.
For the Vision FG, the Damascus steels used in this knife are 10Cr15CoMov steel in its core with 316 and 5Cr15Mov steel in layers.

For comparison the measure parameters are shown side by side here.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Vision FG’s factory Edge – Starting with a close up of the engraved text, just for the sake of interest.
NOTE: these are of a used edge, not factory fresh.


Sentinel Strike’s factory Edge – following use, there is some micro-chipping showing in some areas instead of rolling.
NOTE: these are of a used edge, not factory fresh.


What is it like to use?

Both of these Civivi bestsellers are a good size, but I was surprised by just how much of a hefty EDC knife the Sentinel Strike is (in length if not weight); with its blade length of 91 mm, it is up to more demanding cutting tasks.
It is not that the Vision FG is small, but you can see the Sentinel Strike is substantial in my XL Glove sized hands with the handle clearly visible either side of my hand.


Shown with the knives are a couple of my favourite Civivi EDC extras, the tiny pry-bar, and precise folding tweezers (in case you wondered what these were).
Both of the knives were just put to use on a variety of jobs around the home and garden. Entering the constant battle against encroaching ivy and hacking this back wherever it pops up. No mercy (but also no abuse), for the blade tip, which is quite fine and pointy on the Sentinel Strike, and no problems.
Though the Vision FG is also a reverse-tanto / Wharncliffe style blade, it is less pointy, and for many jobs makes it a bit easier to handle and control. The micarta handle is ‘softer’ to grip (without being soft, but this is a way in which micarta feels gentler and easier to hold compared to G10), and though the handles are slab like in shape, it is comfortable enough to hold.


The close-up edge images included in this review are, unusually, ‘used’ rather than factory fresh. Of the two, the Sentinel Strike has starting to show some micro-chipping, but without noticeably blunting. Of the two, this blade was probably given the harder tasks, so this isn’t unexpected, and the characteristic of this edge damage means a strop won’t help (as the edge isn’t rolled) but also the micro-chipping creates a micro-serration which can actually be very effective.
Altogether, the edge performance has been good with these factory edges.

Both knives have a large sharpening choil; so large it might be confused for a finger choil on the Sentinel Strike. I would not use either of these knives’ choils as a finger choil. There may be a design reason for this, perhaps to prevent the heel of the edge hitting part of the locking mechanism, or stop pin, so there may be no other option. The problem for me is that it takes the closest part of the cutting edge further from the handle, and so loses mechanical advantage for heavy cuts. If even a mm or two could be added to the cutting edge, it would improve them for me, but it might not be possible.

What is apparent on real hands-on use of these knives is that for the price point the quality is surprising. Both the knives are using mechanisms that are much more complex than a liner lock, and that give a great user experience (I do especially like a button lock). We all have different preferences and budgets for our ‘users’ and Civivi have hit a great sweet spot in pricing, performance and user experience.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Sentinel Strike – Long hole in blade accumulates dirt.
Sentinel Strike – Overly large sharpening choil wastes edge space.
Sentinel Strike – Thin pocket clip is a bit sharp.
Vision FG – Overly large sharpening choil wastes edge space.
Vision FG – Thumb stud a little too recessed.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Sentinel Strike – Well executed button lock.
Sentinel Strike – Very easy to open, by flipper, blade hole or thumb stud.
Sentinel Strike – Very easy one-handed close.
Sentinel Strike – Comfortable thumb jimping.
Sentinel Strike – Low weight for a large knife.
Sentinel Strike – Super smooth bearings.
Sentinel Strike – Damascus blade.
Sentinel Strike – Ambidextrous tip-up pocket clip.
Sentinel Strike – Long slim blade has great reach.
Vision FG – Intuitive and easy to use ‘Superlock Mechanism’.
Vision FG – Very easy one-handed close.
Vision FG – Super smooth bearings.
Vision FG – Damascus blade.
Vision FG – Locking force increases as you grip the knife.
Vision FG – Ambidextrous tip-up pocket clip.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review of the Vision FG:
NOTE: The Vision FG uses the ‘Superlock Mechanism’, designed by Snecx, and throughout the video I refer to this as a ‘recoil lock’ which isn’t strictly correct. I wasn’t going to re-record the video to correct this, so please take this as the correction.


Starting with a short format sixty second review Sentinel Strike:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Viper Twin

In this Viper Twin review we will be taking a detailed look at this new knife. The Twin is a small and elegant slipjoint gentleman’s pocket knife, especially suitable for every day use. It was designed by Fabrizio Silvestrelli who has been collaborating with Viper for years in the development of new knives.

Each of the Twin’s handles are made from one piece of titanium formed into the body, liner and bolsters, making it very strong, and it is offered with a choice of different colours of scale inserts. You can choose from Dark Matter Gold carbon fiber and the ivory G10 or as shown here, the green Canvas micarta. The Twin also comes with a leather slip case.

The blade is made from M390 stainless steel, an excellent combination of edge retention and corrosion resistance. It is non-locking slipjoint design, and the cutting edge is under three inches long making the knife friendly carry in many places.

What’s in the box?:
This is more of a ‘what would have been in the box’ as I don’t have the box. This knife was a display piece at IWA 2024, so you may see a few marks that would not be there on a new knife, and I have only the slip case and knife.


A good look round the Twin – Things to look out for here are:

This gallery is quite a large one, covering all the main aspects of the Twin. Starting with a detail of the pivot bolt in the integral bolster, moving to the other end of the handle with rear integral bolster and lanyard hole. The spacer/back-spring of the Twin is polished making for a stand out feature next to the matt titanium. The fit of the handle scale, and the one-piece construction of each titanium handle can be seen. My personal preference of phosphor-bronze washers are used for the blade pivot.
Swinging out the blade, initially to the half stop. A drop-point with long swedge gives this a powerful look. Focusing in on a few smaller details on the M390 blade, and into the handle. The final image is of the blade tip with factory edge.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from M390 steel.

Being a slipjoint, the blade’s resistance to opening and closing is a key feature. One of the Tactical Review’s tests is to measure the torque required to open and close the blade, and in here including the half stop. This is done using a force meter and applying it to the blade at a set distance from the pivot.

The final measurements are as follows. A crucial factor you can see in these results is that the closing force is significantly higher than the opening force, making the blade stable during use even though it is non-locking.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

There are a few more images than I normally include as I found this knife, despite being a show knife, still had some burrs from the factory sharpening. A quick strop would remove them quickly and this edge was very good, so this is out of interest more than anything else.


What is it like to use?

As a non-locking knife I’m able to properly EDC it, and have been carried this knife for a considerable time. My nails don’t like nail nicks, and I always pinch-open the blade of the Twin, which is reassuringly firm in its action. The size is both easy to carry but also substantial enough you don’t feel it is lacking, certainly not for typical EDC use. The wide flat ground blade makes light work of various jobs and slices well.
This gallery shows it in my XL glove-size hands.
In the last two images in this gallery (one of which is included full size at the end of the review) you can just make out the modification I have made, which for me completes the Twin, and that is adding a sharpening choil. I find that small point detail incredibly useful when I’m doing certain cuts so I’ll often add this feature if it isn’t there.


You might have noticed the review ‘feature image’ makes the blade appear very dark, and then in the review introduction, another similar image with the blade full of light. And just below here is another version somewhere between. Of course the blade is very reflective and the changing light gives very different character to the blade. Though the feature image is absolutely real, it is not really representative of how you see the Twin most of the time, it was however striking and interesting looking, so I put it as the headline feature image for that reason.

With the minor modification I made (adding the sharpening choil), the Twin is a firm favourite of mine and will be difficult to displace from my daily EDC.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

No sharpening choil (but I added one).

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Reassuringly firm blade retention torque.
Stable construction.
Polished back-spring detail stands out.
M390 steel giving excellent edge retention.
Slim and easy to carry.
Strong wide blade.
Leather slip case included.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Puma Automesser (2024 update)

Now with a 2024 update, this is a look at a classic design dating back to 1956. Join me in a detailed review of the Puma “Automesser” model; but not quite as you know it, this is a new variant first made available in 2024. The Automesser model is a classic knife that has been proving capable of withstanding the most demanding use for over 60 years. Basically the same knife as Puma’s White Hunter (which was created in 1956), the Automesser uses the same blade but has a wooden handle and was introduced in the 1960s.

Despite loving them, there was always one small detail that prevented me embracing them fully – the gristle saw. After discussions with Puma, I’m thrilled to announce that this has now been updated as an option so you can choose! In this new variant, you can opt to have a full plain edge instead of having to have the gristle saw which has always been positioned at the exact point I most want a plain edge for precise carving and cutting.

The blade shape is carefully thought out to be capable of a wide range of tasks. The sturdy tip is robust enough to open cans or pry open crown bottle caps. A hatchet edge is ground into the back of the blade for rough work such as splitting firewood or chopping bones. The “Automesser” is equipped with plum wood scales, which are firmly riveted to the full tang, and this classic model is just as relevant today as it was when first produced.

What’s in the box?:

This exact knife was the first Automesser without the gristle saw so has been to various exhibitions, the last being IWA 2024. I believe this is the full normal presentation, but it is possible you might see something slightly different.
The sheathed Automesser is accompanied by a certification leaflet.
In the last photo in this gallery I have placed a White Hunter promotional paper flier, in the exact (and to scale) outline of this original model, to show the direct relation of the two models that share the same blade.


A good look round the Automesser Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

A classic leather sheath for a classic knife. The Automesser sheath has an unusual waisted design, gently following the shape of the blade. A braided leg tie cord is included and is fitted through a hollow rivet. Rivets are used to further strengthen the ends of the heavy duty stitching. Overall the sheath is constructed from a single piece of leather, but does include welts in the main part of the sheath for shaping and to protect the stitching from being cut when sheathing and unsheathing the knife. The main retention strap has a Puma branded press stud fastening.
You might also note the loop of braided cord in the belt loop; this is an additional retention option (when looped over the handle) which you can use for extra security or if the press stud has become loose.


A good look round the Puma Automesser – Things to look out for here are:

Puma’s blade design is a work-of-art, with a weight-forward reinforced tip and sweeping curves. Each new Puma also has a Rockwell sticker on the blade pointing to a small testing mark. This is the actual, individual, hardness check indentation, with each and every single blade tested to verify the hardness.
For the Automesser, Puma use Plum wood handle scales riveted to the full tang with brass rivets. A well defined grip hook is incorporated into the butt of the handle to make the chance of the knife slipping out of your hand very unlikely.
A half guard protects your fingers from slipping forward onto the blade, and allows the thumb to be positioned onto the thumb ramp that sits above the ricasso and heel of the cutting edge.
At the tip, the blade widens to put weight and strength where it gives most advantage. The swedge shape is flat enough for batoning, meaning you can chop into wood and then easily finish the split with a baton strike to the swedge. The main spine of the blade is given a ‘hatchet’ grind for chopping and splitting, but if you do use this, you can’t really baton onto the main cutting edge.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from 1.4116 steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

With all the curves on the Automesser, the factory edge varies quite a bit, so a few more images are included here just to give a better impression of this edge.


What is it like to use?

For a general purpose knife, the Automesser is a great fit. I take XL size gloves, and you can see here there is room between the guard and grip hook for me to also wear gloves (this is quite important – more on that later). Excellent grip provided by the jimping on the thumb ramp, make this super useful for finer work or when you need that extra pressure behind the cutting edge, the edge which is now a plain edge.


You’ll want to take this knife with you, it longs to be out in the woods. For me, with this full plain edge, I’ve now got the power and control where I work a blade most. Here, some seasoned oak is shaved with ease using the prime cutting zone of this hollow ground edge.

With an obvious weight-forward blade, though this broader tip also leans towards skinning tasks, it also gives the blade much more chopping power than another of the same length. Rather than the much softer green wood, I’m testing here on tough pallet wood. The first strike binding slightly, as you would expect with a hollow grind, but chips then start flying and the final strike splitting the board (mainly due to the board fixings not holding securely enough to support the chopping force).
You might notice I am wearing a glove for this cutting test. I found the handle grip hook a little sharp and when chopping, its corner was digging into my little finger, so I went with gloves. Once wearing a glove, the knife remained secure and I was comfortable too. For any hard chopping I would definitely want to wear gloves. Being hand made, the grip hook detail varies slightly and is more pronounced on this example than others I’ve seen.


Before I explain the final gallery, I wanted to mention a minor aspect of the sheath I’m not so keen on; the waisted design. Over time and after more sharpening sessions this is going to ease, but in the example I have, the blade jams once the wide tip reaches the narrowed waist. Particularly after giving the Automesser its first full re-sharpen, I can feel it bite into the welt and maybe even the main sheath itself as the blade bulge passes this narrowed area. The ‘bite’ is what worries me, and I then tend to back off and try again, so making the insertion and removal of the knife not smooth.
With some flattening out of the sheath at this point (as shown below I’m squeezing this area) and general wear, it is going to improve, but I would definitely have preferred a straight shape to the sheath. Perhaps not as elegant looking, but more reliable for dropping the knife back in and taking it out again. Of course this does mean the knife is less likely to fall out if the press stud is not secured, so this might be a plus to other people.

In this last gallery I wanted to show the additional knife retention system Puma include, which is unusual and not often seen. If you want to stabilise the handle when carrying it, or in case you accidentally damage, or cut off the retention strap, which is a danger on any sheath with this type of strap, or the press stud gets worn and no longer holds as securely as it used to, you have a backup option. I would consider this a backup as it can be a bit fiddly to use, but faced with possibly losing the knife, it is a great option.
On the front of the belt loop is a cord loop. You can pass this cord over the handle, twist it and bring it back over the handle, twist it and pass it back over the handle a final time.
Even with the retention strap not done up, the knife can then only come out of the sheath partially.


Puma’s Automesser, now with the option of a full plain edge, has made this much sought after classic blade all the more useful. I would always have been working around the gristle saw, and though this is a good feature for many, for me it always left this beautiful blade a second place – not any more. Classics are classics for good reason, and the Automesser/White Hunter aesthetics stand out along with proven functionality. This optional minor change lifts the usability of this knife to new levels and I can’t wait to carry this more.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Grip hook ‘bites’ a little when chopping.
Waisted sheath makes sheathing and unsheathing catchy.
Slightly blocky handle.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Timeless classic design.
Traditional leather sheath.
Excellent chopping power in a compact blade.
Blade has been individually hardness checked.
Materials used are steel, aluminium, brass, wood, cotton and leather (no plastic).
Full plain edge now available (from 2024).
Tried-and-tested design dating back to 1956.
Secondary retention strap/cord.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Spyderco Manix 2 Salt

I’m a huge fan of Spyderco’s (ultra-low maintenance) Salt series; join me in a detailed review of the new Spyderco Manix 2 Lightweight Salt. The Manix 2 Salt combines classic signature Spyderco design with MagnaCut blade steel and super-corrosion-resistant handle components and fixings. Using a fibreglass-reinforced co-polymer (FRCP) handle ensures high strength and low weight. This model features a high visibility yellow handle that includes Spyderco’s signature Bi-Directional Texture grip pattern for a very secure grip in all conditions.

What’s in the box?:
This Manix 2 Salt comes in the familiar Spyderco box. Included with the knife is a sticker and a leaflet about the exact model of knife.


A good look round the Manix 2 Salt – Part 1 – Things to look out for here are:
Starting with this gallery showing details of the Manix 2 when folded. The bright yellow handle making this Salt series knife really stand out. So often this high visibility can actually be one of the best safety and survival features, as you are much less likely to lose the knife, and can always spot it quickly when you put it down.
Spyderco have covered the handle with textured grip features, from the signature bi-directional texturing on the main flats of the handle to molded in jimping in several areas.
Also featuring another Spyderco signature design element, the tip-up wire spring pocket clip that can be fitted on either side of the handle. The Manix 2 Salt uses Spyderco’s Ball Bearing lock, and this has a black slider that contrasts against the yellow handle. Ending this gallery as the blade is opened.


A good look round the Manix 2 Salt – Part 2 – Things to look out for here are:
Opening the blade to reveal yet another Spyderco signature design – the full-flat-grind leaf-shaped blade with large opening hole. The lock slider shown at its maximum position, before it springs forward to engage the ball bearing; the coil locking spring is clearly visible.
Jimping has been added on the blade next to the handle for both the first finger and thumb to ensure a rock solid grip. This Salt series knife comes in CPM MagnaCut, and when you look at the engraving it is quite different in appearance to most Spyderco’s, even leading some who have seen this knife to question its authenticity. This is not in question as it was handed to me by Spyderco at IWA 2024, so is without question the real deal.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from CPM MagnaCut steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Spyderco reliably produces exceptional factory edges, and this Manix 2 Salt is true to form.


What is it like to use?

Manix 2 is a generous sized knife, but the FRN handle and lack of steel liners keeps the weight right down, and despite the size is an unobtrusive carry, almost too easy to forget you are carrying it.

You can see how substantial it looks in the hand (I take XL sized gloves), substantial, but light and comfortable to hold. With the choked up grip position, the knife almost seems to shrink when you adjust your grip for more precise work.

The large leaf-shaped full-flat-grind blade is very very ‘slicey’ and eager to part materials. Just the geometry wants to cut, and partnered with a great factory edge it cuts with ease right out of the box.


Putting it to good use for a couple of plumbing/bathroom jobs, but not even starting to test the corrosion resistance. Speaking of which I have previously carried out a sea water soak and exposure test on a Salt model, giving amazing results, as the knife was completely untouched by this. I wasn’t set up for this sea water test, so haven’t completed a similar corrosion test, but am confident from previous experience, and the fact this knife uses MagnaCut, that is will also be a waste of time.

Not only does this ‘Salt series’ make a great choice for highly corrosive environments, but it also allows you to have a virtually maintenance-free knife.

An ideal outdoor companion, with that high visibility handle making it a challenge to lose in the woods. Highly usable, and a real work-horse of a knife that is eager to get on with the next job.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

No sharpening choil. (might be a ‘pro’ for some)
Sides of the blade jimping are a bit sharp.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Completely corrosion free.
Lightweight without sacrificing strength.
Large full-flat blade cuts with ease.
Great size for all-round use.
Secure Ball Bearing lock.
High visibility.
MagnaCut steel.
Ambidextrous pocket clip.
Very accessible large opening hole.
Excellent grip all over and around.
Top-notch factory edge.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: lionSTEEL Skinny

Join me in this lionSTEEL Skinny review (new for 2024), to take in all the details of this EDC folding knife. Made using lionSTEEL’s SOLID technology: the frame is made by milling a single solid piece of titanium or aluminium, producing a handle that is incredibly strong.
Skinny is very light and strong with the benefit that it fits into the pocket easily. Featuring a CPM MagnaCut steel blade in either stonewash or OldBlack finish.
The specific knife featured in this review was a display model used throughout IWA 2024, so might show a few imperfections.

What’s in the box?:

lionSTEEL use packaging like this for many of their folders. Made out of cardboard, but constructed so that it has structure and substance, and becoming more like a case than simple box.
Inside this box are the Skinny and a small bag containing the U-Tool and a blanking screw. The U-Tool includes a spanner to fit the pocket clip bolt and a torx bit for the removable flipper tab (and fitting that blanking screw).


A good look round the Skinny Part 1 – the handle – Things to look out for here are:
For the detailed galleries I’ve split this into three parts to cover a main overview of the folded knife, then with the blade open and details of the blade, and finally the REF (Removable flipper) system.
Skinny is a Molletta design, and has a deep carry steel pocket clip which can be fitted on either side of the frame using the “U-Tool” included in the box.
The handle is a lionSTEEL SOLID (milled from one single piece of titanium). In this version it has a Fat Carbon inlay on one side (and the integral lock bar on the other side).


A good look round the Skinny Part 2 – the blade – Things to look out for here are:
Pivoting out the long and slim MagnaCut blade really explains the reason for the knife’s name. Despite being slim, the Skinny is still a good sized knife overall and doesn’t feel ‘slight’.
The lock bar is reinforced with a hardened steel insert with an over travel stop, and the blade pivots on an IKBS ball bearing.


A good look round the Skinny Part 3 – the REF (Removable flipper) system – Things to look out for here are:
The Skinny is equipped with the lionSTEEL REF (Removable flipper) system, so if you don’t want the flipper you can unscrew the tab using the T6 torx tool and fit the second screw you find in the box to cap off the hole.
This slims the Skinny down even further, and the ‘nail nick’, which is actually a milled slot, then gives you the purchase to grip the blade and open it manually.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from MagnaCut steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Remember this was a demo knife at IWA 2024, so in a couple of these photos you can see some handling related edge damage, which you would otherwise not expect to see on the factory edge. It is shown out of interest that the edge damage is in the form of rolls and not chipping.


What is it like to use?

lionSTEEL are well known for their overbuilt folders including the TM-1 shown in the gallery for comparison. The Skinny is just as long as these larger folders, but significantly slimmer. This makes it so much easier to EDC, as it becomes very low profile in your pocket.
Shown here (in a hand taking an XL size glove), the Skinny is still a good sized knife and handles well. The fine blade is quite ‘pointy’ and is well suited to deep piercing cuts. One of the advantages of flipper tabs is that they act as a finger guard during use. This is true with the Skinny, but the shaped handle also incorporates a finger guard, so that even with the REF removed, grip and safety are not affected.


There are a couple of minor criticisms/observations that I’ll mention. The pocket clip, when mounted on the lock bar side, unfortunately lines up with the edge of the lock bar spring cut out. When you try to push the Skinny over the edge of your pocket, the cloth is pushed into lock bar spring cut out and jams, not allowing the clip to slip onto the pocket edge. This only affects fitting it to your pocket, not taking it out, and only when the clip is on the lock bar side. I have fitted the clip to the inlay side.
Shorter than most clips, the Skinny’s deep carry pocket clip is however, just right for grabbing the top edge of your pocket securely; no need for more, it is just right.
Something I have never experienced with any other integral lock folder, and that I believe has been noticeable with the Skinny only due to the slim handle and slim lock bar (perhaps the lock bar tension), was a squeak and vibration that could be felt when opening and closing the blade slowly.
A tiny drop of oil where the lock bar detent rides on the side of the blade immediately stopped this and it become slick again, but over time this does need a further drop of oil. Using a precision watch maker’s needle oiler allowed a very targeted application.

The final image here marks the end of an uninterrupted 38 years of me being a pescatarian. Friends and followers might know I have a chronic health condition, and with recent fresh inspiration to take a holistic new look of all aspects of my health and possible therapeutic changes I can make, I am taking a significant step by re-introducing meat into my diet.

This is no small change to make after 38 years, so required a ceremony of using a knife with a Magnacut blade, made by my friends at lionSTEEL, to prepare this first meal of meat. Meaningful to me at least, and the reason for including this here.


With the Skinny lionSTEEL have added nicely to their line up with a much slimmer locking folder that is very practical and usable for EDC tasks.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Pocket edge catches in lock bar spring cut out.
Lock bar tension seems very high.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

SOLID construction (one piece handle).
REF (removable flipper system).
Deep carry pocket clip.
MagnaCut blade.
Hardened steel lock bar insert with over travel stop.
Versatile drop-point blade shape.
IKBS bearings
Titanium with Carbon Fibre inlay.
Slim and easy to carry.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Gear Review: MetMo Pocket Driver

In this MetMo Pocket Driver review find out all about a super functional tool, and engineering masterpiece, revived and miniaturised by MetMo to create an EDC screwdriver unlike anything else. Based on one of the earliest forms of the ratchet screwdriver, originally patented by Conrad Baumann under the brand name Baumann-Weltrecord, in the 1920’s. Brought back to life, and to your pocket, by MetMo; using hardened materials and state of the art machining techniques to ensure the quality and reliability for which the original was known.

What’s in the box?:
Shown here are the Pocket Driver and the Pocket Pack accessory. Each of these are covered in detail in the following sections.


A good look round the Pocket Pack – Things to look out for here are:

One of the optional accessories for the Pocket Driver, the Pocket Pack holds the Pocket Driver, plus a number of adapters and bits, so you can put together the most useful tool set for your needs.
Included with the Pocket Pack are five bit holders/adapters from the 4mm precision bit adapter, going up to a 3/8″ square drive socket.
Made from leather with plenty of bit holder pockets, the bi-fold design uses brass post fittings to keep the pack neatly folded.
It also has a belt loop and D-loop hanger on the back so you can choose the best way to carry it.


A good look round the Pocket Driver – Things to look out for here are:

This is the full stainless steel version of the Pocket Driver. There are three variants from the lightest with aluminium body and handle, through to this version being the heaviest due to the stainless steel body and handle.

Immediately you are struck by the quality of finish with the folding handle, glorious in its pristineness. Though simple in concept, a folding handle ratchet screwdriver, as you look over the Pocket Driver the designed-in finesse is captivating.
A small lanyard hole next to the handle detent hole. The rounded pivot bolts. A pass-through hole in the handle so when folded bits can be fitted, and the Pocket driver used as a compact straight screwdriver. Then the almost steampunk visible ratchet pin, direction lever and those ratchet teeth themselves. The bit storage compartment cover, incorporated in a such a way that with the handle folded it can’t come loose, completes the tool.


Just how powerful is it?:
Included in MetMo’s specifications for the Pocket Driver is its maximum torque (turning force) of 17Nm. Though only a rough estimate, it is considered that a person can apply up to 10Nm torque when using a standard screwdriver (which also varies depending on the handle shape). The Pocket Driver has a fold out handle, and this is where that extra turning force comes from.

Not having an actual torque meter, I still wanted to attempt to measure how much force I could apply. As it happens, the torque wrench I have goes as low as 10ftlbs and adjusts in 1ftlb increments. So instead of taking a measurement, I could attempt to make the wrench ‘click’ on its preset torque and therefore show I had achieved that turning force. Though there isn’t a female-female 1/2″ square drive adapter, I have a ‘universal socket’ that would actually engage with the 1/2″ square drive of the torque wrench, meaning I was good to go with this test.
Working up from 10ftlbs, I found that after the success at 13ftlbs, I had maxed out and couldn’t ‘click’ 14 (all testing was with me holding both Pocket Driver and torque wrench, so I am sure I could have gone even higher if I was only holding the Pocket Driver).
This converts to a healthy 17.63Nm. Good job MetMo!

Also included in this gallery are some across-the-flats measurements taken with a vernier calliper to check the size of the hex bit holder socket and various bits/adapters.


What it is like to use?

What the Pocket Driver excels at are actually the heavier jobs rather than the smaller ones, despite its compact size. I say this for a few reasons in reference to the following gallery.
1/4″ standard bits (and in the first photo a PZ2 bit), which is a typical bit size likely to need a reasonable force to get tight, or undo. Using it with the handle folded, or deployed for much more force, makes good use of the ratchet.
Jumping up to the 3/8″ square drive that is included with the pocket pack, and realistically you will be using the fold-out handle to good effect.
Then we have the 4mm precision bit adapter, the type of bits used in this go down to 000 Phillips and T2 Torx, amongst others, where the side handle would guarantee stripped threads or heads. In fact even in-line, these sizes of screw won’t have enough resistance to turning to actually activate the ratchet action. If you do use the precision bit 4mm adapter you’ll be spinning the entire Pocket Driver like a fixed screwdriver; it’s no fault of the Pocket Driver, only a limitation of using it for fasteners that small.


For scale I wear XL size gloves, and although this is the smaller version of the Driver tool from MetMo, you can see it comfortably sits in the hand with the folding handle being a good size to provide plenty of leverage.


A pleasure to use, and working with any and all the bits you already have, here are just some of the jobs I’ve used the Pocket Driver for with 1/4″ bits, sockets, and even a hook driver bit. All that was asked of it was completed with ease.


One final point, being a tool that will appeal to engineering enthusiasts, MetMo offer an optional extra to allow your appreciation to reach new heights – a PDF of the engineering drawings. Showing all details hidden away inside the Pocket Driver, this is an excellent way to satisfy your curiosity of what makes it tick.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Storage for only two bits.
The ratchet direction lever can be fiddly to access with the handle folded.
Ratchet lever is easily knocked out of place when set to the fixed position.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Beautifully engineered.
High torque driving (17.63Nm).
Compatible with all 1/4″ hex bits.
Pleasing ‘action’ you won’t want to put down.
Choice of optional accessories.
Pocket Pack allows you to build a tool set around the Pocket Driver.
Seriously hard working tool – not just pocket jewellery.
Stainless steel construction for long life.

 
Discussing the Review:
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TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: TRC M-1SL

Join me in this detailed review of the stunning new TRC Knives M-1SL; a carefully considered evolution of the TRC Mille Cuori.

Adding to the “M” line from the Lithuanian manufacturer, the M-1SL is designed to meet the needs of a wide range of users involved in various outdoor activities. A sturdy tool that is well suited to bushcraft, camping, hunting and much more. It’s similarity to the Mille Cuori or M-1SLG, is because it is a development of that knife.

The spine has edges sharp enough to strike sparks from a ferro rod, but not sharp enough to cut you. Like all knives in the “M” line, the handle has deep jimping / grooves on the handle for excellent grip and handling. Made from premium BÖHLER M390 MICROCLEAN steel, the blade is highly corrosion resistant and really holds its edge.

(Review Videos now at the end of the review.)

What’s in the box?:
Setting the theme of ‘attention to detail’ from the first moment, TRC start as they mean to go on with the M-1SL’s presentation box. You already know this is going to be good.
As well as the sheathed knife, there is a specification card, metallic sticker and rubber patch.


A good look round the M-1SL’s sheath – Things to look out for here are:
As important as the knife it carries, the sheath manages an understated simplicity, yet is packed with features and functions that allow it to do its job brilliantly.
It is a rare thing to not be able to find an unfinished edge or corner. TRC Knives have delivered this, with every edge, corner, joint, bend, and fixing being smooth and refined. I have not found a single part of the sheath that could benefit from a tweak or shave; TRC have done all of this without missing anything.
If I had to be picky, I feel the drainage hole may not be as free flowing as if it ran downwards instead of sideways. However, where it is positioned is very neat and keeps the lower edge of the sheath streamlined.
The hollow rivets used to hold the two sheath halves together are completely smooth on both sides, so there is no wear to cord threaded through them. It comes with an elastic cord in place that is ideal if you want to secure the end of the sheath to your leg, as the elastic allows you to move freely.
Designed into the sheath is a fully adjustable knife retention, on both sides, not just one. This tension was set just right out of the box, but will wear in over time, and if ever needed, you can tighten it. If you prefer less of a grip on the knife you can also back it off to suit.
To swap to left-handed, you need only remove two bolts and pop the belt loop hanger on the other side of the sheath.


A good look round the M-1SL knife – Things to look out for here are:
Yes you might well recognise that distinctive blade shape from the TRC Mille Cuori, and in the M-1SL it is brought to you in a lighter-weight version. A drop point blade with bevelled swedge, plus thumb rest on the spine just forward of the handle, all combine to give this blade its identity.
Again the attention to detail doesn’t stop, the finishes are crisp without being sharp. The corners of the swedge bevels are just a little sharper than the corners of the thumb rest. Those slightly sharper corners on the swedge will scrape a fire steel very well yet are completely safe for your hands or gloves.
With the edge finishing in a sharpening choil next to the finger guard, not only does this complete the cutting edge, but provides you with the ‘fine work point’ (that I use this end of the cutting edge for).
The very front of the handles are angled to guide the knife into the sheath, this also gives good access to the cutting edge for all types of cutting task.
There is plenty of grip from the G-10 handle scales, that also combines with the jimping at the front and back of the handle to ensure a firm hold on the knife. Flared hollow rivets secure the handle scales and provide lanyard/lashing points.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from M390 steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?
I may have said ‘refined’ and ‘attention to detail’, or words to those effect, a few times in this review; this seems to be a feature TRC Knives are widely recognised for, and is clearly evident in the case of this M-1SL.
This doesn’t happen by accident, and is only as a result of hard work and caring about your products. When meeting Andrius Tricius (founder and head designer at TRC Knives) to talk about the M-1SL, his passion for the design and quality of finish came across immediately. He was listening closely to any and all comments I made about the knife, genuinely interested in understanding how his designs work for all users; clearly someone passionate about making the best possible knives.
Fitting into a general utility knife size category, the M-1SL is a super practical knife that is big enough for most tasks and small and light enough to be easy to carry – a no-brainer when it comes to picking out a daily use fixed blade.


With 4mm blade stock and a full tang the M-1SL is seriously robust so can take on tougher tasks as well. Chopping and batoning are no problem with the blade length just needing good technique and knowing when not to over-reach and risk the blade getting stuck.


For me, one thing I would prefer would be for the sheath to be smaller. With the typical two piece Kydex construction you end up with a slab of sheath which increases the overall carry size. The knife is a great EDC utility size (and super strong), but the bulk of this type of sheath does make me think twice on occasion. Could you still have such a functional sheath with retention tension adjustment and tying points with less bulk?
Perhaps a small detail, but worthy of further mention, the dedicated thumb rest on the spine; this allows you to comfortably put your thumb directly behind the cutting edge and apply maximum cutting force directly towards the cut. The power and control this cutting method provides is important, and though you can do this with all sorts of knives, the M-1SL has the thumb rest designed into the spine of the blade. Having this feature increases comfort and control exactly because there is a specifically shaped section on the spine.
Frequently, when living with a knife, I find something that is a bit ‘off’, a sharp corner, or something I want to tweak; so far with the M-1SL I’ve not found anything I want to tweak – I’d say this speaks volumes.
It also is certainly a difficult knife to put down, being pleasing to hold as well as use.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Slightly bulky sheath for the size of knife.
Nothing else – so this is a short list.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Incredible attention to detail.
Adjustable sheath retention tension.
Ideal size for general utility.
Capable of heavy duty tasks with 4mm blade stock.
M390 steel (proven reliability and performance).
Thumb rest designed into blade spine.
Outstanding level of finish with not a single flaw found.
Excellent grip without being abrasive to bare or gloved hands.
Ambidextrous sheath (when swapping the belt hanger to the other side).
Includes a sharpening choil.
Flared hollow handle rivets cannot come loose.
Full tang.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


 
Discussing the Review:
Something new – will it work? A Tactical Reviews Subreddit.
TacticalReviewsChat on Reddit
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Light Review: Nitecore EDC33 and EDC35

This is a detailed review of the Nitecore EDC33 and EDC35, two new Tactical EDC torches / flashlights featuring the NiteLab UHi 20 Max LED and UHi 40 MAX LED respectively. Each are powered by a built-in li-ion battery with USB-C charging port under a rotary cover.

The UHi MAX LEDs combine a small but high-intensity main core with 8 auxiliary cores arrayed together into a single LED, offering long-range coverage, extreme brightness and the ability to seamlessly switch between spot and floodlight.

The “Lumin Shield” mode blasts an stunning 4000/5000 lumen maximum output wall of light.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


What is in the box?:
With the EDC35 also having a belt holster, the unboxing is a bit different as the EDC35 arrives in the holster. The EDC33 doesn’t have a holster and comes in a slide out plastic tray.


A good look round the EDC35 belt holster – Things to look out for here are:
This is a semi-rigid type of holster, so when empty is the same size as when the light is inside it. There is a magnetically secured flip-top opening which hinges towards the belt loop.
A D-loop hanger, fixed belt loop and Velcro closing belt loop provide options for mounting/carry.


A good look round the EDC33 – Things to look out for here are:
The smaller of the two models on test here (based around an 18650), the EDC33 is a straight tube layout with generous size pocket clip. A set of four battery charge level indicator lights sit just beneath the rotating USB-C port cover. The EDC33 has a sliding toggle lockout switch and a two-stage forward-clicky tailcap switch. The EDC33 uses a NiteLab UHi 20 Max LED.


A good look round the EDC35 – Things to look out for here are:
The larger of the two models on test here (based around an 21700), the EDC35 has a head larger than the body to allow for a bigger reflector to accommodate the higher output, and also includes a generous size pocket clip. A set of four battery charge level indicator lights sit just beneath the rotating USB-C port cover. The EDC35 also has a sliding toggle lockout switch and a two-stage forward-clicky tailcap switch. The EDC35 uses a NiteLab UHi 40 Max LED.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

Exposures are not identical throughout the galleries – images are intended to show the beam shape and impression of what you see, rather than a brightness measurement.

EDC33 Beamshots:
Both for indoor and outdoor, the spot beam is shown first, then the ‘Lumin Shield’ beam.


EDC35 Beamshots:
Both for indoor and outdoor, the spot beam is shown first, then the ‘Lumin Shield’ beam.


EDC33 and EDC35 Beamshots:
This gallery uses all the previous images but groups them into comparative pairings for the EDC33 then EDC35 with each type of beam. As before this is the spot beam shown first followed by the ‘Lumin Shield’ beam for the indoor images and then the outdoor.


Batteries and output:

The EDC33 has a built-in 18650 cell and the EDC35 a built-in 21700 cell. Parasitic drain cannot be measured.

Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

This table compares measured and specified outputs for each mode.

Runtime traces for each model on ‘High’.

Also included in the gallery are the charging capacity measurements after recharging from the end of the runtime testing (show in Wh and Ah).


The EDC33 and EDC35 in use

These lights are BRIGHT! The Lumin Shield does exactly what it promises and blasts a wall of light. The power output is made all the more obvious by the heat generated in the head of each light, especially the smaller EDC33 where the head heats up very fast using Lumin Shield. The EDC35 has more mass and the heating is less immediate which does give you more working time with this mode before it becomes uncomfortable in a bare hand.

This leads me to suggest the main choice between the EDC33 and EDC35, with this being how much you want to use the higher or maximum outputs. The EDC35 has more mass to manage the heat produced, and larger battery capacity.

The next gallery shows the size of each in the hand (I take XL size gloves). In terms of weight, the EDC35 is 150% the weight of the EDC33, plus the holster and general bulk. This weight and size penalty gives you a longer runtime and ability to make use of the higher output for longer.


The choice of more comfortable use of maximum output, or ease of carry will then guide you to the right choice for you.

Though the EDC33 heats up fast on Lumin Shield, it does still give you a wall of light in a compact package, so as a backup this is extremely capable.

For my own use, I use lower outputs about 90% of the time, so this leads me to one of my main observations about using the EDC33 and EDC35, and that is it takes al lot of practice to reliably avoid triggering the Lumin Shield when in fact you really wanted the ultra-low output. Linger just a little too long on the tail switch, and instead of 5 lumen you get 4000 or 5000, or while trying to avoid that you fail to turn it on at all.

Clearly, the ‘Lumin Shield’ wall of light is the headline tactical defence function of these lights, and for that they are excellent. This mode is easily activated (almost too easily) and in the half-lockout is the mode still available. Take this as the primary function and you can then consider the lower outputs as a bonus.

To best manage the accidental activation of the Lumin Shield, I make sure to briefly close my eyes when trying to activate the daily modes, especially when I want the ultra low, and if I do accidentally unleash the 5000 lumens I don’t getting the full effect as I will have let go of the switch before I open my eyes.

Likewise for switching off when using lower modes, I don’t touch the tailcap, instead using the lockout switch to turn it off completely safely, as this will definitely not activate any other output mode.

Making the minor adjustments to how you operate the EDC33 and EDC35 allows the lower mode use to be smoother and not jar, and you still have the potential defensive wall of light ready to go if needed.

Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Easy to accidentally activate the Lumin Shield.
Lowest mode still not that low at 5 Lm.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Stunning ‘Wall of Light’ with Lumin Shield mode.
Secure grip pattern.
USB-C built-in charging port.
EDC35 has an extra large capacity 21700 cell.
EDC33 provides a smaller lighter option but with near 4000lm output.
Ultra-High output from the UHi 20 Max and UHi 40 MAX LEDs.
Safety sensor to detect obstructions.

Gear Review: Wiley X Trek Sunglasses

The Trek is a model which introduced yet another innovation from Wiley X, the removable side shield. This allows for a flatter and more traditional style of frame without sacrificing the Wiley X feature of meeting EN. 166 & ANSI Z87.1 safety standards.

In this review, the version of the Trek on test also features the Wiley X CAPTIVATE lens which I previously covered as a separate in-depth review – Wiley X Captivate Lenses (Models shown – Contend, Peak and Breach).

As someone who relies daily on the best quality sunglasses, but that also needs EN. 166 & ANSI Z87.1 safety standards, Wiley X has been my go-to brand and has never let me down.

Since first finding Wiley X many years ago, I’ve not looked back when it comes to eye protection, lens quality, fit and style.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:

This video also contains useful information on a slight difficulty with the removable side shields and explains how to prevent the issue.


A few more details:

What’s in the box?:
As these Trek glasses have the Captivate lens, they come in the Captivate version of the outer packaging. All the functional parts have been fitted into the case, with just a sticker accompanying the case as you unbox it.
Opening up the zip up case, and inside are the glasses inside a cloth bag, plus a much smaller cloth bag (containing one set of side shields), a neck strap, permanent side shields and some information leaflets.



A good look round the Trek – Things to look out for here are:
With the Trek glasses unpacked, this gallery takes you round views from all sides to show their flatter traditional profile. A closer view of the hinge and fittings for the side shields is included.



The removable Side Shields – Things to look out for here are:
First in this gallery are the two types of side shield with a scale to show their size. On the left is the ‘removable’ type and on the right the ‘permanent’ with separate fixing pin.
Before fitting the removable shield, it is shown next to the arm so you can see how it will fit in. Then the shield clipped into place.
Once the side shield is fitted, when folding the arms, it does interfere with the folding action and also sticks out a little. The knock-on is that it makes getting them into the case more difficult. You need to stretch the zip out to close the case, but you can still fit them in.


What it is like to use?

During testing I immediately found a feature of the side shield fitting that make the ‘removable’ shields, not removable. In fact it would be easier to remove the permanent side shields as there is a fixing pin you can pry out. However, there is a way to prevent this with a minor modification that is best done before you fit them. Wiley X are great at listening to feedback and are making a change to improve this for future versions.

The detailed video at the start of the review also includes information of a work-around you can use to make the removable side shields removable. Using this modification, I have them working as I would have expected, so watch the video to find out how to prevent it becoming an issue for you.

With my specific requirements, as well as the actual physical protection the side shields offer, I also wanted protection from light, so I have customised the side shields I use by blacking them out with spray paint.

Being careful to mask the parts that attach to the arms so the fit would not be affected, I then used a normal metal paint spray (I had a little left over from another job) to give them two coats. Spraying the inner surface resulted in a matt side towards me and the outside looking glossy. Fitting these customised shields to the Trek, and they blended in perfectly while providing the light blocking I need. I would not hesitate to do this again, as it has transformed them for me (unless Wiley X decide to make a black version of the side shield).


This gallery shows the bare Trek, and then similar views with the custom blackened side shields.


Being so used to the wrap around shape for sunglasses, the Trek model gives a really nice alternative styling with a more traditional look. The latest in eyewear technology with classic styling. A great combination.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

‘Removable’ side shields are permanent without modification.
Only clear side shields are currently available.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Classic styling.
No compromise on eye protection safety rating.
Excellent optical quality.
Captivate lens technology.
Super resilient frame material.
Protective bag for the side shields when they are not fitted.
Lightweight and comfortable.

 
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Gear Review: Halfbreed Blades MFE-01 Rhino Tool

This detailed review of the MFE-01 (Rhino Tool) from Halfbreed Blades takes a close look at a tool bursting with design intent. A specialist Method of Entry (MOE) / Breaching tool that was developed for the Special Operations Engineer Regiment (SOER) by Halfbreed Blades’ sister brand Hardcore Hardware Australia, and is a NATO stock numbered tool.

Multi-function design make the MFE-01 ideally suited for prying, digging, chopping, hammering, cutting, smashing rock, defeating locks, smashing windows, breaking and raking windscreens and as a climbing aid. The entire tool is overbuilt for outstanding longevity and is made from 8mm Bohler K110 (D2) tool steel and G10.

The MFE-01 is widely in use globally amongst Military and Law Enforcement groups, and is highly sought after by civilian users thanks to its highly functional design.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


A few more details:

What’s in the box?:
Considering the intent of the MFE-01 tool, and its likely deployment, the presentation box was a surprise, and a substantial one.
The box is shown with a Hardcore Hardware MILF folder and the one with my hand sticking into shot isn’t a mistake, but to give you some scale to appreciate the size of this box.
Opening it up and you have your fill of Halfbreed Blades contents; a rubber patch, catalogue, information sheet, certificate of authenticity and sticker.
Putting these aside we get to the high density foam liner precisely cut out for the sheathed tool. The optional belt loop sits next to the main tool with the extra fixing screw tucked underneath it.


A good look round the Rhino Tool’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
I’ve said it before and will say it again, the sheath or carrier for a tool is as important as the tool it carries, not least as if it fails, you have no tool at all.
The MFE-01’s sheath has a lot to look at. First in the gallery is a closer view of the belt holder. The Rhino tool is quite a weight to have on your belt, so I’ve not opted to adopt this myself, but it is a strong and serious option if you want to carry it on a belt. Of course you might also have a pack where this it the best way to attach it so it might not be used for a belt anyway. It is a ‘DOTS’ belt holder with belt width setting, lock, release button, and can be mounted horizontally or vertically.
The sheath is Kydex with metal hollow rivets holding the halves together. Once clicked into place the tool stays put, but for maximum security there is a retention strap with a pull-the-dot press stud.
For the MOLLE or belt loop fixings, the nuts are captive in the Kydex, so all the fixing holes are permanently threaded and ready to use.
The rigid DOTS MOLLE mounts are fast and easy to use. The mounting screws for the full MOLLE mount are hidden under the two MOLLE straps, so you need to partially disassemble the mount to access the fixing screws if you want to replace the mount with the belt loop.


A good look round the MFE-01 Rhino Tool – Things to look out for here are:
And here we have the MFE-01 Rhino tool. A slab of 8mm D2 steel with G10 slab handles – so take from that it is flat in overall form. When we get on to the in-use results, this is a factor in performance, but the main reason for the flatness is the requirement of being carried and not catching, digging in or otherwise impeding the user when they are not using it.
The prying end of the tool has a straight wedge with nail puller split. I specify a ‘straight’ wedge to indicate the pry tool does not have a levering bend, but is straight.
Just next to the pry tool is a lashing point through the shaft. The G10 handle slabs start just above this and are screwed onto the shaft. A slightly closer view shows the G10 layers.
As well as the round lashing hole, or lanyard hole, the handle has long slots that both reduce weight and can also have cord wrapped through then.
Moving up to the head, one of the main features is a versatile ratcheting claw; the jimping on the top allows you to work the claw into position step by step, giving a powerful ratcheting action.
Partnering the claw is a compact splitting head. This is not a axe for chopping wood as you might in bushcraft, but a powerful and focused striking point for splitting and smashing. The head is small for maximum striking power and the angles wide for edge stability and endurance.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
This section is from knife testing measurements, and was carried out to give some of the aspects which are also relevant to this tool’s effectiveness and balance. Bear this in mind when looking through the values which are intended to assess knives not tools like this.
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from D2 steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

Like the knife parameter measurements, this was included out of interest for the small factory cutting edge on the splitting head.


What is it like to use?

Let’s not forget, this is a military tool with a NATO Stock number, so when we look at this as a tool in itself, and for general use or prepping, the compromises of certain functions are absolutely intentional within the overall design.
This tool is intended to be carried into conflict, and, critically, to minimise how much it will impede the user’s movement when carrying it. This is a vital factor to keep in mind while assessing the tool in comparison to dedicated, larger and less easy to carry tools.

When considering the uses of a tool like this, it occurs to me that though this is termed a MOE or Method of Entry tool, this is also a Method of Escape/Exit tool. You might want to breach a door to enter or exit.

Basic ergonomics are of an easy to handle mid-weight hand tool. The G10 handle scales bulk up the 8mm steel to make for a comfortable hold. I’m only showing three of many possible grip positions here. In use you will grip the entire head as a handle when prying.
The action of sheathing and unsheathing is of rotating the head out of the sheath with the claw being the pivot point. Re-sheathing starts with hooking the claw into its socket and rotating the head into place.


Starting off this next gallery are a few prying examples. This is actually the first completely straight prying tool I have ever used (of a good size, not counting pocket prybars). All dedicated prying tools have a bend or curve to allow levering and room for the handle to move and the pry head to lift. With a straight pry tool you typically need to use a different technique. Some prying tasks may have plenty of room to move, for example prying a crate open, but others, like lifting nails usually end up with running out of room to lever them out. A simple technique to eliminate this issue is to place a spacer piece under the pry tool and use this to lever over and provide the same lift as a bent pry tool. If you need more lift, add another spacer.
The claw tool has so many potential uses that I haven’t been able to try, from piercing, smashing, lifting, raking. My testing was of controlled lifting and applying force where I could not grip with my hand. Unfortunately the day at the wreckers yard didn’t work out, so I can’t report on vehicle tests.
Remembering the splitting head (not axe head) has a wide geometry for durability, you need to wield it for a smashing/splitting action more than chopping. It made quick work of dry pallet wood, a good indication of providing you with effective destructive power.


Assessing and testing this tool in more of a prepper, survival, and enthusiast’s point of view does slightly conflict with some of the military design requirements. The design, and its capabilities, are all specifically designed to meet a military brief. In this, the design of the MFE-01 meets the requirements, and a compromise in one aspect is due to a more important requirement.

Don’t compare the Rhino tool to a normal crowbar, axe, hammer or any other dedicated tool, instead it is a versatile and tough multi-tool for SHTF scenarios that will let you break things you otherwise couldn’t, while keeping it as easy and safe to carry as possible.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

The exposed pry prongs can dig into other kit.
Removal of the MOLLE hanger requires partial disassembly due to a concealed screw.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Super tough design – ‘Rhino’ is a very appropriate name.
G10 handle has stood up to being levered against for prying.
Secure grip (despite absolutely straight handle).
Teflon coating holding up very well, even against pulling nails.
Very stable carry platform.
Secure sheath with positive action.
Failure of the G10 would not prevent the tool being used.
Solid, single piece, full tang construction.

 
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