Light Review: Fenix E35R and E03R V2.0

Fenix are updating and upgrading two excellent EDC lights. The E03R V2.0 and E35R build on their predecessors and raise them to a higher level. Join me in this review of the Fenix E03R v2.0 and E35R to see how they perform and what improvements have been made.

Review Videos

For the E03R V2.0 first a short format sixty second review:


The short format sixty second review of the E35R:


Onto a full video review covering many more details of both:


What is in the box?:

A brief look over the contents of the box for each of these lights. Starting with the E03R v2.0 in its plastic clamshell inner. To remove the E03R V2.0 from the package needs the plastic tie that comes fitted through the lanyard hole. Without this you can’t get a grip on it ton pull it out of the very tight fitting packaging. It comes with a USB-C charging cable, small split keyring and instructions.
The E35R slides out of the outer cardboard box in a plastic tray. This comes with the battery already fitted, a USB-C charging cable, wrist strap and spare o-ring, plus the instructions.


A good look round the E03R V2.0 – Things to look out for here are:
Before anything else, here is a side-by-side of the original E03R and the new V2.0. You can immediately see the increase in size that allows for the uprated output and runtime.

At the front is the twin TIR optic for the main white beam (with central optic for the Red beam). On the side is a rubber port cover for the USB-C charging port. The power switch has an outer illuminated ring. The switch’s centre also has an indicator light for the state of charge. Details of the split-ring keyring are shown.


Taking a more detailed look at the E35R:

The side by side comparison to the original E35 is included in the video earlier in the review. Most noticeable is the addition of the USB-C charging port. Visually, apart from that, the E35R is almost identical to the E35.

In case you think it is faulty out of the box, Fenix has included a label to remind you to remove the in-transit insulator which protects the E35R from discharging in storage. For the E35R, it is the head rather than tail that unscrews to access the battery compartment. The contacts in the head include physical reverse polarity protection. In the tail is a single strong coil spring to keep the 21700 5000mAh cell in place. The threads are near-square in profile. There is a bronze detail ring round the TIR optic to match the colour of the power switch. To indicate the battery level the centre of the power switch lights up either solid, or a flashing. A steel pocket clip is included. One other addition in the update is the E35R now having a magnetic tail.


The beam

Please be careful not to judge tint based on images you see on a computer screen. Unless properly calibrated, the screen itself will change the perceived tint.

The indoor beamshot is intended to give an idea of the beam shape/quality rather than tint. All beamshots are taken using daylight white balance. The woodwork (stairs and skirting) are painted Farrow & Ball “Off-White”, and the walls are a light sandy colour called ‘String’ again by Farrow & Ball. I don’t actually have a ‘white wall’ in the house to use for this, and my wife won’t have one!

This gallery starts with the E03R V2.0 indoors, white and red beams. The red beam exposure is intentionally longer to show the shape of the beam, not the relative brightness to the white. However, for the outdoor beamshots, the exposure for white and red is similar, and is intended to show the red beam range is, of course, very limited.
Then the last two beamshots are the E35R, showing the very strong performance.


Batteries and output:

The E03R V2.0 has a built in li-po 400mAh cell, and the E35R runs on a removable 21700 5000mAh cell.

These images are the charging traces for the E03R V2.0 and E35R.


Please note, all quoted lumen figures are from a DIY integrating sphere, and according to ANSI standards. Although every effort is made to give as accurate a result as possible, they should be taken as an estimate only. The results can be used to compare outputs in this review and others I have published.

When carrying out runtime tests, I always use a cooling fan to at least represent some of the cooling provided by your hands, and also the lower temperatures outside. Not using any cooling would be unrealistic.
In this run of the E35R, there were actually three power cuts that stopped the cooling fan running (the logging was running on battery), and this corresponds with drops in the output due to the thermal regulation ramping down the output.
The E03R V2.0 output is very predictable and stable and needs no further comment.
In the gallery, the second image has the times of the power cuts marked so you can see the corresponding drops in the E35R’s output.
Showing just the start of the output trace, the final image in the gallery shows the thermal regulation controlling the output.


The E03R V2.0 and E35R in use

Since Fenix first previewed the E03R V2.0, the debate has been based largely around if they have made it too big for a key chain light. Ultimately only you can make that decision, but I’ve found it a very good size. Being slightly larger it is more readily to hand (easier to get a grip on), and the added functions raise its usefulness even more.

I particularly like the ‘breathe’ modes of the E03R V2.0. A soft locator light which give a confidence that when in an unfamiliar place you can activate the breathe mode and then always be able to find where the E03R V2.0 is.

For a light that is going to be knocking around, and in and out of pockets, the timing of the power switch activation seems spot on. I’ve not had any accidental activations, and not really bothered with the lockout. It is good to have the option, but so far no warm pockets.

Between these two lights, the interface is effectively the same, so it is very natural to pair them. Of course the E35R is a single white light LED that goes up to an amazing 3000lm output.

At that maximum output the E35R does get hot quickly, and as shown in the runtime graphs, cannot be maintained – but take a moment and look at those graphs again. The E35R, with good cooling, is running at over 1500lm for an hour. This is a solid performance for a EDC pocket light.

I would prefer one lower mode on the E35R, but for most people, the available modes are going to work well.

With the power button being relatively low profile, it can be a bit hit and miss to find, especially with gloves. To get around this, what I do is to line up the pocket clip so it is opposite the power switch. You then use the pocket clip to index your grip and find the power switch without looking.

The original E35 was a good powerful compact light. It was just slightly smaller and a little lighter, and just enough light wrapped around a 21700 cell. Fenix have now managed to also squeeze in the on-board charging and magnetic base which are worthy updates and make the E35R a complete package.

So far, on testing the magnetic base of the E35R, I’ve found issues with slippage if put onto a smooth vertical surface. The magnet holds the light, but the finish on the tail is so smooth, if the surface is also smooth the E35R usually slips and slides down. If the magnet is holding a horizontal surface it is very secure. It is less about the magnet’s strength and more about there being enough grip between the E35R and the surface to not slide downwards.

‘New and improved’ is often a false claim, but for this pair of EDC lights from Fenix, it really is.


Review Summary
The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

E35R – Could do with a lower mode for household use.
E35R – Tends to slide down smooth vertical magnetic surfaces.
Nothing else for either.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

E35R – 3000lm maximum output.
E35R – built around the 21700 cell.
E35R – simple and effective user interface.
E35R – magnetic tail.
E35R – built-in USB-C charging.
E03R V2.0 – ‘breath’ locator beacon mode.
E03R V2.0 – white and red output (and green in breath).
E03R V2.0 – built-in USB-C charging.
E03R V2.0 – great combination of size, weight, power and runtime.

Mega Review: Silky Outback – Nata, BigBoy and PocketBoy

Silky’s New Outback range has recently added the Nata Outback edition to compliment the BigBoy, GomBoy and PocketBoy Saws. All of the Outback range feature a black blade coating and are built for outdoor and survival use. The Outback saws have thick and rigid saw blades making them 100% outdoor proof. For the Outback range Silky applied a black coating of a unique nickel and tin blend to the entire blade, including the teeth. This provides a long blade life and an incredible cutting performance.
This Silky Outback review features the latest addition, the Nata Outback Edition, along with the largest and smallest saws in the range, the BigBoy and PocketBoy.
If you are in the UK you can find these at Woodlore (no affiliation, just where to find them – search for ‘Silky’ once there).

Review Videos

A trio of videos you can come back to, or find directly on the Tactical Reviews YouTube Channel.

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details of the BigBoy Saw:


The last of this trio is a full video review covering many more details of the Nata:


All the details:

Unpacking the BigBoy Saw:


A good look round the BigBoy – Things to look out for here are:

On the Outback edition, the pivot/lock is painted black and has an adjustable pivot screw. You can see the two blade stop groove positions in the blade. Due to its curved shape, the teeth of the BigBoy are not fully enclosed when folded, but you can keep it in the included nylon carrying case. The blade can be locked in two positions (more on that in ‘The Big Cut’).
The teeth have four cutting angles to leave a smooth surface after cutting.
The BigBoy is the largest folding saw in the Outback range, and is also shown here next to a Bahco Laplander for scale.


Unpacking the PocketBoy Saw:
Both saws include a case, the PocketBoy has a clear plastic case.


A good look round the PocketBoy – Things to look out for here are:
Exactly as with the BigBoy, the PocketBoy pivot/lock is painted black and has an adjustable pivot screw. You can see the two blade stop groove positions in the blade. The smaller saw has finer teeth which is shown in a side by side comparison. The blade can be locked in two positions and the teeth of the PocketBoy are fully enclosed when folded.
The PocketBoy is the smallest folding saw in the Outback range, and is also shown here next to BigBoy for scale.


The Nata’s sheath:
Packed with practicality, yet simple in design, the Nata’s sheath has a dangler belt loop with retaining strap that can be removed from the sheath. The thinking behind this is not to use the Nata’s sheath without the belt loop and retaining strap, but instead that while you are carrying it belt mounted, if you then want to sit or get into a vehicle, you can remove the sheath from the belt hanger without taking off your belt.
The sheath itself is mainly a gravity sheath that you drop the Nata into and lift out as needed. It has two metal edges that provide rigidity and prevent the Nata cutting through it over time. Large drainage holes ensure the sheath stays clear of rain water and can easily be flushed clean if it accumulates dirt/dust.


A good look round the Nata – Things to look out for here are:
Note: this is a used demo blade so will be showing signs of use.
A very utilitarian blocky blade shape gives you the weight and strength needed for effective chopping. This Outback edition is the first Nata to feature a new black oxide coating.
The rubber handle is removable, not as I originally thought, to replace the handle, but in fact to allow you to replace the blade and keep the handle, as Silky sell a replacement blade for the Nata.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from Silky’s Japanese Carbon steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

In the following gallery are close up images of the BigBoy and Pocket saw teeth (they are used so show some saw dust), and the Nata in a section or unused edge and at the point of maximum wear from the demo use. The worn section shows the black coating is gone and the edge has damage.


What is it like to use? – Part 1 – The Big Cut
The question is, how large a log can you cut with the Silky Outback BiGBOY saw? Silky suggest the biggest size of log you should cut is half the length of the saw blade. Pffff! I’m not listening – La La La La La…….

So the Silky Outback BigBoy Big Cut Challenge was born.

The gallery in this Big Cut challenge shows the result of two visits to the log. The first visit was about 1 hour long, and the second 2.5 hours, and finally a third visit with a crowbar.

The log was not ‘green’ having been cut an unknown time before I got access to it, so the end I was cutting had dried. This caused significantly more effort. The Silky saws are so effective on green wood, but less so on dried timber.

During this cut, the two blade positions proved their worth and made angling the cut much easier, so, yes, you will be glad of them.

At the end of the first hour of cutting, progress felt good and I’d got a channel cut round the entire log but had to stop.

Visit two was a couple of weeks later, so the wood was drier and the cut had exposed the inner wood allowing it to dry more. After an hour and a half, progress slowed to a point I decided to stop as I’d reached an impasse.
Having checked the depth of cut all round I have an estimate of what is left uncut (the green circle).

I had really hit the limit of sensible progress for a few reasons:

The timber was not green wood, so much harder to cut.
Access was limited especially on the left side preventing free movement of the saw.
The depth of cut meant the sawdust did not clear, instead clogging the cut.
At the extreme depth of cut, only a few saw teeth were cutting. This was the biggest factor.

Wanting to confirm the actual cut I decided to use a crowbar to break away all the wood that was cut to leave only the last uncut part.

The conclusion of this test is that with enough time and full, clear, access to the log I think it would just be possible – if you really had to. I would definitely not choose to do this again!


What is it like to use? – Part 2 – all the rest
So back to the bread and butter use of the Silky Outback tools. Woodland, green wood, and camp tasks.

Using a long heavy blade for chopping instead of an axe head gives you quite a few advantages. You do not need to be so accurate with each strike, you can use the Nata for brush clearance as well (which you could not with an axe), and you can also use it for batoning and splitting large logs safely. A very effective tool.

It isn’t new as the Nata has been in Silky’s range for some time, but this version with coated blade and using the double bevelled edge version for the hard-use Outback range takes it to another level. (there is a chisel grind version of the standard Nata)

I’ve pushed the Silky saws to their limits for the size of cut you can make, but when you work within the limits Silky recommend you have an easy time. Green wood is devoured by the BigBoy, and for the smaller tree limbs the PocketBoy is very effective. Just keep to that rule of the diameter of log being half the length of the blade (not nearly twice like in the Big Cut). All of these types of saw cut on the pull stroke, which prevents blade bends, and gives excellent control of the cut.

For logs of the correct size, sawing is faster than more efficient and cleaner than chopping, so if you can carry a saw and chopping tool you make life a lot easier. Saw the logs, then split them with the Nata.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

(very little to say here)
BigBoy – the saw teeth are still partly exposed when folded.
Nata – the blade rattles in the sheath and can be a bit noisy when carrying.
(yup, really not much to say)

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

BigBoy Outback Edition – devastatingly effective saw teeth.
BigBoy Outback Edition – two locked blade positions.
BigBoy Outback Edition – Comfortable and grippy wood/plastic composite handle.
BigBoy Outback Edition – zip up case included.
BigBoy Outback Edition – adjustable pivot tension.
BigBoy Outback Edition – black coated blade.
PocketBoy Outback Edition – effective saw teeth.
PocketBoy Outback Edition – two locked blade positions.
PocketBoy Outback Edition – Comfortable and grippy wood/plastic composite handle.
PocketBoy Outback Edition – plastic case included.
PocketBoy Outback Edition – adjustable pivot tension.
PocketBoy Outback Edition – black coated blade.
Nata Outback Edition – black oxide protective blade coating.
Nata Outback Edition – sheath can be unclipped from belt hanger.
Nata Outback Edition – long heavy chopping blade.
Nata Outback Edition – removable cushioning rubber handle.
Nata Outback Edition – suitable for chopping and brush clearing use.
Nata Outback Edition – Stable and strong double bevelled edge version.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: ANV M311 Spelter

Join me in this detailed review of the ANV – ACTA NON VERBA Knives M311 Spelter.

The M311 Spelter is a distinctive survival/tactical knife with a large number of options, so you can virtually create your own customised version of it. You can select from two blade shapes, two blade steels, four blade finishes, along with three handle and sheath colours.

In this feature review we are looking at the blade shape with choil, in Elmax steel, Topographic blade coating pattern, with Olive handle and sheath.

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


A few more details:

What’s in the box?:

Amazingly, this box has survived being unravelled to make it flat and a journey via checked luggage, then reassembled.

The knife comes wrapped in a foam sheet with a QC card.


A good look round the Sheath – Things to look out for here are:

For the sheath I’ve split it into two parts, with this one focusing on the main body of the sheath. It is a Kydex sheath held together with hollow eye rivets. This is the Olive colour sheath, but several other colours are available.
Knife retention is courtesy of the shaped lips at the mouth of the sheath that grip the front of the handle. There is sloped thumb ramp to provide leverage to push the sheath off the knife.
The hollow rivets mean you can fit a variety of straps, clips, cords, or other carrying systems, and also allows you to swap them over for left handed use.


A good look round the MOLLE / Belt fitting – Things to look out for here are:

Although the sheath design allows you to fit any other system you want to, the M311 Spelter sheath comes with 75mm 2M MOLLE systems straps bolted onto the sheath. The end of the strap fits through a loop and over a small tab to hold it in place.


A good look round the M311 knife and handle – Things to look out for here are:

And onto the superb M311 Spelter Knife. Remember there are two steels, and several blade finishes to choose from, so if you prefer a plain blade finish, you can have that. I rather like the Topo and its ‘0311’ elevation included in the contours. A really elegant swedge gives the effect of a harpoon style blade without actually being one, and there is a generous thumb rest forward of the jimping so you can get thumb pressure right over the cutting edge.
The handle is a mastery of 3D sculpting, and the milling lines in the micarta give excellent grip, adding to the already very stable hold you get from the palm swell, butt hook and finger groove. The handle is held on with 2 Allen head bolts.
This blade it the ‘with choil’ version.
The butt of the grip has a striking point and there is also jimping for a reverse grip hold.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?

From the moment I picked it up, the M311 Spelter has become a firm favourite. I’m in love with the harpoonesque swedge on an eminently practically sized blade.
The two thumb positions, the first on the jimping at the front of the handle, and then onto the groove positioned behind the cutting edge let you find the ideal grip and pressure for whatever cutting job comes up.
I’m always a little cautious about using a choked-up grip with a finger into the choil, but it takes fine work to another level if you can do this safely.
Stability of grip is fantastic. The gallery below takes you through only some of the grip positions you could use, a standard grip with and without the thumb forward onto the jimping, thumb into the groove on the spine, choked up and a reverse grip.


It’s like your hand can dance all over the handle and find a comfortable and stable grip almost any which way. The swells and grip hook let you take a firm hold in so many ways.

A slight surprise for me, considering I take XL size gloves, was that the handle is almost on the large side. It certainly has plenty of room for use with thick gloves, and I’d take this over a handle being too small.

Even with quite a bit of use, the Kydex retention is still on the stiff side. For anyone intending to mount it handle down on a chest plate or other upside-down position, this is critical. I certainly would have no doubt the knife will not come out under its own weight even with a very active user, and will still need a firm thumb lever to unsheathe it.

The 2M MOLLE straps are not my favourite fitting, but even I do have to admit they are a very versatile system for a standard fitment from ANV. They are a bit of a jack of all trades as they can be belt mounted or MOLLE mounted, and will fit any belt you can find, while the hollow rivets then also allow use of cord to stabilise the sheath even more. And this is before you move onto possibly swapping them for some other mounting system which the sheath easily allows for. It is sold in the tactical range and this mount configuration definitely works well for the most common type of carry.

With no ‘hanger’, if belt mounted the M311 sits high on your body, but I do quite like this. It’s also easy enough to fashion your own belt hanger and wear it lower if you want to.

ANV’s M311 Spelter keeps asking to be used. That beautifully shaped grip makes it easy to find a hand position that suits the cutting job, whatever it is. Comfort is also excellent for extended hard use.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Blade retention on the verge of being too strong.
Sheath is very wide, limiting some attachment positions.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Superb balance of blade shape and size.
Sculpted handle gives excellent grip.
Key areas with jimping for secure forward and reverse grips.
Elmax steel (also available in Sleipner).
Flexible 2M MOLLE mounting system.
Large drainage hole for easy sheath maintenance.
Super comfortable handle for hard work.
Four blade finishes.
Three handle Colours.
Three sheath colours.
Sheath allows for many different mounting systems to be fitted.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Gear Review: Nitecore EMR10 EMR20

In this review of the Nitecore EMR10 and EMR20 portable mosquito repellers / powerbanks, we take a detailed look at all aspects of their performance and function.

The EMR10 and EMR20 are two new devices from Nitecore combining portable insect repellers with a powerbank. The EMR10 has ultrasonic repellent, a repellent mat heater and a 10,000mAh powerbank, and the EMR20 is slightly smaller and simpler but without the ultrasonic function.

If, like me, you protect everyone else from mosquito bites, by being the one the mosquitoes make a beeline for, then you may be as pleased as I am to find the new Nitecore EMR10 and EMR20 portable insect repeller devices.

The thermal runtime graphs for these units are a first for Tactical reviews with the final graphs having 3500 manually entered data points!

Making his first appearance below is “Stoppo”, Tactical Reviews’ “don’t do that” guardian. Mosquitos beware, armed with the EMR units Stoppo says NO!

Review Videos

Starting with a short format sixty second review:


Onto a full video review covering many more details:


Looking closer at the EMR devices:

Both units boxed and unboxed, before we go into the finer detail.

What’s in the box – EMR10:
Along with the main unit are a charging cable, instructions and 10 of the double-size repellent mats.


A good look round the EMR10 – Things to look out for here are:
Of the two, it is a bigger and more feature packed unit, with the EMR10 there is a lot to see.
The OLED screen has a protector you need to take off. Notice the slider on the bottom, we’ll come back to that. Molded into the rubber section on the sides are some grip grooves. On each side are small ultrasonic speakers that emit a dual frequency repelling sound. On the back is a metal wire clip that is designed to work with MOLLE / PALS, pocket or belt use. The top has a USB-C port for charging and for use as a powerbank.
The repellent mat heater/holder has a retaining spring wire to keep the mat from falling out.
Then onto the EMR10’s biggest trick, the removable twin 21700 cells.


What’s in the box – EMR20:
Along with the main unit are a charging cable, instructions and 10 of the double-size repellent mats.


A good look round the EMR20 – Things to look out for here are:
The EMR20 is a smaller and simpler unit which has no grip texturing or screen. Instead it has a set of four indicator lights plus the power switch has dual coloured illumination. On the back is the same metal wire clip used by the EMR10 that is designed to work with MOLLE / PALS, pocket or belt use. The top has a USB-C port for charging and for use as a powerbank.
The repellent mat heater/holder has a retaining wire spring to keep the mat from falling out.


Batteries and output:

The following section is all the technical testing for both units. This includes temperature measurements for the repellent mat heater, plus power curves for charging each unit, and the powerbank output for each unit.

First up is the repellent mat heater output for both units. The test was carried out on the highest, ‘outdoor’ mode which takes the heater to the highest temperature.
The temperature measurement was taken by inserting a K-type thermocouple under a used mat to keep it pressed tightly against the heating plate and insulate it. Another ambient temperature thermometer was also recorded, making it three temperature measurements being monitored.
For this dual run I had to set a camera on time lapse photo to take a photo measurement every 30s. Unfortunately I had no computer logging so had to manually type each measurement – over 3500 of them!
The resulting graphs are very interesting. They show the temperature varying between an upper and lower limit. The EMR10 keeps the lower limit higher than the EMR20 and as a result uses more power and has a lower runtime. The graphs do speak for themselves, so take a bit of time to read these.
Also included are some thermal images of the EMRs during this test taken with a FLIR thermal camera.


The next gallery shows the USB input and output graphs for each unit. Charging graphs are from empty to full. The powerbank graphs show each unit charging a Oneplus phone on fast charging (9V output); they are not the full capacity of the powerbank, just to show the output characteristics which are excellent.

What it is like to use?

I want to start this section by introducing my very helpful assistant, Klaus. One of the things I was worried about with the EMR10’s ultrasonic repeller is if it would distress animals. Dog whistles are also ultrasonic (above human hearing range) so I needed to use the EMR10 around a dog to see what would happen. Not once did Klaus seem to react at all to the EMR10 negatively, or even pay any attention to it, so assuming he could hear it, it didn’t bother him. A good start.

Nitecore make and supply double size repellent mats. This is clearly the easiest way to load up the EMR10 and EMR20. It is possible to use two standard size mats instead giving you more flexibility.

You can see in one of the photos how the mats go almost white when the active ingredient has evaporated. The photo shows areas on the mat around the heat shielding that have gone white on this part used mat.

An observation relating to the EMR10’s display and capacity indication is that I’ve found the percentage show to not be accurate at all times. You can use the EMR10 while it is on charge. While doing this, the battery percentage always stays lower than it really is. You can see the input power as well on the screen and as this gets closer to being fully charged, the input watts gets lower and lower (the example here shows 10W input) but the percentage charge indicates it is much lower than it really is. Once you turn off the EMR10 it recovers and corrects itself. Just something to be aware of and I suspect relates to the charge percentage being based on the cell voltage which will of course be lower while the repeller is turned on.

I’ve been using both the EMR10 and EMR20 in a variety of indoor and outdoor locations carried separately or clipped onto a bag.


So how did they do?

Firstly, with me being apparently the finest of dining for mosquitos, if they are determined enough, you will still get bitten; I did. I’ve been bitten when covered in deet, so using repellent mats outdoors might deter some, but is not absolute protection.

It is not at all possible to properly measure the effectiveness of these repellers as the number of bites will also depend on the time, temperature, and hatching of the insects, so this can be impressions only.

Assuming the mats themselves are effective, I have been aware of the aroma coming from the mats. Considering this is outdoors, that is reassuring. Effectiveness is so subject to wind direction and strength, so you might not actually have any cover of the repellent and insects might reach you undeterred. Where the EMR10 has another string to its bow, is the ultrasonic repeller. The ultrasonic won’t be affected by wind, but having no active ingredient, it again relies on the mosquitos not being determined to bite.

NOTES on the repellent mats:

There are a few different active ingredients used in repellent mats, and these are also frequently in combination with Piperonyl butoxide. Prallethrin, Transfluthrin and D-Allethrin are the most common with Nitecore’s MRM10 Mosquito Repellent Mats using Prallethrin.

Piperonyl butoxide (PBO) is a man-made pesticide synergist. By itself, PBO is not designed to harm insects. Instead, it works with bug killers to increase their effectiveness. PBO is often combined with natural pyrethrins or man-made pyrethroids. It has been used in pesticide products since the 1950s, when it was first registered in the United States.

A repellent mat needs to be changed when it turns white. You can use Repellent Mats for a shorter period of time than the manufacture specifies and they will still be just as effective. However, if there is going to be several days between usages, you might want to keep the mats in their foil packaging or in a sealed plastic bag between uses.

Having used them a lot, the one feature I wish they had was an auto-off timer. Once you turn on either one of them, they will run until the battery is flat or you turn it off. I found that treating at critical times was more important than all night and I would have preferred to be able to fall sleep with the repeller turning itself off after an hour or two and leaving power to run on another night. On this subject, the EMR10 allows you to either only run on one of the 21700 cells, or carry spares.

The clip has a one-way design where it fits on much more easily than taking it off. Good for not losing it, but on occasion puts up a bit of a fight to take it off, especially from MOLLE more than from a pocket.

Initially I was dubious about how much I would want to use the powerbank function when I want the power for insect repelling. But, after travelling by air a few times with these devices, the use comes from having a powerbank to use on the plane, and once getting to where I really need the repeller, then recharge and only use it for the repellent. So like this, the two functions allow for infrequent use as a powerbank while travelling, but then change to only using them as repellers when not travelling.

While using the EMR10 and EMR20 I have been bitten. I am convinced I would have been bitten more without them. The most difficult aspect of their use is the protection zone they can provide. If you are walking, then the repellent vapour is trailing after you and not surrounding you. If there is wind, the repellent is blown away. In instances where you are not moving and there is wind, you need to put the device a few meters away from you and up-wind.

Some of the better results are for smaller or enclosed areas. Treating a tent, or a hammock net are idea uses. While on holiday, using it in a hotel or guest room works well.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

I’m trying something slightly different and starting with what doesn’t work so well, so I can finish on a more positive note.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

No auto-off timer.
Clip can be awkward to remove.
USB-C port cover needs a firm hand to get it out of the way.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Portable outdoor insect repellent device!!!
Double size repellent mats (and able to take two standard mats).
Powerbank function with rapid charge 9V output supported.
Up to 18W input power when charging.
Indoor and Outdoor modes.
Secure one-way clip.
EMR10 has replaceable cells.
EMR10 can run on one 21700 cell.
EMR10 OLED display is informative.
EMR10 also has an ultrasonic repellent.
Removable secondary heat shield.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
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Knife Review: Extrema Ratio K-TALON

Extrema Ratio’s K-TALON is an elegant, super-slim karambit knife with a fixed, hooked hawksbill blade and grip-ring. K-TALON comes in two versions of blade finish, Dark Stone and Stone Washed, both shown in this review and the video.

This review of the Extrema Ratio K-TALON includes an in depth video with overview and detailed measurements, plus image galleries and more..

Detailed Video Examination

This video takes a detailed look at the K-TALON and also includes some tips on fitting an Ulti-Clip to the K-TALON’s Kydex sheath.


A few more details:

What’s in the box?:


A good look round the K-TALON sheath – Things to look out for here are:
Included in this review are the two optional clips; the Ulti-clip slim and the belt clip. The K-TALON’s sheath is slim, made from Kydex and has a drainage hole. The blade retention can be adjusted via the two fastenings at the mouth of the sheath. Out of the box, the sheath has a paracord neck lanyard. The Kydex is held together with hollow rivets and along with slots provides a variety of mounting/fixing options.


A good look round the K-TALON – Things to look out for here are:
K-TALON has a very slim profile and the grip-ring is generous enough to allow for gloved hands. This gallery shows the dark stone blade finish close up. The elegant curved blade has a fuller and the finish is beautifully precise.
Despite the very slim handle, the distinctive Extrema Ratio grip pattern is clearly evident – no mistaking this is an Extrema Ratio.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from N690 steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.


What is it like to use?
A hook-bladed karambit is typically associated with tactical uses and less so for general EDC. Actually in its more typical tactical usage scenario you would actually not use it for every day cutting; the condition of the edge needs to stay at its absolute sharpest for an instance when it is needed in an emergency.
I am not looking at it from this tactical point of view, but instead as an EDC blade. The hooked, hawksbill blade was initially developed as a utility knife and farming tool in Malaysia and the Philippines during the 11th century, so is very functional for certain types of cut.

As a utility / EDC knife, a hawksbill blade is very well suited to cutting cords, stripping wires, pruning plants, and cutting carpet or other sheet materials.

Though the profile is so slim, the K-TALON handles very well.


Although in this gallery I have only shown grips that use the grip ring, you can ignore the ring and just hold the handle without putting a finger though (see below). This gives even more positions to hold the K-TALON.

The karambit hawksbill curved blade works really well for some but not all tasks. Where it excels is in those cutting jobs where the curve of the blade can capture and control the cut. Cuts where a straight blade might slip off, or struggle to get purchase, the hawksbill blade grabs hold. In these instances the cut becomes much more controlled. In terms of EDC, as long as it is partnered with a straighter blade, the K-TALON makes for an exceptional addition in cutting power.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

It is too big to be a ‘neck knife’.
No belt clip supplied as standard.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Excellent handling.
Grip ring is large enough for use with gloves.
Choice of two blade finishes.
Easy to carry due to the very low profile.
Adjustable tension sheath retention.
Easy to fit and adjust belt/clip attachments.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Fällkniven PXL Folding Knife

In this review of the Fällkniven PXL (‘bm’ version – black micarta) folding knife, we take a very close look all over this beautiful liner lock.
Direct from the Fällkniven designer himself, Peter Hjortberger, is the statement that the PXL is the largest folder he will ever design; if you need a larger knife, then a fixed blade becomes the better choice. Fällkniven knives are practical tools, designed to work hard and efficiently, with the design intent firmly on performance and practicality.
The PXL now has an Elmax steel blade and comes with either black micarta or Elforyn (an imitation Ivory) handle scales.

Video Overview

This video is a detailed look at the Fällkniven PXLbm, from handling to technical measurements.


What’s in the box?:
The presentation box comes in a white card sleeve (making it almost disappear in the Tactical Reviews all white studio). Slipping the sleeve off to reveal the black box inside with the knife nestled in a foam liner.


A good look round the PXLbm – Things to look out for here are:
This gallery is intended to show lots of the design details up close, including how the knife is put together and how it functions.
The black micarta handles (with inset badge) are polished and have a precise fit to the liners and bolster. You can see the single position pocket clip, plus how it is attached. On the blade, the engraving, thumb stud, grind and choil. Designed with a liner lock, you can see the lock engagement and detent ball. There is a lot to take in.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from Elmax steel.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

NOTE: pay attention to the scale shown in the images and the near zero-grind; there is only a very small micro-bevel visible for the PXL’s factory edge.


What is it like to use?

My impression is that all of the Fällkniven folders I have handled have a similar ‘crisp’ feel to the finish. What I mean by this is that the edges of the liners, and lock-bar are on the verge of being sharp. Where another material or component is directly next to the liner, this provides a seamless transition and overall this personal observation doesn’t impact on usability at all. Gripping the knife to make cuts, you have the smooth rounded parts of the handle and bolster touching your hand. It’s more when you explore the knife (as if a worry stone) and your fingers find the inner edges of the liner are noticeable. It is most evident when unlocking the blade as where you press on the lock bar also has a crisp edge to it.

On first checking the knife in this review, there was some lock-stick. The crisp edge where you press on the lock bar to release it made this stand out more. Rubbing over the lock surface with a pencil sorted the initial lock-stick straight away and this has not come back.

Also on first looking over the PXL I had wondered if the narrow looking thumb stud might be hard on the thumb to operate – this was unfounded and it is well suited to the knife’s action.

Now, let’s talk pocket clips; so the PXL has a compact pocket clip and this is in the typically less popular tip-down orientation. On discussing this with Peter Hjortberger, the reasoning behind this is to provide a pocket clip which has minimal impact on the grip and handling of the knife. Like this it is also less disruptive to the overall design to not add additional clip positions. It is certainly true that no pocket clip makes the grip of a knife more comfortable.

For Fällkniven, a pocket clip is seen as advertising that you are carrying a knife, which is often not ideal in a public place. Because of this most folding models in the Fällkniven line up do not have a clip at all, although they are being added to three folding knife models, the PXL, the PXLx and the PCx.

Although described as a ‘large folder’ (and the XL in the model name), to me this is more of a medium size folder. It is a good fit to the hand, being neither too small to get a good grip, nor too large for the pocket. In my hands (taking XL size gloves) it is a very comfortable fit.


The simple combination of brushed stainless and polished micarta makes the PXL an elegant EDC companion. The compact pocket clip does provide a way to secure the knife to your pocket or to webbing or any other fixing point that suits. I would tend to carry with the clip holding it to an internal divider or pocket in a bag, rather than a trouser pocket. When using it in a trouser pocket the compact clip fits very well, neatly fitting over the edge seam of the pocket and holding securely.

Steel technology moves on, and I am slightly conflicted over the change to a single steel blade construction from Fällkniven. I did always like the visible San-mai line that a layered Fällkniven blade displayed, but now the (overall beneficial) switch to solid Elmax takes the San-mai line away. Of course the distinctive convex grind still makes the blade unmistakably Fällkniven in both looks and cutting ability.

That convex edge – seriously sharp and fine factory edge, and the grind makes it a very effective cutter.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Some slightly sharp edges on the liners and lock release.
Initial lock-stick – this has gone with use and pencil lead.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Elmax blade steel at HRC 62.
Convex near-zero-grind edge. (Very fine micro-bevel)
Compact pocket clip has minimal effect on handling.
Elegant design and finish.
Precision action.
Comfortable grip for hard work.
A knife built to last and hand down the generations.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: Spyderco Zoomer

In this Spyderco Zoomer review, we will take in all the details of this innovative fixed-blade knife. The Zoomer was created specifically for bushcraft and wilderness survival, and was designed by Tom Zoomer. It features a CPM20V steel blade with classic hamaguri (convex) grind that ensures a breathtakingly sharp yet resilient cutting edge. Every design detail of the blade, handle and sheath has been considered to maximum comfort and efficiency of use.

Video Overview

This video is a detailed look at the Spyderco Zoomer. In the video we cover the main design details, look very close-up at the knife, and then take Tactical Reviews standard detailed technical measurements.


What’s in the box?:
In fact there is no box – the Zoomer is presented in a zip-up pouch large enough to house the sheath and knife separately.


A good look round the Zoomer’s Sheath – Things to look out for here are:
A significant component of the full package; the large leather sheath has been designed to not compromise on functionality at all. A gravity-retained knife-holder, more than a typical sheath, with the belt loop made so it allows the sheath to swing to a vertical position at all times. Constructed of a total of six layers of leather building up the structure and including a front mounted pouch left empty for you to fill yourself.



A good look round the Zoomer – Things to look out for here are:
Even before you reveal the blade, the handle of the Zoomer immediately lets you know this is a special knife. Slipping off the blade cover and you can see the elegance of the full convex grind. Incorporated into the solid G-10 handles is an extended thumb support which is combined with a swept back plunge line. These features position the thumb directly behind the cutting edge near the handle for maximum pressure and control in this critical area of the blade.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.


The Factory edge up close:

Followers of Tactical Reviews will know my views on factory edges, but to recap:

Anyone using a knife will need to sharpen it. That first factory edge is just like the first tank of fuel that a new car comes with (or first charge of the battery).
A good factory edge is a ‘nice to have’ but not a ‘make or break’ for a good knife, as you will be putting your own edge onto it soon enough.
The factory edge does however indicate the care a knife maker has put into the final finish.
It is for this reason Tactical Reviews measures factory edge sharpness and specifications, and includes this information in the detailed technical testing.

As a further look at the factory edge, this section has been added to include some high magnification photos of the factory edges.

These images allow for a comparison of each side of the factory edge bevel. In this case we now have an explanation as to why the BESS measurements were not as good as the actually cutting ability. The factory edge is full of micro-serrations that make it cut very eagerly, but tend to not measure very well on the BESS scale.


What is it like to use?

An unexpected combination of supreme comfort and solidity seem to emanate from the Zoomer. Compared to most knives, the Zoomer’s sheath feels large and in danger of being unwieldy, but the size and drop-hanger style prove themselves to be a practical working tool.

Overall size of the Zoomer puts if right in that ideal all-rounder sizing. Large enough to handle bigger jobs and batoning (though be careful of the extended thumb support), and small enough to stay comfortable for very long periods of use.

Thanks to the convex grind, despite the factory edge sharpness measurements appearing unimpressive, the Zoomer cuts eagerly, and thanks to excellent ergonomics, effortlessly.

Oddly I frequently find myself thinking that the handle of the Zoomer is too comfortable and too smooth. Maybe it’s just the same way pyjamas are ‘too comfortable’.

The Zoomer really does handle like no other knife and actually has zero hot-spots on the grip, zero.


For quick access and easy storage, the sheath works very well, but despite this, I did find it slightly lacking in terms of security.
The weight of the sheath combined with the hanger design, do their best to keep the knife secure, but it is not completely reliable. Initially the sheath has some grip on the knife but with more use this loosened and you end up relying on gravity alone to keeping the knife in the sheath.
I was not happy to rely on this at all times and wanted to carry the knife more securely.
Fortunately the sheath has the front pouch with press-stud fastening. The simplest option would be to have a plain loop of paracord tied such that it went through the lanyard hole and was able to fit around the pouch flap holding the knife in the sheath when the pouch was closed. I found this solution made the loop of cord too long and the opening too large to be of use as a wrist strap.
Instead I decided to tie a lanyard that included a few snake knots and the larger diamond knot which could then be tucked inside the pouch and secured by closing the pouch flap. The tying and use of this knife retention idea is shown in the next gallery.

Instructions for tying these knots are on the Tactical Reviews Tying Lanyards Page.


In case you think ‘why did he use white paracord, that will get dirty very quickly?’ – this is why…it is glow in the dark.

Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Knife retention relies entirely on gravity.
Handle is very smooth.
Convex edges can be more challenging to maintain.
Large sheath.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Incredible levels of comfort.
Unique extended thumb support placing the thumb directly behind the cutting edge.
Full convex grind.
High ‘availability and accessibility’ afforded by the sheath’s drop-in and pick-up ‘knife pocket’.
Good sized pouch incorporated into the sheath.
Zero ‘hot spots’ allowing very long periods of working.
High performance CPM20V steel.

Gear Review: EDS II Screwdriver and EDC Wrench from BIGiDESIGN

BIGiDESIGN is producing so many awesome EDC tools, and in this review we are taking a detailed look at the BIGiDESIGN EDS II, the second, updated version of their unique Everyday Screwdriver, along with the BIGiDESIGN EDC Wrench a reimagining of an antique Swedish adjustable wrench.

Their original EDS, Everyday Screwdriver, was probably the first BIGiDESIGN product that I saw, and since then I bought their bolt action pen, a design that ingeniously adjusts to take most ballpoint refills on the market. Now I’ve been able to partner up the Bolt Action pen with the EDS II and EDC wrench making for an incredible EDC setup.

Video Overview

In this video we take a good look at a couple of lovely EDC gear designs from BIGiDESIGN. The EDS II, the second, updated version of their unique Everyday Screwdriver, along with the EDC Wrench, a small unique pocket friendly adjustable wrench.


What’s in the box; Part 1 the EDS II?:
For the three BIGiDESIGN products I have, the packaging follows the same layout. A slide out tray which has a compartment at one end that contains spares.


A good look round the EDS II – Things to look out for here are:
Overall layout of the EDS II is of an integral lock folding knife, but with a bit holder instead of a blade. A single thumb stud means this easier for a right-handed user. Explained in more detail in the video, there is a stop pin that both stops the bit holder arm in the right position when open, and also stops the spare bits sliding out of the front of the storage slot. The other end of the spare bit storage slot has a sprung ball to keep the bits in place. The integral lock action is easy to see as the bit holder is unfolded. Several magnets are used for keeping the spare bits in place and the main bit holder folded. In the EDS II an additional spare bit holder has been integrated into the lower section of bit holder arm. A total of four bits can be carried within the EDS II.


What’s in the box; Part 2 the EDC Wrench?:
Again, following the format of the other BIGiDESIGN products I have, the box has a slide out tray which includes a compartment at one end that contains spares.


A good look round the EDC Wrench – Things to look out for here are:
A reimagining of an old Swedish design, there is a sliding adjuster moved by a worm screw. BIGiDESIGN have added both a metric and imperial scale for setting the wrench ready to use. A low profile clip is fitted to the back and the EDC Wrench also includes a Ti bead on the lanyard. You can just see the slider retainer under the clip.


What it is like to use?

BIGiDESIGN have done something really special with the EDS, and now this updated EDS II, and given you not only a new experience of using and carrying a screwdriver, but one that is very practical as well.
It is not the smallest EDC bit holder available, nor does it include a ratchet, but instead it gives you a highly usable screwdriver with integrated bit storage for a total of four bits without needing anything else.
Having a swing-out bit holder extension arm, the EDS unfolds to a very practical conventional structure of handle, shank, and bit, so compared to many other small EDC screwdrivers it gives you a more usable tool.

That genius part of the design is mimicking an integral lock folding knife, having a thumb stud to swing the bit holder arm out of the folded position for one-handed operation. So satisfying to use!

However there is a little observation to note about how easy or difficult it is to open the EDS II. The arm’s retention in the folded position is due to a magnet in the body grabbing the bit that is in the bit holder. As you use the EDS II and swap bits around, you will find that a bigger bit, like the full size flat bit, is held by the magnet more firmly, so firmly it becomes very difficult to open using the thumb stud. Put a smaller bit into the holder and it becomes much easier to open again. So the bit you leave in the main bit holder arm changes the ease of opening the EDS II. I would have preferred that the arm retention was a detent (like a knife would use) or that the thumb stud had a bigger cut-out round it allowing more contact and an easier open.


Onto the partner tool here and the EDC Wrench, an infinitely more pocket friendly design than a standard adjustable wrench, there was one big flip for me, literally, in how I envisaged using it before actually getting my hands on one. That is the fact that with the adjustable slider being very much on one side of the tool, to use it and make contact with the nut, you have to flip it over so the ‘front’ of the tool is away from you (pocket clip towards you). Like this you can’t see the scale, and initially it just felt a bit odd, but is just how it works. Even with larger nuts, all except the very largest, you need to use it this way round.

Being a ring spanner, you do have to be able to pass the ring over the end of the job onto the nut, so can’t be used for certain jobs. If you hit those limits though, it is less likely an EDC type of job, so then you bring out the full size tools. Know the limits of your tools and don’t abuse them and you’ll get along just fine.


Talking of limits, and pushing them, the EDS II and EDC Wrench can nicely partner up for a bit more screw driving torque. There is just enough of the 1/4″ hexagonal bit showing to use the EDC Wrench to grip this and boost the turning force for stubborn screws. Not always possible, but if you have the space, this can save you having to go for bigger tools. In this case the EDC Wrench is used with the slider facing you as it needs to be this way round to grip that small section of the hex bit.

Both of these beautiful EDC tools are made from grade 5 titanium alloy and punch well above their weight, even more so together.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond that covered in the review.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

EDS II – Difficult to open with larger bits installed.
EDS II – Thumb stud a bit too recessed.
EDC Wrench – Ring spanner design slightly restrictive.
EDC Wrench – Need to use with the slider away from you.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

EDS II – One-Handed Operation.
EDS II – Integral Frame-Lock Mechanism.
EDS II – Deep carry Pocket Clip.
EDS II – Uses any 1/4″ hex bit.
EDS II – Integral storage for four bits.
EDS II – 100% metal construction.
EDC Wrench – Infinitely adjustable.
EDC Wrench – SAE 3/16 – 3/4 in.
EDC Wrench – Metric 5 – 19 mm.
EDC Wrench – Solid Titanium Construction.
EDC Wrench – Removable Pocket Clip.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.

Knife Review: MKM Hero

Join me in this review of the MKM Hero as we take in all the details of this superb new folding knife designed by Tommaso Rumici. Working with MKM (Maniago Knife Makers) Tommaso has focused on usability and versatility in a design that specifically delivers the ambidextrous features a real working knife needs.

Video Overview

This video includes a close look round the Hero, and then onto the measurements and specifications.


What’s in the box?:
The Hero arrives in what initially looks like a simple storage pouch, however, on the back are a couple of belt loops, meaning the pouch is actually a horizontal belt pouch as well. Within the pouch is a pocket that has a double-ended T6/T8 torx wrench and leaflet.


A good look round the Hero – Things to look out for here are:
The version of the Hero in this review has the marbled carbon fibre handle. The liners and integrated bolsters are milled from one-piece of titanium with the handle slabs set into them. Cut into the reversible titanium clip is MKM’s distinctive mountainscape logo. The clip is held in place by two torx screws, making it easy to reverse the clip.
Double-sided stepped thumb studs allow ambidextrous blade opening. Choice of the back-lock is another intentional ambidextrous design feature. Jimping for extra thumb grip spans the blade and lock bar.


The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.

The blade is made from M390 steel.


What is it like to use?
I had the good fortune to be introduced to the Hero by its designer Tommaso Rumici, and get a run down of the features directly from the horse’s mouth. To my amusement, with this demonstration coming near the end of IWA 2022, and hands being well sanitised, and dried to a crisp, I managed to crack my thumb open on the Hero’s thumb stud and bleed all over the blade without actually cutting myself on the edge.
As I have got to know the Hero, there is one aspect I’m not so keen about, and that is that the thumb stud is a little on the pointy side. You do need to be careful to press onto the side of the stud and avoid pushing straight onto it to swing out the blade.
A good back-lock makes for a supremely practical layout in an ambidextrous focused knife. Unlike liner or integral locks, which are handed, the back-lock is predictable, reliable and absolutely identical in operation regardless of the hand holding the knife.
Where a lot of the design intent shows through is in its handling, and we must talk about the Hero’s handle. In terms of width, the Hero is actually pretty slim, so is nicely low profile in a pocket, but the depth and generous swell/hook at the butt of the handle is where the huge flexibility of grip positions and fantastic grip stability comes from.
For really controlled work, you can choke right up on the handle and place a finger on the guard/bolster bringing you to the cutting edge. At the complete opposite extreme grip position, taking a hold when you might want to use a chopping motion, thanks to the grip swell, you can take a secure grip of the very end of the handle with your first two fingers without worry of losing your hold on the Hero even when striking down with it.
Then you can take the middle ground with a standard grip and rest your thumb on the jimping that spans the end of the lock bar and blade for control and cutting force. When using this grip position, you can alter the angle the blade is presented by changing the pressure of your little finger on the butt hook. Doing this makes the knife swivel about your first finger, opening out, or closing in the position of the blade relative to your hand and making the blade extremely agile in use.
Exactly as intended, the Hero is big enough for most EDC tasks, and most general purpose jobs, yet not too big to put you off carrying it.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Overly sharp thumb stud.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Ideal blade size for most EDC tasks.
Multi-grip positions.
Super secure grip.
Back-lock.
Fully ambidextrous.
One-piece liner and bolster.
M390 steel.
Reversible clip.
Pouch includes belt loops.

 
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Knife Review: Spyderco Stovepipe

Spyderco’s Stovepipe is full of drama and built to perform as strongly as it looks. The Stovepipe is based on one of David Rydbom’s famous custom knives, ‘Bill the Butcher’ from Kingdom Armory. A powerful cleaver-style blade made from CPM 20CV, with titanium handles and clip, as well as being packed full of milled details, this all really makes the Stovepipe stand out as something special. Join me in this review of the Spyderco Stovepipe to take in all of its details.

Video Overview

This video takes in all the details of the Spyderco Stovepipe, a folding knife inspired by custom knife maker David Rydbom’s “Bill the Butcher” design; the Stovepipe blends dramatic style with serious performance. In the video I cover the main design details, look very close-up at the knife, and then take Tactical Reviews standard detailed technical measurements.


What’s in the box?:
Or, in this case ‘What’s in the pouch?’ as the Stovepipe does not come in a box but instead in a nice quality padded storage/carry pouch. The knife is in a bubble wrap bag and comes with the knife information leaflet and a round sticker.


A good look round the Spyderco Stovepipe – Things to look out for here are:
Starting with the knife straight out of its wrapping and with protective oil making it look blotchy. Under the pocket clip a round plastic protector ensures when you get it the clip to handle contact point is completely unmarked.
A ring around the milled pivot bolt provides an over-travel stop for the integral frame lock bar. The more you look at the Stovepipe, the more details you find. As you step through this gallery you will see all the small milled in features and incredible attention to detail.


Explained by the Maker:
The reasons for certain design choices may not be clear when simply looking at an object, so this section is intended to give an insight into the thinking behind a design by speaking to the designer themselves.

This is the Spyderco description of the Stovepipe:

Inspired by custom knife maker David Rydbom’s “Bill the Butcher” design, the Stovepipe blends dramatic style with serious performance. Its stout cleaver-shaped blade is crafted from 4mm (.157-inch) thick CPM® 20CV stainless steel and has a deep hollow grind for superior edge geometry. The handle is constructed from two slabs of solid titanium joined by a titanium backspacer. Both scales are painstakingly machined to create beautifully crowned outer surfaces and the reverse-side scale forms the foundation of the knife’s Reeve Integral Lock (R.I.L.) mechanism. The oversized pivot pin is machined with artistic accents and serves double duty as an overtravel stop for the lock bar. To allow convenient carry, the Stovepipe includes a machined titanium clip configured for right-side, tip-up carry. The clip, scales, backspacer, and blade all feature a no-nonsense, industrial-style stonewashed finish.

The Blade and Handle – Detailed Measurements:
For full details of the tests and measurements carried out and an explanation of the results, see the page – Knife Technical Testing – How It’s Done.


What is it like to use?
I find the Stovepipe a slight contradiction in that it is certainly built to work hard; materials, construction and strength are beyond question, but all the beautifully made details give the knife a lot of corners that are not hard-use friendly on your hands. The relatively compact size, despite the cleaver blade, and milled details creating lots of hot-spots mean that though capable of it, the Stovepipe isn’t a knife I would choose for heavy or extended jobs.

It looks fantastic and is both striking looking and by no means ‘usual’. Absolutely overflowing with interesting features, and a knife you will love looking at every time you bring it out to use.

The in-the-hand photos here show the Stovepipe in my XL-glove size hand. For me the Stovepipe has just enough handle for a solid grip and the blade length works for power cuts. The straight edge and blade tip present the cutting edge nicely for the type of EDC cutting I typically do.

One of the joys of the knife world is that there are so many designs, and so many purposes for a knife. The Stovepipe is an expensive knife, but one that justifies its price through quality of manufacture, intricate, intriguing and complex milling. Striking looks, with its origins in a proven custom design, the Spyderco Stovepipe is an outstanding cleaver-style knife.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.

_______________________________________________
What doesn’t work so well for me
_______________________________________________

Too many ‘corners’ for comfortable extended use.
High price point.

_______________________________________________
Things I like
_______________________________________________

Superb quality and finish.
Packed with machined details.
CPM 20CV blade steel.
Super strong construction.
Very high quality storage case included.
Custom design in a production knife.
Striking stand-out looks.

 
Discussing the Review:
The ideal place to discuss this review is on the Tactical Reviews Facebook Page
Please visit there and start/join the conversation.